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Old 6th January 2015, 21:01   #1411
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

I have few queries concerning my TBTS 350 which i bought last year. The bike has completed 4000 kms till date.

First I wanted to check regarding the braking ability of the bike (rear brakes). It isn't very confidence inspiring to me during braking. Though the bike comes with rear disc, still the bite isn't great. The tyres are stock MRF and seem to have a good grip. So what could be the reason for this issue. I don't think the brake pad needs replacement so early. Ever since I bought the bike, the braking efficiency isn't great.

Secondly I keep getting a sound from the front, most probably the digital meter console when the bike hits a pothole. I have complained this issue during all the services with RE , but it has gone into deaf ears.

Experts your opinion please.

Last edited by rki2007 : 6th January 2015 at 21:03.
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Old 6th January 2015, 21:21   #1412
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So what could be the reason for this issue. I don't think the brake pad needs replacement so early. Ever since I bought the bike, the braking efficiency isn't great.
I can narrow down to the following points:

1) Hope the tyre pressure is maintained as per requirement;

2) Get the brake bleeding done once to ensure that there is no air entrapment;

3) How are the pads and the disc plate to look at? Even wear or any abnormalities

Do try the following and if the brakes still lack bite.
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Old 7th January 2015, 01:18   #1413
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

rki2007

Find a straight section of a smooth, paved road sometime when traffic is light or non-existent.

After making sure no one is behind you and riding at a speed of 40-50 kmph pull in the clutch lever to disengage the clutch and stomp on the rear brake pedal.

If that locks up the rear wheel, release the pressure immediately,
Your rear brake is working like it is supposed to work.

If the rear wheel doesn't lock up, you have a choice to make.

Either take your motorcycle to a mechanic and ask him to clean the rear brake disk and rear brake pads or clean the disk and pads yourself.

To clean them yourself you will need a clean rag and one of the following solvents:

Disk Brake Cleaner (comes in a spray can).
Acetone** (comes in a can or bottle).
Lacquer thinner ** (comes in a can)
Denatured Alcohol (90 percent or greater rubbing alcohol can be used. Less than 90 percent alcohol will not do the job.)
Methyl Ethel Keytone (MEK)** (comes in a can)

Do NOT use Petrol (gasoline), diesel fuel, kerosene (coal oil), turpentine, soap $ water or any kind of lubricant (including WD40).

Clean rag.

With the motorcycle sitting on the center stand, slowly rotate the rear wheel with your hand in the same direction it would rotate if you were riding the bike . Keep your fingers away from the chain or sprocket while doing this. The engine must NOT be running. Most of these fluids are highly flammable.

Wet the clean rag with the solvent and apply it to both sides of the rear brake disk.

While the disk is wet, lightly depress the rear brake pedal.

Repeat this several times using a lot of the solvent.

The idea here is to thoroughly clean the disk and the brake pads of any and all oily substances.

With clean pads and disk, you should be capable of locking up the rear wheel by depressing the foot brake pedal hard.

If, after cleaning the brake refuses to lock up after stomping on the brake pedal, take the motorcycle to a good mechanic who is familiar with disk brakes and have him check it out.

**These solvents will dissolve paint so do not get them on any painted surface.
They are also not good for your body so use them in a well ventilated area.
All of these solvents except the Disk Brake Cleaner are flammable. Do not use them within 15 meters if a open flame.

Last edited by ArizonaJim : 7th January 2015 at 01:23.
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Old 7th January 2015, 10:38   #1414
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

Quote:
Originally Posted by rki2007 View Post
First I wanted to check regarding the braking ability of the bike (rear brakes). It isn't very confidence inspiring to me during braking. Though the bike comes with rear disc, still the bite isn't great. The tyres are stock MRF and seem to have a good grip. So what could be the reason for this issue. I don't think the brake pad needs replacement so early. Ever since I bought the bike, the braking efficiency isn't great.
Try the above mentioned points first, mainly cleaning pads and bleeding. Having said that, personally I found the TB's rear disc offering no great bite like a disc brake should provide. A classic/Electra's rear drum with good brake shoe provides much more efficient braking. So, I guess its quite normal that you have felt the lack of bite of the rear brake for the TB.

Quote:
Secondly I keep getting a sound from the front, most probably the digital meter console when the bike hits a pothole. I have complained this issue during all the services with RE , but it has gone into deaf ears.
Can also be due to a loose/busted steering cone set. Check it as well.

