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Old 7th July 2008, 13:18   #16
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http://www.orkut.co.in/CommMsgs.aspx...2595&kw=tuning


this is a thread on orkut for the honda unicorn, he has written it well and it has always worked just right for me, so any uni owners looking for servicing at home can surely use this!
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Old 7th July 2008, 21:31   #17
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Thanks for that link rider60.

Here is something I found out on the Shell website - 'How-to' guides to change engine oil, brake fluid, etc.

Shell and Ducati - 'How to' guides
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Old 8th July 2008, 03:20   #18
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Originally Posted by hyper123 View Post
Thanks for that link rider60.

Here is something I found out on the Shell website - 'How-to' guides to change engine oil, brake fluid, etc.

Shell and Ducati - 'How to' guides
hey now i feel like you just read my mind, did you know that i use shell engine oil reading it in the uni thread or was this just coincidence?

well thanks for the link mate it was almost a year since i visited the shell site and the new updates are a great help!

well coming to the bike's servicing,

i do my oil changes and tuning myself.

the others i am helpless as i dont have the tools nor the knowledge to get the chain tightened or balance the rear wheel etc!

in time i want the most of the general service of my bike to be a DIY!;p
just like the oil and tuning!

hope we discuss all that here and help ourselves achieve that! i sincerely hate the H A S S except for 1 or 2 work shops here and there in the city, i am help less regarding the activa so i keep a track of a few but the uni try and do most of it at home or my local garage!

so kudos to a great start and the tread mate!cheers:
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Old 8th July 2008, 03:25   #19
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I AM PASTING THE MAIN EXPLANATION FROM THE LINKY HERE TO MAKE IT EASIER FOR OTHERS HERE ON.

For further discussion from the linky please visit it!

Service @ Home

I have been curiously browsing through many forums and threads for a detailed guide or a manual which equips me with the procedure and step-by-step guidance in order to service my Unicorn at home itself rather than taking it to the service station every 2 odd months.

I've been pretty un-satisfied with the servicing quality of almost all the Honda stations that I’ve visited over a period of one & half year since the purchase of my Unicorn.

It's, however, easy to blame the mechanics and people over there but I see the other side of it too (kill me for saying this ) but those guys have to service almost 100's of bikes daily ( rough figures ) and are bound to treat your bike as just another piece of burden which must be shed as quickly as possible so as to get free and go home as early as they possibly can. There's hardly any point cursing them for not paying special attention and care to your Bike (though they pretend to) when the law of nature itself says that every body in this universe wants to attain the state of minimum energy.

I know it becomes very hard to maintain and service the bike at your own place and many people might take me for a guy who wishes to do something which is better left to be done by those who are meant to do it (read mechanics ).

Kindly help me out all the guys out here and post in the relevant info regarding the same.

P.S. -: Keep in mind that your every input can be a NOVICE/Beginner’s guide to service his own bike and add to his knowledge of a bike from an early stage.



Let me start with carburetor tuning

About carburetor tuning, you have two screws on the carb. One is the Idle speed adjustment screw and another is the air screw.

Idle speed adjustment screw is used to adjust the engine's idling speed according to wish. Some bikes need more speed when the engine is new and lower speed will be enough after the proper running in.

AIR SCREW: is used to make the air and fuel mixture either rich or lean according to requirement.

1. For altering the air and fuel ratio, firsy of all, start the warmed up engine and adjust the idling screw to keep the engine reving at about Quarter of the engine's top rev.
2. Now close the air screw fully (Turn clockwise to the end).
3. Now the engine will idle a little slower than before closing the air screw.
4. Now gradually turn the air screw anti clockwise. Then engine speed will gradually raise as you do so. Dont mind that.
5.Turn the air screw until the engine speed stops raising.
6. Thats the point where the engine is in maximum lean condition (correct me if i am wrong about this.)
7. This point will usually occur from 1 3/4 turns or sometimes 2 full turns from the full closed position.
8. Ride the Bike and fell the engines pulling. If it is not enough, turn the airscrew clockwise,say about 1/4 turns. I guess even that is very high.
9. Now ride again and tru to tune it until you have got what you wanted.



DISCLAIMER: IF I REMEMBER CORRECTLY THE PERSON WHO HAS PUT THIS UP IS ALSO A MEMBER HERE, BUT NOT AN ACTIVE ONE. HIS USER NAME MOTOMAVERICK. HIS REAL NAME IS HIRAK. AND ALL THE CREDIT GOES TO HIM.

