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Old 8th May 2015, 23:12   #1696
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

Fwiw, new t'birds have 8Ah battery made by Amaron as OE fitment, as seen on a colleague's Feb'15 350cc model.

My '08CI with 60/55w h/light is on 9Ah Amaron -seemingly down from 14Ah exide, but it does perform better than exide which couldn't even handle lights & blinkers together. Been so for 3 yrs but then mine doesn't have the ES anymore
Had also fitted same to another 5sp ci electra with the ever-so-crappy Varroc ES motor & the batt could crank the engine fine (yup, without any de-compressor), though i did not have the bike to asses long term.

cheers.,

Last edited by Rennjit : 8th May 2015 at 23:24. Reason: ;-)
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Old 9th May 2015, 13:50   #1697
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Originally Posted by Rennjit View Post
My '08CI with 60/55w h/light is on 9Ah Amaron -seemingly down from 14Ah exide, but it does perform better than exide which couldn't even handle lights & blinkers together.
As per the Royal Enfield site, only the 350 is 8AH. The 500 still uses the 14AH.

Last edited by Rudra Sen : 10th May 2015 at 12:24. Reason: quote trimmed
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Old 10th May 2015, 02:29   #1698
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Few posts back,a member asked a question on breather pipe which had cracked at several places, and thereby, leading to his motorcycle idling at a higher rpm.

Since, the query remains unanswered and also because I'm riding my Classic 350 on a severely cracked breather pipe for last few months, I thought of bringing up the issue again.

Is a cracked breather pipe something to be worried about. In my case it is not spewing any engine oil. Atleast, I have not noticed any.
Shall, I change it or continue as such after patching it up with an electrical tape.??
Gurus enlighten me.
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Old 10th May 2015, 15:10   #1699
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Originally Posted by escape velocity View Post
Is a cracked breather pipe something to be worried about. In my case it is not spewing any engine oil. Atleast, I have not noticed any.
Shall, I change it or continue as such after patching it up with an electrical tape.??
Gurus enlighten me.
Breather pipe cracked should not affect idling. It is just to vent out crankcase pressure and excess oil.
On the hand, the rubber piece that connects the filter to the carb, if cracked, will affect idling.

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Last edited by Rudra Sen : 11th May 2015 at 07:25.
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Old 10th May 2015, 21:02   #1700
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Hi All
I got delivery of my TBTS350 last month and have clocked 400km so far. I am facing some minor niggles with the bike and want your suggestions on what the issue could be :
1. Even after bike starts self start switch continues to engage the starter motor if the switch is pressed accidentally in neutral- shouldn't the switch cut off engaging motor after engine is started?
2. There seems to be some buzzing noise when applying front brake- it sounds more like electrical spark noise than anything mechanical... I could be wrong though.
3. It sometimes very difficult to cold start the bike through kick and self start. It is as though the engine is running a very lean mixture (I am guessing from the noise engine makes)

Have others experienced similar issues? I plan to take my bike for first service sometime next week and would appreciate any inputs
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Old 11th May 2015, 02:14   #1701
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

sathish81
The electric starter button and the starter solenoid (relay) have no way of knowing if the engine is running so, if the button is pushed while the transmission is in neutral or while the clutch is pulled in, the starter motor will try to start the engine.

To put in a lockout circuit which would prevent the starter motor from running when the engine is running could have been done when the electrical circuits and the computer was being designed but I believe most would agree, that would be a overly complex "fix" for a problem that is rarely encountered.

The buzzing noise is possibly caused by the slots in the front disk.
As the brake pad passes over these it can create a buzzing sound because of local air turbulence in the slots. Then again, it might be due to some movement in the pads.
When you take your motorcycle in for its first service tell the mechanic about it and ask him to check out the front brake. He can't do anything about the air turbulence in the slots but if there is a mechanical reason for the sound, he needs to fix it.

All of the modern motor vehicles are set up to run on the lean side. This is done to reduce air pollution.
Again, ask your mechanic to check out the fuel system and to adjust it to improve the cold starting problem.
Sometimes it just takes a small adjustment to make a big difference.
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Old 11th May 2015, 06:28   #1702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArizonaJim View Post
sathish81
The electric starter button and the starter solenoid (relay) have no way of knowing if the engine is running so, if the button is pushed while the transmission is in neutral or while the clutch is pulled in, the starter motor will try to start the engine.
Thanks arizonajim. Will ask the mechanic to check these out.

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Last edited by Rudra Sen : 11th May 2015 at 07:26.
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Old 11th May 2015, 10:55   #1703
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Quote:
Originally Posted by escape velocity View Post
Few posts back,a member asked a question on breather pipe which had cracked at several places, and thereby, leading to his motorcycle idling at a higher rpm.
Apart from a couple of others it happened on my Tbird500 as well. I asked the RE service centre guys to replace the air breather pipe during the first service but they didn't have it in stock so they identified the place it was cracked and chopped off that part. Fortunately it had cracked near the end of the pipe so they had that part cut off and refitted the pipe. It was during the second service that the pipe was replaced and that problem hasn't occured since then.

