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Old 23rd May 2016, 00:17   #76
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Trouble Shooting...full technical support

If your motorcycle easily starts with the kick starter, that indicates the carburetor and its settings are probably all right.
Direct your attention to the electrical area.

Even though your motorcycle starts easily with the kick starter, that does not mean all is well.

When you are kick starting the motorcycle the full 12.4 volts of power from the battery is available to power the ignition coil. That will create the maximum high voltage for the spark so the engine starts even if there are problems with the spark plugs and the high voltage wiring and spark plug connector.

As your volt/ohm meter demonstrated when you used the electric starter, the system voltage dropped into the 11 volt range. As I said, this is normal but the reduced voltage causes the ignition coil to produced less high voltage for the spark plug.

That's when flaws in the system can become apparent (as is happening with your motorcycle).

Worn spark plugs (as your motorcycle undoubtedly has), poor connections (like your spark plug connector has) and poor connections like your spark plug wires probably have all can keep the spark from occurring in the cylinder. Of course, no spark, no start.

While speaking of connections, it would be good to remove the fuse(s) in the system and to clean off the electrical connectors they plug into. While this may not be needed, some corrosion can reduce the battery voltage going to your ignition coil and other things like the headlight etc.)

As for which spark plug to select, the one on the left (aft looking forward) is the primary plug.
That said, I think you should change both spark plugs to new ones.
The spark plug gap should be 0.58-0.65 mm (.023-.026 inch). The new spark plugs are usually close to the right gap but it is worth checking before installing them.
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Old 23rd May 2016, 11:07   #77
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Originally Posted by ArizonaJim View Post
If your motorcycle easily starts with the kick starter, that indicates the carburetor and its settings are probably all right.
Direct your attention to the electrical area.

Even though your motorcycle starts easily with the kick starter, that does not mean all is well.

When you are kick starting the motorcycle the full 12.4 volts of power from the battery is available to power the ignition coil. That will create the maximum high voltage for the spark so the engine starts even if there are problems with the spark plugs and the high voltage wiring and spark plug connector.

As your volt/ohm meter demonstrated when you used the electric starter, the system voltage dropped into the 11 volt range. As I said, this is normal but the reduced voltage causes the ignition coil to produced less high voltage for the spark plug.

That's when flaws in the system can become apparent (as is happening with your motorcycle).

Worn spark plugs (as your motorcycle undoubtedly has), poor connections (like your spark plug connector has) and poor connections like your spark plug wires probably have all can keep the spark from occurring in the cylinder. Of course, no spark, no start.

While speaking of connections, it would be good to remove the fuse(s) in the system and to clean off the electrical connectors they plug into. While this may not be needed, some corrosion can reduce the battery voltage going to your ignition coil and other things like the headlight etc.)

As for which spark plug to select, the one on the left (aft looking forward) is the primary plug.
That said, I think you should change both spark plugs to new ones.
The spark plug gap should be 0.58-0.65 mm (.023-.026 inch). The new spark plugs are usually close to the right gap but it is worth checking before installing them.
I am really astonished to see the confidence with which you are saying the things, as if each and every part in known very well to you ...

N guess what , it worked ... Yesterday evening I brought a new Spark Plug, initially checked the Spark by plugging the new spark plug but it dint gave a bright blue spark, it gave intermittent very light yellow spark , so I was like this is not going to work.

But then removed the old spark plug, placed the new one and first I did kick start and then next Electric Start and the engine came into life..

I dont have words to express my happiness and thanks to you and BJ for your right on the spot analysis. Kudos to you guys.

Now the Electric Start is working after I drive the bike for some time. So last two days have brought a lot of understanding between me and my bike.
Once the small black ground wire was properly connected, even the ammeter now stays between the 0 and extreme + .

I also feel sad that the mechanics in here do not diagnose the problem completely and try to shift the problem to some one elses' like battery of brush boxkit etc.

So to sum up my expenses, I spent close to 2000 bucks for brush boxkit, ammeter , mechanic and finally a 80 Rs spark plug did the work. But the knowledge obtained in the process was worth each and every penny.

Now I plan to change the other spark plug as well and the wiring to the plugs, changing the battery is next in line.
Do I need to check and repair/replace ignition coil, where is it located and how much impact will it have ?

There are two more separate issues in the bike which I will ask you subsequently.

Really a grand thanks for your support and guidance.

