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Old 8th August 2016, 10:19   #2476
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Fellow Bulleteers,
I have a 2007 RE Standard 350. When I bought it, I got a few things changed at the showroom itself, including rounded chrome mudguards, Machismo Fuel Tank, front disc brake, etc. Long story short, it looks like a Machismo, but is a Standard 350. To each his own, Right?

It has 19 inch alloy wheels front and back. Now here is my query:
I am thinking of the following two things:
1. Going back to spoked Rims front and back. I want to get a Front 19 Inch spoked rim, Disc Brake version. This bit seems easy.
2. For the rear, I want to get the MRF Zapper tire which comes standard on the RE Classic. So here is the dilemma:
Firstly, will the RE Classic 18 Inch rim fit directly, I know the chain is on the opposite side, but I am assuming the rim can be flipped.
Secondly, will there be any rubbing issues due to the fatter rubber at the rear.

I live in Chandigarh, and mainly drive in the city with occasional uphill ride. i know the top speed and mileage will reduce, but there will be a slight increase in the acceleration.

Any help will be appreciated in this regard.

Regards
Aashish Singh

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Originally Posted by varadnerurkar View Post
I own a classic 500 for almost 2 years now. I had some issues with the battery but now they seemed to have solved the problems. But recently I have noticed rust in some parts underneath the bike. Can anyone help me with this? Is there anything that can be done to prevent the rust by any sort of coating, etc? Also what is an average life of a battery for a classic 500? Thank you
Hey bud,
I think you first need to ascertain the root cause of rust. Normally, if the rust is caused by the acid leakage from the Battery, it will start in the battery cover. And the color of the rust will be bright. Whereas, the rust due to water is kind of dark in color as it has happened over a longer period of time.

Hope this helps.
-Aashish Singh

Last edited by Gannu_1 : 8th August 2016 at 12:10. Reason: Back to back posts merged. Please edit your previous post within the 30 minute window to add more contents to it. Thanks!
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Old 8th August 2016, 10:38   #2477
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Quote:
Originally Posted by varadnerurkar View Post
I own a classic 500 for almost 2 years now. I had some issues with the battery but now they seemed to have solved the problems. But recently I have noticed rust in some parts underneath the bike. Can anyone help me with this? Is there anything that can be done to prevent the rust by any sort of coating, etc? Also what is an average life of a battery for a classic 500? Thank you
Do you mean the rust beneath the bike due to battery fluids? or just usual rusting? If it is due to battery fluids overflowing then get it corrected by maintaining the proper level in case of a Lead Acid battery. Another trick is to use an old tyre tube and cover the upper and bottom part of the battery with the same before locking the battery cover. If its normal rusting then the best you can do is to clean it everyday (do not use pressurized washing) and use wax polish to polish the painted parts.

The average life of the battery depends on how often you ride your bike as well as preventive maintenance and service of the battery. I believe the C500 uses a 12V 14 Ah Exide Battery. On an average the battery can last as long as 3-4 years if the bike is ridden daily. If the bike is kept standing for long periods the battery life may go down in case of a Lead Acid battery(which C500 uses). I have also noticed this that the battery on my bikes lasts a tad bit longer as I don't ride during night. That 55W halogen light of RE's sucks a lot of juice from the battery.
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Old 8th August 2016, 12:43   #2478
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navin_v8 View Post
Do you mean the rust beneath the bike due to battery fluids? or just usual rusting? If it is due to battery fluids overflowing then get it corrected by maintaining the proper level in case of a Lead Acid battery. Another trick is to use an old tyre tube and cover the upper and bottom part of the battery with the same before locking the battery cover. If its normal rusting then the best you can do is to clean it everyday (do not use pressurized washing) and use wax polish to polish the painted parts.

