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Old 26th March 2015, 22:29   #1606
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

So, I have replaced the stock mirrors on my GT with bar ends. Am looking for blanking plugs/nuts for the bolts that the stock mirrors go into. Where can I get the plugs as shown here:



The image is from Hitchcocks Motorcycles UK, shipping to India would cost more than the price of the plugs
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Old 27th March 2015, 01:48   #1607
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

There are a number of black plastic or rubber hole plugs that are used on automobiles, motorcycles and other places which could serve to plug the holes.

Many of these are manufactured in India so there may be a store that deals in selling items like this available to you.
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Old 27th March 2015, 09:52   #1608
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Originally Posted by sumithb View Post
The image is from Hitchcocks Motorcycles UK, shipping to India would cost more than the price of the plugs
You should be able to get lot of stuff to cover those openings you have.

Walk into any two wheeler shop and ask for the TVS Scooty Stephney Bracket Rubber plugs. They are in the shape of caps and they are a good snug fit on them.

Should not cost you more than 20Rs.
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Old 30th March 2015, 11:34   #1609
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Hi All,

Can some one please suggest me the correct cold and regular start procedure for CL350,

1.While taking the delivery the dealer told me to use only kick start with choke and not use electric start when the engine is cold and follow the same without choke during regular start.
2.After first service the service manager told me not to use kick start and use only electric start as it would damage the sprag clutch and use kick start only if the battery is down and always stick to electric start only.
3.Manual does not say anything about cold start.
4.A friend of mine who owns a CL350 told me that a RE mechanic suggested him a different method. For clod start, turn off the ignition, press and hold the clutch lever, kick 2-3 times so that the clutch loosens, release the clutch and then turn on the ignition, use electric start and idle the vehicle for 2 mins before moving the bike. And for regular start only use the electric starter and not kick start. As per the mechanic following this procedure will not damage the sprag clutch and using kick start during cold start or normal start will damage the sprag clutch.

Now I am confused on which method to follow, please suggest guys.

Regards,
Vijay
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Old 30th March 2015, 13:27   #1610
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Hi Vijay_K,

I own a new TBTS 500. I presume your is a carb unit. I agree to your point of not using the electric start always on a cold morning as the heavy torque can affect components in the long run. But for a 350 it should be ok as it' is lighter.

Anyway this is what i follow:
1. With ignition on, i give a series of soft kicks till i feel resistance to my kick movement. This normally corresponds to a 8o clock position, where the kicker will almost be at the 8o clock position.
2. At this point, i give a full kick and bring the bike to life.

Please repeat these points till you get it correct. Once the engine is hot, i use ES. I don't move the bike till auto decompression is over.

Even if your battery is low, a 350 will still start, but a 500 won't as it needs 14V to crank the starter or even starting via kick. My mechanic told me this when i had a low battery.

Hope this helps.
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Old 31st March 2015, 00:42   #1611
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

For what it's worth, I don't use quite the same method when kick starting my 500.

I push the kick starter down until I feel the start of the compression stroke. Then, I slowly depress the lever, raising the piston thru the compression stroke to top dead center (when the compression suddenly decreases).

At this point I reset the kick starter lever to the top and then give a hard, full kick all the way to the bottom of the stroke.

Using this method is much easier on the starter lever and ratchet pawl because the kick lever is not working alone to over come the compression.

Rather, starting the full kick at the end of the compression stroke allows the crankshaft to start rotating rapidly before the next compression stroke arrives.
The built up energy in the crankshafts momentum, added to the force of the kick starter will easily compress the air/fuel charge and eliminate the possibility of the crankshaft kicking backwards. This will greatly reduce the possibility of damaging the sprag clutch.
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Old 1st April 2015, 23:02   #1612
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I used to face issues with kick start while starting in the morning. Local enfield mechanic adjusted the rpm screw. After this generally in 1-2 kicks bike used to start fine. Now when I ride to office and then in the evening while coming back it again struggles to start with both kick/elec start. The usual 'kat kat kat' sound and it dies. What I don't understand is how it starts properly in the morning and struggles in the evening.

I was told that kat kat sound issue goes after first 2-3 services.
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Old 1st April 2015, 23:21   #1613
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dodge_Viper View Post
I used to face issues with kick start while starting in the morning. Local enfield mechanic adjusted the rpm screw. After this generally in 1-2 kicks bike used to start fine. Now when I ride to office and then in the evening while coming back it again struggles to start with both kick/elec start. The usual 'kat kat kat' sound and it dies. What I don't understand is how it starts properly in the morning and struggles in the evening.

I was told that kat kat sound issue goes after first 2-3 services.
Idle rpm setting has no effect on ease of starting. You can just hold the throttle slightly off idle and it should fire up. I thnk your mechanic is treating the symptoms and not the root cause.

A well tuned bullet with a charged battery should ideally start in the first kick with the choke on even in the coldest of winters.

I have a feeling your carb float level is off. Its set a bit too high for the carb to get flooded when you are parked. That explains why its struggling start after a few hours break. Do you switch off the fuel tap when parked ? Also try to park on the main stand. My bull used used to leak from the carb while on the side stand.

