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Old 15th November 2010, 16:57   #496
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@Vinjosep- Its probably due to healthy charge and your horns need some tuning and that all. There will be a screw on the horn, try adjusting it with the engine running.

@Achint- Hey remember the grinding noise(road roller like noise) from gears you had during running in, do you still have it?
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Old 15th November 2010, 18:57   #497
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Definitely. Still hear it sometimes, but then I have learned to live with it.

Waise it wasn't the gears, might have been the valvetrain rattling away to glory. :P Missing my Bull these days, so eagerly want to ride again.
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Old 16th November 2010, 10:36   #498
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My First accident with Bullu. School girl jumped across the road. Panicked and applied brakes- Front disk locked, nose dived, lost balance and hit the ground to right side. Nothing serious - minor scratches on arms, right knee and sprain on thighs. The girl ran away unharmed. I was riding at 20kmph on 2nd gear.

Bullu's headlamp cap and steel rim crushed, right foot peg bent and crash guard displaced. No other damage noticed so far and vehicle running fine. Engine stopped a few seconds after hitting the ground.

I ve experienced Nose-diving on application of front brakes before also. Is it something to do with Front shocks ? - I mean it feels too soft when applying brakes. But perhaps thats what saved the small girl.

Now feeling depressed about the damage
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Old 16th November 2010, 11:12   #499
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Originally Posted by EssYouWe View Post
I know very little about horns but possible issues that come to mind are:
- The horn relay is malfunctioning
.
Spot on!! It was a kaput relay. On the way back home, had got a new Hella relay. Tried it on today morning and all is well. I place the blame squarely on the guy who had installed the horns for me. He had installed the relay with the terminals pointing to heaven and then packed it with a few curls of insulation tape. (yes, i should have been more firm in getting it done my way - lesson learned). When i undid these today, found the area around the terminals to be rusted and moist with water. This was the culprit. pheew..

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@Vinjosep- Its probably due to healthy charge and your horns need some tuning and that all. There will be a screw on the horn, try adjusting it with the engine running.
Thank you. Luckily did not have to reach this stage.
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Old 16th November 2010, 12:28   #500
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@San

Really sorry to hear that San. But then, it is nothing that can't be rectified. I don't know if you believe in this kind of a thing, but I prefer leaving the first scratch as it is on my vehicles. :P

Try practicing emergency braking and counter steering techniques. These were the things I first learned during the run-in period. Start off from low speeds and try to build them up.

Modulating the use of the rear drums can, to a very large extent, stabilize the bike. Start by working on using both the breaks together. Don't worry about the stopping distance initially. Try and get the stability bang on.
One thought always helps: the Bullet is definitely heavier and more powerful than you. Best to try and work *with* the Bull, than against it.

@Vinjosep

Glad that its sorted out!

PS: A personal request, I hate not being able to share pics of my Bull with you guys. (No I am not asking you to buy me a digicam :P) So, please regularly add pics of your rides.

Cheers
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Old 16th November 2010, 12:32   #501
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stnair View Post
My First accident with Bullu. School girl jumped across the road. Panicked and applied brakes- Front disk locked, nose dived, lost balance and hit the ground to right side. Nothing serious - minor scratches on arms, right knee and sprain on thighs. The girl ran away unharmed. I was riding at 20kmph on 2nd gear.

Bullu's headlamp cap and steel rim crushed, right foot peg bent and crash guard displaced. No other damage noticed so far and vehicle running fine. Engine stopped a few seconds after hitting the ground.

I ve experienced Nose-diving on application of front brakes before also. Is it something to do with Front shocks ? - I mean it feels too soft when applying brakes. But perhaps thats what saved the small girl.

Now feeling depressed about the damage
Sorry to hear about that buddy, Surprised that the Bullet with 180+ kg went for a nose dive when braked hard at 20km/hr. Any way as you had previous experiences I will pin point the culprit as the disk brakes. As I had pointed out earlier the clearance between the pad and the disks are minute and the pressure you apply on the levers will be multiplied several times the force reaches the disks ! (Hydraulic force -Bernoulli's principle ??). Use the lever like you do it in a drum brake like that of splendor and you are a bird flying over the handle bars. Just use two fingers while using the lever of disk brake and squeeze gently. Well that is theory and in a practical situation we all will jerk the lever to the limits to avoid making pulp of some body and the locals making pulp of us after the incident ! The engine of the bullet stopped due to over flow. You dont need to get the blues ! It happends sometimes man. I wish you safe riding !

