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Old 12th January 2010, 18:20   #16
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Default Gurus, help required with jetting of BS29

Well, I got the jets today and proceeded to put in the 130 main and a 25 pilot. with this jetting and a short bottle, it seems to be too rich, black smoke coming out of the exhaust.

So I decided to go down to 20 pilot, the black smoke is a little less but can be seen clearly at idle. I have the needle set at the lowest notch i.e. it is raised. Took the bike out for a test ride around the block, the low end is good, acceleration is brisk and exhaust note is meaty. However,

1. the idle is not stable
2. the bike sputters at around 1/3rd throttle and refuses to rev higher.
3. the revs don't die down immediately, it takes a second or two before it settles down(the strokes seem to follow rather quickly, is this called 8-stroking?)

Now, I am planning to do the following as it appears the jetting is a little too rich at idle to 1/8th. The sputtering at 1/3rd seems to indicate overly rich main jet.:

1. change the pilot to 17.5 and main at 130

2. If the above doesnt work, retain 17.5 pilot and set main to 117.5 while lowering the needle to the middle notch.

Gurus, I hope I am headed in the right direction. Your inputs would be highly appreciated.
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Old 12th January 2010, 18:54   #17
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Originally Posted by Beast_of_Burden View Post
.. I hope I am headed in the right direction. Your inputs ..
If not real experienced with carb tuning, its better to fiddle just one at a time. Changing any one & note how machine responds though initially takes time but will leave much useful info for quick works later. Its just that so many variables & each machine responds different & so are riding styles.
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Old 12th January 2010, 19:16   #18
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If not real experienced with carb tuning, its better to fiddle just one at a time. Changing any one & note how machine responds though initially takes time but will leave much useful info for quick works later. Its just that so many variables & each machine responds different & so are riding styles.
Always change one thing at a time. Now better to go back to stock and begin the process one by one. 130 sounds like overkill as you haven't modded the intake. Start with 120. 125 should just about be right. a richer pilot won't give you good initial. You are running too rich. Shortly your plug might foul going by your observations of 1/3rd throttle limit. Main jets isn't the issue here. Lean your air screw down if you are at more than 3 full turns out. Check your plug also once for a stable spark.

Cheers,

Jay
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Old 12th January 2010, 20:13   #19
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If not real experienced with carb tuning, its better to fiddle just one at a time. Changing any one & note how machine responds though initially takes time but will leave much useful info for quick works later. Its just that so many variables & each machine responds different & so are riding styles.
@ Rennjit - Yes, you figured out rightaway that I dont have much experience. It didn't take long for me either to understand, this thing isnt going to be a slam dunk. Many variables and some are overlapping and interrelated.

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Originally Posted by JayPrashanth View Post
Always change one thing at a time. Now better to go back to stock and begin the process one by one. 130 sounds like overkill as you haven't modded the intake. Start with 120. 125 should just about be right. a richer pilot won't give you good initial. You are running too rich. Shortly your plug might foul going by your observations of 1/3rd throttle limit. Main jets isn't the issue here. Lean your air screw down if you are at more than 3 full turns out. Check your plug also once for a stable spark.

Cheers,

Jay
@Jay - Point taken, I am going back to stock(both needle setting and main jet) and start from there. Correct me if I am wrong, the pilot is in play for upto 1/4th throttle on the bullet(typically 1/8th). My goal is to run slightly on the rich side of optimal in the low end for city use, so I will start with a 17.5 pilot and adjust the air screw. It doesn't take long for the bike to heat up in traffic, hence the goal of running the pilot rich. Right now it is dumping the equivalent of hot coals out of the exhaust
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Old 12th January 2010, 20:42   #20
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BoB, that was well written. So is it possible to see some pics of the carb being opened up by you. If not while you did it earlier then could you manage it when you open it up next.
Regards
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Old 12th January 2010, 20:43   #21
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@Jay - Point taken, I am going back to stock(both needle setting and main jet) and start from there. Correct me if I am wrong, the pilot is in play for upto 1/4th throttle on the bullet(typically 1/8th). My goal is to run slightly on the rich side of optimal in the low end for city use, so I will start with a 17.5 pilot and adjust the air screw. It doesn't take long for the bike to heat up in traffic, hence the goal of running the pilot rich. Right now it is dumping the equivalent of hot coals out of the exhaust
Yeah, in the bullets the pilot jet works till almost 1/4th throttle. To prevent overheating in the city, use the 17.5 or max 20 pilot and experiment with the pilot. Anything more than 4 full turns might foul the plug. If you're using your LB500 primarily as a city runabout with a lot of low speed, high traffic running, you will be better off using an oil cooler from any of the Bajaj 2XX and the Motul 300V full synthetic. This combo will maximise engine protection while keeping the temperature in check.