Suggest you open up the carb, clean and reset the float assembly. And while you are at it, check the needle position. Standard position is the middle notch.
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Old 2nd April 2015, 00:25   #1614
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rsen View Post
Idle rpm setting has no effect on ease of starting. You can just hold the throttle slightly off idle and it should fire up. I thnk your mechanic is treating the symptoms and not the root cause.

A well tuned bullet with a charged battery should ideally start in the first kick with the choke on even in the coldest of winters.

I have a feeling your carb float level is off. Its set a bit too high for the carb to get flooded when you are parked. That explains why its struggling start after a few hours break. Do you switch off the fuel tap when parked ? Also try to park on the main stand. My bull used used to leak from the carb while on the side stand.

Suggest you open up the carb, clean and reset the float assembly. And while you are at it, check the needle position. Standard position is the middle notch.
My Classic 350 is 3.5 months old with 1400kms on odo. So does this float level go off so early? And yes I do park it on main stand and I don't switch off the fuel supply.
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Old 2nd April 2015, 01:18   #1615
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dodge_Viper View Post
My Classic 350 is 3.5 months old with 1400kms on odo. So does this float level go off so early? And yes I do park it on main stand and I don't switch off the fuel supply.
A mis-adjusted float is not uncommon even on new bikes. The float essentially pivots on a very thin strip of brass which can be bent very easily. All one needs to do is open up the float chamber and just bend the brass strips so that the floats sit at the right level. Any half decent mechanic should be able to do this.
Why don't you run a small test : As you reach office, switch of the fuel tap but keep the engine running till it dies due to lack of fuel. Keep the tap switched off. While coming back, just switch on fuel tap and start. If my hypothesis is correct then the bike should start easily. Let me know of the results.
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Old 2nd April 2015, 12:24   #1616
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I have completed 14 months of ownership with my TBTS 350 with 6500 kms on the odo. The bull needs a service now desperately after my last long ride from Bangalore to Coimbatore and back.

Issues which needs attention:

1. Petrol smell near the engine area when the engine is switched off during the wait time in the traffic. I tried examining for the petrol leakage from the fuel outlet tube but failed to notice any leakage. But still the smell continues..

2. The chain needs lubrication to solve the chain beating sound.

3. An oil change and oil filter change on the cards. RE manual recommends RE engine oil 15W50 API SL JASO MA. I am keen on using the Semi-Synthetic (S.S) oil this time. Which is the best S.S oil that is suggested?

4. I am planning for shock absorbers adjustment to make the ride more comfortable as explained by Arizona Jim in one of the posts.

5. The mileage reduced drastically during my last long ride. I hardly got 28 kmpl. I was cruising at around 90-100 Kmph. May be after the service, the mileage should improve!!

I am pretty sure that the RE A.S.S guys will not attend all the above issues perfectly. So I am planning to get things done in my presence at a friendly Bullet Mechanic's garage in Bangalore. Can someone suggest a mechanic in and around South Bangalore.

Thanks in advance..

Last edited by rki2007 : 2nd April 2015 at 12:31. Reason: spelling mistakes
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Old 2nd April 2015, 13:14   #1617
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rki2007 View Post
Issues which needs attention:

1. Petrol smell near the engine area when the engine is switched off during the wait time in the traffic. I tried examining for the petrol leakage from the fuel outlet tube but failed to notice any leakage. But still the smell continues..

2. The chain needs lubrication to solve the chain beating sound.

3. An oil change and oil filter change on the cards. RE manual recommends RE engine oil 15W50 API SL JASO MA. I am keen on using the Semi-Synthetic (S.S) oil this time. Which is the best S.S oil that is suggested?

4. I am planning for shock absorbers adjustment to make the ride more comfortable as explained by Arizona Jim in one of the posts.

5. The mileage reduced drastically during my last long ride. I hardly got 28 kmpl. I was cruising at around 90-100 Kmph. May be after the service, the mileage should improve!!

I am pretty sure that the RE A.S.S guys will not attend all the above issues perfectly. So I am planning to get things done in my presence at a friendly Bullet Mechanic's garage in Bangalore. Can someone suggest a mechanic in and around South Bangalore.

Thanks in advance..
1. It is very difficult to gauge petrol leakage on a hot engine. Leaking fuel on a hot engine will evaporate instantly for you to notice - not to mention its a fire hazard. However, sometime it leaves dark stain marks from the place it leaks. Check for those.
Typical areas of leakage would be the fuel tap or the pilot jet adjustment screw. Check the carb inlet pipe for splits around the edges.
There is one more thing. Do you ride with more that 7-8 litres of fuel ? Sometimes the fuel tank cap leaks and is aggravated by the sloshing fuel inside.
Apart from leakage also check if the carb has been set properly - a flooding carb will give off petrol smell and reduce mileage.

