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Old 22nd October 2009, 22:56   #16
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@shome .. I think you are confused . What is your objective ? increasing performance ? or getting your bike roadworthy ?


From your posts .. I can see that your bike is not even roadworthy yet ,but you keep talking about K&N , sprockets , unicorn clutches ..

My reasoning is that your mechanic is just half confused of what you are ,and I am sure you must have asked him to carry out some sort of modifications and finally ended up with a pudding .

Getting back to the point .. one good reason for compression loss is improper fitting .. another reason would be that the mechanic would have over tightened the valve tappets without any free play .

Oil seals will not fail easily and I hope you have changed all the oil seals in the engine ( If you had bought the original HH kit .. .you get all the oil seals as a set . )

The splendor engine is one of the best designs I have ever come across and the reason lies in the simplicity of its design .

If you want to increase the power just get a 125 cc bore kit and try doing that rather than waste your time on K&N or swappin cbz carbs .


CT90HeadRebuild

1974 CT70 Engine

You can check out the above site .Most of the parts are the same

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Originally Posted by shome13 View Post
The mechanic didnot change the air filter after reboring.The air filter is atleast 3 years old.What are the effectd of having a bad air filter on a newly bored engine?

What air filter should I install? K& N costs around 1700/- in Bangalore.Anything with K & N performance and below 1000/- ?
That might be one of the reasons why the bike is getting switched off when you are idling .. the foam would have gone bust ..

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Last edited by bblost : 23rd October 2009 at 15:53. Reason: back 2 back posts
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Old 22nd October 2009, 23:19   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shome13 View Post
the meachanics put the bike on main stand(in neutral)and did the ignition(after assembling the engine & the bike).they said they have to keep the bike like that for two hours for run-in.I went away and came back after an hour & saw them pouring water over the engine which was very hot.

1> Is it normal for the engine to be very hot during the run-in?
2> Could the excess heat have damaged the seals in the engine to cause compression loss?
3> Am I supposed to hear any noise while riding the bike if there is compression loss?
1) Yes. During run in period, this happens as there is more friction. This is the reason why we have to change oil quite early also as there are some metallic waste also.

2 and 3) Why are you worried about compression loss ? Are you sure there is compression loss ?

And what is your mechanic upto ? Pouring water on very hot engine ?
I am very sorry to say, but your mechanic is not a mechanic.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shome13 View Post
4) The mechanic didnot change the air filter after reboring.The air filter is atleast 3 years old.What are the effectd of having a bad air filter on a newly bored engine?

5) What air filter should I install? K& N costs around 1700/- in Bangalore.Anything with K & N performance and below 1000/- ?
4) Change the air filter.

5) IMHO, first get your bike back to atleast a good normal form and then think of installing these K & N filters. Also note that in your bike the difference will not be very big as its just a 100cc bike that is tuned towards efficiency.
Go for normal stock air filter first.

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Originally Posted by shome13 View Post
What are the main symptoms of compression loss.What are the causes for a newly bored engine to suffer of compression loss?
The main symptom is power loss.

On a serious note, I think that your mechanic is learning at your cost. You are paying his cost of learning. What he has done is a pathetic job and your bike needs more attention now. Best bet is to install a new block, piston as currently I am sure that the job is sub par leading to more trouble. Go for stock block and piston if you are planning to change the block piston.

Pouring water over hot engine is not good. Metals expands on heating and contracts on cooling. The piston ( which is itself oversized IMO and badly installed along with rings ) and rings are not installed correctly leading to more trouble.

Change your mechanic and first get your bike back to near to earlier state.
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Old 23rd October 2009, 14:16   #18
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How to check for compression loss?What are the symptoms?Does HH service centres have a compression checking tool?

Is it possible to fit a 125cc head on splendor with a 100cc engine originally? Dont we also have to change the carbuereter in that case?What about the crank rod?


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Last edited by bblost : 23rd October 2009 at 15:52. Reason: back 2 back posts
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Old 23rd October 2009, 15:07   #19
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Yes, they certainly should... at least they are supposed to. Most Castrol Bike Zones also seem to have it.
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Old 23rd October 2009, 15:49   #20
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Why was the re-bore done in the first place? Why not a new piston/bore kit instead? What was the odo reading at that time? My 2000 model Splendor has 78,600 KM on the odo, still cruises at 60 KPH effortlessly with two on board and returns ~65 KMPL. I have been using premium petrol and HH 4T+ oil ever since they were introduced. It is consuming some oil lately, so I keep a can handy and check the level every fortnight.

I recently saw a banner announcing engine refurbishing camp with warranty at my HHASS and took the bike there. They checked the bike and said it was not necessary. Told me to keep checking oil level frequently and re-conditioning can be considered after another 20k KM. But for all the bikes that were accepted for the job, it was only a kit replacement and not re-boring. IMO a Splendor should be kept stock and performance mods will be a waste of time. I upgraded the rear tyre to MRF Nylogrip 300 X 18 - 6 PR recently, and mileage has dropped from 68 KPL to 65 KPL.

Something can always go wrong with re-boring. I re-bored my Shogun through a very good mechanic. But still the zing was missing afterwards, and one fine day the engine seized, after more than 2000 KM of running post rebore! I waited for a while and tried to start the bike, fortunately it started. Took it straight to the mechanic for check-up and he gave a thumbs down. So got him to give it a Nulon treatment and within weeks traded it off in the exchange scheme and bought my Splendor. Fortunately I got Rs 16,500 for it.