The average life of the battery depends on how often you ride your bike as well as preventive maintenance and service of the battery. I believe the C500 uses a 12V 14 Ah Exide Battery. On an average the battery can last as long as 3-4 years if the bike is ridden daily. If the bike is kept standing for long periods the battery life may go down in case of a Lead Acid battery(which C500 uses). I have also noticed this that the battery on my bikes lasts a tad bit longer as I don't ride during night. That 55W halogen light of RE's sucks a lot of juice from the battery.
I think the rusting is due to the battery fluids because I observed the rusting mainly in the battery cover. I will immediately check the battery fluid. My average usage of the bike is 4-5 times a week 25kms per day so it is not much. I also go on long rides once or twice a month. So maybe that is the reason the battery life is reducing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by andy.001 View Post
Fellow Bulleteers,
I have a 2007 RE Standard 350. When I bought it, I got a few things changed at the showroom itself, including rounded chrome mudguards, Machismo Fuel Tank, front disc brake, etc. Long story short, it looks like a Machismo, but is a Standard 350. To each his own, Right?
I think the rusting is due to the acid leakage from the battery. Noticed the color difference. I'll get the battery checked immediately. Thanks a lot.

Last edited by ampere : 8th August 2016 at 12:50. Reason: Back to back posts merged
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Old 8th August 2016, 22:52   #2479
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Carburetor slider got damaged !!
Recently my RE STD 350 UCE 2013 model was losing power on long drives.
Going beyond 60kmph was straining effort. Engine stutters on idling and dies at long signals.
When checked with local mechanic it was found that the carb slider got ruptured. Mechanic said it would run another 1000km and suggested for a new carb.
Bullet Guru's please suggest future course of action. I have attached few pictures for reference.
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Royal Enfield Queries-1470676516367.jpg  

Royal Enfield Queries-1470676532038.jpg  

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Old 8th August 2016, 22:59   #2480
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Originally Posted by Full_Minchingu View Post
Hi, May be referring or posting in below thread would get an answer to your queries.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/indian...rocedures.html (Transfering a vehicle within India: Procedures)

Regards,
-Badri
Hi -Badri, the post you referred has information about NOC for vehicle registration and transfer. Whereas i would be going to Mumbai for 6 months and return to my native Hyderabad.
Thank you
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Old 9th August 2016, 10:19   #2481
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andy.001 View Post
I have a 2007 RE Standard 350. It has 19 inch alloy wheels front and back. Now here is my query:
2. For the rear, I want to get the MRF Zapper tire which comes standard on the RE Classic. So here is the dilemma:
Firstly, will the RE Classic 18 Inch rim fit directly, I know the chain is on the opposite side, but I am assuming the rim can be flipped.
Secondly, will there be any rubbing issues due to the fatter rubber at the rear.
Aashish mate first of all understand that the stock swing arm on your Standard CI has little clearance to fit a fatter rear tyre than the designated 3.50 size. If you want to beef up the tyre size you might also have to modify the swing arm. If you are really keen on getting a fatter rear tyre then check if you can fit the swing arm of either CL Series or Bullet 500(both share same swing arm AFAIK) on your CI 350. I will suggest you to stay away from after market swing arms as they are ridden with problems, stick to RE OEM swing arm in case you wish to modify.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rugged View Post
Carburetor slider got damaged !!
Recently my RE STD 350 UCE 2013 model was losing power on long drives.
Going beyond 60kmph was straining effort. Engine stutters on idling and dies at long signals.
When checked with local mechanic it was found that the carb slider got ruptured. Mechanic said it would run another 1000km and suggested for a new carb.
Bullet Guru's please suggest future course of action. I have attached few pictures for reference.
Rugged mate I am sure the carb slider will be available as a separate spare unit. One does not need to change the entire carb due to the slider, at least the carb slider in CI 350 can be replaced without buying a new carb. I am assuming the same will also be true for new series carb used on RE's. Do check with RE authorized spares shop if the carb slider is available as a replacement part.
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Old 9th August 2016, 11:46   #2482
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rugged View Post
When checked with local mechanic it was found that the carb slider got ruptured. Mechanic said it would run another 1000km and suggested for a new carb.
Hello rugged, the slider can be replaced and I had replaced mine at 45000KM in my 2014 Thunderbird. For this you need to disassemble the carb and is better to do it in RE ASS or your trusted mechanic. It is not that costly as far as I remember. Try replacing this before replacing your whole carburetor.
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Old 9th August 2016, 14:33   #2483
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Hi
I am trying to buy a battery tester which can tell me if the battery is charged, and if the alternator is providing sufficient current to charge the battery under running conditions. I am thinking of purchasing this from Amazon: http://www.amazon.in/Cartman-Motor-B...dp/B00R19G8RW/
Need recommendation on some battery testers anyone is using.

