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Old 1st December 2009, 12:24   #16
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@pssmath, a very nice project, but what about the focus of the beam in low as well as High beam format. How is compared to regular 12v filament bulb, what is the distance of the beam that can light up for comfortable ride?
I think you will need a lens or small lenses to focus the beam to useful distance while riding at speed.
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Old 1st December 2009, 15:33   #17
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ahh! lots of LEDs on each board=lot of patience. Thanks for sharing. Looks good. Project well done.

Though i am not convinced about headlight conversion, but it all depends on your vehicle usage. Should be fine if you drive only in city.
Do turn indicators flash? How did you manage?
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Old 1st December 2009, 16:22   #18
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excellent work, pradeep. Did you use any cut-ff relays or other similar stuff when you made your custom LED lighting?

If you dont mind, can you please share the circuit diagram?
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Old 9th December 2009, 12:25   #19
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Originally Posted by theexperthand View Post
excellent work, pradeep. Did you use any cut-ff relays or other similar stuff when you made your custom LED lighting?

If you dont mind, can you please share the circuit diagram?
Thanks, i have not used any sophisticated circuit for this set-up as i have used ordinary LED's, nor i have used any LED drivers for my conversion.

Only HIGH POWER LED'S require extensive circuitery. and thermal management for them to work for say at least 50,000 hours of continious lighting (which if converted to around say 6 hours daily usage makes it around 200,000 hours or around 25 years of usage).

As for the circuit it involves RESISTORS, CAPACITORS, DIODES (if connecting to Dynamo) for each series of either 1-2-3-4 LED's and the values change as per the brightness required by you, 1 resistor per led normally gives you the maximum brightness.

As you may know every led comes with its own DATASHEET (specs) so it is to be calculated on the type and colour of led that you are using.

Thanks again
Pradeep S Sulladmath

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Originally Posted by shyamhegde View Post
ahh! lots of LEDs on each board=lot of patience. Thanks for sharing. Looks good. Project well done.

Though i am not convinced about headlight conversion, but it all depends on your vehicle usage. Should be fine if you drive only in city.
Do turn indicators flash? How did you manage?
Hello Shyam,

You can say that again IT DOES NEED A LOT OF PATIENCE TO GET THIS DONE. The headlight brightness that you see in the pictures is at least THREE TIMES THE NORMAL FILAMENT BULB, it is quite powerful for city use but if you intend using your bike for long distance and night driving i would suggest using HIGH POWER LED'S, of course they are VERY COSTLY AND NEED PROPER CIRCUITS AND HEAT MANAGEMENT but then its a ONE TIME CAPITAL INVESTMENT ON YOUR BIKE.

I have a separate switch for all four indicators flash at the same time, otherwise i have connected them to the regular stock indicator flasher on my bike.

Thanks again
Pradeep S Sulladmath

Last edited by v12 : 9th December 2009 at 13:21.
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Old 9th December 2009, 12:47   #20
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Originally Posted by dinar View Post
@pssmath, a very nice project, but what about the focus of the beam in low as well as High beam format. How is compared to regular 12v filament bulb, what is the distance of the beam that can light up for comfortable ride?
I think you will need a lens or small lenses to focus the beam to useful distance while riding at speed.
Hello Dinar,

Thanks for your feedback, as you know LED'S are MONOCHROMATIC hence do not need either reflectors or lenses, in fact LOW POWER LED'S DO NOT HAVE REFLECTORS OR LENSES.

Only HIGH POWER LED'S HAVE LENSES AND IF NEEDED REFLECTORS.

The headlight low beam has around 30-40 feet of focused lighting, and the high beam has around 60-70 feet of focused lighting and if you can configure both beams ON when you switch over to HIGH BEAM then you have around 70 feet of FULLY LIGHTED BEAM which i feel is sufficient for city driving.

If you need a very POWERFUL BEAM THEN ONLY OPTION IS HIGH POWER LED'S, WHICH IF SAY 3 WATT LED'S ARE USED THEN YOU SHOULD COMFORTABLY GET ABOUT 200 FT OF EXCELLENT FOCUSSED BEAM WHICH IS MORE THAN SUFFICIENT FOR YOU NIGHT DRIVING AT HIGH SPEEDS.

Pradeep S Sulladmath
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Old 9th December 2009, 13:00   #21
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Originally Posted by ilangop View Post
Hi Pradeep,
Great job, the modification looks awsome. And the headlight conversion; got no words to talk about it, should say "Simply Superb". LEDs on a vintage/Classic gives a contemperory look. I had purchased about 40 red LEDs with the intention for trying our a brake lamp conversion for my scooter. But they have been lying around for 5 months, since I bought. Your work motivates me to start it soon.
Well I have some doubts here. Have you used 2 different sereis for brake & tail lamp or 2 series activated through different resistors for varying the brightness. It would be of great info if you could share the resistor values and No of LEDs used in 1 series.
Do the indicators fladh with the same DC or AC flasher or else have you done your own circuit for controlling the flash timing?

-Ilango
Hello Ilango,

Thank you very much for your feedback, i do hope that you will soon complete your project and post some pictures of it for us all to share the joy of it.