Last edited by nityamishra14 : 23rd May 2016 at 11:32. Reason: Adding one more point.
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Old 23rd May 2016, 12:17   #78
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Jumping in cause I desperately need some guidance.
I am suddenly plagued with an irritating problem myself.
I own a 2004 Royal Enfield Thunderbird AVL 350 and have had a trouble free 11 odd years riding the bike. About a year ago, upon the insistence of my mechanic, I got my head changed as I persistently had problems for a few months. I decided to bite the bullet and change my carb as well. Everything was fine and dandy post that until about a month ago when I noticed my bike randomly missfire a few times. Seemed like it was losing electrical connectivity or fuel. Upon checking all the normal symptoms out like overflow from the carb, the spark plug, the fuel tap etc, I decided to take it to the mechanic for further investigation.
In the last week or so, we've changed the entire electrical wiring, barring the ones coming out from the clutch cover to the battery and the meters, we've replaced the pick up coil, the flusher (I think that's what its called under the seat bootstrapped next to the fuse), the battery (needed replacing anyways), the CDI kit, the rectifier, etc and yet the problem doesn't seem to go away. My mechanic is also perplexed. He's a good guy with many years of experience under his belt. He even was modest enough to ask some of his friends who are also old timers who didn't seem to know whatsup. He even took apart the carb to see if there's anything stuck in any valve or in the float pin and put it back together. He confessed to me that he noticed my 2 year old carb has a slider thats worn out and that needs replacing. Is this normal? I mean, my first carb lasted me over 10 years. Thoughts?

Its difficult to diagnose because the problem happens randomly. Bike starts on first kick, even on a cold engine. If i am not mistaken, the AVL CDI engines dont rely too much on the electrical side of things other than for lights and indicators and the spark from the CDI unit. The bike runs fine except sometimes when it feels like its switching off / losing power / etc for a second or two. Then runs normally till it happens again. Repeat.

Any ideas or things I should check? I know its quite difficult to tell especially without looking at the bike. After my last visit to the mech which was yesterday, I noticed significant loss in power and pick up on the bike. Its definitely noticeable. Upon closing up the air intake and changing the tuning of the carb, its slightly better, but its still a significant drop in pick up. The bike still loses power intermittently too. Help!
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Old 23rd May 2016, 17:13   #79
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In the last week or so, we've changed the entire electrical wiring, barring the ones coming out from the clutch cover to the battery and the meters, we've replaced the pick up coil, the flusher (I think that's what its called under the seat bootstrapped next to the fuse), the battery (needed replacing anyways), the CDI kit, the rectifier, etc and yet the problem doesn't seem to go away.
Looks like electrical parts are taken care of with the list of parts you've listed. One question why was the entire wiring harness and CDI assembly replaced? I too have a 2004 AVL Tbird running on original electricals and CDI hence asking.
Quote:
My mechanic is also perplexed. He even took apart the carb to see if there's anything stuck in any valve or in the float pin and put it back together. He confessed to me that he noticed my 2 year old carb has a slider thats worn out and that needs replacing. Is this normal? I mean, my first carb lasted me over 10 years. Thoughts?
Which carb have you fitted on your Tbird there are two types one is the original Mikuni CV carb and other is a BS26 or 29 carb seen on Pulsar 150 and Pulsar 180. The latter two carbs are cheaper to buy than the OEM RE AVL carb, hence are chosen by mechanics without any thoughts to aftereffects whatsoever. Kindly check if yours was replaced with the OEM AVL carb. From the other symptoms mentioned it looks like the fuelling issue wherein the air fuel mixture is not proper resulting in loss of power and switching off. It can also be because the carb is running too lean and not sapping the engine of required fuel resulting in shutting off randomly.
Quote:
Any ideas or things I should check? I know its quite difficult to tell especially without looking at the bike. After my last visit to the mech which was yesterday, I noticed significant loss in power and pick up on the bike. Its definitely noticeable. Upon closing up the air intake and changing the tuning of the carb, its slightly better, but its still a significant drop in pick up. The bike still loses power intermittently too. Help!
Apart from the carb as I mentioned above, do check when the clutch plates were replaced. Worn out clutch plates wreak a havoc with power and pickup besides fuelling.
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Old 23rd May 2016, 17:24   #80
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Default Re: Royal Enfield Trouble Shooting...full technical support

Hi Navin
Thanks for writing back.
Quote:
Looks like electrical parts are taken care of with the list of parts you've listed. One question why was the entire wiring harness and CDI assembly replaced? I too have a 2004 AVL Tbird running on original electricals and CDI hence asking.
Honestly, I didnt want to change the electricals. But there was way too many things that we tried and nothing was resulting in any concrete fix for this issue. Thats why i insisted that we swap the electricals too just to see if they made any difference. The stock CDI was replaced a while ago by another mechanic who did so without evening checking with me when I left the bike with him for a quick service.