HERE IS A LINKY TO HIS CAM CHANGES! http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorb...tml#post610894

Last edited by rider60 : 8th July 2008 at 03:37.
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Old 8th July 2008, 17:53   #20
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Default Chain drive

I cleaned my spark plugs yesterday using sand paper. Tried changing the engine oil but I just couldn't un-screw the bolt, it was screwed tight!!

There was a small book that was issued along with Overdrive few years back named 'Chain reaction to sprocket science'. It has topics related to changing the sprockets to get acceleration or topspeed and also how to clean and maintain the bike's chain. Here are some points -

1. Use WD40 to clean the chain or any other chain cleaning agent available in the market today if WD40 works out to be expensive. Put the bike on the main stand and spray liberal amounts of cleaner on the chain. Let it soak for a few minutes. Keep a newspaper under the bike so as not to dirty the ground below.

2. Keep a rag that has been folded over several times and then oil the bottom run of the chain from the top, basically the first side that comes in contact with the sprocket. Refold the rag and repeat the procedure on the top of the chain and its sides. Rotate the rear wheel with your hands or you can have someone turn it for you, it'll be much easier.

Use 140 gear oil for non O-ring chains and 90 gear oil for O-ring chains.

One question: The article does mention anything about washing off the cleaner after letting it soak, before applying the oil. Isn't it necessary?
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Old 8th July 2008, 23:39   #21
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Quote:
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One question: The article does mention anything about washing off the cleaner after letting it soak, before applying the oil. Isn't it necessary?
usually most of these cleaners are washed off with generous amounts of water from a hose with reasonably good pressure and after drying the chain dry you can apply the grease or oil!
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Old 6th August 2008, 11:22   #22
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rider60

all the carb bikes have this AIR SCREW & Idle speed adjustment screw ?

On a friends Yam YBX found only 1 screw ? Could you explain more about this please.

thank you
Greg
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Old 6th August 2008, 11:49   #23
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rider60

all the carb bikes have this AIR SCREW & Idle speed adjustment screw ?

On a friends Yam YBX found only 1 screw ? Could you explain more about this please.

thank you
Greg
Yes, as far as I know there are two screws, one each for controlling airflow
(or fuel flow in some cases) and the other for adjusting idling speed, as shown in the pic below.
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Old 7th August 2008, 23:12   #24
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Quote:
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Yes, as far as I know there are two screws, one each for controlling airflow
(or fuel flow in some cases) and the other for adjusting idling speed, as shown in the pic below.

Hi,

I think thats for a CV carb, The older bikes dont come with a CV carb and I can see only 1 screw. Anyone got an idea how these things work? cheers:
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Old 7th October 2008, 11:44   #25
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Exclamation DIY : Service the bike yourself

Hi Bhpians,
I was wondering is there anyway we can service the bike in comforts oif our home , not only oilchange and lubing the chain but also adjusting tappets etc.
If any one knows how to service a Apache rtr or have a service manual ,Please help .As I dont have faith in the Svc guys and they seem to damage somthing or the other
Please Help!
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Old 7th October 2008, 17:37   #26
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Very true! I feel most of them do more damage than good! And worst of all, they create a set of new scratches evertime it goes for servicing! Drives me nuts... and I drive them nuts... after which I'v learnt to do most of the things myself. Saves lot of time and energy and in the process bike works much, much better!!!

I learnt most of the stuff thru books and manual. You could try the same! Unless some good samaritan here decides to make a nice DIY guide...

And by the way, your statement "...comforts of our home..." isnt quite apt. Its a dirty messy job. And back breaking too... unless you got facilities like ramp etc!
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Old 20th February 2009, 09:58   #27
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Which part of the spark plug do we have to look at (to inspect colour) , it will be very thankful if you could show it with the help of a diagram
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Old 20th February 2009, 12:52   #28
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you check the outer side of the insulator! actually what race mechanics read is inside, thats not visible they use special plug reading tools to do the same, but for a good enough rough estimation reading the outer side should be good enough!

Also beware that you must read the plug either after idling or (preferably) driving through high revs and pressing the engine kill button (along with the clutch of course) gives you the best estimation. let me try and find the link of all that info.
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Old 20th February 2009, 12:53   #29
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Hyper 123, if possible could you please post DIY oil change.. ? Can you do that? would be lot of help.
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Old 23rd February 2009, 10:23   #30
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Anyone knows how to adjust the rear gas shock absorbers(Pulsar) at home itself ?
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