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Old 20th November 2009, 10:29   #16
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Clean carb, reeds and put in new plugs. This should sort the misfire.

Maybe a good idea to empty/clean the petrol tank and refill. Seems water has gone inside the gear box thats when it turns whitish. Did you check the rubber O'rings on the plate?
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Old 20th November 2009, 12:10   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gordon View Post
The air filter is new and clean. My guesses are that the carb is very dirty, and would need cleaning. I noticed that there is too much oil(?) on the carb. Wonder from where the oil came.
you add two stroke oil to the petrol right? thats where the oil comes from. looks like your carb needs some cleaning.
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Old 20th November 2009, 13:39   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaggu View Post
Clean carb, reeds and put in new plugs. This should sort the misfire.

Maybe a good idea to empty/clean the petrol tank and refill. Seems water has gone inside the gear box thats when it turns whitish. Did you check the rubber O'rings on the plate?
+1 to that - because if there is sediment in the tank, then cleaning carb is of no use, becuase it will get clogged again. Remember, petrol 'cracks' over a period of time when usused - so it is better to throw away whatever is inside the tank now. Check the floats in the carb and also the air-screw setting.

As regards, mixing 2T oil in petrol - we tried it on several occassions. But the oil pump is best bet, because the amount of oil flow is metered by it. During low speeds / idling, the quantity that is fed out is minimal. But when cracking the throttle, the oil pump also increases the flow. Whereas, if you mix the 2T in petrol, the mixture will remain constant. Secondly, if you fill the 2T tank with good quality oil, then you need not depend on the petrol bunk guys for the oil.

In my KB, I used to add Iftek additive to the 2T oil (preferred Gulf / Elf over castrol) - never had a problem.

As regards the broken cable in speedo, which end is stuck? In the wheel or in the speedo? The wheel side can be easily removed by removing the worm gear from inside the hub. The speedo side is slightly difficult - you have to remove the meter from the casing and spin it out - if you force it, you may damage the (hair) springs or the spindle's balance.
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Old 20th November 2009, 14:07   #19
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Quote:
Did you check the rubber O'rings on the plate?
I didn't, but I asked the mech many times whether I'd need to change anything internally. He said everything is fine and only the oil needs to be replaced.

Quote:
Originally Posted by vrprabhu
But the oil pump is best bet, because the amount of oil flow is metered by it.
The mechanic said that he can try to get the fuel pump working. Else will have to get a new fuel pump, which I'm not really keen on doing at present.

Quote:
Originally Posted by vrprabhu
In the wheel or in the speedo? The wheel side can be easily removed by removing the worm gear from inside the hub.
Its the wheel side. They said we'd need a 'meter paana' to remove it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaggu
Maybe a good idea to empty/clean the petrol tank and refill.
Quote:
Originally Posted by vrprabhu
so it is better to throw away whatever is inside the tank now.
Will empty the tank of its contents, clean it and fill it again with new petrol+oil.

