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Old 10th October 2016, 10:56   #2551
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

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Originally Posted by navin_v8 View Post
ricky mate your Tbird 350 is one of the first batches of AVL Tbird. I am glad you've still retained it. Well for the tyres you can either opt for Michelin Sirac or Ralco Speedblaster or Ceat Gripp for the rear 3.50 19 inch wheel. For the front you can opt for either Michelin Sirac Street or Ceat Gripp 3.25 19 inch wheel.
Thanks Navin, I like it more than the new ones. For rear, I think Michelin Sirac has been discontinued, will check Ceat Gripp. For front, Michelin Sirac Street looks good. I am going to change the wheel rims also, is there any particular brand of rims, also if you could help me with the cost of rims please?

Last edited by ricky_1605 : 10th October 2016 at 11:02.
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Old 10th October 2016, 11:05   #2552
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Thanks Navin, I like to more than the new ones. For rear, I think Michelin Sirac has been discontinued, will check Ceat Gripp. For front, Michelin Sirac Street looks good. I am going to change the wheel rims also, is there any particular brand of rims, also if you could help me with the cost of rims please?
Mate you can find rims dime a dozen in mechanic's garage who specializes in RE's. These are discarded by guys going for mag alloy wheels. Make sure you buy the correct size 19 inch ones. If you want to buy brand new ones then RE authorized service centers stock them. I am not very sure of the price but my guesstimate would be around 4-5K for both rims.
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Old 12th October 2016, 09:42   #2553
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Originally Posted by navin_v8 View Post
Mate you can find rims dime a dozen in mechanic's garage who specializes in RE's. These are discarded by guys going for mag alloy wheels. Make sure you buy the correct size 19 inch ones. If you want to buy brand new ones then RE authorized service centers stock them. I am not very sure of the price but my guesstimate would be around 4-5K for both rims.
Got new rims and tyres for my 2002 RE TB. Total damages:
New Rims - Rs. 1000 (basically from new vehicles who get alloys)
RD 350 Handlebar - Rs. 300
Shop : Chawla Auto Spares, Karol Bagh

Tyres - Michelin Sirac Street front - Rs. 2300 with tube
Ralco Duro Sport rear - Rs. 2000 with tube
Installation - Rs. 200
Shop : Master Tyres, Karol Bagh
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Old 12th October 2016, 09:59   #2554
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

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Originally Posted by ricky_1605 View Post
Got new rims and tyres for my 2002 RE TB. Total damages:
New Rims - Rs. 1000 (basically from new vehicles who get alloys)
RD 350 Handlebar - Rs. 300
Shop : Chawla Auto Spares, Karol Bagh

Tyres - Michelin Sirac Street front - Rs. 2300 with tube
Ralco Duro Sport rear - Rs. 2000 with tube
Installation - Rs. 200
Shop : Master Tyres, Karol Bagh
Sweet deal mate. Do share your experiences about these tyres to help others.
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Old 12th October 2016, 21:55   #2555
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

Mates,

Got a thing to ask,
I am up for buying a pre-owned TB-500 from Hyderabad. But the problem is, I stay almost 450 Km away from Hyd and want some kind of help for checking the vehicle on my behalf as I can't go there. Even the professional help will also do, I can pay the fees. Any such service providers in Hyd? All leads will be welcomed!
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Old 15th October 2016, 16:11   #2556
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

Hi,
Just wanted to know if anyone has used these 12V-14Ah maintenance-free batteries for RE

http://www.royalmotorcycle.com/seale...torcycles-427/

AFAIK, only Exide makes these kind of batteries and they are not sealed and require periodic maintenance. The batteries above seem like a breath of fresh air for Rs. 2800/-.
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Old 15th October 2016, 21:58   #2557
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

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... anyone has used these 12V-14Ah maintenance-free batteries for RE...
I am using Exide 14ah on my Electra 5s. This is the 3rd unit (including the OEM it came with) in about 11 years of ownership which I think is reasonable for a lead acid motorcycle battery. I check water about once in six months and ride very little so no reasons to complain with Exide. However, it is a welcome thing to try a new product especially the price differentials is not much. Please go ahead, and share your review after a few months :-)

[EDIT] Check the dimensions and the orientation of leads in the new battery and ensure it will fit in the battery holder compartment.

