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Old 9th November 2013, 19:02   #811
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

Hey Guys,

I am here again asking another question, I just observed since yesterday when my wife sits on the bullet with me, I feel some strange vibration on the foot pegs, feels like something brushing against something, however that does not exist when I am riding solo. Any suggestions on what could be the issue?

Its Electra 350 that I am talking about here, and the tire pressure is 22F/32R.
I checked the rear tyre and did not see anything that shows signs of anything rubbing against it. Could it be the chain? Or maybe needs lubrication? Just not sure what it is, any advice is highly appreciated please.

Another issue which i kept forgetting always is, The top of the fuel tank towards the seat has some kind of a paint finish issue, I had noticed it initially but it wasn't so bad, so ignored it, however it now looks like a sore point, Is it worth taking the bullet to the RE Dealer and asking for a finish repair or replacement? I personally would not be interested in a paint fix, Since i do not mind paying from my pocket and getting a better paint job done elsewhere than getting a buff or something from these guys at RE. Any advice on that?

I can live with that sore point though, it is just a little less shinier than the rest of the tank. Feels as if the sheen is gone, its a patch about the size of a tennis ball. Not exactly in the shape of a tennis ball though.

Which would be better? I am considering the following.

a) Ask RE to replace the tank with a new one. (Too much hassle and headache doing this, to get yet another mediocre tank from RE)
b) Get a paint buff job done at a workshop I know, who does a good job.
c) Get the tank re-painted at someplace like Dupont or elsewhere after doing some research.

I shall post pics of it first thing in the morning tomorrow.

Last edited by gearbox : 9th November 2013 at 19:10.
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Old 9th November 2013, 19:09   #812
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArizonaJim View Post
If the DOT 5 fluid is the silicone based type it will make more than a mess.
It will destroy all of the rubber components in the entire hydraulic brake system.
Been there, done that.

It sounds to me like the two brake pads are hanging up on the two guide rods in the caliper. Rust/corrosion or just a lack of a good high temperature grease on the pins can cause this. It is most likely if the motorcycle has been ridden in wet weather.

Correcting this problem isn't difficult if you have a few wrenches. You will not be opening the hydraulic system so you won't even have to mess with bleeding it.
Thanks for your suggestion Jim! I got the brake calipers cleaned today along with regular servicing. Brake cleaner is not readily available here, so made do with kerosene. The amount of muck which had gone inside was simply unbelievable, doubtless the wet weather here has contributed a lot as after the brakes starting acting up after the rains.


Earlier RE ASC used to fill yellowish coloured brake fluid, which i later learnt to be DOT 4 fluid. The brake fluid i filled now is DOT 3 and red in colour. My first thought was that the change in fluid had affected the braking. Does the lower boiling point of a DOT 3 fluid result in spongy feel upon repeated application of brakes?
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Old 9th November 2013, 21:07   #813
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

Quote:
Originally Posted by gearbox View Post
Hey Guys,

I am here again asking another question, I just observed since yesterday when my wife sits on the bullet with me, I feel some strange vibration on the foot pegs, feels like something brushing against something, however that does not exist when I am riding solo. Any suggestions on what could be the issue?
Please clean the chain with a chain cleaner spray, lube it and check if the grinding feeling is still there. Stiff chain links will cause this grinding feeling. And you must be feeling the grinding more with the pillion as the chain is more taut with the rear suspension sink of the pillion weight.

Quote:
..it is just a little less shinier than the rest of the tank...

Which would be better? I am considering the following.

a) Ask RE to replace the tank with a new one. (Too much hassle and headache doing this, to get yet another mediocre tank from RE)
b) Get a paint buff job done at a workshop I know, who does a good job.
c) Get the tank re-painted at someplace like Dupont or elsewhere after doing some research.

I shall post pics of it first thing in the morning tomorrow.
From your description, I think it is only the clear coat on the tank that is affected.

IMHO, getting it repainted will result in a different color tone than the rest of the bike. Its hard to get it right. But this issue can be fixed with a coat of clear coat I guess. But do consult with a good painting shop first.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chotu_r View Post
My first thought was that the change in fluid had affected the braking. Does the lower boiling point of a DOT 3 fluid result in spongy feel upon repeated application of brakes?
DOT4 is said to improve the braking feel of the bike. Though I have not tried it personally, Ive read about it from many places. As per my knowledge, as you have already said, it is due to the higher boiling point of DOT4 fluids. DOT4 can be safely and effectively used in systems made for DOT3 but not the other way round.

Last edited by man_of_steel : 9th November 2013 at 21:28.
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Old 9th November 2013, 21:20   #814
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

I have a new RE Classic 350 which has just completed 1000 kms.

A few days back while riding out in the morning, just after about 5 mins when stopping at a red light, the bike stalled and stopped with a loud metallic 'krrrrrrrr...' sound. The bike started again normally with ES and I carried on.

A day later, when starting and idling the bike in the morning, it again stalled and stopped with a much more louder metallic sound.

The problem has not occurred again and the bike is behaving absolutely normal for about a week now.

