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Old 5th October 2011, 10:04   #1906
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Default Re: Royal Enfield 500 Classic 4100 km Ownership Review

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Originally Posted by Leepower View Post
But Desert Storm doesn't have any chrome boss!!!

I understand it doesnt have chrome. i meant the engine and rims. hope i'm clear now.
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Old 5th October 2011, 15:14   #1907
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Originally Posted by sudipta View Post
Hello all,

I will be taking delivery of my C5 Chrome next week. It will be great if someone can provide me with a PDI checklist. Also any help with the accessories that I will require to be installed during the delivery will be great. I am unable to find any link in the official RE website for the accessories.
Here is a link where you can find some PDI tips for Classic 500:

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorb...-upgrades.html (PDI tips for the ENFIELD Classic 500, + suggestions on tire upgrades)

Apart from this I know for sure there were some posts by RANDHAWA and NAREN if I'm not mistaken in the earlier pages of the same thread, unable to figure out the exact page number.

Anyone else out there who remembers the exact page number from this thread for PDI tips?

(MODS: I'm not sure if it would be ok to ask this question here - I tried the advance search feature and didn't find any option to search for a specify match within the same thread - how do I do that?)
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Old 6th October 2011, 05:33   #1908
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Default Re: Royal Enfield 500 Classic 4100 km Ownership Review

Those of you who own a Royal Enfield EFI/UCE motorcycle need to check out the rubber fuel hose clamp when you start your bike in the morning.

On two occasions now I have found the hose to be leaking fuel where it connects to the fuel pump under the left side of the fuel tank.

It was easily fixed by simply tightening the clamps screw a bit.

The fuel injection system requires a fuel pressure of 2.94 bar (42 PSI) so if the hose connection is not tight an appreciable amount of fuel can be pumped out rather rapidly.

Not only is raw petrol on the outside of your engine a fire hazard but if the leak continues it will ruin your km/liter (MPG) numbers.
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Old 6th October 2011, 11:01   #1909
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Default Re: Royal Enfield 500 Classic 4100 km Ownership Review

I should add that after mentioning this on another forum it was pointed out to me that RE strongly suggests checking the tightness of the socket head cap screws that hold the fuel pump to the bottom of the fuel tank.

As I have not checked those I went out and did so. They were all very tight but I got to thinking about the other fuel hose clamp that is on the same rubber hose on the fuel injector end.

This clamp was installed with the screw head almost inaccessable for a normal screw driver so I stuck my finger against it to see if it was tight.

Although it was not leaking, the clamp moved!

I rotated the clamp so the screw would be more accessable and tightened it. Now, I will just hope that my "fixing it" didn't actually break it.

Last edited by ArizonaJim : 6th October 2011 at 11:02.
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Old 6th October 2011, 11:07   #1910
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Default Re: Royal Enfield 500 Classic 4100 km Ownership Review

When did you book it?
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Old 6th October 2011, 11:08   #1911
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Default Re: Royal Enfield 500 Classic 4100 km Ownership Review

Quote:
Originally Posted by sudipta View Post
Hello all,

I will be taking delivery of my C5 Chrome next week. It will be great if someone can provide me with a PDI checklist. Also any help with the accessories that I will require to be installed during the delivery will be great. I am unable to find any link in the official RE website for the accessories.
When did you book it?
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Old 6th October 2011, 12:54   #1912
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Default Re: Royal Enfield 500 Classic 4100 km Ownership Review

Nice to see the thread alive and kicking again.
And hoping it remains so.

One minor issue: There is a lot of increase in the vibrations ONLY in the right side front foot-peg of the bike. Its so bad, that at times its difficult to keep the foot on the peg, especially while accelerating. On visual examination it all looks fine and tight, so why suddenly there is so much increase in the vibration? any clue?
Just to add, Recently got the entire throttle body and injector replaced for which the bike was at service station for about 2 weeks. and this issue is cropped up after that.
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Old 6th October 2011, 13:27   #1913
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Default Re: Royal Enfield 500 Classic 4100 km Ownership Review

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Originally Posted by Tommie View Post
When did you book it?

Initially had booked Tblue in the month of august. but thats cancellled now. the new booking on Oct 1st. hence again need to wait for another 8 months.
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Old 6th October 2011, 13:55   #1914
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Default Re: Royal Enfield 500 Classic 4100 km Ownership Review

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Originally Posted by smoghe View Post
@Randhawa - I agree these are not major issues at all. In fact the handle lock issues is solved. The RE technician had applied some lubricating spray which took some time to act. Had gone down for one last ride before the long vacation and this time around it worked smoothly - I guess it was never used and had probably gathered rust.