-BJ

Last edited by bj96 : 15th October 2016 at 22:01.
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Old 15th October 2016, 22:18   #2558
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Originally Posted by bj96 View Post
I am using Exide 14ah on my Electra 5s. This is the 3rd unit (including the OEM it came with) in about 11 years of ownership which I think is reasonable for a lead acid motorcycle battery. I check water about once in six months and ride very little so no reasons to complain with Exide. However, it is a welcome thing to try a new product especially the price differentials is not much. Please go ahead, and share your review after a few months :-)

[EDIT] Check the dimensions and the orientation of leads in the new battery and ensure it will fit in the battery holder compartment.

-BJ
My bike is just 1 year old and I ride it everyday. And still the battery is conking off. Battery shops i inquired with refuse to top it up saying it's no use. They want to pawn off a new battery. I have never checked the water level simply because I don't know how to. Hence searching for a product I don't have to replace every year.
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Old 16th October 2016, 00:29   #2559
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

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Originally Posted by farhadtarapore View Post
My bike is just 1 year old and I ride it everyday. And still the battery is conking off. Battery shops i inquired with refuse to top it up saying it's no use. They want to pawn off a new battery. I have never checked the water level simply because I don't know how to. Hence searching for a product I don't have to replace every year.
Checking the fluid level in a battery is not difficult IF you can gain access to the 6 screw on caps located on top of the battery.

I say "if" because the battery on some motorcycles is tucked back into areas where the caps are not easily removed.
You also have to be able to see down into the cells on many batteries to see the fluid level after the caps are removed.

If you cannot remove the plastic caps from the cells and see down into the cells, you must at least partially remove the battery.

This involves removing the electrical wires that are connected to the terminals and removing the strap that holds the battery in place.

If you decide to do this and you need to remove the battery, before you attempt to remove the wires, carefully examine the area around the metal terminals. You will be looking for the + and the - symbols.

When you find these symbols, remove the wire from the minus (negative or -) terminal FIRST.
This is the ground or "earth" wire which makes all metal parts of your motorcycle negatively charged.

Never remove the positive (+) wire first because if your wrench accidentally touches any part of the frame while the negative wire is still connected, a direct, high amperage short circuit will occur.

After removing the negative wire and then the positive wire from the terminals, remove the strap or whatever is being used to hold the battery in place and slide the battery out to gain access to the plastic caps.
Unscrew them from the cells.

Do NOT allow any fluid that is on the caps or inside the cell to touch you or anything you like. It contains a high percentage of sulfuric acid which can eat your flesh or any metal it contacts.

Using an electric light (flashlight or electric torch) look down into a cell. NEVER use a flame to illuminate the inside of a battery cell.
The cell contains hydrogen gas which will explode if it comes into contact with a flame or a lit cigarette.

You should see fluid and the fluid height should be nearly (but not completely) to the top of the cell.
There is often a reduced area or ring 20-30mm down inside the hole. The fluid should be "just touching" that ring but not far above it.
If it is, the cell is properly filled.
Once one cell is checked, do likewise on the other 5 cells.

When all 6 cells are properly filled, screw the 6 caps back in place and reinstall the battery in the reverse order you used to remove it.

If the cell(s) need fluid, add DISTILLED water ONLY.
Regular drinking water contains minerals that will harm the battery.
Adding sulfuric acid will not recharge your battery so don't even think about adding any of it to a cell.

Getting to the battery you provided the link to, it looks to be one of the new Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) batteries which are the greatest thing to happen to batteries in a long time.

They never need fluid so they do not have caps on the cells.
With no caps on the cells, battery acid can't leak out, even if the battery is laying on its side (not that anyone would ever accidentally lay their motorcycle on its side. )

bj96 makes a real good point about the size and terminal polarity on the AGM battery you are thinking about.

Not only does the battery case have to be the same size (or slightly smaller) as your present battery but the + and - terminals must be the same.

Batteries often have the location of the + and - terminals reversed to accommodate other vehicles.

Unfortunately, the "specifications" in the link did not give the case size and even enlarging their photo with my computer did not give a clue to the terminal polarity.
Before ordering this battery it would be a good idea to try to contact them and ask them for information about these things.

Let us know what you find.

Last edited by ArizonaJim : 16th October 2016 at 00:33.
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Old 16th October 2016, 08:52   #2560
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People, have anyone sealed their spoked wheel to accomodate a tubeless tire?

I an planning for some long trips to remote places in my tbts500 and have a mortal fear of puntures on those rural roads at speeds.
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Old 17th October 2016, 03:03   #2561
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People, have anyone sealed their spoked wheel to accomodate a tubeless tire?