Quote:
Which carb have you fitted on your Tbird there are two types one is the original Mikuni CV carb and other is a BS26 or 29 carb seen on Pulsar 150 and Pulsar 180.
I am pretty sure its the BS26 scored from Ram Motors. He didnt have the OEM AVL Carb when I wanted to swap it out during the head replacement.

My clutch plates were swapped out a while ago. They aren't worn out for sure, but I'll have them checked none the less. Thanks for the feedback.

On a side note, I do have my original OEM AVL carb with me. Do you think it makes sense to revert back to it to see if it makes any difference? I can't recall the jet's name, but I remember I had to get it removed by a turner since it was jammed in there on the old carb, but barring that, never really had any issues with it. Would love to hear your thoughts.
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Old 23rd May 2016, 17:43   #81
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Honestly, I didnt want to change the electricals. But there was way too many things that we tried and nothing was resulting in any concrete fix for this issue. Thats why i insisted that we swap the electricals too just to see if they made any difference. The stock CDI was replaced a while ago by another mechanic who did so without evening checking with me when I left the bike with him for a quick service.
Mate looks like your mech did a lot of permutations and combinations with the electricals like cutting and joining stuff. RE electricals anyways are not very abuse friendly hence cutting wires does creates problem, if its stock and never cut then it holds up well. Now this is interesting about changing the CDI without your knowledge. Mate the OEM CDI unit is like a treasure that is sought out by mechs and others as a replacement on their worn out CDI units. Was your CDI unit functional or was it changed just because the mech thought so? Also did he fit the OEM CDI unit from RE? Coincidentally both the CDI unit and Carb of AVL's are sought after items by mechs.
Quote:
I am pretty sure its the BS26 scored from Ram Motors. He didnt have the OEM AVL Carb when I wanted to swap it out during the head replacement.
There you have it mate, I was bang on about the mech using the Pulsar carb which they "think" is a replacement for OEM Tbird AVL carb. Both motorcycles are different and are tuned differently. Even though the carb looks the same there is a difference in fuelling and tuning in both of them. The reason mechs go for Pulsar carbs is because they are cheaper and readily available, but they don't realize the problems they throw up due to compatibility issues.
Quote:
My clutch plates were swapped out a while ago. They aren't worn out for sure, but I'll have them checked none the less.

Quote:
On a side note, I do have my original OEM AVL carb with me. Do you think it makes sense to revert back to it to see if it makes any difference? I can't recall the jet's name, but I remember I had to get it removed by a turner since it was jammed in there on the old carb, but barring that, never really had any issues with it. Would love to hear your thoughts.
Mate try to repair your OEM AVL carb through an expert who repairs carbs. Try fitting it back and see the difference. If possible hunt for a new OEM AVL carb if the repair doesn't work.
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Old 23rd May 2016, 18:07   #82
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Hey Navin
Well, it definitely looks like a serious concern.

Quote:
Was your CDI unit functional or was it changed just because the mech thought so? Also did he fit the OEM CDI unit from RE? Coincidentally both the CDI unit and Carb of AVL's are sought after items by mechs.
From what I can tell and remember cause this was a while ago, the CDI unit did start to develop some issues. Cant really recall whether it was fully functional or not, but I was advised to get it changed none the less. That's when we swapped it out. I know I have an original CDI from Nippon on the bike now cause I got one from this new mechanic who had one in spare when someone got their bike converted to the old system (Governor based). So it cant be the CDI.

Quote:
Mate looks like your mech did a lot of permutations and combinations with the electricals like cutting and joining stuff. RE electricals anyways are not very abuse friendly hence cutting wires does creates problem, if its stock and never cut then it holds up well.
I stood with him yesterday when we redid the wiring and I know for a fact it was a packed piece from Swiss (the delhi company i think). Everything connected up without any tampering except for the main wires from the RPM meter. Those had a male connector retrofitted to them by the previous messed up mechanic that needed to be matched. So we matched colors and connected the dots. I am planning on redoing that wiring with a soldering iron myself if it helps.

