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Old 30th October 2008, 10:52   #1
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Question Converting Apache RTR lights from AC to DC

I was wondering is there any 'easy' way of conversion of AC lighting on my bike [apache RTR] to DC as I have to start my bike every time if I even need to check time, fuel etc ?
Please help!
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Old 31st October 2008, 10:18   #2
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Isn't there a way to convert those AC Lights (plus light on central console) to DC, so that it works even when bike's engine is not running ?
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Old 31st October 2008, 12:02   #3
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Its possible, but you will require some rewiring which is really not worth it.
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Old 31st October 2008, 12:12   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaggu View Post
Its possible, but you will require some rewiring which is really not worth it.

Can you elaborate on:
1) The battery size required i.e. will the battery required will be of bigger size ?
2) Will the bulbs a) The tail lamp ( not stop, just the 5W filament ) and headlamp need repleacement ? In my Caliber, I had changed the bulb to 55/60W bulb of Maruti 800. No issues, but what in this case ?
3) Does the coil for charging the battery need any modification ?
4) Can we use the coil provided to give energy to bulbs for recharging the battery ( if the batter is bigger ) ? Do we need to change the voltage regulator ?

I just want to connect the headlamp of my Suzuki Zeus to straight DC with 60/65W H4 bulb.

Last edited by aaggoswami : 31st October 2008 at 12:13. Reason: Typing mistake.
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Old 31st October 2008, 12:14   #5
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All those lights work on DC : they don't work on AC. The wiring has been done such that they are connected only when the engine is running, so that they dont drain the battery by accident.
You could get them to work off the battery, but as Jaggu has mentioned above, the rewiring is not something I would try out.

Last edited by Blue Thunder : 31st October 2008 at 12:20.
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Old 31st October 2008, 12:18   #6
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Quote:
a) The tail lamp ( not stop, just the 5W filament )
RTR has LED tail lamps, besides the stop lamp is already DC. Its the instrument panel & headlight lamps that turn on, on turning engine on.

Normally your coils should be powerful enough to charge the battery which discharges faster on putting a higher wattage bulb. This is easier said than done, for Pulsars using avengers coil works but for older bikes there may be complications as there is limit to coil winding & also the the existing cables should be able to support the extra current load.
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Old 31st October 2008, 12:25   #7
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1) 7.5 amp would be better especially if the bulb is 55/60

2) If a smaller capacity battery (5amp) stick to 35/35 for headlamps and rest same as OE bulbs

3) Yes you have to upgrade the rectifier and ideally charging coils to take the additional load

4) This is a tricky one again, but yes doable with some jugads

Rewind / Upgrade the charging coils, use a higher capacity rectifier to charge the battery. Rewire the the light circuit to feed off the battery. Sounds straight forward but trust me you need to find a competent electrician before you set forth or will land up in a mess.
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Old 31st October 2008, 12:26   #8
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Our good old Yezdis used to run everything on a 6 volt battery except the headlights.
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Old 31st October 2008, 12:30   #9
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Old Yam and Suzuki's also used to run off 6 volts I had modded my Yam 12 volt system to 65/50 bulb running off stock lighting coils, with a trick boost switch and LML vespa electric start rectifier and all. Nowadays things should be easier for finding parts to upgrade with the fleet of new bikes with better electricals.
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Old 31st October 2008, 12:58   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technocrat View Post

1a) Normally your coils should be powerful enough to charge the battery which discharges faster on putting a higher wattage bulb. This is easier said than done, for Pulsars using avengers coil works but for older bikes there may be complications as there is limit to coil winding & also the the existing cables should be able to support the extra current load.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaggu View Post

1b) 7.5 amp would be better especially if the bulb is 55/60

1c) If a smaller capacity battery (5amp) stick to 35/35 for headlamps and rest same as OE bulbs

3) Yes you have to upgrade the rectifier and ideally charging coils to take the additional load

4) This is a tricky one again, but yes doable with some jugads

Rewind / Upgrade the charging coils, use a higher capacity rectifier to charge the battery. Rewire the the light circuit to feed off the battery. Sounds straight forward but trust me you need to find a competent electrician before you set forth or will land up in a mess.
1a,b,c) My Suzuki bike is not with electrical start. Ther batter for this version is Battery is 12V 9.0kC (2.5 Ah)/10HR. So I cannot convert to DC.
Now what if I straight away fit in 55/60 or 60/65W halogen bulb ? Can the exisiting coils and other electrical components like wiring, connector , etc take the load ? I was warned that the bulb connector/holder ( cant remember the exact term ) will melt if I fit in t55-65W bulb. I was given similar warning for Caliber, but Caliber ate it with ease. I am not sure about my Zeus. I tried searching but just came to know that GT125 dates back to 1974. No information is available on electricals.

