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Old 4th March 2015, 19:52   #61
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Default re: Royal Enfield - Troubleshooting and technical support thread

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Originally Posted by rbppt View Post
Bullet Model : 2009, Electra 5S (gearshift on left side), CI engine.
I looked up the part catalogue for retired models. You have not mentioned, but, I am guessing yours is without ES, unlike mine, and it has different part numbers. They are as follows:

Banjo Washer copper- part#: 144593
Banjo Bolt- part#: 144591

You may try this online site (I have no personal experience though): http://www.jainenfield.com/cat/piston.html#barrel

-BJ
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Old 9th March 2015, 11:08   #62
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Default re: Royal Enfield - Troubleshooting and technical support thread

No, mine's with ES.

I can't spot ES for Electra anywhere in the chart. I checked in the Panjim showroom too, but their spare parts office didn't have the bolt I was looking for. Now I'll have to wait till someone can source it for me.
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Old 10th March 2015, 03:10   #63
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Default re: Royal Enfield - Troubleshooting and technical support thread

As I said before, use the two hole bolt banjo bolt.

It is more than enough to accommodate the oil flow.
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Old 10th March 2015, 14:48   #64
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Default re: Royal Enfield - Troubleshooting and technical support thread

Hi Sajid,
A nice, worthy new thread there.

I have a query too. I have the new TBTS 500.
1) Rear Break: Very often, the rear disc seems to be have some friction with something. Whenever I take it to the service center, they say it must be dust, and use a spray to clean. But the issue seems to occur too frequently. Is there a permanent/ long-term fix to this?

2) Silencer: For a long time now, I want to change the silencer to a better thumper. Am looking at the wild boar thumper or the GHC thumper (which claims to add about 3BHP to the output. Any expert advice there?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 10th March 2015, 15:49   #65
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Default re: Royal Enfield - Troubleshooting and technical support thread

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1) Rear Break: Very often, the rear disc seems to be have some friction with something. Whenever I take it to the service center, they say it must be dust, and use a spray to clean. But the issue seems to occur too frequently. Is there a permanent/ long-term fix to this?
The brake pad of a disc brake setup will always be in contact with the disc. Some dirt might have got inbetween the pad and disc and hence you might be getting some rubbing sound. Get the pad cleaned and the sound will go. If, by friction, you mean that the rear tyre is not rotating freely at all then you might have to get the system checked.

Quote:
2) Silencer: For a long time now, I want to change the silencer to a better thumper. Am looking at the wild boar thumper or the GHC thumper (which claims to add about 3BHP to the output.
It takes more than a an exhaust to pump up the BHP figure to what you have mentioned. These are all marketing gimmicks and please dont fall for that. The only guaranteed advantage is your aural pleasure.

Last edited by man_of_steel : 10th March 2015 at 16:01.
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Old 10th March 2015, 17:02   #66
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Default re: Royal Enfield - Troubleshooting and technical support thread

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As I said before, use the two hole bolt banjo bolt.

It is more than enough to accommodate the oil flow.
I don't think I can do that. Both bolts vary in dimensions. I had tried fitting the two holed bolt, but it didn't fit as snugly (far from it) as the three-holed one.
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Old 11th March 2015, 03:50   #67
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Default re: Royal Enfield - Troubleshooting and technical support thread

After doing a bit of digging at Hitchcock's web site

http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com...ne_Parts_Books

I find that the Iron Barrel uses a Hitchcock part number 144591 for both upper banjo bolts.

Adding to the confusion, the old 2003 Iron Barrel called a "65" because of its 5 speed transmission uses Hitchcock part number 145241 for the upper banjo bolts.

The Lean Burn AVL uses a Hitchcock part number 500624 for both upper banjo bolts and Hitchcock part number 510639 for a banjo bolt at the lower end of the oil supply tube.

With several different part numbers, indicating there are several different banjo bolts it would be a good idea to keep your broken bolt in a plastic bag so you can take it with you while visiting various places.

If there are any "recycling" places which have crashed motorcycles you might try going to them to see if they don't have a matching bolt.
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Old 11th March 2015, 14:15   #68
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Default re: Royal Enfield - Troubleshooting and technical support thread

Yeah. There's a lot of confusion it seems. Even the folks at RE seemed to be confused about my query.

I had looked it up in the catalogue of spares for the retired models and the required part is either one of the following (whichever's three-holed) - mostly the second one, since that was the only one that claimed it fit on models with ES.

