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Old 13th October 2009, 12:40   #31
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Originally Posted by Sankar View Post
What is an Exide Backer battery?? I tried the exide website but couldn't find anything listed as an Exide Backer in the two wheeler section. Btw Exide website sucks.

Tick tick sound can be due to a faulty relay. So check that out.

If the relay is okay swap the battery with a regular 12v 14Ah motorcycle battery and see if it starts.

The one that i've seen come OE in the ES Electra is a violet/purple coloured 12v 14AH Exide battery.

You could've gone for a regular 12V-14Ah two-wheeler battery from any of the good manufacturers.
Yes, mine is violet/purplecolor Backer Battery-12V-14amp, I think relay is working fine, as when it does tick-tick... it is working (thats what the service guy told me). can you tell me what is cranking battery?
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Old 13th October 2009, 22:37   #32
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just to cross check the battery, the exide shop placed a 26amp battery and then we tried to self start the bike, but same just Tick- Tick sound coming from the side box. Means the battery is working fine. Any one can Help me out ?
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Old 13th October 2009, 23:33   #33
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Default Troubleshooting electric start

Quote:
Originally Posted by tarunmadhok View Post
the exide shop placed a 26amp battery and then we tried to self start the bike
You may even put a 80AH and it will not work, if the wires used to connect are thin and can't carry sufficient current. Assuming a 300w ES motor, the wire must be capable of carrying 25amp.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tarunmadhok View Post
Tick- Tick sound coming from the side box. Means the battery is working fine. Any one can Help me out ?
For ES to work, following two things must be satisfied:

1. Sufficient current (electric power). Battery may light indicators, horns etc yet may not have sufficient juice to turn the ES motor.

2. Healthy electric motor (sprag clutch, coil, magnet etc).

#1 can go wrong on one or more of the following: weak battery, corroded terminals, broken wire, corrosion at the cable joints (especially ground wire connection to chassis) etc.

Try the following exercise:

1.Connect a new battery or known good battery which shows voltage ~12.6v
2. Warm up the bike- by kick start and do a 10 minute run in the neighborhood. This will circulate oil all over and lessen "stickiness" inertia.
3. Now switch off the engine and ensure engine kill switch (red button) is back on position.
4. Press the clutch lever fully and pull the de-comp lever to ease compression force.
5. Now press button start
6. Does the ES motor Spin? While ES motor is still spinning, release the de-comp. The engine should fire.

If the steps above fire the engine via ES motor then your battery and/or electric circuit is kaput. There is a certain voltage drop in ES circuit causing motor to starve of high amp. If it does not fire then your ES motor assembly (cause #2) is suspect.

-BJ

Last edited by bj96 : 13th October 2009 at 23:40. Reason: typo
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Old 14th October 2009, 09:58   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tarunmadhok View Post
Yes, mine is violet/purplecolor Backer Battery-12V-14amp, I think relay is working fine, as when it does tick-tick... it is working (thats what the service guy told me). can you tell me what is cranking battery?
Yes the relay must be working fine as he said. I didn't know the purple batteries were called the Backer ones.

I have come across two similar issues with an Avenger and a Pulsar but not with RE. In both cases the relay was working with that tick tick sound but ES motor wasn't working. The problem in those cases were the ES motor brushes were worn out. Brushes were replaced and ES worked.

So you might want to get the ES motor checked.
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Old 14th October 2009, 10:37   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sankar View Post
Yes the relay must be working fine as he said. I didn't know the purple batteries were called the Backer ones.

I have come across two similar issues with an Avenger and a Pulsar but not with RE. In both cases the relay was working with that tick tick sound but ES motor wasn't working. The problem in those cases were the ES motor brushes were worn out. Brushes were replaced and ES worked.

So you might want to get the ES motor checked.
Any idea whats the price of the brushes, if they were to be replaced for Electra ES?
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Old 14th October 2009, 13:28   #36
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Originally Posted by tarunmadhok View Post
Any idea whats the price of the brushes, if they were to be replaced for Electra ES?
Sorry, but I don't remember exactly but it was not expensive (not too expensive to remember ). In those two cases the clutch case had to be opened to get the ES motor out so labour cost more than the brushes.

Get the ES motor checked up at the A.S.S.
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Old 29th December 2009, 00:24   #37
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Hi ,this is My first Post ,After reading this discussion i had the strong Urge of Replying the Post ,
I have an RE T-Bird-Feb2008 , it had the Stock 12V 14AH, which started throwing acid ,
Replaced it with a SMF battery used in UPS , and now its working Excellent , following are the specifications of the battery :
MAKE : Rocket
Ratings: 12V 18 AH

Also replaced the stock battery of Electra with this same battery.
Both Bikes are running without any issue , Had to fabricate the Battery tray Though.
will post the photos tomorrow
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Old 29th December 2009, 12:46   #38
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I think you may need some extra fuses. Using batteries with higher ratings than prescribed is kinda risky. Esp as your bike starts aging. We make sure the mechanicals are in shape but you will be hard pressed to find a good mech who knows electricals if your bike goes kaput. And CDI's are expensive!
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Old 29th December 2009, 20:30   #39
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As mentioned in my previous post , below are the pictures attached,


@Nilesh5417 : I did not insert any extra fuses , the wiring for both the bikes i.e. Electra and My TBird is the orignal(stock) , changed nothing in the wiring , except the Battery Tray was Refabricated for the Electra , for my TBird I had to remove the Stock Battery Tray , the pannel itself holds the battery Very Tight ,
Both Bikes are running Excellent , Also both have the Roots Vibrosonic Horns , and they are running Awesome with this new battery.