Cheers,

Jay
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Old 13th January 2010, 23:37   #22
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BoB, that was well written. So is it possible to see some pics of the carb being opened up by you. If not while you did it earlier then could you manage it when you open it up next.
Regards
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Originally Posted by JayPrashanth View Post
Yeah, in the bullets the pilot jet works till almost 1/4th throttle. To prevent overheating in the city, use the 17.5 or max 20 pilot and experiment with the pilot. Anything more than 4 full turns might foul the plug. If you're using your LB500 primarily as a city runabout with a lot of low speed, high traffic running, you will be better off using an oil cooler from any of the Bajaj 2XX and the Motul 300V full synthetic. This combo will maximise engine protection while keeping the temperature in check.

Cheers,

Jay
I was short on time today so I put in the 17.5 pilot with the stock 110 main jet, the smoke has disappeared. I could not remove the top and it is still on the raised needle, but tomorrow I shall make this change. The idle is just a tad unsteady. I have the air screw out ~2 turns. The exhaust note is still meaty and the bike lunges forward eagerly. Around where I stay it is not possible to to go over 50 kph, so I will do a more thorough test tomorrow morning on a longish ride to see how it transitions through the rev range. I will take some pictures this time.

@Jay - I read up with interest the thread on installing an oil cooler on an LB500. IIRC, the Ariel G80 had an auxiliary oil tank as did many other thumpers of that era. It seems simple enough, I am seriously considering it. Do you know of anyone who has installed this mod? Motul full synth is expensive isnt it? I was going to try the Veedol semi synth during the next oil change based on a couple of your posts.

I have been thinking of removing the hot tube in the exhaust. By all accounts this makes a huge difference, your impressions please.
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Old 14th January 2010, 00:21   #23
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@Jay - I read up with interest the thread on installing an oil cooler on an LB500. IIRC, the Ariel G80 had an auxiliary oil tank as did many other thumpers of that era. It seems simple enough, I am seriously considering it. Do you know of anyone who has installed this mod? Motul full synth is expensive isnt it? I was going to try the Veedol semi synth during the next oil change based on a couple of your posts.

I have been thinking of removing the hot tube in the exhaust. By all accounts this makes a huge difference, your impressions please.
Installing the oil cooler on the LB500 is a two hour job. Pretty simple as the oil lines run outside the engine. One team-bhpian here has it done and even posted pics of it. Yeah Motul full synth is expensive but is worth every rupee. I change engine oil every 2000 Ks, and that is 1000 Ks below the recommended interal. With Motul, I plan to change at 4000 Ks. Works out to be 100 bucks extra per liter(compared to veedol semi synth). Great VFM imho. About the hot tube, if you remoe it, your initial will suffer as your back pressure will decrease. Good for tourers who don't bother about the initial, not so good for city slickers who want that torque punch low down the rev range. That said, I've thrown mine out and I miss the addictive low end torque punch.

Cheers,

Jay
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Old 14th January 2010, 10:00   #24
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..the Ariel G80 had an auxiliary oil tank as did many other thumpers of that era. It seems simple enough, I am seriously considering it. Do you know of anyone who has installed this mod?
Oil cooler in rocker feed line is the practical one. Separate tank needs a pump to get oil in there from timing chest. Interestingly RE's integrated oil tank was of a betterment for cooler English climates, as oil warms up quick. Here in our hot climes separate tank arrangement would have been beneficial, even use a small radiator as oil tank.

@Jay - iirc, you were upto installing oil cooler, dropped?
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Old 14th January 2010, 14:45   #25
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Oil cooler in rocker feed line is the practical one. Separate tank needs a pump to get oil in there from timing chest. Interestingly RE's integrated oil tank was of a betterment for cooler English climates, as oil warms up quick. Here in our hot climes separate tank arrangement would have been beneficial, even use a small radiator as oil tank.

@Jay - iirc, you were upto installing oil cooler, dropped?
I am very much on the project. Waiting for some Vitamin M since I am back to being a student again.