Last edited by navin_v8 : 11th May 2015 at 10:57.
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Old 11th May 2015, 11:09   #1704
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

Hi folks,

I suspect the same pipe was an issue recently on the Bruce. The idling RPM went on a see-saw wave pattern starting from 1000- 1500 - 2000 back to 1000 so on and so forth.

I'd gone to the service center to sort out the issue, they opened a slot just in front of the fuel tank, took out the pipe (i think it's one of the 2 pipes that come from the fuel tank - that's what the service guy told me) and nibbed out the end and stuck it back in. This time onwards, the RPM settled in.

Regards,
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Old 13th May 2015, 12:03   #1705
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I'm giving in my C350 for the 5k service tomorrow. Could someone give me some pointers on what should be replaced/changed? Since the last time I took my bike into the Stealership the only thing they told me was "replace".

Also, I'm suffering from a huge lack of grip, especially under braking. The front feels like its going to give way and throw me off while the back fishtails under moderate braking. Could this be the fault of the tyres or is there is a more deep-rooted problem at work here?
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Old 13th May 2015, 14:59   #1706
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I recently got by Bullet UCE serviced, and went for a long drive (Pune > Nashik > Pune totaling up to 430 kms) over last weekend. While the Bullet performed well, and I did not have any trouble on the way there was one minor but troublesome issue:

I noticed oil spilling down from the Air Filter box, onto the silence and bend pipe. In addition, the Air Filter has became clogged due to the oil coming out from the breather pipe. I also noticed some oil strains on inside of the silencer (not sure how can oil enter inside the silencer) !
Any idea why RE thought of ending the Breather Pipe into the AF box? This is creating a lot of mess.

I know that the root cause is oil filled beyond what is recommended quantity. Not sure why the RE Service centers fill more oil than the capacity.

The question is - Is there a way (that is a DIY way) to somehow route the other end of the breather pipe onto the "chain", rather than in the Air Filter box? If that is possible, it will be a long term fix and will serve 2 purposes: A) The Air Filter will not get clogged B) The chain will remain lubricated.
Has anyone done it?
Any other suggestions are welcome too!
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Old 13th May 2015, 15:34   #1707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bulletboy76 View Post
The question is - Is there a way (that is a DIY way) to somehow route the other end of the breather pipe onto the "chain", rather than in the Air Filter box? If that is possible, it will be a long term fix and will serve 2 purposes: A) The Air Filter will not get clogged B) The chain will remain lubricated.
Has anyone done it?
Any other suggestions are welcome too!
I don't know of any reliable DIY methods of fixing the root cause of the original problem, but there is already a commercial solution which addresses point B) of yours & works on a similar principle. It's called Scottoiler V System and is available in Bangalore. I have gotten tired of cleaning & lubing my chain manually every so often and have been thinking of going for it.

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Old 13th May 2015, 15:36   #1708
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Thanks outofthebox , but I am more concerned about the Problem A I.e. Air Filter getting oil drenched.
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Old 13th May 2015, 16:03   #1709
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@bulletboy76 : The breather pipe is routed to the air filter box because the harmful fumes from the engine do not pollute the atmosphere and are absorbed back (to some extent) through the air filter.

Even if overflowing oil is channeled to the driving chains, the original problem persists. An engine overfilled with oil will burst seals and cause improper lubrication to components due to frothing of oil.

Instead of going for costly shortcuts, it would be better to find some time to drain the excess oil out of your bullet so that your machine stays healthy and air contamination is also avoided to a great extend.

As for the lubing of the drive chain, no contraptions can give the benefits of the chain being de-greased and lubed periodically and manually.
regards arun

Last edited by adrian : 13th May 2015 at 16:09.
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Old 13th May 2015, 16:11   #1710
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I have never had that problem in my ~10k km RECL500 but then I'm borderline OCD when it comes to engine oil. Have changed it 4 times and I do it myself, don't let anyone else touch that part. Whenever I change oil, I also change the ring seals as well as the oil filter - they are cheap to replace, why take any chances? also, I am on full synthetic since many '000 clicks.

I'm guessing that in your case oil is ending up in your AF box because of oil breakdown. i.e. oil which vaporises due to high temperatures and then condenses back in cooler parts of the system. Oil breakdown itself happens because of poor quality of oil and contaminants in it.

Again, this is just a guess, to help you find the root cause. There may be other reasons. But if this is indeed the cause then I guess you can figure out from here what to do about it.
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