Will clean the carb/plug and install the connector plug on Sunday, when we wash the two café's. Will update once thats done.
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Old 20th November 2009, 14:26   #20
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Originally Posted by Gordon View Post
Its the wheel side. They said we'd need a 'meter paana' to remove it.
Well, if you remove the front wheel, on the hub you will see the round gear; this drives the worm gear for the speedo cable to spin. Once you take out the round gear, check that the worm gear moves freely - by rotating it, the broken piece of cable should fall out (from the hole through which it is fed on the outer side). You can try and use kerosene / WD 40 for cleaning if the gears are jammed.
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Old 4th December 2009, 22:00   #21
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Haven't cleant the carb yet, but have started the bike a few times. Ordered for the following parts:
  • Tank:
    Wanted a cherry red one, but it seems its no longer made. You get only black and maroon. Will pick the black one. Costs Rs 1000. But I'm still not very convinced, since the engine, hubs, forks and frame are also black. I really wanted the cherry red tank. And no I'm not looking for a paint job. There just isn't any time for that.
  • Seat:
    Original seat for Rs 550.
  • Front mudguard:
    Black (fibre). Was thinking of the chrome front mudguard, but then decided against it because of risk to rust AND that it'll be from a company called "Top".
  • Rear Mudguard: Chrome.
  • Brake Pedal
  • Taillight Bracket
  • Handlebar upper mounts
  • Spark Plug Connector
  • Tank Rubbers
I still have some old parts, will retain them instead of buying new ones. They include:
  • Gear Lever
  • Mirrors
  • Back Rest Rod
  • Handlebar
  • Side stand
  • Tank Lid
  • Proton will be retained
I've to search for the footpeg rod assembly and the rubbers. Will get the following work done too:
  • Clean carb
  • Replace some bulbs and check wiring again
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Old 17th January 2010, 21:34   #22
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any idea what coating needs to be done on the underside of fenders inorder to prevent it from rusting?
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Old 19th January 2010, 02:49   #23
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Original Fenders are good enough would not know about too humid places. but my RX 100's original fenders are still on i mean the front one with no internal coating or any thing and the rear one gave away almost after 14 years of service. got it changed this year with a brand new original part that was for 550 Indian gandhie's
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Old 27th January 2010, 23:09   #24
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Had a lot of missing problems. Traced the problem to a loose connection! So thats solved. Not a single misfire since.

A new problem has started thats quite annoying. The bike just goes off, and it takes quite a long time to start. Happens VERY often. Fuel check, carb clean check, air filter check, fuel pipe check, oil check, spark check. Nothing.

Last edited by Gordon : 27th January 2010 at 23:13.
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Old 28th January 2010, 03:16   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gordon View Post
Had a lot of missing problems. Traced the problem to a loose connection! So thats solved. Not a single misfire since.

A new problem has started thats quite annoying. The bike just goes off, and it takes quite a long time to start. Happens VERY often. Fuel check, carb clean check, air filter check, fuel pipe check, oil check, spark check. Nothing.
Check the ignition coil.
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Old 28th January 2010, 14:31   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by straight6 View Post
Check the ignition coil.
+1 to that. I had the same problem once - it was utlimately the wiring lead of the HT coil working itself loose! Check both the coil / cd unit as well as the coil lead.... best method to check is to fix the unit from your bike on other (running) bike
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Old 28th January 2010, 17:02   #27
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Post by Gordon:
The ignition coil is the one in the top corner of the chassis below the tank right?! Two wires go there. One orange and the other to spark plug.
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Old 29th January 2010, 15:54   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v12 View Post
Post by Gordon:
The ignition coil is the one in the top corner of the chassis below the tank right?! Two wires go there. One orange and the other to spark plug.
ya that is the ignition coil. the other wire is from the CDI unit i think.
check if the connectors are corroded or anything
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Old 10th June 2010, 00:15   #29
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The bike worked superbly for four months with NO problems. Now though the starting problem is back. The bike was washed and now after it starts, it dies off after moving a bit. I checked the current flowing to the spark plug - was continous and good - so the ignition coil is definitely good. Pulled to choke in the start for quite sometime, but then later it still dies off. Will check the spark plug once more though tomorrow. Any other ideas?
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Old 10th June 2010, 05:02   #30
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Quote:
The bike was washed and now after it starts, it dies off after moving a bit
and
Quote:
Pulled to choke in the start for quite sometime, but then later it still dies off
gives me two different scenarios; the former one tested in running condition & the later on main stands. Is that true?

Few of the thing that I can think off
- Clean the tank cap for any dust that is preventing air flow into gas tank
- Check for water in the carbs
- Check the fuel flow from tank-carbs & carbs to reed valve
- When the engine is about to die, open the fuel tank cap (using spare key) & see if the engine can be bought alive. If it does, then point #1 is the culprit.
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