Cheers,

Jay
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Old 23rd January 2010, 17:40   #26
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Default Help with idle gone berserk

Sorry about the delayed update. I quite like the results from installing the 17.5 pilot, needle at the stock center position and stock main jet(110). The best F/A mixture is at 1.5 turns out, the idle is quite good at this setting but not quite as stable as with the stock jet. The pilot does overlap with main even at WOT, contrary to popular belief the pilot continues to meter fuel. Perhaps, i was seeing the effect of this when I found that the engine is running cooler at sustained high speeds of 90+, it definitely runs cooler in the city and is vastly more tractable for city riding. There was reluctance earlier to go past 100, but now it goes to 115 without much coaxing but then at this speed the vibrations seem to be life-threatening, no kidding, so backed off. I have also reversed the main breather, now the straight end connects to the engine and the angle end connects to the catch can. Next, I have to disconnect the vent tube going to the timing cover and route it over the chain, however I havent been able to think of an elegant way to plug the hole on the inside of the timing case.

After a few days of feeling good about the progress I had made, the "monkeying around" bug bit me again today. So installed the 117.5 main jet. It is impossible to predict results with any degree of accuracy so I was a bit apprehensive. I havent had a chance to take it out on the highway and open it up, I will update the report tomorrow. The exhaust note has become overly ripe, the bike doesnt rev as eagerly as it did before. A large part of my bike's kms are put on in speeds in excess of 90, so I need to see if I like it up there.


@ Deutsch - Here are the pics of the innards you requested. These are pics of the top of the CV carb, the float side isnt too different from a del'orto type carb so I havent included those pics.
Attached Thumbnails
2007 LB500, Second owner’s review-p1130199.jpg  

2007 LB500, Second owner’s review-p1130200.jpg  

2007 LB500, Second owner’s review-p1130198.jpg  

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Old 23rd January 2010, 20:35   #27
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Originally Posted by Beast_of_Burden View Post
Sorry about the delayed update. I quite like the results from installing the 17.5 pilot, needle at the stock center position and stock main jet(110). The best F/A mixture is at 1.5 turns out, the idle is quite good at this setting but not quite as stable as with the stock jet. The pilot does overlap with main even at WOT, contrary to popular belief the pilot continues to meter fuel. Perhaps, i was seeing the effect of this when I found that the engine is running cooler at sustained high speeds of 90+, it definitely runs cooler in the city and is vastly more tractable for city riding. There was reluctance earlier to go past 100, but now it goes to 115 without much coaxing but then at this speed the vibrations seem to be life-threatening, no kidding, so backed off. I have also reversed the main breather, now the straight end connects to the engine and the angle end connects to the catch can. Next, I have to disconnect the vent tube going to the timing cover and route it over the chain, however I havent been able to think of an elegant way to plug the hole on the inside of the timing case.

After a few days of feeling good about the progress I had made, the "monkeying around" bug bit me again today. So installed the 117.5 main jet. It is impossible to predict results with any degree of accuracy so I was a bit apprehensive. I havent had a chance to take it out on the highway and open it up, I will update the report tomorrow. The exhaust note has become overly ripe, the bike doesnt rev as eagerly as it did before. A large part of my bike's kms are put on in speeds in excess of 90, so I need to see if I like it up there.
Raj,

Great pics there. You're right. There is overlap between the different circuits. But, as the overlap is negligible, so people generally discount the overlapping. Case in point is the fact that your pilot will meter a very small quantity of fuel at WOT thus making it a negligible factor contributing to the overall richness of leanness of the mixture. Thus, you can't really attribute rich running at WOT to a rich pilot. You are running a 17.5 pilot, one which results in about 15% more fuel flow than the 15 pilot. This in turn will affect the number of turns needed to achieve the perfect setting. To compensate, a half or a full extra turn anti clockwise should do it for you. Follow the manual for exact instructions on how to adjust the pilot. Meanwhile, an easy way to check for that perfect idle mix is by pulling out your plug after idling for minute and checking it's color. You will get a chocolate brown color if your idle & pilot circuit running just right. This is by far the easiest plug chop to do. Also, during a cold start, you can feel a chilly carb when you touch it. This,along with water droplets/moisture in the exhaust is the sign of a perfectly tuned engine. As for your lumpy high speed response, it usually indicates a rich mixture. An free flow intake and a goldie should make 115 a treat with not too many vibes. Why do you want to plug the timing hole? Don't plug both the crankcase vent and the timing case vent. They are meant for the engine to blow by excess crankcase gases. If the vents are plugged, your engine oil will get contaminated and will affect critical parts.