@si1ver0ne - thanks for the wishes and the caution.
RE bikes have self healing powers Talking about issues, you should see the new Classic bikes rear number plate at the showroom and then have a look at yours. Let me know if you can spot the difference.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sudipta View Post
Hello all,

I will be taking delivery of my C5 Chrome next week. It will be great if someone can provide me with a PDI checklist. Also any help with the accessories that I will require to be installed during the delivery will be great. I am unable to find any link in the official RE website for the accessories.
Dont remember all of it but here you go PDI list;

1. Start with visually inspecting the whole bike- from bodywork to rims tyres- anything hanging, out of place, damaged, dented, rusting at the welding joints or repaired(transit damaged) painted parts like fuel tank, mudguard .

2. Check the front fork sleeves(which covers the forks top length) clearance between the front mudguard. If clearance is not equal between booth the sleeves and the mudguard then it will scuff and damage the paint work on mudguard/sleeves.

3. Check for all the electrical parts .e.g. headlight high/low beam- high beam pass, indicators, horns, brake light switch -front and rear, parking light, EStart. Also check the indication light in the speedo- neutral light, high beam and indicator.

4. Apply the front and rear brake to check out the effectiveness and any odd noise from front or rear brake while braking.

5. Check your tool kit if its complete or not.

6. Take the key and match the serial number on the key with the lock serial no of the rear LHS electrical/storage box. The no will be on the outside where you insert the key into the lock. Also check working of all the locks on the bike with same key.

7. Check the chain slack while sitting on centre stand and then off it. Should not be more then 1.5 inch while on the centre stand.

8. After starting the bike, check for any exhaust leaks at the head where the down pipe is attached and at the exhaust/down pipe joint. Also for any white smoke from the exhaust.

9. Check for any oil leaks from the engine-rocker covers, side covers- rear shock absorbers and front. Don't worry if you see a bit of oil under the RHS engine cover. It will be form the chain.

10. After engine has warmed up for a couple of minutes- the tick tick noise of the auto de-compressor should stop. Check the idling is stable and not erratic(jumping up/down). Starting should be smooth and not take more then one crank to start(not more the 3 seconds to start)

11. Take a ride on the bike and make sure you have a pillion rider as you need to see if you have rubbing issues of the rear tyre with the mudguard. Thats due to the bad alignment of the mudguard and sometimes of the rear tyre also.

12. While test riding, go through all the gears and brakes(F/R). Notice any abnormal noise or any hesitation in the engine response. Do check the exhaust for any white smoke or black while riding.

13. Check for any acid spill from the battery and the drain pipe from the battery is attached. First gen C5 use to come with exide batteries which had no drain pipe but new ones come with exide or FIemm batteries which have the drain pipe. Look for any spill damage on the engine cover under the battery

14. Check the accelerator cable- should not get stuck when turning left or right while on C stand. Check the choke cable for proper engagement and clutch cable is not too tight or too lose.

15. Check booth the springs present on the centre stand and engage the side stand. Should not take much effort to engage both the stands.

16. To check for any pre damage to the chassis front. Turn the handle bar left to right. It should turn equally to both the sides and not more or less at one side to other.

17. Handle should not be tight. To check this, lean the handle to one side wee bit and if it comes down fully then its fine. To check for loose handle, apply the front brake and rock the bike forward and backward. You will feel the play or noise if its too loose. You can also put it on C stand and while holding the handle firmly, ask you friend to grab the front forks and rock it forward / backward. Any play will be felt easily.

18. While on C stand, rotate the front wheel and check the run out of the tyre or at least any abnormal noise. Wheel should rotate freely and also check for front speedo is tight at the speedo hub and the speedo needle is moving smoothly .

19. To check the D.O.B of your bike, open up the LHS electrical box and you will find the green non- pollution sticker with the D.O.B on it. You can cross check the month with the chassis no.

20. By RE rule, your dealer should fill the fuel tank above reserve and the reserve light should go off. But most of the dealers steal the petrol money and give you only .5L(even less) to get you to the nearest petrol station. You can actually demand from him to fill up more then reserve as per company policy or else you should inform RE about it. After you fill her up, if the reserve light is still on then the fuel level indicator is faulty.


20. Accessories -

A) If you intent to ride solo without the rear seat then get the rear LHS guard(stay) changed to single pipe one.

B) Leg guard- as per your choice to what is available at your dealer.

c) Horns- You wont need changing as I feel the twin setup is awesome.

d) Alloys - If you want to kill the looks of a classic but each to its own..

e) RE embossed leather tool kit bag and side bags if you like them.

f) Bike cover- You can get one if you intent to ride your bike quite less. Cant use it when the bike is hot which it stays for hours at a stretch and not water proof. Has minimal dust protection.