Last edited by man_of_steel : 7th January 2015 at 10:39.
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Old 7th January 2015, 13:44   #1415
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On my TB500, i have noticed that the braking on the front disc brake is not even. Don't know how to describe it, when the brake is applied there seems to be a cyclical increase and decrease in braking efficiency. Is it because of some dust and debri or could it be something major.
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Old 7th January 2015, 15:26   #1416
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slicvic View Post
On my TB500, i have noticed that the braking on the front disc brake is not even. Don't know how to describe it, when the brake is applied there seems to be a cyclical increase and decrease in braking efficiency. Is it because of some dust and debri or could it be something major.
You mean like a pulsating feeling from front on braking?
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Old 8th January 2015, 10:06   #1417
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Originally Posted by man_of_steel View Post
You mean like a pulsating feeling from front on braking?
Yes exactly. Pulsating is the apt description.
Probable cause and solution for the same?
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Old 8th January 2015, 10:42   #1418
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slicvic View Post
On my TB500, i have noticed that the braking on the front disc brake is not even. Don't know how to describe it, when the brake is applied there seems to be a cyclical increase and decrease in braking efficiency. Is it because of some dust and debri or could it be something major.
I'd definitely recommend checking the wheel alignment. The bearing may need to be replaced. Get the disc pads inspected while you're at it. RE uses really poor quality ones that wear out in no time.

While I'm at it, I could use some help with my 2010 TB 350.

- The rear wheel alignment goes off ridiculously often. Practically every 400-800 kms, I find the rear wheel off balance, any idea why this keeps happening? My chain also falls loose far too often and I'm wondering if there's some cause-effect relationship here.

- The rear suspension is at the highest notch because I encounter hideous speed breakers that make the rear tyre smooch the mud guard if I have a pillion. This makes the ride rather harsh. Any word on better load capacity springs that can offer a better dampening?

Apologies if I am repeating a question(s)

Last edited by Tushar : 8th January 2015 at 10:54.
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Old 8th January 2015, 11:30   #1419
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Originally Posted by slicvic View Post
Yes exactly. Pulsating is the apt description.
Probable cause and solution for the same?
Most likely the steering cone set might have gone loose. Tighten it and check if the pulsating feeling is still there. In case if the handlebar becomes tight to turn after tightening the top lock nut, you may have to replace the cone set.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tushar View Post
- The rear suspension is at the highest notch because I encounter hideous speed breakers that make the rear tyre smooch the mud guard if I have a pillion. This makes the ride rather harsh. Any word on better load capacity springs that can offer a better dampening?
Was it like this from day 1 or it started happening after a fall or someone smooching/ramming the rear?

Before going for another set of springs, I think it is better to reset the suspension to the desired preload and find out where the tyre is smooching the mudguard and then hammer that part out of the reach of tyre. To find the smooch spot:

- Ride with a pillion and go over the speed breakers
- Stop the moment you hear the tyre rubbing and inspect the tyre. There should be a rubbing mark on the tyre where it has made contact with the mudguard or any other part (usually darker in color along the tire surface)
- Check the mudguard area using this mark as reference, If you have found the smooch spot hammer it out lightly or if it is a plastic bit which is an extension of the mudguard's inside, hack or file a small part off
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Old 8th January 2015, 13:33   #1420
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Posting on behalf of my brother: He recently bought the Bullet 500-Around 2 months back. Last week he took the bike and started from home. After a few hundred meters, the bike suddenly switched off. He tried to crank it again with the electric start and then there was a 'phht' (kind of a backfiring) sound and then no response, the bike is not starting with either the electric on kick start. The technician from the service center said he would come and check it but in spite of repeated calls he has not turned up. Over the phone he said it is a 'carburetor misfire' and the carburetor and fuel lines need to be cleaned and fuel pump checked. He attempted to give instructions over the phone to do it ourselves but we did not want to do that primarily because we are total newbies in this area and also considering it is a new bike, the service center should provide better support.

Request input from the experts on what the problem is and also any pointers to solving it. Considering the poor response from the authorized service center, pointers to any mechanic/workshop who can come and do the needful (assuming it is just a matter of cleaning and checking). Location is near old airport road-Bangalore
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Old 8th January 2015, 14:03   #1421
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I am looking for feedback from users of Bullet 500 standard (Carb version), as i am planning to book one shortly.
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Old 8th January 2015, 14:09   #1422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tushar View Post
I'd definitely recommend checking the wheel alignment. The bearing may need to be replaced.
Quote:
Originally Posted by man_of_steel View Post
Most likely the steering cone set might have gone loose. Tighten it and check if the pulsating feeling is still there. In case if the handlebar becomes tight to turn after tightening the top lock nut, you may have to replace the cone set.
Since the pulsating feel is there only on applying the front brake i thought the cause would be limited to the disc brake.

