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Old 18th January 2010, 23:59   #976
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PDI is a joke. They just get the bike out from the yard, wash it and hand it to you. They would have already changed the chain guard so no worries there.

Check for any thing loose;
Indicators front/rear, rear number plate reflector

Loose front fork sleeve or if touching with the fork on visual inspection.

Rust on the side stand(welding joints), swing arm joints and the chassis joints from the bottom where it holds the engine and center stand.

Chain should not be too loose. Oil leak around the kick shaft just under the chain sprocket.

Full tool kit as shown in the manual and if half the kit is missing then mention it and write a email to customer service at RE otherwise you will never get the full kit. That is if you are bothered.

Leather document wallet with RE embossed on it. It's so classic, you will love it.

I'll suggest to get more then 3L of fuel, just in case if the fuel level sensor is kaput so that you get it changed there and then. Saves time to come again and get it changed. I have seen CL's with faulty sensor so you should not be surprised if yours is gone and you can find out only above 2.75L of fuel in tank.

Battery water level.

All electrical's should be working.

Watch out for over inflated tyre's

Look around carefully for any paint damage or repaired paint job on fuel tank.

Loose heat shield on the exhaust.

Rear excess brake play, any leak from the front brake system.

Loose speedometer cable and loose front brake pipe holder on the front mudguard.

See if you can trace the choke cable to FI system and if not then ask them. Inspect the choke cable holder on the intake/FI system for play.

Oh please ask the Technical guy from Chennai about the serious flaw in the intake system and let me know what he has to say about it.
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Old 19th January 2010, 10:31   #977
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Thanks man that looks very detailed. The bike will reach the showroom probably by today or latest tommorow morning. Hope the store guys do a good job on it. Have planned a few long rides ver the weekend

If I meet the technical guy from chennai, I will ask for sure
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Old 19th January 2010, 11:08   #978
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Check engine oil level. It was near MIN on my bike. Anyway after 500kms it is changed I think that's the reason they put less oil. And not sure whether it was mineral or synthetic.
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Old 20th January 2010, 10:51   #979
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By the way I heard that oil changes are now 6000kms ? is it true.
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Old 20th January 2010, 11:47   #980
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I'm not entirely sure, but I believe the RE guys use Motul 3100 15W50, which is marketed as a Technosynthèse® which I believe is their marketing term for a semi-synth. Surprisingly, the UK manual recommends a API -SL oil, while this is only API - SJ. While this shouldn't really make a difference, the point that really irks me is that they say your warrantly will be void if you use Motul 300v FL which is a 15W50 fully synth and is API - SL, all of which is recommended in the UK manual.

I believe the recommended change interval for the semi-synth is 3500 - 4000 km.
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Old 20th January 2010, 17:36   #981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indian21r View Post
By the way I heard that oil changes are now 6000kms ? is it true.
Excluding the first service, Yes it's True.
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Old 20th January 2010, 23:48   #982
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreaseMonk View Post
I'm not entirely sure, but I believe the RE guys use Motul 3100 15W50, which is marketed as a Technosynthèse® which I believe is their marketing term for a semi-synth. Surprisingly, the UK manual recommends a API -SL oil, while this is only API - SJ. While this shouldn't really make a difference, the point that really irks me is that they say your warrantly will be void if you use Motul 300v FL which is a 15W50 fully synth and is API - SL, all of which is recommended in the UK manual.

I believe the recommended change interval for the semi-synth is 3500 - 4000 km.
Use full synth if you want better engine life. The folks at the A.S.S. won't even know after 100 kms of running with full synth. Before that they can make out at the 300 will smell sweet, almost like bath gel as it is a tri-ester oil. So, don't take their "no warranty" threats seriously. A very senior and knowledgable Royal Enfield engineer who has spent considerable time at the Enfield factory has personally told me this. "If you can use synthetic, then nothing like it" This is the exact sentence he used. I don't want to quote his name on this public forum.

Cheers,

Jay
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Old 21st January 2010, 00:44   #983
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayPrashanth View Post
Use full synth if you want better engine life. The folks at the A.S.S. won't even know after 100 kms of running with full synth. Before that they can make out at the 300 will smell sweet, almost like bath gel as it is a tri-ester oil. So, don't take their "no warranty" threats seriously. A very senior and knowledgable Royal Enfield engineer who has spent considerable time at the Enfield factory has personally told me this. "If you can use synthetic, then nothing like it" This is the exact sentence he used. I don't want to quote his name on this public forum.

Cheers,

Jay
Now, that is what's called A.S.S. kicking

I do not know a lot about synthetics, but I would like to add that these should also be carefully chosen just like mineral oils & with a little caution. One of the reasons for me to believe this way is because of the results of an experiment conducted by Amsoil wherein one of their products was compared with some of the well known names in the industry. This was an old report though, but it reported some really bad figures for Motul 300V (the one with Tri-ester technology) in terms of oxidation stability (lowest) & certain other areas. This is backed by reports of some Pulsar & Bullet riders reporting a considerable drop in engine oil levels within short spans of time. There were areas though which were pretty impressive, but I feel that the above property is a very significant determinant of the oil quality specially in case of large capacity air cooled engines like those of the Royal Enfields.