Quote:
Mate try to repair your OEM AVL carb through an expert who repairs carbs. Try fitting it back and see the difference. If possible hunt for a new OEM AVL carb if the repair doesn't work.
Do you have a recommendation for a good place to get this repaired? Anthony took a crack at fixing it once, but I dont think he had the time to see it through and through. Anyone else you have in mind?

Also, any one else in the suburbs that you recommend I show the bike to for an opinion? I think i am beating around the bush going back to the same mechanic. I think its time for a second opinion
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Old 24th May 2016, 09:51   #83
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Do you have a recommendation for a good place to get this repaired? Anthony took a crack at fixing it once, but I dont think he had the time to see it through and through. Anyone else you have in mind?
Mate I would suggest you to first get the carb sorted out as you have changed all the electricals. Anthony is an old hand and an expert nevertheless I will pm you the details of another mechanic. I got the carb of one of my old CI's serviced from him and it works like a charm.
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Old 24th May 2016, 12:49   #84
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Seemed like it was losing electrical connectivity or fuel.
This I feel is due to a spark plug being weak or not sparking.


Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkbait View Post
the flusher (I think that's what its called under the seat bootstrapped next to the fuse),
It is the 'flasher' which is what makes the turn signals blink.

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Originally Posted by sharkbait View Post
Any ideas or things I should check? I know its quite difficult to tell especially without looking at the bike. After my last visit to the mech which was yesterday, I noticed significant loss in power and pick up on the bike. Its definitely noticeable. Upon closing up the air intake and changing the tuning of the carb, its slightly better, but its still a significant drop in pick up. The bike still loses power intermittently too. Help!
Would suggest starting off with the simplest part that can affect the smooth running and go up. Check if the fuel filter is cleaned out and also as Navin mentioned, revert back to the original carb. A Carb is made up of parts and I haven't come across an instance in 1,09,000 kms on my CDI Bullet in which I had to replace it or replace any parts in it.

Last edited by tharian : 24th May 2016 at 12:52.
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Old 24th May 2016, 13:18   #85
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Originally Posted by ArizonaJim View Post
If your motorcycle easily starts with the kick starter, that indicates the carburetor and its settings are probably all right.
Direct your attention to the electrical area.

Even though your motorcycle starts easily with the kick starter, that does not mean all is well.

When you are kick starting the motorcycle the full 12.4 volts of power from the battery is available to power the ignition coil. That will create the maximum high voltage for the spark so the engine starts even if there are problems with the spark plugs and the high voltage wiring and spark plug connector.

As your volt/ohm meter demonstrated when you used the electric starter, the system voltage dropped into the 11 volt range. As I said, this is normal but the reduced voltage causes the ignition coil to produced less high voltage for the spark plug.

That's when flaws in the system can become apparent (as is happening with your motorcycle).

Worn spark plugs (as your motorcycle undoubtedly has), poor connections (like your spark plug connector has) and poor connections like your spark plug wires probably have all can keep the spark from occurring in the cylinder. Of course, no spark, no start.

While speaking of connections, it would be good to remove the fuse(s) in the system and to clean off the electrical connectors they plug into. While this may not be needed, some corrosion can reduce the battery voltage going to your ignition coil and other things like the headlight etc.)

As for which spark plug to select, the one on the left (aft looking forward) is the primary plug.
That said, I think you should change both spark plugs to new ones.
The spark plug gap should be 0.58-0.65 mm (.023-.026 inch). The new spark plugs are usually close to the right gap but it is worth checking before installing them.
The bike is working on Electric Start but not always.

Hence what else should be done next. I am planning to change the spark plug wires but I am not sure how are they connected (haven't been able to remove the Fuel Tank Yet) . Is there a connector which splits a single wire into two spark plug wires(high tension wires).

Or is there any other electrical component between the starter and the spark plugs, what is a ignition coil, should it be looked into, where is it located.

I plan to rectify all other components before changing the battery, to test them in limited voltage source.

Are there any other electrical components in the line which is used for Ignition.

Is there any kind of document available for complete electrical wiring and components in the New Electra UCE.

Really appreciate the help.
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Old 24th May 2016, 14:35   #86
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Originally Posted by navin_v8 View Post
Mate I would suggest you to first get the carb sorted out as you have changed all the electricals. Anthony is an old hand and an expert nevertheless I will pm you the details of another mechanic. I got the carb of one of my old CI's serviced from him and it works like a charm.
Thanks Navin. Will wait for those contact deets. Like I said, i think its time for a second opinion.