Last edited by adrian : 16th November 2010 at 12:43.
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Old 16th November 2010, 21:39   #502
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@Achint, Adrian, Thanks for consoling me.

I think in a way, I am partially responsible for the accident today morning. Yesterday night I had sprayed WD-40 on the chain very close to the rear sprocket (actually I sprayed on the sprocket and rotated the wheel by hand so that it spreads uniformly on the chain). Today morning while taking out Bullu, I noticed the rear brakes were a little low but there was no time to adjust. But after the accident, I found there is no rear brake at all . The WD-40 must have seeped through the sprocket and damaged (lubricated) the brake shoe !

It is my theory that absence of any rear brake must have caused the bike to nose dive on application of Front disk brakes, especially in the panic situation - Am I correct?

Another fact I noticed is that Front brake Nose diving is prominent on slow speeds (<40kmph) and not on high speeds. On higher speeds, Front brakes can be applied confidently to slow down the vehicle rapidly.

One more trouble caused due to the accident is the L shaped pipe connecting the Accelerator cable to Right hand twist grip has come loose and is now freely turning here and there causing Bullu to rev as he likes. How do I set it right?

regards
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Old 16th November 2010, 22:04   #503
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@Stnair- Never mind small accidents, its part of biking If you want to eradicate nose dive then get the oil checked in the forks. You have two options of volume which can be filled into the forks.


Put 170ml in each fork if you want a very comfortable ride over rough surface with a bit of nose dive on braking.

Put 195ml(RE recommendation) in each fork if you want to completely eradicate nose dive at any speed. I have tried hard breaking till 120km/h and it was darn stable and safe. But not so comfortable on rough roads. Although very stable at high speeds.
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Old 17th November 2010, 00:51   #504
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@stnair: sad to hear about the incident. The first scratch/ dent is the most painful part in owning a bike/ car. And it cant be avoided, how much careful one might be.

Today was a bad day for me
1) 5 idiots kissed my ride with theirs. Thrice on the rear number plate and once each on both the rear indicators. skipped a beat each time. the number plate has a small moon shaped mark now. the rear indicators seem to be intact.

2) Had parked the bike in the safety of my office's parking lot. with ample space left for others. Still someone managed to leave a decent scratch on the tank (well, its a very small one. like my wife said.. need a magnifying glass to see it. but then its MY BULLET)

3) On my way to meet friends, during late evening had stopped at a signal. Had switched off the engine since it was going to be some time before i would move. When i tried to start again with ES, there was no repsonse. Somehow managed to push the bike to the roadside and tried again. 2 cranks and still no success. Sounded as if there was no juice left in the battery, just a whirring sound. For the first time, used the kick start and the bike started fine. I kept observing the ammeter after this. I was using headlights and irrespective of the speed at which i was driving, the needle was at the dead centre. When i switched to only parking lights, then the needle was leaning way much towards the + side. Rode a few kilometres without the headlight (there were street lamps and hence took the risk) and then stopped on the roadside. Switched off the engine, lights etc and gave the ES a try. first time , the usual cranking sound but the engine didnt fire. The second try ended with a whirring sound (sounded as if coming from underneath the seat towards the left side of the bike, near to the battery?!! not sure). Had to resort to the kick start yet again. Continued on my way without further stops/ incidents and reached he destination. Had a stop of about 2 hours. When i started back home, again the ES did not work. First crank sounded fine. held it for 2-3 seconds (as suggested in the manual), but no luck. second try failed with a whirring noise. gave up and relied on the kick start. On reaching home, tried the ES. now it doesnt even try crank, but just a strange whirr.

Now what am i up against? I have no clue. all guidance, help welcome (actually in desparate need).