2. Apply white grease with a clean rag. Wipe off excess. Also check the chain tension and the individual links for smooth flexing. Keep an eye out on the sprocket teeth. A well adjusted chain should not beat around even if it is not lubricated.

3. I have been using Shell Helix (red plastic can) all throughout without any issues. Costs roughly Rs. 200 / litle

4. For the 350, the most economical cruising range would be 70-80. Anything above that will bring about a drop in mileage. Consider this, cruising at 90-100 means you are close to the engines max operating envelop. It is beyond its most efficient operating range.

5. Can't comment about South Bangalore, but in Indiranagar, there is Noor near 16th Main 100 ft road. There is a separate thread on Royal enfield mechanics in Bangalore. Suggest to refer that.
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Old 2nd April 2015, 16:39   #1618
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I have a 2014 classic 350 with slightly more than 10k km in the odometer. I don't ride my bike hard and I am sure I take very good care of her. My concerns are that every time I shift from to the 2nd gear from the first, it produces a painfully loud THUD!!! Is this something that's common with every other Enfields os should I be worried? I ofter press down the clutch, wait for 2 seconds so that the engine speed becomes really slow, and then shift to the 2nd gear so that the same does not happen. Its not like i'm making it do something its not supposed to be doing. I'm only shifting it to the 2nd gear. I don't rev it too hard either. I always keep the revs to moderate unless absolutely required. The engine oil and stuffs are new and i only recently got it serviced. The guy at the service center told me that its something only time can solve, the more you ride the better it gets he says. So, any thoughts?

Last edited by msrsooraj : 2nd April 2015 at 16:40.
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Old 2nd April 2015, 17:16   #1619
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rki2007 View Post
I have completed 14 months of ownership with my TBTS 350 with 6500 kms on the odo. The bull needs a service now desperately after my last long ride from Bangalore to Coimbatore and back.

Issues which needs attention:

1. Petrol smell near the engine area when the engine is switched off during the wait time in the traffic. I tried examining for the petrol leakage from the fuel outlet tube but failed to notice any leakage. But still the smell continues..

2. The chain needs lubrication to solve the chain beating sound.

3. An oil change and oil filter change on the cards. RE manual recommends RE engine oil 15W50 API SL JASO MA. I am keen on using the Semi-Synthetic (S.S) oil this time. Which is the best S.S oil that is suggested?

4. I am planning for shock absorbers adjustment to make the ride more comfortable as explained by Arizona Jim in one of the posts.

5. The mileage reduced drastically during my last long ride. I hardly got 28 kmpl. I was cruising at around 90-100 Kmph. May be after the service, the mileage should improve!!

I am pretty sure that the RE A.S.S guys will not attend all the above issues perfectly. So I am planning to get things done in my presence at a friendly Bullet Mechanic's garage in Bangalore. Can someone suggest a mechanic in and around South Bangalore.

Thanks in advance..
Quote:
Originally Posted by msrsooraj View Post
I have a 2014 classic 350 with slightly more than 10k km in the odometer. I don't ride my bike hard and I am sure I take very good care of her. My concerns are that every time I shift from to the 2nd gear from the first, it produces a painfully loud THUD!!! Is this something that's common with every other Enfields os should I be worried? I ofter press down the clutch, wait for 2 seconds so that the engine speed becomes really slow, and then shift to the 2nd gear so that the same does not happen. Its not like i'm making it do something its not supposed to be doing. I'm only shifting it to the 2nd gear. I don't rev it too hard either. I always keep the revs to moderate unless absolutely required. The engine oil and stuffs are new and i only recently got it serviced. The guy at the service center told me that its something only time can solve, the more you ride the better it gets he says. So, any thoughts?
10K kms is enough time for gear teeth to bed in. I don't believe its going to be any better with time. Do you get the sound when shifting from neutral to 1st gear ?
I suggest you start simple - check / adjust the clutch play. A loose chain will also cause clanking sounds when shifting through gears especially the lower ones.
I don't know much about the integrated gearboxes of the newer bulls so cant really comment on anything else.
Hope this helps.
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Old 2nd April 2015, 18:01   #1620
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

Quote:
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My concerns are that every time I shift from to the 2nd gear from the first, it produces a painfully loud THUD!!! Is this something that's common with every other Enfields os should I be worried? So, any thoughts?
Hmmm, downshifting from 2nd to 1st is not a very common riding practise at least for me, I ride a Classic 500. if I'm at speeds low enough to stop, I tend to stop in 2nd gear, shift to neutral and only downshift to 1st when I'm ready to move again.

IMO this habit of mine has developed because of the 2nd --> N --> 1st Downshift pattern in RE and also because the Bull pulls very cleanly in 2nd gear. I've never felt the lack of power to downshift further in urban riding situations if I've slowed down too much in 2nd gear and need to pick up speed again.

I don't have enough info or insights to comment on your loud thud issue - I reckon you should show it to a competent mechanic - doesn't sound normal to me. FWIW, my Classic 500 has a distinct but very smooth thud sound at gear changes which I find reassuring and it actually helps with my riding in the absence of a gear shift indicator.
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