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Old 6th November 2009, 12:29   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pretorian View Post
Hi Sajid,
A month back, I had purchased a 74 Bull, offlate after riding for 100kms, my bull stops after riding for some 5kms. It stops with small jerks, as though it has run out of petrol, but there is petrol.
Not saying this could be your case, but when my 1989 Bullet's engine kept dying every couple of kilometres on an outstation trip it turned out that the fuel cap was too snug, creating a vacuum in the petrol tank. This apparently hinders the flow of petrol. A tiny hole in the cap that was meant to equalise pressure had been blocked with dirt -- cleaning this solved the problem. Stopping by the roadside for a few minutes to check the spark plug got the bike running (temporarily), probably because it gave the petrol a chance to flow into the carb again. But this proved to be a false diagnosis!
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Old 6th November 2009, 13:04   #17
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Hey Edsel, I have a hunch that you could be right, my fuel cap is indeed a bit tight. If it doesn't work out, then I'll check out crazy4s's comment.
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Old 6th November 2009, 13:35   #18
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Originally Posted by reddy6980 View Post
Hi crazy4s,

I have a 2005 Electra 5s. I just wanted to have a good thump sound like the old bullets. I have even installed the old silencer. But the thump is not so good.
I heard that if the breather pipe(i hope this is correct,it is below the spark plug) is blocked the thump will get good is it true.

Pls give suggestions on making the thump better.

Regards,
Vamsi

Attachment 222723
hi reddy,

i dont think thats gonna work.
where did you get the old silencer from? i hope it was not from some outside the service station shop.
get the original that comes from company.
i had also remove the big glass wool one and installed an old silencer, the thump was pretty good
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Old 6th November 2009, 16:05   #19
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Originally Posted by pb10gagan View Post
hi reddy,

i dont think thats gonna work.
where did you get the old silencer from? i hope it was not from some outside the service station shop.
get the original that comes from company.
i had also remove the big glass wool one and installed an old silencer, the thump was pretty good

Remove some glass wool from the standard silencer by opening it from the back using a L key and you can tune the thumb. Remove some first and then check the sound till you are satisfied. Do not use a free flow exaust as it causes a lot of vibration.
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Old 6th November 2009, 23:42   #20
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Hi Vamsi

the quality of your thump basically depends on three factors
1. Silencer
2. Carb
3. Type of ignition (contact breaker ignition type produces louder thump)

blocking breather pipe is not something advisable as it can only result in low performance, you can notice a slight increament in thump though

i hope this would help

Sajid
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Old 7th November 2009, 00:00   #21
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hello gordon
there must be 6 wire alternator in your bullet, it has a total of 6 coils, 5 thick copper wire coils are used for lights and battery charging while the one wrapped with yellow tape is for ignition purposes. it has many many turns of thin copper wire which produces high voltage sparks when passed across magnetic field

MINDA, SWISS, SAMRAT, LUCAS, SIL, API are all OEM's and ISO certified manufacturers
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Old 13th November 2009, 19:07   #22
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Default Tyre pressure question

What is the best tyre pressure(psi) for city for MRF 3.5 19 ?
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Old 13th November 2009, 19:58   #23
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Originally Posted by ashokrajagopal View Post
What is the best tyre pressure(psi) for city for MRF 3.5 19 ?
I stick to 20F and 30R. I have stock 3.25 x19 on both. No issues so far- just one puncture in last 12.5k kms and ride is also pliant

-BJ
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Old 15th November 2009, 20:43   #24
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Default chain ?

Cross posting my query at another thread,

Quote:
Now at 13K Kms, my electra's chain is due for replacement. Its stretched out making clanky noises. Did cleaning-relubing etc but no use. RE manual also says to replace chain at 12K kms. Ain't O'ring chains supposed to have better life? mine was cleaned-lubed almost every 2 weeks with WD40 / fresh engine oil.

Mechanic known to me suggests non O-ring type chain (for old bullets but same size sprockets) calling it better in terms of life & runs smoother (less stickiness/ rolls free), no noise etc.

Anyone faced this before, suggest which one to go for - O'ring type or regular.

bye.,
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Old 15th November 2009, 22:19   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashokrajagopal View Post
What is the best tyre pressure(psi) for city for MRF 3.5 19 ?
Manual recommends 20F-30R, I fill 22-32. The ride isn't affected much. I fill 22-32 since the pressure drops during the course of a week.

Cheers,

Jay
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Old 16th November 2009, 11:43   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bj96 View Post
I stick to 20F and 30R. I have stock 3.25 x19 on both. No issues so far- just one puncture in last 12.5k kms and ride is also pliant

-BJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by JayPrashanth View Post
Manual recommends 20F-30R, I fill 22-32. The ride isn't affected much. I fill 22-32 since the pressure drops during the course of a week.

Cheers,

Jay
Thanks guys. Appreciate the answer.
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Old 9th December 2009, 13:31   #27
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Quick question regarding tire pressures: When one says they fill 20/30 psi of pressure in the tires, is that when the tires are still cold, or after they have reached normal operating temperature?

In my car, the sticker clearly states that the pressure is ~28-30 when cold.

I checked it once after a stint on the highway and it was around 40...hence the question above.
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Old 2nd December 2010, 16:14   #28
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Default Engine Noise in RE

I own a RE Electra 2002 model, right now it is running in RD350 carb with increased Jet size. I did this setup just to check the performance and FE of the bull apart from using mikuni's and micarbs. There is no difference due to this change.
But the problem is, I started facing 'wwwoooommming' noise from the engine after it gets hot. This sound pops only when I release the throttle to slowdown and I feel like engine is getting too much pressure. Holding and releasing the clutch repeatedly reduces the pressure and noise to some extent.
I took it to service center and the mechanic told the engine is in perfect condition and no problem with it.

I am bit confused about whether it is because of the changed carb or problem in clutch case. if it is because of the different carb, are we not supposed to use a different carb in RE's apart from the standard Mikuni? Or if it is due to problem in clutch case, then what should be checked first in it?

Someone please throw a light on this problem to get it fixed.
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Old 30th April 2012, 16:32   #29
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Trouble Shooting...full technical support

[quote=Edsel Rulez!;...probably because it gave the petrol a chance to flow into the carb again. But this proved to be a false diagnosis![/QUOTE]

This had happened to me many years ago- thanks for reminding me! I couldnt but agree that this is the issue with the fuel and start-stop problems that the other reader was having.

Vented Fuel Cap or just use someone elses used cap for a few days...

The other thing was a vapour lock developing in the down line and the plastic batla showing fuel...

KD
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Old 30th April 2012, 16:35   #30
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Trouble Shooting...full technical support

Quote:
Originally Posted by GreaseMonk View Post
Quick question regarding tire pressures: When one says they fill 20/30 psi of pressure in the tires, is that when the tires are still cold, or after they have reached normal operating temperature?

In my car, the sticker clearly states that the pressure is ~28-30 when cold.

I checked it once after a stint on the highway and it was around 40...hence the question above.
All pressures are when the tires are cold. Try and fill air within the first Km of starting to ride.

I had read somewhere that air pressure starts to increase by about 1psi per degree C in the tire- so noting 40 after an afternoon sprint on a tar road is very possible.

But remember- all printed air pressures are when COLD.

KD
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