So all in all a sad day!
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Old 17th November 2010, 10:00   #505
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@Vinjosep-Two things can go wrong, RR or battery not holding charge.
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Old 17th November 2010, 17:07   #506
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@Vinjosep-Two things can go wrong, RR or battery not holding charge.
Thank you Randhawa. please excuse my ignorance, but RR stands for?

The current status: Today being a holiday invested a little time to check whether i could spot any visible problems with the electricals. No success. So took the bike out (had to resort to kick start to bring it alive). covered around 10km in the city traffic and then tried the ES. took around 2 secs, but the engine fired to life! covered another 10+ km, and after a 10 minutes break tried the ES again. Presto! this time the bike started with the first crank.

Now yesterday after i had faced the problem, had covered close to 50kms. The only difference from today was that headlights were used. Also when i switch on the headlight the parking lights seem to dim a bit. is this normal?

Now its been 5 hrs since i last used the bike. Am going out and let me see if the battery was able to hold the charge. fingers crossed...
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Old 17th November 2010, 18:07   #507
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kissed on the rear number plate

man this happens so many times I just wonder why. i guess people keep drooling over the bike and loose control

@Stnair. Good that you are safe. I had an accident sometime back where similar damage happened. But the impact was even more and affected the gear system. got some part replaced which improved the gearing.

As the bike is running more the number of niggles are going down. Maybe its got to do with the increasing confidence on the ride

Drive safe
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Old 17th November 2010, 18:29   #508
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@vinjosep

RR is Regulator Rectifier Unit. Supplies the correct charging voltage to the battery. To check it, connect a Multimeter to battery terminals and check voltage while engine is running. It should be between 12.2 to 13.5 volts. Give moderate accelerator and check with headlights on and off.

regards
san

Last edited by stnair : 17th November 2010 at 18:31. Reason: more data
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Old 17th November 2010, 20:02   #509
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stnair View Post
My First accident with Bullu. School girl jumped across the road. Panicked and applied brakes- Front disk locked, nose dived, lost balance and hit the ground to right side. Nothing serious - minor scratches on arms, right knee and sprain on thighs. The girl ran away unharmed. I was riding at 20kmph on 2nd gear.

Bullu's headlamp cap and steel rim crushed, right foot peg bent and crash guard displaced. No other damage noticed so far and vehicle running fine. Engine stopped a few seconds after hitting the ground.

I ve experienced Nose-diving on application of front brakes before also. Is it something to do with Front shocks ? - I mean it feels too soft when applying brakes. But perhaps thats what saved the small girl.

Now feeling depressed about the damage
Don't feel depressed. No one got hurt. Think of how bad it would be if it had been otherwise...

Regarding braking on Royal Enfields, I can only say practice, practice, practice! I locked my brakes and fell (twice!) on my TBTS, before I learnt this lesson. Now I practice emergency braking every week. Start slow and gradually (over weeks/months) increase your speed for such practice 20, 30, 40, 50, ... kmph, to the maximum speeds you normally ride at (for if you cannot stop at that speed, you shouldn't be riding at it!).

The point of such practice is that, even in an emergency situation when there is no time to think, you instinctively modulate the brakes so that you don't lock them up.

BTW, there is quite a lot on braking in the "Safe Riding Thread".

Last edited by Rollin' Thunda : 17th November 2010 at 20:15.
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Old 17th November 2010, 20:35   #510
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@vinjosep

RR is Regulator Rectifier Unit. Supplies the correct charging voltage to the battery. To check it, connect a Multimeter to battery terminals and check voltage while engine is running. It should be between 12.2 to 13.5 volts. Give moderate accelerator and check with headlights on and off.

regards
san
Thank you.

Boy, this ownership experience is turning out to be something far beyond what i had imagined. going by the current trend i will be familar with each and every component that has gone into the bull before i complete an year.

Now back to my starting troubles: The bike started at the first touch after a break of 5 hrs. Not even a slight hint of anything amiss. so far so good. Did a short ride of approx 10km. Again tried the ES, result was OK. On the way back had to use the headlights and mid-way made another stop. 15 minutes later when i tried ES, it took a couple of seconds before the engine fired up. Later back home, when i tried again the scenario repeated. Somehow makes me think that the whole episode is linked to the headlamps.
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