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This I feel is due to a spark plug being weak or not sparking.
Checked the spark plug and also swapped out the spark plug for a spare one and checked the connectivity and it looked fine. Also noticed the spark was blue, like it should be. Don't know if that makes any difference.

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It is the 'flasher' which is what makes the turn signals blink.
Thanks for the clarification. Dont know if that had any significance, but that was also swapped out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tharian View Post
Would suggest starting off with the simplest part that can affect the smooth running and go up. Check if the fuel filter is cleaned out and also as Navin mentioned, revert back to the original carb. A Carb is made up of parts and I haven't come across an instance in 1,09,000 kms on my CDI Bullet in which I had to replace it or replace any parts in it.
I have similar mileage on my bike and have been taken for a ride it looks like, quite literally. I went by the mechanics advice to swap out the carb. Maybe its time to get it fixed. Any leads would help considering I've only been in Mumbai for a few years now.

Thanks
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Old 25th May 2016, 00:10   #87
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The bike is working on Electric Start but not always.

Hence what else should be done next. I am planning to change the spark plug wires but I am not sure how are they connected (haven't been able to remove the Fuel Tank Yet) . Is there a connector which splits a single wire into two spark plug wires(high tension wires).

Or is there any other electrical component between the starter and the spark plugs, what is a ignition coil, should it be looked into, where is it located.

I plan to rectify all other components before changing the battery, to test them in limited voltage source.

Are there any other electrical components in the line which is used for Ignition.

Is there any kind of document available for complete electrical wiring and components in the New Electra UCE.

Really appreciate the help.
"The bike is working on Electric Start but not always. "

This is not specific enough.
It could mean the starter motor doesn't run at all.
The starter motor runs but the engine does not crank.
The starter motor runs and the engine cranks but the engine doesn't start.

Most likely it is failing to fire while the motor is cranking it. If this is the case I would suspect the spark plug cap (connector) as the cause.

" I am planning to change the spark plug wires but I am not sure how are they connected (haven't been able to remove the Fuel Tank Yet) . Is there a connector which splits a single wire into two spark plug wires(high tension wires)."

I am not in India and I haven't seen how the dual spark system is set up.
There could be two ignition coils, one for each spark plug or, there could be one ignition coil with a high tension wire for each spark plug.

These high tension wires could screw into the ignition coil allowing you to just replace the wires or, they could be permanently bonded into the coil(s).
If they are a permanent part of the coil, you will need to replace the coil to replace the wires. (Perhaps someone familiar with the RE Dual Spark can enlighten both of us?)

The ignition coil is a transformer that changes the 12 volts from the battery or alternator to over 25,000 volts so it can create the spark at the spark plug.
It may be round or rectangular. One (or more) of the high tension wires connected to the spark plug(s) will go directly to it.
The ignition coil is usually located under the fuel tank.


"Are there any other electrical components in the line which is used for Ignition."


There are several other things that control the ignition on the UCE engine.
There is a sensor that determines the position of the crankshaft.
A sensor that determines the position of the throttle
The computer that determines the correct time for the spark to occur and then causes the ignition coil to "fire".
The wiring harness, ignition switch, kill switch, fuses....

"Is there any kind of document available for complete electrical wiring and components in the New Electra UCE. "

There are a number of electrical wiring diagrams available on the internet.
Just be sure the one you use is for a UCE. Wiring for the older Iron Barrel and AVL is different.

These wiring diagrams are not always correct and they often don't show some of the electrical components that may be on your motorcycle at all.

Use them as a general guideline but not as gospel.

Last edited by ArizonaJim : 25th May 2016 at 00:13.
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Old 29th May 2016, 20:24   #88
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Just following up with all the help I received.
Got some time off on the weekend so attacked the bike again.
Turns out, almost all issues that persisted on my bike are gone, except for the jerky ride. Currently I own two carbs. One original UCAL Mikuni and one BS26 bought from town somewhere. Turns out, both my carbs have similar issues. Their slider seems to be worn out from the inside. I can see the entire shaft metal turning almost white. The rest of the carb seems perfectly fine. Just the slider's on both carbs have very similar issues with the slider.
My mechanic and I both decided that it was time to get the carbs fixed. I was leaning towards getting the original UCAL Mikuni fixed more than the BS26 thats lasted me less than 3 years to date. I called up all the regular vendors for the slider replacement parts. They all had it and it costs some 925 bucks.

