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Old 25th April 2015, 02:59   #1666
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

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Originally Posted by rki2007 View Post
I am tired of getting things sorted out in my TBTS 350. One more issue has crept in.

Recently I had my bike serviced from a Bullet Mechanic. I had the issue of the rear wheel not freely rotating. I mean it was hard to rotate the wheel from a stationary position. I felt like a bit of brakes were applied to the wheel or may be due to lack of oil, the wheel was not freely moving.

The Mechanic just sprayed some oil onto the disk and for some time, it was fine and now again after few hundred kms, the wheel noise and free movement has become a problem. Also when I apply the rear brake, there comes a noise which is quiet irritating.

What can I do to get this sorted out?

Experts, please help. Thanks in advance.
Get a new mechanic.
Under no circumstances should oil or any lubricating fluid ever be applied to a disk brake or the disk brake pads.
Doing so totally destroys the brakes ability to work and this may be life threatening.

Take your RE to a good mechanic. Tell them someone applied oil to the rear disk brake and you want it to be fixed.

There are several different things that can make a disk brake drag which will make the wheel hard to turn.

I have seen disk brake systems in which the fluid level in the master cylinder had been overfilled. Without an airspace to expand into, a very slight heating of the brake fluid can cause the brake pads to press against the brake rotor, effectively "applying the brakes". The dragging brake in turn creates heat which heats the brake fluid more causing it to push the brake pads even harder against the brake rotor. It is an endless cycle that can totally lock up the brake.

This "overfilling" problem can be fixed by simply removing the excess fluid from the master cylinder thereby lowering the fluid level to the proper height.
One should never overfill the master cylinder on any hydraulic brake system. (More is NOT better.)

Another thing that can cause brake drag can be excessive dirt or a lack of lubrication on the pins and slides that allow the caliper to move sideways as the brake is applied.
This lubrication is not common oil. Rather, it is a special heat resistant grease made only for this specific application and it should only be applied by a competent mechanic.

Dirt and corrosion can cause the pistons in the caliper to stick.
These pistons push the brake pads against the disk to stop the vehicle.

If the piston bores become corroded from water the pistons can not slide easily. This problem can sometimes be fixed by disassembling the caliper and totally cleaning it and the pistons. If the corrosion is excessively bad, the caliper/pistons must be replaced.

Last and possibly least, the brake pads themselves may be in the process of coming loose from the steel backing plate they are attached to.
This is rather rare but it has happened.
If the adhesive that bonds the pads to the backing plates has failed, the only repair is to buy new brake pads and pitch the old ones into the trash.
There is no adhesive available to the public that can "reglue" the pads in a safe way.

The bottom line is, take your motorcycle to a GOOD mechanic that is familiar with a Royal Enfield and its disk brakes.

If the motorcycle is still under warranty this should be repaired at little or no cost. If the motorcycle is out of warranty, spend the money to get it properly fixed. Your life depends on it.

Last edited by ArizonaJim : 25th April 2015 at 03:02.
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Old 25th April 2015, 08:34   #1667
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rki2007 View Post
I am tired of getting things sorted out in my TBTS 350. One more issue has crept in.

Recently I had my bike serviced from a Bullet Mechanic. I had the issue of the rear wheel not freely rotating. I mean it was hard to rotate the wheel from a stationary position. I felt like a bit of brakes were applied to the wheel or may be due to lack of oil, the wheel was not freely moving.

The Mechanic just sprayed some oil onto the disk and for some time, it was fine and now again after few hundred kms, the wheel noise and free movement has become a problem. Also when I apply the rear brake, there comes a noise which is quiet irritating.

What can I do to get this sorted out?

