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Old 3rd October 2008, 13:18   #31
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Oh then must be same. I was somehow under the impression that its at 1000kms
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Old 3rd October 2008, 13:29   #32
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Wow! thats an eye catching color, looks stunning, esp due to the cool photography, congrats and ride safe!
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Old 3rd October 2008, 13:32   #33
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Thanks for the compliment & wishes Buddy
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Old 3rd October 2008, 15:40   #34
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The running has to be done in a hard way atleast on teh RTRs. Thats what I've normally seen. The bore comes with a standard 20-25 microns clearance. For race application the clearance must be 50-60 microns. Only then the engine would be free revving.
To avoid running-in, I've even gone to an extent of getting a brand new bore horned to 50 microns and it makes a world of a difference. No running-in needed then. Only the rings will need to seal a bit and that'll be done in 40-50kms. It would be so much more free-revvving.
However, I wont suggest these methods to everybody here as there is a way to do these things. It could easily get wrong.
On my R15, I've run-in for only 150-200kms. I mean that was 7k.
Then it was straight redline!
The bike has completed 1400kms and is free revving and a lot more eager. next week, I'll strip it for some blue-printing.

The RTR has slightly higher tappet clearance as the engine is capable of rpms upto 12500. However dont get these all the time the valve springs could surely weaken.
Higher rpms will produce more heat and hence the RTR runs higher valve clearances at the tappets.
Note - An instant tip for RTR owners, use a 107/107.5 main jet and remove the inner filter in the airbox. You can surely see a good difference. It works best for those at sea level. Else, just set your needle on the 3rd position and use the stock jet. It will still make it better.

Joel
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Old 3rd October 2008, 16:02   #35
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Wow lot of it went bouncer

So let me ask in layman terms, I am exposing the bikes to higher revs in short bursts so far done til 84 kph or rough 6.5k-7k rpm & mostly around 4k -5k rpm after 200 kms will be taking it more frequently to 6k plus & around 7k revs So on & so forth every 100 kms. Is this fine, my objective is to get the best of both worlds i.e. performance & mileage and not just race application.

Btw when did you buy the R15? Congrats
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Old 3rd October 2008, 16:39   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technocrat View Post
my objective is to get the best of both worlds i.e. performance & mileage and not just race application.

Btw when did you buy the R15? Congrats
Race bike in the full form are a lot more efficient and powerful than their lame street going counterparts. My RTR gives me 4-5kmpl under hard riding than a standard RTR. I mean under the most punished conditions.
A better/good state of tune requires lesser throttle inputs and helps to avoid wasting fuel.

Got the R15 about 8-9 days ago. Thanks man!
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Old 3rd October 2008, 16:46   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fieroid View Post
Race bike in the full form are a lot more efficient and powerful than their lame street going counterparts. My RTR gives me 4-5kmpl under hard riding than a standard RTR. I mean under the most punished conditions.
A better/good state of tune requires lesser throttle inputs and helps to avoid wasting fuel.

Got the R15 about 8-9 days ago. Thanks man!
And not to mention increased engine efficiency!

Congrats on the R15! Do post some pics of the engine innards when you take it apart. Too curious to see the diasil cylinder and the 4 valve head.
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Old 3rd October 2008, 17:04   #38
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joel - what's your take on the rtr fi in comparison to the carbed version that you have. more importantly how well does the TVS FI handle performance mods?
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Old 3rd October 2008, 17:37   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fieroid View Post
Race bike in the full form are a lot more efficient and powerful than their lame street going counterparts. My RTR gives me 4-5kmpl under hard riding than a standard RTR. I mean under the most punished conditions.
A better/good state of tune requires lesser throttle inputs and helps to avoid wasting fuel.
So in short you mean I should start ripping

Or is it too late as its already 200 kms old ?
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Old 3rd October 2008, 17:44   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technocrat View Post
So in short you mean I should start ripping

Or is it too late as its already 200 kms old ?

200kms is nothing. Run it in a little decently untill 500 odd kms. Then you can start it.

@silvy - The RTR Fi and Carb RTR have a lot of difference in the way the power is delivered, The FI is more of a rpm demanding engine with the engine peaking after 5k, where as the carb has power low down too.
This character change is mainly due to the change in the fueling. There are many variables.
My carb RTR cant be compared to an RTR FI, so lets leave that. Its faster.
The FI can also be tuned to good levels and can be made much faster. The RTR has a potent engine, game for anything!

Last edited by fieroid : 3rd October 2008 at 17:48.
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Old 3rd October 2008, 17:50   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technocrat View Post
So in short you mean I should start ripping

Or is it too late as its already 200 kms old ?
200km is just perfect man it's not too late. I started opening up the bike after 100kms. But when you rip don't hold the revs for too long. Peak the revs for a while then drop it, again peak it after some time. Cycle the process. Once you cross 500 you can start holding the revs for more duration.
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Old 3rd October 2008, 17:53   #42
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Quote:
200kms is nothing. Run it in a little decently untill 500 odd kms. Then you can start it.
Cool thats what even I had in mind, runin 500 kms, get her serviced, start ripping

@Sankar: I did that on Sunday so far have touched 84 kph :P From what I am reading I seem to be following similar procedure that you guys are recommending :-)

Last edited by Technocrat : 3rd October 2008 at 17:55.
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Old 3rd October 2008, 18:00   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fieroid View Post
200kms is nothing. Run it in a little decently untill 500 odd kms. Then you can start it.

@silvy - The RTR Fi and Carb RTR have a lot of difference in the way the power is delivered, The FI is more of a rpm demanding engine with the engine peaking after 5k, where as the carb has power low down too.
This character change is mainly due to the change in the fueling. There are many variables.
My carb RTR cant be compared to an RTR FI, so lets leave that. Its faster.
The FI can also be tuned to good levels and can be made much faster. The RTR has a potent engine, game for anything!
so what kind of mods could release that untapped power in the FI? do you know of anyone who's already done it and how were the results?

PS: what mods are you running in your RTR?
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Old 3rd October 2008, 19:32   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silver_shadow View Post
so what kind of mods could release that untapped power in the FI? do you know of anyone who's already done it and how were the results?

PS: what mods are you running in your RTR?
There are no mods as such on my RTR as it was set-up for Group D Race specs. It runs different jetting, a blue printed engine and better state of tune. My RTR beats the pulp out of my R15 .

Nobody has done anything on the RTR FI coz, the engine in the RTR carb is the same. Whatever done here applies there too. AF can be sorted by tuning the ECU.

Been there and done all that on the Fiero/RTR engine man. Not much left unturned in tat engine.
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Old 7th October 2008, 11:22   #45
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Guys a peculiar issue with the bike, at some times on idling the revs start climbing & go as high 2-2.5 rpm.
This is not frequent but has happened 5-6 times so far, I tried adjusting the idling screw which does a temporary job.
The bike runs absolutely fine otherwise.

Please guide.
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