I an planning for some long trips to remote places in my tbts500 and have a mortal fear of puntures on those rural roads at speeds.
Although no one asked, I strongly recommend not doing this.

The rims made for tube type tires are not designed to safely seal a tubeless tire.

If a tubeless tire is mounted on a tube type rim without using an inner tube in it, the tubeless tire can suddenly deflate without warning which at best results in a inconvenience and at worst results in an accident.

To prevent this sudden loss of air with a tubeless tire mounted on it, a tubeless style rim has a special shape which locks the tubeless tire in place to prevent a sudden losses of air.

This is not to say a tubeless tire cannot be used on a tube type rim. It can, but a inner tube must be used with it.

My suggestion is to buy a good tube type or tubeless tire and a new, heavy duty inner tube to use in it.

After mounting your new tube and tire, add some "Slime" or similar tube sealer to the tube, fill it with air and quit worrying about a flat.

If you buy some "Slime", make sure it is the type that is designed for use in inner tubes. They market a type for tubeless tires that won't work well in tubes.

Also, you might try riding with your tires in the same areas on the road as the car and truck tires have been using. In other words, avoid riding down the center of your lane.

Often, these "wheel track" areas have fewer nails and sharp objects because the cars and trucks ahead of you have already swept the road by picked up the sharp objects in their tires.
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Old 17th October 2016, 10:48   #2562
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

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Originally Posted by prasanna.vps View Post
People, have anyone sealed their spoked wheel to accomodate a tubeless tire?

I an planning for some long trips to remote places in my tbts500 and have a mortal fear of puntures on those rural roads at speeds.
After ArizonaJim's reply I feel sheepish, but to answer your question.

I have done that just before our trip to SaachPass last year, and I used the original tires (2011 edition c5) over the alloy no tube fully tubeless setup. The rear tire even had one puncture which was duly sealed that too with tubeless puncture repair.

Setup came out of the tyre abusive trip involving 8 days successfully, have used this setup for over a year and half of about 6500 kms since then with only air refills maybe 3-4 in those one and half years since.

A word of caution I do keep regularly checking tire for possible problems and air pressure especially before trips and keep an electric inflator and other puncher related stuff with me.

It worked for me and I think my two other friends on the same trip so hopefully this will work for anyone but sincerely I can't recommend or not recommend doing this. The dimensions of the replacement alloy were just the same as originals and the tyre fitted in nicely.

My suggestion is try it for a week, if it works then it will work out successfully.

And lastly one thing I would highly recommend is using only best quality sealant, not cheap chinese stuff, they even corrode the alloy later on.
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Old 17th October 2016, 11:35   #2563
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Thanks to both Arizona Jim and saargoga. In short, if i am going tubeless I am going to change the rims to accomodate. I appreciate the adventure of trying something new but safety first for me. Now, onto some reseach on good rims!
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Old 18th October 2016, 17:01   #2564
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

I feel silly asking this question after a year, but now that my 4 free services are over, what is the time/kms service interval for a 2015 Thunderbird 500?
Thanks.

Few things I'm planning to get done:
1) Rims changed to alloys + tubeless
2) paint touch-up on the black parts
3) chrome plating / or at worst silver paint on the rusted portions
4) usual service stuff - air and oil filter change, oil change, new throttle cable (of the two portions, one broke off, am riding on a single cable)
5) rear brake squeaking when the wheel is turned (makes a kinda loud noise that I can hear through my full-face helmet)
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Old 18th October 2016, 17:44   #2565
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I feel silly asking this question after a year, but now that my 4 free services are over, what is the time/kms service interval for a 2015 Thunderbird 500?
Mate I hope you have the owner's manual, it is clearly mentioned on it that the service interval is 3000 kms or 6 months whichever is earlier.
Quote:
1) Rims changed to alloys + tubeless
Will easily set you back by around 25-30K including tyres
Quote:
2) paint touch-up on the black parts
3) chrome plating / or at worst silver paint on the rusted portions
Get hard chroming done for better results.
Quote:
4) usual service stuff - air and oil filter change, oil change, new throttle cable (of the two portions, one broke off, am riding on a single cable)
Can be done during your first paid service.
Quote:
5) rear brake squeaking when the wheel is turned (makes a kinda loud noise that I can hear through my full-face helmet)
Get the brake pads checked along with the brake assembly(brake piston caliper, master cylinder, etc.). Also check the brake fluid level in the rear brake reservoir. Get this rectified ASAP.
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