I have used TWO DIFFERENT circuits one for the brake light (connected to the battery) and one for the tail lamp (connected to the dynamo) which supplies A/C current. Each circuit has its own components i.e resistors, diodes.
I have used SUPER HIGH BRIGHTNESS (red in white) led's for both brake light and tail lamp, the brake light has 20 led's and the tail lamp has 44 led's.

The indicators are connected to the existing stock flasher which was there before no changes have been made there, in case after conversion the falshing is rapid then you may have to use a delay timer on the flasher, i think this can be easily done with no major alteration.

Pradeep S Sulladmath
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Old 9th December 2009, 13:11   #22
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Originally Posted by Rennjit View Post
Can you post some daytime pictures of Indicators, tail-brake lights?
I ask this because most Leds appear dim in sunlight IF lamp assemblies are fully exposed to sun (all indicators & some tail lamps as like Bullet). New bikes with Led tail lamps have some opaque surface on top & a slant lens thus limiting sun falling on source Led.

I think a slightly curved (convex) mount surface (or leds angled outwards) would further enhance light spread or rather provide a wider visibility angle since Leds feature a limit angle of light throw. what you say?
Hello Rennjit,

I will certainly post some daytime pictures of the conversion, in just a couple of days.
Normally even filament bulb indicators or lights appear dim in sunlight when exposed directly to sunlight but with LED's there is one advantage if you are DIRECTLY BEHIND THE LIGHT THEN THESE LIGHTS ARE WAY BRIGHTER than conventional filament bulb indicators.

As LED'S are MONOCHROMATIC the light beam is EXACTLY IN THE DIRECTION WHICH THE LED IS FACING, and normally LED'S ARE MOUNTED ON A FLAT SURFACE IN CLUSTERS TO ADD BRIGHTNESS AND VISIBILITY.

I have used the LOWEST BRIGHTNESS CONFIGURATION ON MY BIKE, IN CASE THESE ARE NOT SATISFACTORY THEN YOU CAN ALWAYS GO FOR HIGH POWER LED'S, which i personally feel unnecessary for our driving conditions.

If you need a wider angle of light spread then all you need to do is go for WID ANGLE LED'S, but their availability freely is doubtful for all colours.

Pradeep S Sulladmath

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Originally Posted by badboyscad View Post
can you please post the circuit diagram of your setup?
Hello Badboy!

I would certainly post the circuit details if it would SERVE THE PURPOSE, but unfortunately the following applies to all led lights.

1. Every LED comes with its own SPECIFICATIONS and the circuit CHANGES AS PER THE SPECS OF THE TYPE AND COLOUR OF LED THAT YOU ARE USING.

2. You cannot MIX TWO COLOUR LED'S INTO THE SAME CIRCUIT AS IT WILL NOT WORK.
3. The circuit changes with the SOURCE VOLTAGE AND THE NUMBER OF LED'S IN YOU ARRAY.
3. The circuit is different for DC current and AC current.

Hence if you can tell me all the above mentioned details i will make the circuit and post it for you perusal.

Pradeep S Sulladmath

Last edited by v12 : 9th December 2009 at 13:20.
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Old 9th December 2009, 15:19   #23
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Originally Posted by pssmath View Post
Hello Dinar,

Thanks for your feedback, as you know LED'S are MONOCHROMATIC hence do not need either reflectors or lenses, in fact LOW POWER LED'S DO NOT HAVE REFLECTORS OR LENSES.

Only HIGH POWER LED'S HAVE LENSES AND IF NEEDED REFLECTORS.

The headlight low beam has around 30-40 feet of focused lighting, and the high beam has around 60-70 feet of focused lighting and if you can configure both beams ON when you switch over to HIGH BEAM then you have around 70 feet of FULLY LIGHTED BEAM which i feel is sufficient for city driving.

If you need a very POWERFUL BEAM THEN ONLY OPTION IS HIGH POWER LED'S, WHICH IF SAY 3 WATT LED'S ARE USED THEN YOU SHOULD COMFORTABLY GET ABOUT 200 FT OF EXCELLENT FOCUSSED BEAM WHICH IS MORE THAN SUFFICIENT FOR YOU NIGHT DRIVING AT HIGH SPEEDS.

Pradeep S Sulladmath
I have worked with LEDs, the high powered once [luxeons], and had archived 19mts of highly focused beam of 120deg spread and very clear[ after that it was not clear] was using just 6 watts of power . So Just wanted to know how the spread of your setup was and what distance and how did you manage it.
will be restarting my project soon. Once free from work.
Good to see some one actually is bold enough to use on a vehicle.
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Old 9th December 2009, 15:24   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pssmath View Post
Hello Dinar,

Thanks for your feedback, as you know LED'S are MONOCHROMATIC hence do not need either reflectors or lenses, in fact LOW POWER LED'S DO NOT HAVE REFLECTORS OR LENSES.

Only HIGH POWER LED'S HAVE LENSES AND IF NEEDED REFLECTORS.