The procedure I will use is this: connect the terminals of voltmeter to the battery and check voltage with engine off. Should be about 12.4V give or take a few mV. Crank the engine and check same on idle. See if it increases with RPM above idling.
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Old 9th August 2016, 22:35   #2484
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Hi all
I don't know if this question was answered before, couldn't figure out how to identify the issue for search.

The issue I am observing in my 8000 km driven Electra is that when I am coasting, with no acceleration input, I get a kind of rubbing noise. This noise is not continuous but periodic, I mean like zrrr....zrrrr...zrrr.

I spoke with a local mechanic and he told me chain lubrication might be the problem. I cleaned the chain with kerosene and applied chain lube, and the sound is greatly reduced, although not completely eliminated.

Again, When driving in top gear today I purposefully fully engaged the clutch just to check, and the kind of rubbing noise is back during the time I keep the clutch depressed.

The noise is not noticible when I am giving accelerator input.

What could be wrong with my bike, should I change my engine oil which is now 3500 km old?

Could it be a issue with front sprocket or is it a chain issue at all?

Any suggestions or ideas are welcome.

Apart from this bike runs normally, FE above 40 with gentle city driving.
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Old 10th August 2016, 09:40   #2485
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vidyasagar View Post
Hi all
I don't know if this question was answered before, couldn't figure out how to identify the issue for search.

The issue I am observing in my 8000 km driven Electra is that when I am coasting, with no acceleration input, I get a kind of rubbing noise. This noise is not continuous but periodic, I mean like zrrr....zrrrr...zrrr.

I spoke with a local mechanic and he told me chain lubrication might be the problem. I cleaned the chain with kerosene and applied chain lube, and the sound is greatly reduced, although not completely eliminated.

Again, When driving in top gear today I purposefully fully engaged the clutch just to check, and the kind of rubbing noise is back during the time I keep the clutch depressed.

The noise is not noticible when I am giving accelerator input.

What could be wrong with my bike, should I change my engine oil which is now 3500 km old?

Could it be a issue with front sprocket or is it a chain issue at all?

Any suggestions or ideas are welcome.

Apart from this bike runs normally, FE above 40 with gentle city driving.
Why don't you try putting your bike on center stand and seeing where the noise is emanating from? Could be that the rubber piece that prevents the chain from grinding against the swingarm is loose or has come off and is causing the sound. I was getting a similar sound too, but I took 2 plastic ties and secured that rubber piece in place. Also adjust the chain tension if it seems loose as per your manual.
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Old 10th August 2016, 10:13   #2486
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vidyasagar View Post
The issue I am observing in my 8000 km driven Electra is that when I am coasting, with no acceleration input, I get a kind of rubbing noise. This noise is not continuous but periodic, I mean like zrrr....zrrrr...zrrr.

Again, When driving in top gear today I purposefully fully engaged the clutch just to check, and the kind of rubbing noise is back during the time I keep the clutch depressed.