Is this anything to be concerned about ?
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Old 9th November 2013, 21:51   #815
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Another question about TPS. Should the yellow line be visible and outside while at idle, or should the yellow line be visible only at full throttle ?
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Old 9th November 2013, 22:14   #816
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Quote:
Originally Posted by man_of_steel View Post
Please clean the chain with a chain cleaner spray, lube it and check if the grinding feeling is still there. Stiff chain links will cause this grinding feeling. And you must be feeling the grinding more with the pillion as the chain is more taut with the rear suspension sink of the pillion weight.


From your description, I think it is only the clear coat on the tank that is affected.

IMHO, getting it repainted will result in a different color tone than the rest of the bike. Its hard to get it right. But this issue can be fixed with a coat of clear coat I guess. But do consult with a good painting shop first.



DOT4 is said to improve the braking feel of the bike. Though I have not tried it personally, Ive read about it from many places. As per my knowledge, as you have already said, it is due to the higher boiling point of DOT4 fluids. DOT4 can be safely and effectively used in systems made for DOT3 but not the other way round.
Hey Manofsteel,

Thank You for the advice man, Yeah you are right i feel the grinding to be much more with a pillion, solo riding does not tend to have the issue. The chain is only 300kms old, the bullet itself has done only 300kms, would you still recommend cleaning and greasing it?

I had bought a Castrol Premium Grease pouch today, I can clean the chain with diesel/kerosene and then wipe it dry, will dip the chain in hot grease and will leave it overnight, does that sound good or is there any other better way to do it?

Also, I am not really keen to get the repaint done, I feel like getting a good paint repair done by a guy here, he is really good, and has done some paint repair jobs on my Swift with good results. I shall consult him first.

I am really not keen to check with the RE guys, they are useless and I know for a fact they will tell me it was my fault and i rubbed the tank against something to cause the dullness.
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Old 9th November 2013, 23:06   #817
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

Quote:
Originally Posted by gearbox View Post
Hey Manofsteel,
The chain is only 300kms old, the bullet itself has done only 300kms, would you still recommend cleaning and greasing it?
if lubed, the chain should retain the lube for next 300-400 kms. Its always good to clean and lube it once every 400 kms or every fortnight.

But what if the showroom guys didnt lube the chain while delivering? Also if ridden in rain and slush, the chain retains a fair amount of dirt on it . Cleaning and Lubing is definitely worth a shot at this.

Quote:
I had bought a Castrol Premium Grease pouch today, I can clean the chain with diesel/kerosene and then wipe it dry, will dip the chain in hot grease and will leave it overnight, does that sound good or is there any other better way to do it?
I dont know if the hot grease is a good idea for a rubber O-ring chain. Of course the rubber can take up the heat generated by the chain, but dipping it over night in hot grease doesn't sound good. Experts please comment on this.

Please refer to the below link for the process:
http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/do-yours...brication.html

Quote:
...I know for a fact they will tell me it was my fault and i rubbed the tank against something to cause the dullness.
Thats for sure.. Been there experienced that!
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Old 10th November 2013, 01:02   #818
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chotu_r View Post
Thanks for your suggestion Jim! I got the brake calipers cleaned today along with regular servicing. Brake cleaner is not readily available here, so made do with kerosene.


Earlier RE ASC used to fill yellowish coloured brake fluid, which i later learnt to be DOT 4 fluid. The brake fluid i filled now is DOT 3 and red in colour. My first thought was that the change in fluid had affected the braking. Does the lower boiling point of a DOT 3 fluid result in spongy feel upon repeated application of brakes?
I've never seen red DOT 3 fluid. That doesn't say it doesn't exist but all of the DOT 3 and 4 fluids I've seen are a pale yellow color.
The only red brake fluid I've seen is the old Girling or "Castrol Crimson" that was the only fluid that would work in old British autos without dissolving the rubber seals.
By the way, NEVER use Castrol or Girling Crimson in a brake system that specifies DOT 3 or 4 fluid.

As for compressibility of DOT 3 and 4, they are the same so no difference will be felt between the two. The only significant difference between them is the DOT 4 can be used with higher temperatures.
IMO, unless a Royal Enfield is being ridden down a long steep mountain grade at a high rate of speed the disk brake will never begin to approach the high temperatures that would need DOT 4.
DOT 4 fluid is totally compatible with DOT 3 so using it without draining the system is fine.

As for using kerosene to degrease brake pads/shoes/disks/drums I do not recommend it.
Kerosene does not fully evaporate and it can leave a light oil-like residue.

If I could not find some official Brake Cleaner I would use pure Denatured Alcohol, lacquer thinner (not oil based paint thinner) or gasoline (petrol).
All of these are flammable of course so if they are used there must be no flames, sparks or smoking around the area.

Last edited by ArizonaJim : 10th November 2013 at 01:06.
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Old 10th November 2013, 09:02   #819
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Quote:
Originally Posted by man_of_steel View Post
if lubed, the chain should retain the lube for next 300-400 kms. Its always good to clean and lube it once every 400 kms or every fortnight.

