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Old 19th November 2009, 08:31   #1
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Default Yamaha RX 100 Queries

I haven't moved the Yamaha café racer (RX 100) for quite some time now. The last I started her up, it started in a few kicks. But the moment I put it in gear, it jerked violently and stalled. The clutch is jammed. Over time if a bike is unused the clutch plates can stick to each other.

Obviously, only solution is to free up the clutch plates.

I've heard there are two possible ways to do this:

Suspend rear wheel
- keep the rear wheel suspended
- start the bike, engage gear, hold the clutch lever and hold throttle to reach 20-30 kmph for a few minutes.

Manually
- Opening up the clutch plates, oiling it and seperating them

I've tried the first method, but the clutch is still jammed. So I'd like to go ahead and open the clutch casing. Planning to do this myself when I get the time.

- Is there oil in the clutch casing? The oil pump on my RX does not function, so I keep adding oil with petrol. When I open the clutch casing, will oil flow out?
- Any other pointers I'd need to know?

Should I even be doing this? :lol
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Old 19th November 2009, 10:09   #2
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The clutch should free up if you hold the clutch lever in and kick, even in neutral. Even if the bike doesn't start, that first kick will do the trick. Try it and let me know.

The RX and most other 2 strokers have separate oil for the gearbox/clutch. 2T oil has nothing to do with the gearbox. So yes, oil will flow out.

Last edited by straight6 : 19th November 2009 at 10:11.
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Old 19th November 2009, 10:49   #3
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Thanks straight6, will try that. I want to give off the YCR kit though, know anyone who'd be interested?! Would like to get the bike back to stock, really need one for daily use when you have a café racer around.

Do you know the approximate prices of the following (local and original)?
  • Tank (painted/unpainted)
  • Handlebar
  • Seat
  • Sidestand/footrest rod
  • Footrest rubbers
  • Gear Lever
  • Brake Pedal
  • Taillight unit
  • Rear mudguard
  • Front mudguard (fibre and original)
  • L-brackets for rear footrests

Last edited by Gordon : 19th November 2009 at 10:55.
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Old 19th November 2009, 10:58   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gordon View Post

Do you know the approximate prices of the following (local and original)?
  • Seat
I paid 1200 for my RX100 seat OE.
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Old 19th November 2009, 11:09   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beejay
I paid 1200 for my RX100 seat OE.
The local costs Rs 450-500 I think. Quite a huge difference.
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Old 19th November 2009, 11:17   #6
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Originally Posted by Gordon View Post
The local costs Rs 450-500 I think. Quite a huge difference.
I agree. I had done my bike at the Authorised Service Center and did not source parts from outside. i even had it painted there. This is inclusive of the base plate and the side beading.
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Old 19th November 2009, 12:15   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gordon View Post
Thanks straight6, will try that. I want to give off the YCR kit though, know anyone who'd be interested?! Would like to get the bike back to stock, really need one for daily use when you have a café racer around.

Do you know the approximate prices of the following (local and original)?
  • Tank (painted/unpainted)
  • Handlebar
  • Seat
  • Sidestand/footrest rod
  • Footrest rubbers
  • Gear Lever
  • Brake Pedal
  • Taillight unit
  • Rear mudguard
  • Front mudguard (fibre and original)
  • L-brackets for rear footrests
Don't buy any seat. Just take you existing stock seat to Imran (Perfect Seats) on Andheri east highway and he will put some soft foam in it. You'll love it. I got it done for 500 bucks. Call him on 9322742117.

Here are the quotes I got for some of those parts for my bike.

Rear mudguard - 310
Brake pedal - 110
Gear lever - 190
Front footrest - 190
Handlebar - 180

I remember buying a local front mudguard for 250 bucks 3 years back and an original tail light for around 1000 bucks 2 years back.
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Old 19th November 2009, 12:41   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gordon View Post

- Is there oil in the clutch casing? The oil pump on my RX does not function, so I keep adding oil with petrol. When I open the clutch casing, will oil flow out?
- Any other pointers I'd need to know?

Should I even be doing this? :lol
First check if oil is there in the gear box, maybe a good idea to drain it and add new oil. Start the engine in neutral and let her run for a min, meanwhile just keep activating the clutch lever.

Now slot in 2nd gear and see. If stuck, then rock the bike in gear (2nd, 3rd) when engine is switched off and again start and see if she disengages.

Yes oil will be there in the side cover and will flow out, so drain it out. Check the rubber Orings inside the pressure plate, if they are missing or worn out this can happen.
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Old 19th November 2009, 12:44   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by straight6 View Post
Don't buy any seat.
Gordon, yes you should go in for restoration & all the best!!

And yes, don't buy any seat. But before repairing the original seat, check its base plate - the original RX had a metal base, which was prone to corrosion; if it corroded better to go in for a new one.