3) Any specifications ? I will try to get it.

4) That is managable by me.

I am afraid about the mess, but then I dont want to end up in a crash because of very poor lights and my eyes are not good.


I tried contacting the dealer, but they say " Halogen bulb ", " Halogen bulb " and nothing else.
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Old 31st October 2008, 13:16   #11
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Yes a good halogen bulb is an easy and effective upgrade, the trick is to find the right brand which gives good beam spread for your bike reflector. Another alternative is to fit a better reflector on to the bike and retain 35w bulb, trust me most often this will give you very good results.

1) Yes wiring, switch gear and bulb holder needs upgrade/alternative or can burn out under prolonged usage. To retain the switch connect the bulb through relays so that load is taken off the switch, this will be the first part to fail otherwise. 2.5 amp will not suffice and you will defenitely require 7.5 amp, so mods to accomodate the bigger battery also.

2) rectifiers from electric start bikes and scooters would be of higher ratings. Coils staright swap might be difficult and is better to go with winding with higher rating.

I still recommend upgrade of halogen bulb and reflectors first to any other mods. Will be cheaper effective and trouble free.
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Old 31st October 2008, 13:29   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaggu View Post

1)I still recommend upgrade of halogen bulb and reflectors first to any other mods. Will be cheaper effective and trouble free.
Yes a good halogen bulb is an easy and effective upgrade, the trick is to find the right brand which gives good beam spread for your bike reflector. Another alternative is to fit a better reflector on to the bike and retain 35w bulb, trust me most often this will give you very good results.

2) Yes wiring, switch gear and bulb holder needs upgrade/alternative or can burn out under prolonged usage. To retain the switch connect the bulb through relays so that load is taken off the switch, this will be the first part to fail otherwise. 2.5 amp will not suffice and you will defenitely require 7.5 amp, so mods to accomodate the bigger battery also.

3) rectifiers from electric start bikes and scooters would be of higher ratings. Coils staright swap might be difficult and is better to go with winding with higher rating.
Sir, thank you for quick replies.

1) Suzuki Zeus already has Halonix HS1 35/35W halogen bulb. What I meant was that the dealer kept on saying that the bulb is halogen so I am not suppossed to complain. But I am not satisfied. I thought the alternative was to fit mirror on the refletor in same exact shape and size, but it becomes even difficult job and the weight of the headlight assembly will increase, so avoided it.
I am planning to just put in a new bulb 55/60W. The base mostly in P43t in my case. I dont know where to get better holders.
But do I need to rewire everything. I have lost confidence on this bike's quality ( one fork of the two forks in main stand was bend, dont know how, never has it happened in our four Bajaj vehicles we had/ahve ), thats why so many questions.

EDIT : The beam spread is excellent, but I want much higher intensity.

2) I will now not be putting in a new battery becasue I dont want to do mods to fit in a bigger battery.

3) Is this required just if I upgrade to 55/60W Halogen ?

Last edited by aaggoswami : 31st October 2008 at 13:31.
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Old 31st October 2008, 13:40   #13
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2.5 amp battery will not hold 55/60 bulb for more than 15 mts even while running, so you need a bigger battery if you want to run off battery.

Other alternate option is rewind the lighting coil to support the 55/60 bulb, only rewiring with a relay is required after this. Holder is another area you will have to do some research since am not in touch with 2 wheels for last couple of years.
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Old 31st October 2008, 21:57   #14
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Its not just the battery, the current from the alternator should be sufficient to take the load. For Eg: the stator coil capacity in karizma is 180W ~ 12-13.5V/15A. Hence it can run a 35/35W DC headlight, 5+5W parking lights, a DC ignition (CDI), tail light, brake lights, also the current/voltage loss due to the transmission and heat. 20W brake light, 5 W tail light, 21W*4 indicators.

35+10+20+5+42= 112W + power consumption by the CDI, and also current/voltage losses at the rectifier. the 180W alternator will have much higher input power than the load.

Hope this helps to calculate what is the capacity required to convert an RTR from AC to DC system. You would require an alternator with higher capacities. If you get the coils rewound, there will changes in the ignition timing
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Old 31st October 2008, 22:55   #15
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Isn't the ECU fead different to the charging and lighting circuit? And hence shouldnt affect the timing?
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