Experts, please help. Thanks in advance.
Consider buying a disc brake cleaning spray. It comes in a large Aerosol can and lasts for several uses. Available from many known brands like Abro etc. it should clean out a lot of the grime and oil deposits so that you have better bite in the brakes.
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Old 27th April 2015, 06:33   #1668
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

Dear Friends,
I have an engine, an old one here in USA. I want to get it to India. Would need to know the process/procedure to get it into India.
Can I have some more information on this engine? I know this is a 3 box one, twin cylinder, guess it is a 750 CC.
Any updates on parts availability?
Venky
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Old 27th April 2015, 14:12   #1669
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

I'm not exactly sure about this but I'd guess a series one Interceptor. That single amal monobloc carb setup was wasn't there for the post series 1 models, also looking at the magneto setup I'd say it is a series 1 Interceptor. Is there a VAX prefix on the engine?

Excellent find though, worth a rebuild. I'm afraid parts and support for a rebuild of this nature (if you do manage to get that motor into the country) would be nonexistent here in India.

If you are based in USA why not get it done up there itself, I'm sure all the necessary parts (engine) can be shipped (Hitchcocks) or even made to the tight tolerances that would be required.

An old ad of the Interceptor

Name:  Britad67RoyEnfld_Int.jpg
Views: 1047
Size:  49.1 KB

Regards,

BOV

Last edited by B O V : 27th April 2015 at 14:13.
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Old 27th April 2015, 20:46   #1670
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

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Originally Posted by B O V View Post
I'm not exactly sure about this but I'd guess a series one Interceptor. That single amal monobloc carb setup was wasn't there for the post series 1 models, also looking at the magneto setup I'd say it is a series 1 Interceptor. Is there a VAX prefix on the engine?

Excellent find though, worth a rebuild. I'm afraid parts and support for a rebuild of this nature (if you do manage to get that motor into the country) would be nonexistent here in India.

If you are based in USA why not get it done up there itself, I'm sure all the necessary parts (engine) can be shipped (Hitchcocks) or even made to the tight tolerances that would be required.

An old ad of the Interceptor

Attachment 1364738

Regards,

BOV
Thanks BOV,
Yes, it is an Interceptor.
Will check for part. Planning to get it to India.
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Old 28th April 2015, 19:05   #1671
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

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I too had faced the same issue. That time,the culprit was overtight chain. Check the chain first. If its too tight, loosening it will rectify the complaint.

You mentioned that the mechanic applied oil in the disk. Just curious to know. Did he apply that in the brake disc?

I assume you have the new bird with disc brakes. Dirt/ grime in the brake pads can also cause the noise while breaking. Cleaning those should help. Dirt can also cause the wheel to not rotate properly. Also make sure the brake pads are not worn out.

These are my few initial thoughts. If every thing is normal will have to think of other causes.
Yes I have a TBTS 350 of 2014. I think my Mechanic did apply oil on the components in the wheel. I am not 100% sure on that. Anyways I will look into the chain aspect and disc cleaning/replacement as well.

Even today during an emergency braking at around 40 kmph speed, my rear wheel slipped out of line. In between, the rear rubber is good enough for much more miles.

Will get this sorted out soon.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ArizonaJim View Post

The bottom line is, take your motorcycle to a GOOD mechanic that is familiar with a Royal Enfield and its disk brakes.
Yes, will consult a good Mechanic soon and get things sorted out.
Thanks for such a detailed explanation. Really appreciate all your contributions to the forum.

In between what is the average life of a brake pad under normal city riding conditions?
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Old 28th April 2015, 23:32   #1672
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

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Originally Posted by rki2007 View Post

... what is the average life of a brake pad under normal city riding conditions?
That is almost impossible for me to say. So much of the life of the pads depends on how they are used, the answer will vary widely.

To give some perspective on the pads life, I changed the front pads on my 500cc G5 (Electra in India) after riding about 9500 miles (15,300 km), and the pads were worn about 70 percent (30% life remaining).

Before you jump to the conclusion that the pads life would be 13,600 or so miles (22,000 km), understand that most of the mileage was ridden at speeds that average 45 mph (73 kmph) in city traffic. I almost never ride at speeds below 35 mph (56 kmph).
I use my front disk brake for all of my main braking, lightly applying the rear drum brake at the same time.