Cheers,

Jay

Last edited by JayPrashanth : 23rd January 2010 at 20:40.
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Old 24th January 2010, 13:52   #28
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Raj,

Great pics there. You're right. There is overlap between the different circuits. But, as the overlap is negligible, so people generally discount the overlapping. Case in point is the fact that your pilot will meter a very small quantity of fuel at WOT thus making it a negligible factor contributing to the overall richness of leanness of the mixture. Thus, you can't really attribute rich running at WOT to a rich pilot. You are running a 17.5 pilot, one which results in about 15% more fuel flow than the 15 pilot. This in turn will affect the number of turns needed to achieve the perfect setting. To compensate, a half or a full extra turn anti clockwise should do it for you. Follow the manual for exact instructions on how to adjust the pilot. Meanwhile, an easy way to check for that perfect idle mix is by pulling out your plug after idling for minute and checking it's color. You will get a chocolate brown color if your idle & pilot circuit running just right. This is by far the easiest plug chop to do. Also, during a cold start, you can feel a chilly carb when you touch it. This,along with water droplets/moisture in the exhaust is the sign of a perfectly tuned engine. As for your lumpy high speed response, it usually indicates a rich mixture. An free flow intake and a goldie should make 115 a treat with not too many vibes. Why do you want to plug the timing hole? Don't plug both the crankcase vent and the timing case vent. They are meant for the engine to blow by excess crankcase gases. If the vents are plugged, your engine oil will get contaminated and will affect critical parts.

Cheers,

Jay
@Jay - The extra fuel supplied by the pilot at WOT is probably negligible, but the bike seems sensitive to even minor changes in carburetion. Past 4 turns out it emits smoke. The 117.5 main jet seems to have fattened the mid range a bit, at 80 the engine ticks over nicely in 5th, at 60 its a nice low burble. This also works great while negotiating fast sweepers where WOT is not possible, the fatter midrange gives me better control over the revs, I can drop it to a burble approaching the apex and crack it open it as soon as I am past the apex. Earlier the feeling was one of disengagement between engine and rider during a fast sweeper, I never felt assured enough to open part throttle in a sweeper due to the lack of engine feedback and yes i was scared of the burst of torque taking me out mid corner. My, this bike is so rewarding in the fast sweepers, all else is forgiven. I want to do a plug chop but I dont have a spark plug spanner, I need to buy the tool kit that comes with the bike, no one seems to be stocking plug spanners.

I observed that I had the throttle barely over half at 100+, I dont think I am at WOT even at top speed. Since this is a CV, it is possible the slide is all the way up, although the valve that is actuated by the cable is not fully open. I have my doubts if position of the slide can be determined with 100% accuracy based on the throttle position.

The main breather tube is going to stay, I am referring to the second tube that is meant to drain the oil that accumulates in the catch can into the timing case. This emulsion like condensate has moisture and acid compounds that are best not returned to the engine, instead the plan is to use the minimal amounts of oil to lubricate the chain. As a result I need to plug the hole on the inside of the timing case. The engine would continue to breathe through the main breather connected to the engine case. There is a third tube that connects the primary chain case to the catch can, dont know what the purpose of this is. With the main breather pipe being more upright, i dont see more than a couple of drops in the airbox, earlier it used to be 30 ml of orangish goo after a 100 km run. I was told by a prominent member on Bulletech that using an automtive PCV valve is not a good idea for a large single, the duckbill is better. The blowby from the combustion chamber will be routed back via the main breather - catch can onto the air box, so pollution control stays intact.

I like the short bottle, the goldstar needs to be an order of magnitude better sounding to my subjective ears for me to consider it. I havent had a chance to hear it yet, maybe soon. Someone in Hyderabad willing to give me an audition?

I suppose a bigger air filter(was planning to experiment by double deckering two stock filters, all it needs is a really long bolt) makes no sense unless the exhaust is freer flowing too. For now, I think I am good with the balance of the package. I will start the leg work for the Oil cooler mod this coming week.