Last edited by Gansan : 23rd October 2009 at 15:55.
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Old 23rd October 2009, 16:16   #21
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Remember, never rebore these small displacement 4 stroke bikes.

Never get a bike rebored from a roadside mechanic.

Your bike is probably FUBAR 'ed atleast the engine is.

Get a kit from HH and replace the parts at an Authorised Service Station. If you are close to IRR, Bangalore go to Millenium. I know the service advisors there.
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Old 23rd October 2009, 17:25   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gansan View Post
So got him to give it a Nulon treatment and within weeks traded it off in the exchange scheme and bought my Splendor. Fortunately I got Rs 16,500 for it.
Traded the BOSS for a Splendour?!?! That must be the downgrade of the century! I wonder how you could survive that...
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Old 24th October 2009, 22:01   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raccoon View Post
Traded the BOSS for a Splendour?!?! That must be the downgrade of the century! I wonder how you could survive that...

My progression was Ind-Suzuki AX 100 to KB 100 RTZ to Shogun to Splendor. My "Boss" was the 1993 pre cat model. I did not like the later models available. Ditto with the RXG and RXZ models, and I never liked to buy used bikes. I had just turned 40, my mind was made up when I switched to Splendor, so there was no problem.

BTW the Splendor has it's own charm!

Last edited by Gansan : 24th October 2009 at 22:12.
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Old 25th October 2009, 02:15   #24
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^^^ Mebbe when I'm 40 I might think different. But right now the thought of having to ride a Splendor makes me want to commit suicide...
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Old 25th October 2009, 02:23   #25
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@ shome13 - first thing you need to do is to run!!
Run really away from your current mechanic and never show up at his workshop again. Splendor engine is really simple and changing a piston block kit is half an hour job and you just cant go wrong with it. You can do it even at home if you have basic tools and knowledge.

Finding a good mechanic for the most sold bike in world should not be difficult.

Everyone here is telling you to go for piston-block kit and in normal circumstances even I would recommend the same but in case of splendor I would recommend you to go for an oversize only if you can find a good lathe. The quality of piston-block kit for splendors has really gone down.
They use to retail for 1600 rs some time back but now are available for ~900 rs last checked. The quality of piston in the block kit is not upto mark. A Mahale/USHA oversize should do the trick. In my opinion mahale is better of the two.

cheers
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Old 25th October 2009, 07:28   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raccoon View Post
^^^ Mebbe when I'm 40 I might think different. But right now the thought of having to ride a Splendor makes me want to commit suicide...
Sure thing my young friend! The priorities will change, other things will take precedence. But the passion will never quite go away. Even at 49, I am now getting the itch for the all new ZMR, just biding my time for the dust to settle and factual user opinions to emerge. In fact my choice of car (Alto) was influenced by this, I wanted to save up 50 - 60k for the bike purchase.

Enough of OT, let the original discussion continue!
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Old 27th October 2009, 16:11   #27
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Some1 told me that "If there is compression leakage,should there be fumes in the crank casing.If u open the engine oil insertion cap(while the engine is running),should there be fumes coming out"

1> Is the above statement true?
2> Is it ok to open engine oil insertion cap while engine is running?
3> Could it lead to ignition of escaping gases(due to excess available oxygen from air)?
4> If there is compression loss where would the gases leak out from?
5> could there be an unburnt petrol smell in exhaust if there is compression loss?
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Old 27th October 2009, 16:26   #28
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@shome13, Boss the work done by your mechanic is of no good quality. He hasnt checked and provided the correct reboring clearance values to the lathe. The wrong clearance value is causing excessive friction or the clearance is more which is causing your bike to overheat and underperform.

The clutch plates might be changed but may not be of the correct specification and hence causing issues.

Also before you make changes to filter and all if you could get the bike run like what you had it earlier then u will be relieved to enjoy it and then slowly think about making any mods.

This is what i feel like. Other experienced people will be able to give more helpful suggestions.
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Old 30th October 2009, 15:49   #29
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SOME ONE PLZ ANSWER MY PREVIOUS QUERRIES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

sorry for the caps but I am waiting for four days for a reply from anyone knowing about motorbikes & 4 stroke engines

Last edited by Jaggu : 30th October 2009 at 16:36. Reason: Please avoid using exessive number of smilies, 2 per post. Thanks
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Old 30th October 2009, 16:40   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shome13 View Post
Some1 told me that "If there is compression leakage,should there be fumes in the crank casing.If u open the engine oil insertion cap(while the engine is running),should there be fumes coming out"

1> Is the above statement true?
2> Is it ok to open engine oil insertion cap while engine is running?
3> Could it lead to ignition of escaping gases(due to excess available oxygen from air)?
4> If there is compression loss where would the gases leak out from?
5> could there be an unburnt petrol smell in exhaust if there is compression loss?
1) Yes if the leak is major it will show some amount of smoke.
2) Yes but be careful, coz hot engine oil might spill on to your hands.
3) Not really, since oil is not that easily inflammable. Ideally do it before engine becomes very hot.
4) Usually the rings are the culprit.
5) No but oil can get burned due to leaky rings and the exhaust tip will become wet.
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