Fibre mudguard won't be authentic. You can get the original ones, and get them painted in the innerside - it helps preventing the rust. When we did restoration of my friends RX100 two years back, got the mudguards for about 500 bucks apiece.

IMHO, only the original handlebars are good - local ones aren't aligned properly.

Rest of the parts - rubber boots, brake lever & pedal etc. are easily available (except for the tail lamp - they are keen on pushing the Crux's unit for those in need!)

Tank will be difficult to source - if you have the original tank, it can be easily restored. (Last week we had repaired a Unicorn tank, with a big dent near the filler lid - the garage people just cut a small patch and dented it back to shape and redid the welding! Of course, had to repaint the whole tank!).

And finally, it would be better to open the clutch. Two strokes have wet multiplate clutches - if you open them, if would be possible to decide whether to reuse them or put in new ones if worn out. Worn clutch plates will cause slippage and strain the engine.......
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Old 19th November 2009, 13:28   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by straight6
Don't buy any seat. Just take you existing stock seat to Imran (Perfect Seats) on Andheri east highway and he will put some soft foam in it. You'll love it. I got it done for 500 bucks. Call him on 9322742117.
Quote:
Originally Posted by vrprabhu
And yes, don't buy any seat. But before repairing the original seat, check its base plate - the original RX had a metal base, which was prone to corrosion; if it corroded better to go in for a new one.
I know of Imran. He did the foaming and cover of the café seats. I cannot use my existing seat base, because it was shortened for the elongated tank. Good guy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by vrprabhu
Gordon, yes you should go in for restoration & all the best!!
Would have kept it as a café, but the brakes are not yet done because of serious lack of time to work and run around.

Quote:
Fibre mudguard won't be authentic. You can get the original ones, and get them painted in the innerside - it helps preventing the rust. When we did restoration of my friends RX100 two years back, got the mudguards for about 500 bucks apiece.
I'll go in for the original mudguards. Will keep in mind to paint the inner, or coat them with lacquer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jaggu
First check if oil is there in the gear box, maybe a good idea to drain it and add new oil. Start the engine in neutral and let her run for a min, meanwhile just keep activating the clutch lever.

Now slot in 2nd gear and see. If stuck, then rock the bike in gear (2nd, 3rd) when engine is switched off and again start and see if she disengages.

Yes oil will be there in the side cover and will flow out, so drain it out. Check the rubber Orings inside the pressure plate, if they are missing or worn out this can happen.
Will check for oil, and try what straight6 and you have suggested. Hope it works well.

I really have to get rid of my current kit, to buy new parts. The sooner the existing parts are sold, the better.
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Old 19th November 2009, 15:32   #11
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There is a worm gear on the innner side to the left(Just above the gear lever). This gear works when the clutch lever is pulled. Check if the gear is jammed, this should solve the clutch problem.
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Old 19th November 2009, 15:46   #12
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Originally Posted by straight6 View Post
I remember buying a local front mudguard for 250 bucks 3 years back and an original tail light for around 1000 bucks 2 years back.
Tail light for 1000? I got one for 170 a year back.

Better get a Thunderbird tail light, looks beautiful on a RX An old shitty photo with the tail light is attached.

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Old 19th November 2009, 22:41   #13
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Well tried kicking it every possible way - in neutral, in gear, started it and forced the gear at high rpm all to no avail.

Seriously thought of opening it but took it to the mechanic anyways. And it was a good thing. The clutch plates were stuck completely. They aren't worn out and are still well. The oil was VERT bad, white and sticky.

Cleaned the whole casing and clutch plates with petrol, filled in new oil and it works well now. No jams at all.

Thanks all for your help but its not over yet.

The bike misfires very much. it doesn't pick up speed at all. As soon as you go from low rpm to medium range rpm, it starts to misfire.

The air filter is new and clean. My guesses are that the carb is very dirty, and would need cleaning. I noticed that there is too much oil(?) on the carb. Wonder from where the oil came.

Last edited by Gordon : 19th November 2009 at 22:43.
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Old 19th November 2009, 22:58   #14
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Originally Posted by SunnyBoi View Post
Tail light for 1000? I got one for 170 a year back.
I just checked with the guy I bought it from and it was for 360 .

Gordon, check the spark plug. It could be fouled because of the oil. Get it cleaned and then check.
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Old 20th November 2009, 10:15   #15
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Will get the spark plug checked, and its a good reminder too. I had removed the connector plug, will have to install it again.

Front hub speedo
The speedo cable was broken from the front hub when I bought the bike. I cannot install a new speedo cable unless I remove the remains of the old cable from the front assembly. Any ideas how I can get this done? The mech told me he needs some special kind of tool to yank it out. Else he said I can go to a lathe guy to remove it.
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