1. 144591 - Banjo Union Bolt (Feed)
2. 560164/A - Banjo Union Bolt (M8 x 1)
3. 510639/A - Banjo Bolt Feed
4. 500624/B - Feed Bolt

I'll see if someone in one of the big cities can source it for me.
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Old 20th May 2016, 23:42   #69
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Default re: Royal Enfield - Troubleshooting and technical support thread

Royal Enfield Electra 2010 UCE Electric Start Problem

Hi All,

I have a Electra 2010 UCE model. The Electric Start is giving issues since a long . Changed Carbon in the starter twice till now and it never worked for more than a month. And this time the electric start is not working at all.
Various mechanics, various suggestions but no resolution. The mechanic says battery is faulty, battery guy says battery is OK but the charging is not proper. At high RPMs the ammeter needle goes to extreme + (right) and never comes back to middle. Mechanic is saying it should stay in between the extreme ends. Well that is one part.
The problem with starter, earlier if i press the starter it use to make a short 'chliq' kind of sound and then nothing. Last Saturday showed it to a mechanic who suggested changing the carbon,. After it was done the starter started but the bike did not. The starter fired, made some noise like it's trying but the engine did not start. The mechanic said the battery is faulty.
Thereafter looked on some you tube videos and tried on my own to rectify the problem .brought a Meco Multimeter to check the alternator output, rectifier input and output but all seems quite close to normal values. Well don't have correct values for them so can't verify yet.
Need to know if someone knows all about electrical in the new UCE models or some good mechanic in Mumbai/ Navi Mumbai having complete knowledge of the electricals.


2 years back I have changed the sprag clutch and the ES is not working since then. Where to look and what to look.

Any suggestions please.
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Old 21st May 2016, 00:48   #70
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Default re: Royal Enfield - Troubleshooting and technical support thread

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Originally Posted by nityamishra14 View Post
Royal Enfield Electra 2010 UCE Electric Start Problem

Hi All,

I have a Electra 2010 UCE model. The Electric Start is giving issues since a long . Changed Carbon in the starter twice till now and it never worked for more than a month. And this time the electric start is not working at all.
...
The problem with starter, earlier if i press the starter it use to make a short 'chliq' kind of sound and then nothing. Last Saturday showed it to a mechanic who suggested changing the carbon,. After it was done the starter started but the bike did not. The starter fired, made some noise like it's trying but the engine did not start. The mechanic said the battery is faulty.
...
Any suggestions please.
Where to begin??

First, I don't know exactly what you mean by "changed carbon...".
If you had someone replace the carbon brushes, IMO, you wasted some money. Typically the carbon brushes inside the starter motor will last for years and years. They almost never wear out, even on high mileage motorcycles or automobiles.

The most likely reason for a electric starter not to work is the battery charge is low.

Batteries have a limited life even when they are properly taken care of and if no care has been given to it (like keeping the fluid level above the plates) they can easily fail within a year.

If your battery is at the end of its life, recharging it will only work for a short time. The only good way to fix an old battery is to replace it with a new one.

As you have a volt/ohm meter to test this, set it in the DC voltage position and check the reading between the battery + and - terminal.
It should be around 12.7 volts for a fully charged battery without the engine running. Any reading below 12 volts will be too low to operate the starter motor.

With the engine running at a good speed like it would when your riding over 60 kmph in top gear, you should see a voltage at the battery terminals of 14.3 to 14.7.
At an idle speed the voltage may drop down to the same amount as it has with the engine shut off. (Royal Enfields rarely charge the battery at idle speeds.)

If you hear a clicking coming from the area behind the engine, that is the starter solenoid operating. If the battery power is low the solenoid will activate but as soon as it turns on the large amount of power the starter motor needs the voltage in the entire system will drop. The reduced voltage won't be enough to keep the solenoid engaged so it will stop working.
As soon as it stops, the system voltage goes back up and the solenoid reconnects the starter motor with the battery. That once again will cause the voltage in the system to drop......
Typically, the sound when this happens is a, "click..click...click...click..."

Next, the battery terminal connections where the heavy wires connect should be inspected to make sure they do not have any corrosion. This requires removing the cable connectors.
When removing the battery cables, ALWAYS disconnect the negative (-) wire first. When reconnecting the battery wires, ALWAYS connect the negative wire last.
While the cables are disconnected, use something to scrape off any slight corrosion that may have developed there. Then, reconnect the wires.

While you have the negative (-) cable disconnected, pry the rubber cover which covers the connection between the wires and the metal connector.
There are two wires there. One is a large wire that grounds the starter motor. The other smaller wire serves to provide the grounding for all of the other electrical things on your motorcycle.