Need some advice guys. Do you recommend going ahead with the replacement slider? Should I do it on the UCAL or the replacement BS26?

Also, what causes the slider to be worn out like this? Seems odd. I checked the flange cover and it didn't have any signs of wear and tear, but I'll probably replace that as well. Could it be an underlying issue with the engine that we are having to mix air/petrol the way we are to ensure that the pick up doesn't drop? Or is it just air being sucked in that causes this? Any suggestions?
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Old 30th May 2016, 17:20   #89
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Turns out, almost all issues that persisted on my bike are gone, except for the jerky ride. Currently I own two carbs. One original UCAL Mikuni and one BS26 bought from town somewhere. Turns out, both my carbs have similar issues. Their slider seems to be worn out from the inside. I can see the entire shaft metal turning almost white. The rest of the carb seems perfectly fine. Just the slider's on both carbs have very similar issues with the slider.
sharkbait mate I tried sending you a pm but wasn't allowed as you are still a newbie. Share your email id with me so that I can send you the details. I wanted to ask one question. Do you always fill up from a particular petrol pump or keep changing? Why I am asking this is because it happened with one of my CI's when it was filled with adulterated fuel from a petrol pump. The motorcycle started giving issues and one fine day me and my mech pulled out the carb and saw white/ivory colour deposits being coated on the insides of the carb. Once that petrol was drained I went back to my trusted petrol pump from where I fill regularly and the issue got resolved. Water inside the fuel tank also cannot be ruled out, culprit is pressure washing. Second it can be due to your carb not tuned correctly. Adjust the air and fuel screw correctly to achieve best results.
Quote:
Also, what causes the slider to be worn out like this? Seems odd. I checked the flange cover and it didn't have any signs of wear and tear, but I'll probably replace that as well. Could it be an underlying issue with the engine that we are having to mix air/petrol the way we are to ensure that the pick up doesn't drop? Or is it just air being sucked in that causes this? Any suggestions?
Mate my suggestion to you is to retain the OEM carb and repair it. Get it tuned correctly and make sure the jet sizes being used are proper size neither small nor big. Do Not interchange the parts between the OEM carb and Pulsar carb. Hope this helps.

Last edited by navin_v8 : 30th May 2016 at 17:37.
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Old 30th May 2016, 17:40   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navin_v8 View Post
sharkbait mate I tried sending you a pm but wasn't allowed as you are still a newbie. Share your email id with me so that I can send you the details. I wanted to ask one question. Do you always fill up from a particular petrol pump or keep changing? Why I am asking this is because it happened with one of my CI's when it was filled with adulterated fuel from a petrol pump. The motorcycle started giving issues and one fine day me and my mech pulled out the carb and saw white/ivory colour deposits being coated on the insides of the carb. Once that petrol was drained I went back to my trusted petrol pump from where I fill regularly and the issue got resolved. Water inside the fuel tank also cannot be ruled out, culprit is pressure washing. Second it can be due to your carb running too lean. Adjust the air and fuel screw correctly to achieve best results.
Hey navin. Thanks for writing back man. I was wondering why I didn't receive the private message and didn't want to persist with you for it either. But that explains a lot on why I haven't received it yet. You can email me on digitalmachineroom at gmail dot com. Regarding the petrol, I have always filled petrol at this Indianoil petrol pump at the corner of Tulip Star on Juhu Tara Road. Atleast for the last 7 odd years that I've been in Mumbai. Maybe its time to swap to a different pump? Regarding water in the tank, its highly unlikely that there's water leaking in. To avoid rust, I got my tank coated with an epoxy coating as well. But yeah, both sliders on both carbs have very similar white markings on them. Regarding it running too lean, is there anyway a novice like me can check to figure what tuning my mechanic has set it to? Dont know if there's a way to tell, which is why I wanted that second opinion from another mechanic.

Quote:
Originally Posted by navin_v8 View Post
Mate my suggestion to you is to retain the OEM carb and repair it. Get it tuned correctly and make sure the jet sizes being used are proper size neither small nor big. Do Not interchange the parts between the OEM carb and Pulsar carb. Hope this helps.
I am planning on procuring that slider replacement part which is available at multiple stores. Once I receive the same, I will look at fixing the OEM carb with the new slider and will put it on the bike and see how she rides.

Thus far, to date, I've changed the clutch plates, electrical wiring, pick up coil, spark plug, et all. I am perplexed this time. Never have I been hit with a problem for so long. But it all seems to be pointing towards the carb itself. Meh!
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