After all, a synthetic is not oil, it's a chemical product. Correct me if wrong.

Happy thumping,
Prakhar

Last edited by blackfire_9 : 21st January 2010 at 00:47.
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Old 21st January 2010, 01:12   #984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackfire_9 View Post
Now, that is what's called A.S.S. kicking

I do not know a lot about synthetics, but I would like to add that these should also be carefully chosen just like mineral oils & with a little caution. One of the reasons for me to believe this way is because of the results of an experiment conducted by Amsoil wherein one of their products was compared with some of the well known names in the industry. This was an old report though, but it reported some really bad figures for Motul 300V (the one with Tri-ester technology) in terms of oxidation stability (lowest) & certain other areas. This is backed by reports of some Pulsar & Bullet riders reporting a considerable drop in engine oil levels within short spans of time. There were areas though which were pretty impressive, but I feel that the above property is a very significant determinant of the oil quality specially in case of large capacity air cooled engines like those of the Royal Enfields.

After all, a synthetic is not oil, it's a chemical product. Correct me if wrong.

Happy thumping,
Prakhar

Yeah, exactly, I have read that report too. But, Amsoil conducted the whole testing process and not an independent agency. So the veracity of the report is always under contention. the Motul vs Amsoil war has raged for quite some time now and so far most people(read motorcyclists) have contended that Motul 300V is as good as Amsoil. Here is another independent report. Oils Well That Ends Well, Part 2 - Sport Rider Magazine. Motul also scores over Amsoil in India simply because of it's availability. About the Pulsar dropping oil levels, that was due to the gaskets which couldn't seal well with Motul. About the Bullets, the CI engines drank Motul because of poor ring sealing in particular cases. It happened with one of my friend's Electra 4S. Both these cases are issues due to mechanical faults in the particular motorcycles. So, it is unfair to blame Motul, as this issue cropped up with all the synthetic oils used, Castrol ful synth included.

Cheers,

Jay

Last edited by JayPrashanth : 21st January 2010 at 01:17.
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Old 21st January 2010, 01:16   #985
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Shucks! I got mine changed recently and got the Motul 3100. Will stick with it for another 2000 kms, then ditch it for a synthetic.
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Old 21st January 2010, 01:33   #986
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So is it synthetic right at the first oil change at 500 km? Or should we run the engine in with semisynth\mineral?

Also, during the switch from semi to full synth, is an engine flush recommended, or just an extended drain period?

And finally, how do we sneak in synthetic without the A.S.S. knowing during the oil changes as a part of the free services? If we decline the oil change, they will say that we are not following the oil change interval and will void our warranty. If we give them the oil to fill, they will say its not company recommended oil and void our warranty?
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Old 21st January 2010, 01:48   #987
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Whatever knowledge I had told me to run it in with the semi synth, and to continue for the first 2k-3k kms on the semi.
While shifting from semi to synth, a flush is very advisable as far as cars are concerned. I am guessing it is the same with bikes too.
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Old 22nd January 2010, 15:37   #988
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Guys,
Can you please help me choose horns for my Bullet Classic 500?
I read somewhere that it doesn't support powerful horns because the ECU manage current to every electrical device. I had talk with the RE person and he also confirmed the same but he also said that one can fit dual tone horns, that should not exceed 12V and 2.5 Amp combining both. He also asked me to check some bosch horns.

If anyone of you changed the horns already can you pleas share the details? It will help everyone on this forum.

Thanks!!
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Old 22nd January 2010, 16:47   #989
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I finally got my classic 500 green yesterday. Will update pictures and details once I reach home.

Mumbai guys where do u get the bike serviced, I mean authorized service centres. I live in bandra and looking for a place which does the best service.

As of now I am having issue changing gears with toe, Heel feels better. The test drive bike was better. I guess it will take some time. And getting the bike in neutral was difficult ( Maybe because i am not much used to the 1 down 4 up).

Amazing pull man.

@Randhawa
Leather document wallet with RE embossed on it. Can u post a picture of this, I was told RE is providing no such thing. I was advised by RE Sales guy (from the company) that FI's perform well with more than 4 liters of petrol. no clue why.

If someone upload a copy of the manual or atleast the run in it would be great. RE guys said they will give all the documents when i get the bike registered.

Last edited by indian21r : 22nd January 2010 at 16:50.
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Old 22nd January 2010, 19:01   #990
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indian21r View Post
I finally got my classic 500 green yesterday. Will update pictures and details once I reach home.

Mumbai guys where do u get the bike serviced, I mean authorized service centres. I live in bandra and looking for a place which does the best service.
Congratulations Sir,

Looking forward to the pics and quick review as well.

With regards to your query, please refer to post #14 by Mumbiker on the link below :-

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorb...ic-mumbai.html

Happy Thumping!!!
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