G) Upswept exhaust - if you fancy the looks and heavier thump. It's attached to the down pipe and does not come with free flow down pipe anymore so you wont harm the engine during running in period.

H) Indicator shades- I personally dont like them but some do. Just like the one on the front head light.

@Jim- The fuel pipe itself has a quality issue and I would highly recommend to change it to a better quality one from a car. I think there is hardly anything left which hasn't been discussed on this thread about the C5. But thanks to your post, it will jog the memory of those who have forgotten it and for those who have not gone through the complete thread.

Issue with the fuel pipe is that it gets harder on the outside and develops cracks. Although it's a two layered pipe so wont split but due to it being getting harder, it shrinks a bit and the gets loosened up at the fuel pump nozzle. Remember it's a plastic part and too much tightening can break the fuel line nozzle. So it's better to change the pipe once or twice a year. Perhaps get a better quality fuel line hose and be done with it.

Last edited by Randhawa : 6th October 2011 at 14:00.
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Old 6th October 2011, 14:11   #1915
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@sudipta - not really a PDI, but to be on the safe side, do stock up a 2 ltr can filled with petrol. In my case I had to run around to arrange for the same in the middle of the night .

On my last ride, while going down the slope of my basement parking, I heard a strange sound instead of the usual thump. Almost as if the engine missed a beat, similar to the sound you get while filling air in the tyre. Any idea what it could be? Will watch out for this the next time and provide more details.
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Old 6th October 2011, 14:54   #1916
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Default Re: Royal Enfield 500 Classic 4100 km Ownership Review

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Originally Posted by Randhawa View Post
Anastassia is getting treated royally. Got the remap, new 120 at rear+updated chain guard, a new updated handle bar and the new updated Upswept exhaust.
And yet, no pics whatsoever! Randhawa bai ji you know this thread of yours is THE place for C5 lovers, we need to see some pics soon

I am getting quite inclined to book one around diwali, circumstances permitting. It's actually a big relief knowing that you are nearby, so I know who to trouble

BTW, which showroom did you get the C5 delivered from, the Chd sec 27 one?

Last edited by avisidhu : 6th October 2011 at 14:57.
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Old 6th October 2011, 23:17   #1917
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Default Re: Royal Enfield 500 Classic 4100 km Ownership Review

Thanks a ton Randhawa for all your help. Do keep listing down if you remember of any thing else. I still have to painfully wait till atleast 11th Oct when I am back at Hyd to take the delivery.

Also thanks to Smoghe for the tip, I will surely keep that in mind.

BTW, I will be taking delivery if 2 identical C5 Chrome, one for self and one for my collegue so will keep a couple of hours in hand before I set out for the RE brand shop.
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Old 7th October 2011, 00:25   #1918
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Default Re: Royal Enfield 500 Classic 4100 km Ownership Review

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Originally Posted by Randhawa View Post
G) Upswept exhaust - if you fancy the looks and heavier thump. It's attached to the down pipe and does not come with free flow down pipe anymore so you wont harm the engine during running in period.
does that mean, the new upswept is no longer free flow..?
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Old 7th October 2011, 04:43   #1919
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Default Re: Royal Enfield 500 Classic 4100 km Ownership Review

@ nasirkaka

At the top of the cylinder on the back side is a metal strut that connects the engine to the frame.
If the strut is broken or the mechanic forgot to tighten the fasteners at both ends, engine vibration will be very noticeable.

If these fasteners are tight, try loosening them. Start the engine for a moment and turn it off. Then, re-tighten the fasteners.

Hopefully your bikes vibration problem will be solved.
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Old 7th October 2011, 14:52   #1920
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Default Re: Royal Enfield 500 Classic 4100 km Ownership Review

Thanks Randhawa for your passion and spirit of helping out fellow RE bike lovers.

I need a small favour from you (as you are the right person) and I am sure you would like to help me out. I want you to test-ride the new Desert Storm version and share your review again.

Bit of my background.

I read you thread long long time back and thought RE is not my bike even at its present form (I had terrible experience with my RE Electa 4 Gear as it had engine overheating problems in slow traffic, the bike used to stop and never used to start back until it got cooled). I sold this bike and made a promise 'never again'.

After seeing the new classic especially the 500cc variant, it drew my attention again and after learning from your experience, i again drifted away....

I learned that RE has launched the new Desert Storm variant with some minor changes, changed a bit here and there especially the bike's geometry, remapped ECU, suspension, front tyre spec etc. could you tell me (after you test-ride it) if it solves most of your problems? or do the problems you faced still exist.

Post your review I wish to decide to book it or drift again!!

Cheers

Last edited by Jaggu : 7th October 2011 at 14:57. Reason: Dotty post, please use proper punctuation instead of typing like this.... Thanks.
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