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Old 9th December 2015, 00:36   #2116
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

Hi All,
My right side indicator lights up along with the head lamp and stays ON.
When i turn off the headlamp, both the left & right indicators blink normally.
Will this issue drain my battery ?
I beleive the headlamp switch is the culprit.
Is there a DIY solution for the switch ?

Last edited by Rugged : 9th December 2015 at 00:37. Reason: typo error
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Old 9th December 2015, 01:01   #2117
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Originally Posted by navin_v8 View Post
. But then the CI500 is a different league altogether. It will be like climbing from a Gaur Bison(Bullet CI 350) onto an Asian Elephant(CI 500). I hope you get my drift... The Machismo AVL 500 can be considered if you are not allergic to aluminium engines.

Just to clarify I have a classic350


And I very well get you're point, I have ridden all the bikes from the RE stable sans the city535. And yes the 500's are in a league of their own.
Im no purist, dont get me wrong I do love seeing a factory spec RE, but i love riding them on the open road, and up the twisties. And the LB 500 is my preferred choice. Heck, I am currently using a friends Machismo 500. Infact she handled the chennai floods better than most commuters.


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Though theres a problem with the accelerator cable, on full right turn the cable gets pulled, thus increasing the revs.
This is exactly what I faced. I repeat my earlier suggestion, remove the tank and stretch out the cable.
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Old 9th December 2015, 03:04   #2118
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

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Originally Posted by navin_v8 View Post


Mate the symptoms of your Tbird500 looks like the air breather pipe crack issue. This was exactly the same symptoms on my Tbird500 and once the breather pipe was repaired the issue vanished. About starting issues, always start your bike by using electric start for the first time and give a very mild throttle while doing so. The idling has nothing to do with starting issues in my opinion. Get your motorcycle tuned properly by taking it to the service centre and ask them to categorically to reduce the idling rpm in the range of 900-1000 rpm.
farhadtarapore

The air breather pipe navin v8 is referring to is the large black piece of formed rubber you see in the photo between the fuel injector body and the engines cylinder head. It shows very clearly in the photo at the top of the picture.

Any air leak in this rubber part will increase the engine idle speed and lean out the air/fuel mixture to the point that starting the engine may be very difficult.

The air leak may be due to a crack in the rubber, the clamp or bolts being loose or the sealing face of the rubber part becoming distorted.

As he suggests, having a good mechanic check it out should fix your problem.
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Old 9th December 2015, 09:30   #2119
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This is exactly what I faced. I repeat my earlier suggestion, remove the tank and stretch out the cable.
Ok, will ask the mechanic to do that today. Btw, isn't the accelerator cable already stretched out ?

Also could you guide on the perfect angle at which the bar should be set.
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Old 9th December 2015, 09:44   #2120
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Ok, will ask the mechanic to do that today. Btw, isn't the accelerator cable already stretched out ?

Also could you guide on the perfect angle at which the bar should be set.
When I had the problem, I went to my mechanic and I saw him do this, The cable snakes through the bike. It's not much, but enough to solve your issues.

As far as the angles go, just get the handle bar grips parallel to the ground, it might be a little more or little less depending on you're preference.
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Old 9th December 2015, 09:44   #2121
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Ok will check with 3M.
Btw just got lucky, was able to find RD350 handlebar locally. Cost me 150/- for the bar & 100/- for the fitting.
Though theres a problem with the accelerator cable, on full right turn the cable gets pulled, thus increasing the revs.
Other than that, the new setup has made a sea of a difference. I feel much more comfy & relaxed. Also able to control better.
A little issue with setting the bar at the right angles still persists, will have to get it fine tuned.



Great, I ride solo mostly! Next up is the Electra seat.
Btw a seats fabricator told me that though the Electra seat can be made to fit the Classic but it doesn't fit flush & one has to get it corrected after a while.
I don't know about that but there is a guy in Mumbai who specializes in making seats for the bulls.He has done lot of conversions for the classic.Since I like to keep the looks as it is I changed the rider and pillion seats of my bike to a bit more comfortable ones minus the springs.
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Old 9th December 2015, 09:59   #2122
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Originally Posted by virage View Post
Im no purist, dont get me wrong I do love seeing a factory spec RE, but i love riding them on the open road, and up the twisties. And the LB 500 is my preferred choice. Heck, I am currently using a friends Machismo 500. Infact she handled the chennai floods better than most commuters.
Mate I get your point, indeed the Machismo 500 has carved a niche of its own among riders new and old. I am on a constant lookout to procure a Machismo 500 to add to my already overflowing stable.
Quote:
This is exactly what I faced. I repeat my earlier suggestion, remove the tank and stretch out the cable.
Another easier option is to put a Tbird accelerator cable which is longer in size and can overcome this stretching issue.
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Old 9th December 2015, 10:53   #2123
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Originally Posted by navin_v8 View Post
Farhad the RPM level on a Tbird500 also increases if the breather pipe(thick black rubber pipe) has ruptures(common issue). Try and see if you are able to spot ruptures and cuts in your breather pipe, if not then you can follow the technique shown by Jim in his posts to adjust the screw. Personally I am a bit weary of playing with the EFi as compared to my mechanical carbs, hence it leave it to the experts to do that for me.
Hi folks,