The headlight low beam has around 30-40 feet of focused lighting, and the high beam has around 60-70 feet of focused lighting and if you can configure both beams ON when you switch over to HIGH BEAM then you have around 70 feet of FULLY LIGHTED BEAM which i feel is sufficient for city driving.

If you need a very POWERFUL BEAM THEN ONLY OPTION IS HIGH POWER LED'S, WHICH IF SAY 3 WATT LED'S ARE USED THEN YOU SHOULD COMFORTABLY GET ABOUT 200 FT OF EXCELLENT FOCUSSED BEAM WHICH IS MORE THAN SUFFICIENT FOR YOU NIGHT DRIVING AT HIGH SPEEDS.

Pradeep S Sulladmath
I have worked with LEDs, the high powered once [luxeon rebel], and had archived 19mts of highly focused beam of 120deg spread and very clear[ after that it was not clear] was using just 6 watts of power . So Just wanted to know how the spread of your setup was and what distance and how did you manage it.
will be restarting my project soon. Once free from work.
Good to see some one actually is bold enough to use on a vehicle.
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Old 9th December 2009, 18:13   #25
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Originally Posted by pssmath View Post
Hello BHPians,

I have recently converted my YEZDI ROADKING TO A FULL LED LIGHTING SYSTEM which i would like to share with you all.
As you all may know that LED's are the latest technology in lighting solutions for automotive and home lighting systems, as they are ECO FRIENDLY, RUGGED AND DURABLE THAN ANY
FILAMENT/FLUROCENT/HALOGEN/CFL BULBS. They are an excellent alternative to conventional lighting systems.

I am attaching some pictures of my YEZDI ROADKING for your perusal and valuable feedback.

Thanks
Pradeep S Sulladmath

Hello Members,

As requested by some members i am herewith adding Daytime Pictures of my Bike as well as that of the LED Conversion, hope that you like them.

Kindly note that the LED Conversion pictures were taken on a normal SUNNY DAY IN BANGALORE.

Thanks
Pradeep S Sulladmath
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Old 9th December 2009, 18:56   #26
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you can find the resister and schematic details from LED Calculator - Current limiting resistor calculator for LED arrays
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Old 9th December 2009, 20:10   #27
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you can find the resister and schematic details from LED Calculator - Current limiting resistor calculator for LED arrays
Hello KNP,

That's right there are many such resistor calculators available on the net, that's exactly what i was quoting that there is no FIXED CIRCUIT for this Conversion but varies according to the configuration and the number of LED's used and the colour of the LED's.

Pradeep S Sulladmath
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Old 22nd January 2014, 15:53   #28
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Default Re: LED Lighting Conversion for your Two Wheelers

Wow, the led lights look great. I am planning to get this done for my RE Thunderbird also, have got in touch with someone who does this part time. Just wanted to confirm the cost of the headlamp (only) and how has the light worked so far, any maintenance?
Thanks.
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Old 22nd January 2014, 16:19   #29
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Originally Posted by sacadvani View Post
Wow, the led lights look great. I am planning to get this done for my RE Thunderbird also, have got in touch with someone who does this part time. Just wanted to confirm the cost of the headlamp (only) and how has the light worked so far, any maintenance?
Thanks.
Hi Sachin, I believe you are replying to a 5 year old post mate. Regarding LED conversion, I think it is better if you add on auxiliary LED lights to your headlight instead of replacing the primary headlamp of your Thunderbird. If you have the new TBTS then the projector headlamp is more than adequate, for normal purposes, if it is the older one, then 10 watt LED spotlights on the leg guard is more than enough along with your main beam for night rides. Approx cost is between 4000-6000 a pair. Depends on which city you reside in. And fixing is a piece of cake, any mechanic can fix it, please use suitable relays though. Cheers.
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Old 23rd January 2014, 11:01   #30
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Default Re: LED Lighting Conversion for your Two Wheelers

Hello Mr. Advani,
Thank you for replying to my post, firstly i suggest that you consider the following:

1. The LED conversion i made on my bike was PURELY EXPERIMENTAL, i have gained much more knowledge as to how LED's work and which is the best way to use them.
2. If you are looking for QUALITY CONVERSION which will last the life of your bike i would suggest that you go for CUSTOM MADE CONVERSIONS because it will be worth the money you spend.
3. Go for COMPLETE CONVERSION of the bike rather than just the headlight.
4. The light INTENSITY & THROW that i achieved THEN pales in comparison to what i have achieved NOW because i am using SPECIAL LED'S WITH LENSES to achieve better beam pattern & throw which will work better than ANY AFTERMARKET fitment available in the market.

I have converted my car (Daewoo matiz 1999 model) completely to LED so you can imagine the INTENSITY, BEAM PATTERN & THROW that i have achieved using only SPECIAL LED's and NOT HIGH POWER LED's which need advanced circuits to protect them and also thermal management without which they will fail prematurely.
As for maintainence of these light IT IS NILL !!! they are purely FIT & FORGET LIGHTS THAT LAST THE LIFE OF YOUR BIKE !!!

Thanks
Pradeep S Sulladmath
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