I am a bit more apprehensive about the slight piston noise that has developed in the last couple of 100 kms, not entirely surprised as stories abound of pistons giving away with hard riding and I have put on about 1500 kms in 3 months . If reports on other forums are to be believed, the piston giving up is inevitable after 5-6k kms(mine is at 10,500 presently). The noise can be heard if one listens to it carefully at lower rpms, it disappears at higher revs. Should I wait for it to get worse or should I go ahead and replace it so as not to cause collateral damage. If the piston does give up, is the bore-kit replacement the only option? Has anyone out there explored other options?
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Old 24th January 2010, 15:38   #29
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@Jay - The extra fuel supplied by the pilot at WOT is probably negligible, but the bike seems sensitive to even minor changes in carburetion. Past 4 turns out it emits smoke. The 117.5 main jet seems to have fattened the mid range a bit, at 80 the engine ticks over nicely in 5th, at 60 its a nice low burble. This also works great while negotiating fast sweepers where WOT is not possible, the fatter midrange gives me better control over the revs, I can drop it to a burble approaching the apex and crack it open it as soon as I am past the apex. Earlier the feeling was one of disengagement between engine and rider during a fast sweeper, I never felt assured enough to open part throttle in a sweeper due to the lack of engine feedback and yes i was scared of the burst of torque taking me out mid corner. My, this bike is so rewarding in the fast sweepers, all else is forgiven. I want to do a plug chop but I dont have a spark plug spanner, I need to buy the tool kit that comes with the bike, no one seems to be stocking plug spanners.

I observed that I had the throttle barely over half at 100+, I dont think I am at WOT even at top speed. Since this is a CV, it is possible the slide is all the way up, although the valve that is actuated by the cable is not fully open. I have my doubts if position of the slide can be determined with 100% accuracy based on the throttle position.

The main breather tube is going to stay, I am referring to the second tube that is meant to drain the oil that accumulates in the catch can into the timing case. This emulsion like condensate has moisture and acid compounds that are best not returned to the engine, instead the plan is to use the minimal amounts of oil to lubricate the chain. As a result I need to plug the hole on the inside of the timing case. The engine would continue to breathe through the main breather connected to the engine case. There is a third tube that connects the primary chain case to the catch can, dont know what the purpose of this is. With the main breather pipe being more upright, i dont see more than a couple of drops in the airbox, earlier it used to be 30 ml of orangish goo after a 100 km run. I was told by a prominent member on Bulletech that using an automtive PCV valve is not a good idea for a large single, the duckbill is better. The blowby from the combustion chamber will be routed back via the main breather - catch can onto the air box, so pollution control stays intact.

I like the short bottle, the goldstar needs to be an order of magnitude better sounding to my subjective ears for me to consider it. I havent had a chance to hear it yet, maybe soon. Someone in Hyderabad willing to give me an audition?

I suppose a bigger air filter(was planning to experiment by double deckering two stock filters, all it needs is a really long bolt) makes no sense unless the exhaust is freer flowing too. For now, I think I am good with the balance of the package. I will start the leg work for the Oil cooler mod this coming week.

I am a bit more apprehensive about the slight piston noise that has developed in the last couple of 100 kms, not entirely surprised as stories abound of pistons giving away with hard riding and I have put on about 1500 kms in 3 months . If reports on other forums are to be believed, the piston giving up is inevitable after 5-6k kms(mine is at 10,500 presently). The noise can be heard if one listens to it carefully at lower rpms, it disappears at higher revs. Should I wait for it to get worse or should I go ahead and replace it so as not to cause collateral damage. If the piston does give up, is the bore-kit replacement the only option? Has anyone out there explored other options?
Raj,

I concur with you about the LB500 in stock form being very sensitive to slight changes in carburation. A free-er flowing filter would make it a lot less sensitive, especially with the pilot jet. Meanwhile, stacking up two filters imho isn't a good idea since the air box capacity isn't being increased. Do you have feedback from owners who have actually carried out this mod. I'd love to hear more feedback about this. About the spark plug spanner, try buying the generic ones that are sold by tools dealers. You'll find the right size if you take a plug along.

Don't worry about the condensate accumulating and going back. Once the catch can fills up, the condensate will be routed to the air box. The LB500s unlike the CIs don't create enough reverse pressure to pull back the condensate into the engine. Best option is to get a duckbill or a bunn breather kit. The IV fluid bags also work very well.

It appears that you're running on the richer side. And this is good. Usually, you should get a proper kick from 3/4th to WOT. This brings us back to square one. The LB500 has a very restrictive intake and this directly reflects on the carburation. Lots of people complain about nothing happening after 50/60% throttle opening.