If this small wire is broken or is no longer connected, that can prevent the starter motor from operating.
How? Because if that small wire is making a poor connection, the starter solenoid can fail to operate.

This small wire coming loose or breaking is a VERY common problem we have seen on the Royal Enfield UCE's here in the USA. It is the first thing to check when something electrical is not working.

Because the small ground wire can sometimes make connection and sometimes not, this is one of those, "Everything works one minute and nothing works the next." cases.

As you already know, the transmission must be in neutral with the neutral light glowing OR, the clutch lever must be fully pulled in to the grip when you try using the electric starter. The RUN/KILL switch must also be in the RUN position.
If one of these conditions is not met, the motor will not be activated.

The bottom line is, if your battery is in good condition and fully charged, and the wiring is properly connected without corrosion or breaks in it, the starter motor should work. It may not start the engine but the engine should be cranked over repeatedly without faltering.

Last edited by ArizonaJim : 21st May 2016 at 00:55.
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Old 21st May 2016, 19:02   #71
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Default re: Royal Enfield - Troubleshooting and technical support thread

Hi Jim,

I have no words to express my thanks for your in-depth response to my queries.

I spent the whole day today trying to figure out the problem based on your suggestions. Although did not succeed though learnt a lot in the process.

So I will try to mention my findings :

Quote:
Originally Posted by ArizonaJim View Post

Where to begin??

First, I don't know exactly what you mean by "changed carbon...".
If you had someone replace the carbon brushes, IMO, you wasted some money. Typically the carbon brushes inside the starter motor will last for years and years. They almost never wear out, even on high mileage motorcycles or automobiles.
Yes I guess so. it was a brush boxkit assembly (attached in the pic below). My bad. When you dont have any clue about the things you got to follow the Mechanic's advice


Quote:
Originally Posted by ArizonaJim View Post

The most likely reason for a electric starter not to work is the battery charge is low.

Batteries have a limited life even when they are properly taken care of and if no care has been given to it (like keeping the fluid level above the plates) they can easily fail within a year.

If your battery is at the end of its life, recharging it will only work for a short time. The only good way to fix an old battery is to replace it with a new one.

As you have a volt/ohm meter to test this, set it in the DC voltage position and check the reading between the battery + and - terminal.
It should be around 12.7 volts for a fully charged battery without the engine running. Any reading below 12 volts will be too low to operate the starter motor.
Normal Voltage in my battery is around 12.4V , if I start it for some time and then switch it off , it becomes 12.6V. I am attaching a video of the sound that I am getting when I try to switch on the bike through ES.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ArizonaJim View Post
With the engine running at a good speed like it would when your riding over 60 kmph in top gear, you should see a voltage at the battery terminals of 14.3 to 14.7.
At full throttle the voltage at the battery terminals reach a maximum of 13.9V.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ArizonaJim View Post
While you have the negative (-) cable disconnected, pry the rubber cover which covers the connection between the wires and the metal connector.
There are two wires there. One is a large wire that grounds the starter motor. The other smaller wire serves to provide the grounding for all of the other electrical things on your motorcycle.

If this small wire is broken or is no longer connected, that can prevent the starter motor from operating.
How? Because if that small wire is making a poor connection, the starter solenoid can fail to operate.
The little black wire in my case was almost broken from a joint, i remover the plastic connector and directly joined the wire. (Attached)

Quote:
Originally Posted by ArizonaJim View Post

The bottom line is, if your battery is in good condition and fully charged, and the wiring is properly connected without corrosion or breaks in it, the starter motor should work. It may not start the engine but the engine should be cranked over repeatedly without faltering.
I guess this is what is happening in my case, the starter motor seems to work but it can not start the engine.

Next thing i need to try is to start from a New Battery.

Request you to go through the video and advise what should be the next things i should do.





Thanks a lot in advance.
Attached Thumbnails
Royal Enfield - Troubleshooting and technical support thread-img_20160514_143049.jpg  

Royal Enfield - Troubleshooting and technical support thread-img_20160521_130210.jpg  

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Old 21st May 2016, 19:54   #72
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Default re: Royal Enfield - Troubleshooting and technical support thread

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...
Request you to go through the video and advise what should be the next things i should do.
Sounds like a weak battery to me. Fully charge the battery and try. Also, check for spark plug/ actual sparking and you have adequate fuel coming through the fuel pipe.