As the amount of energy involved in stopping a vehicle is exponential, stopping from 73 kmph creates a great deal more heat and wear than stopping from speeds of 40 kmph.

For this reason, I would guess that the typical rider in India city traffic should be able to expect the life of his/her front disk brake pads to be over 30,000 km.

This estimate assumes of course, the brake is working properly and not dragging while the motorcycle is being ridden.
If your brake pads have been dragging for some time, do not be surprised if they need to be replaced.
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Old 29th April 2015, 09:33   #1673
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

hello folks my TBTS 350 "09" model has served me well so far with about 70k kms on the dial it is been quite a reliable journey. However one persistent problem which keeps on reoccurring is the wheel bearings (especially the rear). I always use the SKF bearings but they tend to wear out really soon. I have heard that there is a better alternative to these. Can anyone please guide me on this.
regards.
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Old 29th April 2015, 10:53   #1674
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[quote=schitre05;3696141bearings (especially the rear). I always use the SKF bearings but they tend to wear out really soon.
[/QUOTE]
Hi schitre05,
How frequent does this bearing failure happens ? IMHO you should rule out the causes of wear before installing a new bearing. Sealed bearing (the one available at the authorized parts dealer are sealed ones) last long with motorcycles as there is no provision to lubricate the bearings (especially after riding in heavy downpours through water logged regions) without dismantling the whole wheel assembly. So the sealed bearing to some extend prevent water and dirt from entering the bearings, thereby extending its life time.
regards adrian

Last edited by adrian : 29th April 2015 at 10:56.
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Old 2nd May 2015, 23:48   #1675
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Hi What's the standard expected life of a classic 500 engine. I mean if it's been run in properly how many kms before u need to do an engine rebuild under normal usage/conditions
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Old 3rd May 2015, 12:25   #1676
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

I've just done an engine rebuild on my '83 CI.

Weird thing I've noticed is that it's giving the dreaded kickback, at times.

My starting procedure has been the same as always from the 5 years I've had it.

So in the interest of preserving my right leg, can anyone help me out.

Regards,

BOV
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Old 3rd May 2015, 14:26   #1677
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Typical case of advanced timing. Open the points cover, loosen the two base plate nuts, slightly rotate the base plate clockwise by approx 10 mm. This should make a difference
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Old 3rd May 2015, 22:30   #1678
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Typical case of advanced timing. Open the points cover, loosen the two base plate nuts, slightly rotate the base plate clockwise by approx 10 mm. This should make a difference
Thank you, had an idea it was an advanced timing.

Sorted it out.

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Old 7th May 2015, 13:29   #1679
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Is it possible to fit a projector headlight in a Classic 350? A quick Google does show some assemblies available but I fear they would be cheap Chinese ones without warranty.
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Old 7th May 2015, 15:10   #1680
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

Hi Friends,

MY TBTS 500 is 1 Year old and the Battery has started acting up.
The battery icon on the panel is blinking continuously and i see a marginal drop in light and power output of the lights.

looking at the forums it seems i need to go in for a replacement battery and as per consultation from the RE service center i should have it replaced as well.

The cost of Amaron Battery with the RE service center is
1) Amaron Battery Sealed 60 months warranty - Rs 3000
2) Amaron Battery Sealed 60 months warranty with Bracket- Rs 3800

However doing some online research i was able to fine the below options
1)http://www.vicampgroup.in/two-wheele...ER%20-%20ALPHA
->ABR-PR 12APATX90 -> Rs 2035

2)on Batterywale.com
->Amaron ABR-PR-12APBTX50 -> Rs 1282
->Amaron ABR-PR-12APATX50 -> Rs 1528

3)http://www.amaronprobikerider.co.in/powerfitments.aspx

Now, I am confused on which model should i go for and it this is the same as provided by the RE Service Center.

Request members to help as best as possible.

Can one of our members who has recently bought a TBTS share a snap of the Battery and its warranty card

Regards,
Jimit
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