The noise is not noticible when I am giving accelerator input.
vidyasagar mate the buzzing sound that the chain makes is quite normal and is heard in bikes with no chain covers (those fully covered chains with chain cover we see on commuter bikes makes very little sound which is mostly inaudible). As rightly mentioned by farhad I think your motorcycle chain might require correct tensioning and slack test. Get the chain adjusted to its correct slackness and see if the sound reappears. About the buzzing sound while depressing the clutch, the drive gear disengages from the front chain sprocket while the chain moves freely. This gives me a hint that your chain needs adjusting for slackness.
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Old 10th August 2016, 13:44   #2487
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Quote:
Originally Posted by farhadtarapore View Post
Why don't you try putting your bike on center stand and seeing where the noise is emanating from? Could be that the rubber piece that prevents the chain from grinding against the swingarm is loose or has come off and is causing the sound. I was getting a similar sound too, but I took 2 plastic ties and secured that rubber piece in place. Also adjust the chain tension if it seems loose as per your manual.
I did put the bike on the centre stand and observed that this little rubbing kind of sound is coming only from one part of the chain. I mean only when this part is perhaps passing over the front sprocket (or the rubber piece).

I checked the part of the chain(entire chain rather), there seems to nothing wrong optically.

Until now, I did not notice this rubber piece that you are mentioning, I need to take a closer look, will do so.

The slack on the chain is now somewhere between 4 ~5 cm now, seems to be with-in the specified limits, however, will get this checked.
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Old 10th August 2016, 14:07   #2488
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Try replacing the chain lock and see if the issue resolves. ( I believe you might have checked that already, but I had a similar issue). This costs below ₹ 100 and the mileage of around 8000km usually calls for this inspection.
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Old 10th August 2016, 15:58   #2489
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Originally Posted by drdeepudev View Post
Try replacing the chain lock and see if the issue resolves. ( I believe you might have checked that already, but I had a similar issue). This costs below ₹ 100 and the mileage of around 8000km usually calls for this inspection.
Thank you for the input. I guess you are hinting at the one link which is color marked in yellow, when you say chain lock.

I will also get this checked. I will keep you all informed when the issue gets resolved.
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Old 10th August 2016, 23:50   #2490
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vidyasagar View Post
I did put the bike on the centre stand and observed that this little rubbing kind of sound is coming only from one part of the chain. I mean only when this part is perhaps passing over the front sprocket (or the rubber piece).

I checked the part of the chain(entire chain rather), there seems to nothing wrong optically.

Until now, I did not notice this rubber piece that you are mentioning, I need to take a closer look, will do so.

The slack on the chain is now somewhere between 4 ~5 cm now, seems to be with-in the specified limits, however, will get this checked.
My Owners Manual for my 2011 Royal Enfield says the chain is properly adjusted when the mid point between the engine sprocket and the rear sprocket can be moved a total of 2.5 - 3 cm up and down with finger pressure.
This is with the motorcycle on the center stand.

4-5 cm is rather loose but it is better to be too loose than too tight.

It could explain why the chain is appearently rubbing on the rubber block on the swing arm.

It is not unusual for one, localized area of a chain to develop a problem while the remainder of the chain seems to be fine.

Inspect the chain by starting at a known place and try to twist or rotate one link up and down. It should rotate easily, with the neighboring links allowing the movement.
There should be no evidence of any link binding up and not allowing rotation of the next link(s).

If the neighboring links try to keep the link being twisted from moving, apply a generous coating of oil to them and twist the area up and down to work the oil down into the inside of the rollers and in between the side plates.

This should free the area up so it can bend around the sprockets easily like it is supposed to do.

Check the links in the entire chain for this freedom of movement. As I mentioned, some areas of a chain can have a problem while the remainder of the chain is fine.

If a binding area does not loosen up after applying some oil, the entire chain will need to be replaced.

One of the key things a person can do to keep the chain from developing these "binding problems", is to keep it well lubricated. At least once every 700 km.

This lubricating is especially important in areas that get a lot of rain.
With little or no oil inside the chain links and rollers, rain will wash away what little lubrication is in the area and then start to rust the metal down inside where you can't see.

Once rusting starts, the chain will rapidly fail.

Yes, I know. Oiling the chain usually results in drops of oil getting flung off all over the nice shiny rear wheel but that is the price of keeping a chain running smoothly.

Using a dedicated "Chain Lubrication" which is very thin when first applied and then becomes very thick after a bit of time can help the lube stay on the chain instead of on your wheel.
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