-BJ
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Old 21st May 2016, 23:39   #73
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Default re: Royal Enfield - Troubleshooting and technical support thread

nityamishra14
In the video, the starter seems to be working as it should.
The battery voltage seems to be in the good range.
The drop in voltage while it is cranking is normal.

It is good that you found and repaired the weak connection at the small grounding wire but that is not the place where we have found problems.
In the picture, notice that the small wire goes into a cover just to the left of your finger.
That is where the problem sometimes happens.

While we are talking about that photo, notice the corrosion on both battery wires and on the battery terminals. That should be cleaned up.
You might also want to apply a solution of water and baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) to neutralize any acid that may be causing the corrosion.

As for the reason your motorcycle is not starting there could be dozens of reasons.
Do as bj96 suggests and check the spark plug to see if it is firing. (I assume the spark plug has been changed recently. If it hasn't, that is the first thing to do.)

If you have a spare spark plug, you can just remove the high tension spark plug wire from the plug in the engine and plug in your spare spark plug. Be sure that the metal body of the spark plug is contacting the engine. Then, crank the engine with the electric starter motor. You should see a nice, bright blue spark leap from the center electrode to the grounding electrode on the spark plugs tip.

If the spark seems to be weak with just a tiny little spark jumping the gap I would suspect either the spark plug cab that plugs onto the spark plug has excessive resistance in it or the high voltage wire is not screwed into the cap or the coil. It is also possible the spark plug wire has an internal break or excessively high resistance.
If the cap and wire have been replaced, the ignition coil may be at fault.

If your seeing the nice hot, full spark at the plugs tip, the problem is either with the fuel supply or with compression.

Based on the video you provided, the compression seems to be acceptable so that leaves the fuel as the most likely problem.

If the engine is using a carburetor, it may need to be cleaned.
If the engine is fuel injected the injector may be dirty.

If the fuel injector is dirty (usually noticed because of starting problems or a lack of power when accelerating) adding some fuel injector cleaner to the petrol and riding the motorcycle will usually clean it.
It is impossible to mechanically clean the fuel injector so don't try.

I hope this helps you with your problem.
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Old 22nd May 2016, 11:06   #74
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Default re: Royal Enfield - Troubleshooting and technical support thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by ArizonaJim View Post

Do as bj96 suggests and check the spark plug to see if it is firing. (I assume the spark plug has been changed recently. If it hasn't, that is the first thing to do.)
Quote:
Originally Posted by bj96 View Post
Sounds like a weak battery to me. Fully charge the battery and try. Also, check for spark plug/ actual sparking and you have adequate fuel coming through the fuel pipe.

-BJ
This is something I could never have comprehended on my own. So thanks a lot to you two. I guess this would be the next thing I am going to try.

I dont remember changing the spark plug in the last 4 yrs/30K Kms, I never thought that this might have something to do with electric start.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ArizonaJim View Post

If you have a spare spark plug, you can just remove the high tension spark plug wire from the plug in the engine and plug in your spare spark plug. Be sure that the metal body of the spark plug is contacting the engine. Then, crank the engine with the electric starter motor. You should see a nice, bright blue spark leap from the center electrode to the grounding electrode on the spark plugs tip.

If the spark seems to be weak with just a tiny little spark jumping the gap I would suspect either the spark plug cab that plugs onto the spark plug has excessive resistance in it or the high voltage wire is not screwed into the cap or the coil. It is also possible the spark plug wire has an internal break or excessively high resistance.
If the cap and wire have been replaced, the ignition coil may be at fault.

If your seeing the nice hot, full spark at the plugs tip, the problem is either with the fuel supply or with compression.
Now my question here is , should I change both the Spark Plugs or the left side one. For testing should I try it only on the left hand side spark plug, will that be enough ?

The metal part of my Spark Plug Cap was removed long back at an Authorised Service Centre as he could not place it properly, even the wire housing is a bit loose, so I guess I will change the wire as well as the Spark Plug, only question is do I need to do this for both the spark plugs.

What is an ideal gap for spark plug, should I place the new one as it is or do i need to adjust the gap for a new plug too.

Mine is a carbuerettor based engine, so will clean it after the Spark Plug DIY.

I hope these will definitely take me somewhere.
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Old 22nd May 2016, 12:17   #75
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Default re: Royal Enfield - Troubleshooting and technical support thread

One more thing i forgot to mention ...

My bike is always a One Kick Start (95% of the time) which means that the Spark Plug is doing it job.
The question is whether its doing its job perfectly(not enough in case of ES) or not that needs to be looked into.

N that is the trickiest part, do we have some kind of measurement scale for spark plug..
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