But what if the showroom guys didnt lube the chain while delivering? Also if ridden in rain and slush, the chain retains a fair amount of dirt on it . Cleaning and Lubing is definitely worth a shot at this.



I dont know if the hot grease is a good idea for a rubber O-ring chain. Of course the rubber can take up the heat generated by the chain, but dipping it over night in hot grease doesn't sound good. Experts please comment on this.

Please refer to the below link for the process:
http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/do-yours...brication.html



Thats for sure.. Been there experienced that!
Hey Man of Steel,

I agree, the PDI RE guys do before delivery is sad, I have so far had below par experience with them.

Here is a picture of the tank, with the problem area.
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I went up to them with this issue on the 3rd day after getting the bullet and they said its not a crack and is just a little paint chip off.

Here is a Pic of the problem area.
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It was only once that the bike was used in heavy rain, and it was really heavy rain, water clogged roads etc. It was just the 2nd day after I had gotten the bullet when this happened, the bull had to run through these clogged roads, So i am pretty sure there must have been slush/water into the chain.

However is there a way to determine whether the chain is dry/wet?

Here are some pictures of the chain.
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The RE manual suggests to use 90 grade oil for lubrication. Which I am yet to get. But will get it if that is what should be used. I will do the cleaning myself.

Last edited by gearbox : 10th November 2013 at 09:04.
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Old 10th November 2013, 12:47   #820
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

Quote:
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Hey Man of Steel,

..Here are some pictures of the chain.

The RE manual suggests to use 90 grade oil for lubrication. Which I am yet to get. But will get it if that is what should be used. I will do the cleaning myself.
The chain is indeed looking a bit dirty and dry. Clean it. You can use the grease you are having with you without heating Its perfectly okay. Use your finger to spread it evenly across the inside of the chain. Please NEVER try to apply the grease/ oil or try to clean the chain with the engine running in gear. You will be amazed to know how many of even experienced riders have got their fingers caught in between the chain and sprocket.
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Old 10th November 2013, 14:40   #821
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Quote:
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I agree, the PDI RE guys do before delivery is sad, I have so far had below par experience with them.
I took the delivery of my Thunderbird 350 on a fine afternoon. There was a minor crack on glass dial of the instrument panel (this is an issue which which occurs on all new Thunderbirds after some time). I notified the same to the showroom guys. They hesitated and said that it was not a big issue. I somehow took it as a pinch of salt and moved on.
After a few days, I opened the utility box and checked if the first aid kit and all the tools were present. I found out that the first aid kit was missing from the utility box, and went back to the dealer to collect the same.

This shows their sheer ignorance towards the PDI checklists. The dealers behave this way only because of Royal Enfield's brand name and popularity, as if they are doing a favour on us by selling the product. Had it been some other brand, the situation would have been totally different.

I finally got the instrument panel replaced by raising a warranty claim. The new instrument panel also developed cracks on the circumference of glass dial, just 23 days after the replacement ! Royal Enfield needs to work out on the quality of metal and paint work, and other components.
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Old 12th November 2013, 13:09   #822
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OK so i got the WD 40 cans today, will work on cleaning the chain. Now am looking for an old chain, checked with a few mechanics and was told to wait a day or two for them to arrange one.
I am not going to use the bullet till i get the drive chain cleaned properly and lubed.
The grinding does not happen always, but is something that i completely want to get rid of.
I could have taken the bullet to some mechanic for cleaning, however I want to do it myself since it would make sense as i do not want to go and pay the mechanics all the time and can easily do it in my free time.
So I now have the De-Greaser WD 40 and the Castrol Premium Grease. Do i need to have anything else to get the job done? I have all the tools.
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Old 12th November 2013, 15:55   #823
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So I now have the De-Greaser WD 40 and the Castrol Premium Grease. Do i need to have anything else to get the job done? I have all the tools.
No extra tools required, apart from an old toothbrush and lint free cloth.

Just stumbled upon an interesting experiment on effects of various solvents/lubricants and cleaners on the chain O-Ring. Interesting indeed.

Source: advrider.com
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=345397
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Old 12th November 2013, 16:42   #824
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No extra tools required, apart from an old toothbrush and lint free cloth.

Just stumbled upon an interesting experiment on effects of various solvents/lubricants and cleaners on the chain O-Ring. Interesting indeed.

Source: advrider.com
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=345397
Fantastic info Man of Steel, Thank You Much.

Seems kerosene or WD40 has little to no impact on O ring type chains. I guess I know what to use now. Infact I had used Kerosene many times for cleaning the chain on my pulsar and even on my Atlas Goldline Bicycle that I had during my childhood. Never faced any issues by doing that on either.
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Old 12th November 2013, 18:09   #825
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Gentlemen,

Is it possible to improve the performance of my 2013 Thunderbird 350 by tuning its carburettor ? Can the tuning be done by myself or I have take it to a mechanic ?
As all of you are aware, it has a UCE engine and a UCAL BS29 carburettor.

Thanks !
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