I personally think Any extra fuses are not required , coz the capacity of battery is changed from 12V-14AH(Stock) to 12V-18AH.

The pictures were taken from my Cellphone , and the third is of the battery


TC
Attached Thumbnails
Battery for Bullet Electra with self start-tbird.jpg  

Battery for Bullet Electra with self start-electra.jpg  

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Old 29th December 2009, 23:17   #40
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Default Battery spills

The stock battery on my LB500 works fine except that it is messy. The area around the battery is a royal mess, the paint and finish have been eaten by the acid. This battery doesnt have a drain pipe which is surprising. I have the battery in a plastic shopping bag to catch spill. What is the solution for this? Is any other battery with the same 14AH rating available to avoid this problem?

Is the Rocket battery automotive grade? Can it handle the bumps and the abuse over a couple of years?
Attached Thumbnails
Battery for Bullet Electra with self start-img_9358.jpg  

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Old 30th December 2009, 01:51   #41
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@Beast_of_Burden : Even faced the same issue , thats why i switched to this battery , no modifications done to the orignal wiring , had to refabricate the Bracket for the Electra though
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Old 30th December 2009, 10:46   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandeep1025 View Post
.. SMF battery used in UPS , and now its working Excellent, following are the specifications of the battery : MAKE : Rocket Ratings: 12V 18 AH ..
Was 18Ah the nearest spec available at ~30% higher rated than stock; how much did it cost?
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Old 31st December 2009, 01:10   #43
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@Rennjit I Could spot only the 18AH , not sure of other ratings though(15AH , 16AH and 17AH) coz this was readily available , and the best part , the height of the battery was same as the stock ,but it was thin and more in length than the Stock 14AH one.
It would cost Rs.1900 approx in Pune , should be easily available with all UPS Battery Dealers
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Old 29th January 2010, 02:09   #44
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HI Guys,Posting after a long time , Just Noticed that the New Battery of 18Ah connected to my TBird needs no Change in Stock Wiring , Have made this observation from the following Observation :
My Bull was Lying IDLE after i met with a brisk Accident on 3'rd JAN resulting in Ligament Damage in Right Knee, but still i wanted to rev the bike so tried starting the Bike by Electric start , this resulted Draining of the Battery , I have the Vibrosonic Horns from "Roots" which don't work on a weak battery ,
I again revved My Bull , it did not for the first attempt , i tried till the battery was Fully drained Out- No Result , Tried the Kick-start with the Left Foot with De-comp and then with Electric Start with De-comp Pressed , and then I released the De-comp Lever , the Engine started "I was Delighted' , Kept the Bike Revving for 15-20 Mins on Idle 'also gave choke for some short duration and pulled the accelerator' .
After some time I pushed the Horn Switch and to my delight it buzzed with the Usual Sound (Same sound when the battery has Adequate charge in it).
Switched OFF the engine and then started the bike with Electric Start , it started with the first GO
Then switched it off and pressed the Horn switch - It sounded the usual Way (Switching OFF the Engine ensured the horn does not pull current from the Alternator )

Result Observed from above Experience : The bike Supports and recharges a 12V 18AH battery without any modifications in the Stock Wiring
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Old 22nd October 2010, 15:01   #45
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Default Need a quick advice

Sorry for bumping an old thread but.

My STD bullet battery died yesterday. RIP!

I had the exide bikers (I think the standard one used for bullets and kinetic hondas ). It had become weak lately but I could not get time to check the water levels. Yesterday, I forgot to turn off the ignition and in 5 minutes, the battery died. Pushed the bike to a mechanic and jump started it , he told the battery need to be replaced. Ironically, I had bought the battery last year June, and it died just a month after the 15 month warranty.

Now I need to buy a new battery. Should I go for the same one again? I talked to one mechanic, he suggested Amaron, another mechanic says never ever go for Amaron.

I have roots double horns with relay in my bike and I've noticed many a times that the exide battery I had is a tad weak to drive the horn (even with the relay) and the headlight at the same time. I also have a plan to upgrade the headlight bulb, the OEM one is useless at night. So should I go for a more powerful battery? I have the original battery cover for enfield. Will a higher rating battery fit inside it or should I change the cover too?

Please pour in the suggestions soon, I need to buy one today or tomorrow.
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