I remember posting for the same problem. I have a TBTS 500 EFI. I had been to the service center 3-4 times all for the same problem. The idle speed suddenly hovers from 1500- 2000 RPM, almost like a big see saw wave.

Everytime i had been to the service center, they'd do some quick fix which suffices for about 2 weeks and the problem resurfaces.

What you can do next time when you visit the service center is to tell those folks to check the entire running length of the breather pipe. There is a small hook attached to the main frame which is primarily used to hold the cables in place. Now during normal running as we turn the handlebar left and right, this pipe can get stuck within that hook or restrict airflow. This directly causes the issues. The port where the pipe connects to is also bent. This further complicates the issue.

Solution: ask the folks to relay the piping end-to-end. To do this they will first remove the fuel tank, then open the side plate that is adjacent to the tank and then work their way up. It's a one time thingy only. I got that fixed and now the bike is just perfect.

Last edited by trumpet : 9th December 2015 at 10:55. Reason: update
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Old 9th December 2015, 11:32   #2124
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Originally Posted by trumpet View Post
What you can do next time when you visit the service center is to tell those folks to check the entire running length of the breather pipe.

Solution: ask the folks to relay the piping end-to-end. To do this they will first remove the fuel tank, then open the side plate that is adjacent to the tank and then work their way up. It's a one time thingy only. I got that fixed and now the bike is just perfect.
That is exactly what was done on my Tbird500 wherein they removed the fuel tank and checked and repaired the breather pipe. Post this the problem just disappeared. This is the beauty of TeamBHP the problems listed has precise solutions which helps one and all.
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Old 9th December 2015, 14:20   #2125
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Originally Posted by virage View Post
just get the handle bar grips parallel to the ground, it might be a little more or little less depending on you're preference.
Another issue cropped up, the handlebar had some play when pressure applied, so I tried tightening the screws, the upper ones went free

Now got the upper screws changed to bigger size. But the handle bar still moves if pressure applied. Seems some problem is there.

Haven't got the accelerator cable issue sorted yet because the handle is not settling.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rakesh_r View Post
I changed the rider and pillion seats of my bike to a bit more comfortable ones minus the springs.
I found out a seats specialist in town too Hes willing to change the stock classic to Electra(front shallow) seat. Lets see how it pans out. Will only tinker after handlebar issue gets sorted.
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Old 9th December 2015, 23:12   #2126
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

Guys, what are the differences /add ons in the 2016 Thunderbird 500 vs last model?

Asking as getting the bike. So should I wait or just go for the lighting one now.

Last edited by P.S. : 9th December 2015 at 23:14.
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Old 9th December 2015, 23:18   #2127
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

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Originally Posted by P.S. View Post
Guys, what are the differences /add ons in the 2016 Thunderbird 500 vs last model?

Asking as getting the bike. So should I wait or just go for the lighting one now.
Is there a facelift coming for the Thunderbird 500?

Are you asking casually or is there any news floating around?
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Old 9th December 2015, 23:45   #2128
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Read somewhere about a different model, so asking if there are any changes to the Thunderbird 500 sir.

Casually, if putting it your way.
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Old 13th December 2015, 07:27   #2129
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

@AWD

For your handle bar issues, there are 2 more screws just beneath the handlebar below that big screw. Tighten those and the problem would be solved.
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Old 14th December 2015, 10:14   #2130
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Originally Posted by Rugged View Post
My right side indicator lights up along with the head lamp and stays ON.
When i turn off the headlamp, both the left & right indicators blink normally.
Will this issue drain my battery?
I believe the headlamp switch is the culprit.
Is there a DIY solution for the switch ?
This looks like an electrical problem aggravated by pressure washing. I once had this issue of the horn button staying on despite of releasing my thumb. The issue was water getting inside the horn switch and making it get stuck in that position. Along with the switch the wiring also needs to be inspected. If you are a DIY guy then open the switch assembly and blow it with air to make sure the buttons work freely and do not get stuck. Secondly inspect the wires and fuse. The indicators blinking continuously is dangerous while riding as the one behind will think you want to change directions and Yes it will eventually drain the battery. Get this repaired ASAP.
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