What would be the reason for the cone set being faulty. (The bike has not had any fall)
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Old 8th January 2015, 14:37   #1423
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slicvic View Post
Since the pulsating feel is there only on applying the front brake i thought the cause would be limited to the disc brake.

What would be the reason for the cone set being faulty. (The bike has not had any fall)
It need not necessarily be limited to the brake system. When you apply the front brake, the weight of the bike and rider will be transmitted to the front wheel from the chassis through the forks and there will be an equal and opposite force following the same path. So almost all components of the bike is involved here. So the critical part connecting the fork to the chassis while allowing a rotational movement is the cone set. If that is loose there are chances that you will get a pulsating sensation while applying the brake because that is when there is maximum load on the front forks.

Its common for all bikes that the cone set becomes faulty overtime due to the tremendous and constant loads applied on it. Also, the kind of roads we have will only speed up the process. Moisture can also be a factor which can induce rust inside the cone set making it stiff and leave it damaged overtime. I have changed the set for my old RE at around 20k or something IIRC. Rust was the culprit there. In your case it might be just loose and not faulty. Tighten the head nut and check.

Pulsating feeling might also come due to warped or bent disc rotor. However, it doesn't seem to be the cause in your case. If it was some dirt or debris in the pad it will just squeal under braking and will not cause any other troubles.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rajeevraj View Post
Over the phone he said it is a 'carburetor misfire' and the carburetor and fuel lines need to be cleaned and fuel pump checked.
Could possibly be a fuel line blockage. But Keep in mind that the B500 is carb fed and there is no fuel pump.

Last edited by man_of_steel : 8th January 2015 at 14:43.
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Old 10th January 2015, 19:06   #1424
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rajeevraj View Post
Posting on behalf of my brother: He recently bought the Bullet 500-Around 2 months back. Last week he took the bike and started from home. After a few hundred meters, the bike suddenly switched off. He tried to crank it again with the electric start and then there was a 'phht' (kind of a backfiring) sound and then no response, the bike is not starting with either the electric on kick start. The technician from the service center said he would come and check it but in spite of repeated calls he has not turned up. Over the phone he said it is a 'carburetor misfire' and the carburetor and fuel lines need to be cleaned and fuel pump checked. He attempted to give instructions over the phone to do it ourselves but we did not want to do that primarily because we are total newbies in this area and also considering it is a new bike, the service center should provide better support.
Hi Rajeevraj, just check if the rubber boot from the air filter to the carburetor is intact. Some times during a spit back through the carburetor, there is a good chance of the rubber boot dislodging from the mouth of the carburetor and if this happens the chances of the motorcyle starting is low. If the rubber boot is intact, then check in the following order

1. Check if the carburetor is getting enough fuel

Pull out the fuel line, open the fuel tap and ensure that there is a steady flow of fuel.
If you don't have a steady flow of fuel then check the vent hole in the petrol tank cap and also the fuel filter.

If you have a steady flow of fuel then plug it back and loosen the drain screw of your carburetor.

If everything feeding fuel to the carburetor (the floats and the needle valve) is fine, then you will observe a steady flow of fuel through the overflow tube. It may also be kept in mind that the fuel flow thought the drain tube must cease once the drain screw is tightened. (Please use mild force while tightening the drain screw)

Also check the air vent tube of the carburetor for blockage

If all is well with the fuel department

2.Check the electricals

Check that you ignition switch is working properly

Check the fuses (The main fuse as well as that of the TCI unit)

Check the voltage of the battery with a multi meter

Check all electrical connectors, especially those from the magneto coil for loose fit.

Pull out and inspect the spark plug cap

Take out and inspect the spark plug to see if it is fouled by carbon and if found in that state, clean and replace the spark plugs and tighten (clockwise) the fuel screw of the carburetor by half a turn.

regards adrian
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Old 12th January 2015, 10:39   #1425
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Queries

Quote:
Originally Posted by adrian View Post
Hi Rajeevraj, just check if the rubber boot from the air filter to the carburetor is intact. Some times during a spit back through the carburetor, there is a good chance of the rubber boot dislodging from the mouth of the carburetor and if this happens the chances of the motorcyle starting is low. If the rubber boot is intact, then check in the following order
Hi Adrian,
Thank you for the detailed response, we got a local mechanic to have a look and the point mentioned above was the reason. fixing this resolved the issue.

Have saved the rest of the points mentioned as troubleshooting tips for future problems
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