The piston giving up after 5-6K kms is utter crap. That used be the case due to defective batches of CI500/535 pistons, 535s in particular. The New Zealanders and Aussies in particular had this issue, till they totally shunned Indian made pistons and started patronizing the forged items of JP Pistons. The AVLs hold up really well, when it comes to hard riding affecting piston life. And hard running means continuous WOT runs for 50+ kms. Such kinda abuse is possible only by the firangs with freeways where they don't need to touch brake for ages. You ride like that, there is plenty of stuff that'll say "Thanks I've had enough" before the piston says goodbye. First of all, are you sure that your piston is making noise. More often than not, we the AVLers get deceived/spooked by the plethora of noises that make their way across the engine. Worst case, if you have a piston that has to be replaced, go big bore if you have the money. Hitchcocks are now carrying a forged 535cc piston with a matched alloy barrel for the LB500. You can go for a rebore but I doubt getting a good job by most local machine shops and yeah does RE offer a oversize piston?. Best option is to buy a cylinder kit.

Cheers,

Jay
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Old 24th January 2010, 20:19   #30
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Raj,

I concur with you about the LB500 in stock form being very sensitive to slight changes in carburation. A free-er flowing filter would make it a lot less sensitive, especially with the pilot jet. Meanwhile, stacking up two filters imho isn't a good idea since the air box capacity isn't being increased. Do you have feedback from owners who have actually carried out this mod. I'd love to hear more feedback about this. About the spark plug spanner, try buying the generic ones that are sold by tools dealers. You'll find the right size if you take a plug along.

I dont know of anyone who has implemented the double decker, but it is such a cheap experiment, I say why not. I will have to find a way to restrain the box lid while I test it but there are no other concerns really. Assuming it works, a hole would be required in the lid and a bump welded to accomodate the extra length. It might be a little more complicated than that as the lid is hinged.



Don't worry about the condensate accumulating and going back. Once the catch can fills up, the condensate will be routed to the air box. The LB500s unlike the CIs don't create enough reverse pressure to pull back the condensate into the engine. Best option is to get a duckbill or a bunn breather kit. The IV fluid bags also work very well.

I am slightly confused, the breather from the engine already vents into the catch can through a duckbill. Are you suggesting a second duckbill? If Yes where should I connect it? So the IV fluid bag collects the condensate that flows out of the catch can? Any idea as to the purpose of the 3rd tube that connects to the primary chain case? Why does the primary chain case need to be vented at all?

It appears that you're running on the richer side. And this is good. Usually, you should get a proper kick from 3/4th to WOT. This brings us back to square one. The LB500 has a very restrictive intake and this directly reflects on the carburation. Lots of people complain about nothing happening after 50/60% throttle opening.

Thats sounds like mine and yes I want it to run rich so it can tolerate higher operating temparatures. However, I am a little unsure if the rest of the machine is upto it in tolerating the kind of performance I am desiring, I am back to square one in more ways than one


The piston giving up after 5-6K kms is utter crap. That used be the case due to defective batches of CI500/535 pistons, 535s in particular. The New Zealanders and Aussies in particular had this issue, till they totally shunned Indian made pistons and started patronizing the forged items of JP Pistons. The AVLs hold up really well, when it comes to hard riding affecting piston life. And hard running means continuous WOT runs for 50+ kms. Such kinda abuse is possible only by the firangs with freeways where they don't need to touch brake for ages. You ride like that, there is plenty of stuff that'll say "Thanks I've had enough" before the piston says goodbye. First of all, are you sure that your piston is making noise. More often than not, we the AVLers get deceived/spooked by the plethora of noises that make their way across the engine. Worst case, if you have a piston that has to be replaced, go big bore if you have the money. Hitchcocks are now carrying a forged 535cc piston with a matched alloy barrel for the LB500. You can go for a rebore but I doubt getting a good job by most local machine shops and yeah does RE offer a oversize piston?. Best option is to buy a cylinder kit.

Oversize pistons specifically for the LB500 that will maintain the compression ration are not available. I guess rebore is an option only if oversize pistons are available to begin with. Oversize pistons are available for the CI500 but I dont think it can be used even if i am seeking a lower compression ratio. so the only option is the kit which cost about ~4k. The forged piston which should be stronger is 260 USD, I can buy two kits for the price of one piston, so the kit makes more sense. I wonder if anyone has been adventurous enough to try an oversize CI500 piston. Meanwhile i am very concerned if it is 100% safe to carryon with a piston that is potentially on its way out. I have already showed it to a mechanic, he agreed that there is some noise, but he also said all these machines feature some level of that noise. So we agreed to see how it goes after a few more kms, but the prognosis isnt good. I will find out from the brand store if they have the kit in stock which is unlikely. If they dont I am going to order one anyway.
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