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Old 14th November 2011, 14:43   #2086
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Default Re: Royal Enfield 500 Classic 4100 km Ownership Review

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Originally Posted by NST440 View Post
(He started the bike without using the clutch and pushed the starter button)-I Asked him isn't it recommended & necessary to use the clutch while starting & further more we should do declutching too.
You need to use the clutch while starting only when the bike is in gear.It is not required when in neutral.

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I asked him whether according to the manual the front & rear tyre pressure of 22ps & 32ps is accurate or not as every tyre wala suggests 25ps (F) & 35ps(R).
I run the recommended 20psi in front and 30psi at the rear. I hardly ever have a pillion.

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I asked about the running in period precautions & max speeds to achieve till 2000 Kms.I further asked if i should wait for installing the upswept silencer till 2000 Kms or get it done no only.
The company approved accessory silencer can be fitted on the bike straight out of the showroom.
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Old 14th November 2011, 15:14   #2087
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Default Re: Royal Enfield 500 Classic 4100 km Ownership Review

@Navpreet- You are getting me wrong, what I am emphasising on is the fact that if you do not care or think that running in is a myth(at least for air cooled Indian bikes) and ride like you want to brake the engine then there are consequences. The lot I am talking about had 2 trips to Leh and every trip they had to open up the engine. I will blame the rider and not doing the running in for that, not the bike. I have literally lived in the RE workshop for one year and it was horrid to learn about the bikes story. It was to much of a shock to believe so I actually checked their barrels and measured their rings to understand what had happened and why. Most of them had their spacer ring between the oil ring in pieces.

@Naresh- Every new owner most probably goes through what you are going through right now. That is "Worrying" too much and getting over protected. This behaviour can lead to problems which do not exist.

If you did a long stretch and you had variation in your speed then all is well. You can touch 120 now and it wont kill your bike but resist the temptation. Keep it under 90 for 2k, speed up 100+ and get the oil changed at 2250k. Then ride however you like.

Clean up the oil window and see if it again gets moist. Unless it's not dripping then you shouldn't worry.

Don't need the injector cleaner in just 400km. Now you see, getting over protected No you don't fill the tank with whole 350ml bottle. Thats for a tank full of a car fuel tank and probably not even that.

Last edited by Randhawa : 14th November 2011 at 15:21.
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Old 14th November 2011, 15:25   #2088
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Smile Re: Royal Enfield 500 Classic 4100 km Ownership Review

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Originally Posted by Randhawa View Post
@Naresh- Every new owner most probably goes through what you are going through right now. That is "Worrying" too much and getting over protected. This behaviour can lead to problems which do not exist.

If you did a long stretch and you had variation in your speed then all is well. You can touch 120 now and it wont kill your bike but resist the temptation. Keep it under 90 for 2k, speed up 100+ and get the oil changed at 2250k. Then ride however you like.

Clean up the oil window and see if it again gets moist. Unless it's not dripping then you shouldn't worry.

Don't need the injector cleaner in just 400km. Now you see, getting over protected No you don't fill the tank with whole 350ml bottle. Thats for a tank full of a car fuel tank and probably not even that.
Thanks. I agree about the tendency to worry and be overprotective.

Thank you for your patience with the never ending list of questions. Sincerely appreciate the time you invest.
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Old 14th November 2011, 16:20   #2089
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Default Re: Royal Enfield 500 Classic 4100 km Ownership Review

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Thanks. I agree about the tendency to worry and be overprotective.
I tried breaking-in my machismo in 2008, precisely by the Manuel. The issue was, when in Bangalore kind of mad traffic, one cant avoid overheating the engine. The engine is still running smooth, and vibrations are much subdued.

For my C5, i took a different approach. During the initial days, i use to specifically take the bike out on the highway, just for breaking it in. On a highway, i could do what i intended to do, and not what the traffic around me forced me to do. Use to run the bike at various speeds, in various gears, with frequent chai breaks to cool down. with little effort and good pair of ears, one can learn to understand what the bike says. Its equally important to take the cues from the bike and progress then blindly follow the running-in as prescribed in the Manuel. Its like carving a form from a block of wood using chisel, mallet, rasps, files, various grades of sandpapers, and sander belts, etc. Its important to take the cues from the job, and progress forward, trying to achieve the desired form and finish.

Being overprotective during running-in could also lead to issues. We may run the bike at a particular rpm band for too long, trying to maintain the specified speed, which may result in excessive material wear/change, hampering the movements other RPMs. Running in is not just about pistons and sleeves, its also about thousands of other moving parts in the bike's internals and externals. With modern engineering tolerances, the parts are much more precise, but again we are talking about RE here. They are capable of causing interferences even with precise gears, somehow. The bikes of today are certainly much more refined then the bikes of 60s, but that does not completely rule-out the running-in, however the duration may have decreased.
Unless the parts are floating in space without touching each-other to obtain ZERO friction, some degree of proper running-in will most likely produce positive results.

Last edited by nasirkaka : 14th November 2011 at 16:30.
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Old 14th November 2011, 18:34   #2090
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Default Re: Royal Enfield 500 Classic 4100 km Ownership Review

Randhawa-

RaceDynamics aftermarket ECU for the Royal Enfield Classic UCE 500 EFI: All you need to know! | IndianCarsBikes.in

Your thoughts on the above please.
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Old 14th November 2011, 20:29   #2091
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Default Re: Royal Enfield 500 Classic 4100 km Ownership Review

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Originally Posted by Randhawa View Post
Most of them had their spacer ring between the oil ring in pieces.
Any pictures please?

Regards
Sutripta
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Old 14th November 2011, 22:12   #2092
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Default Re: Royal Enfield 500 Classic 4100 km Ownership Review

nasirkaka, i agree with you to a large extent. this whole thing about running in and because its an re product is a whole load of bull.

fill it, shut it, rip it!

forget running in and related issues. if at all its only the first 100 kms that might matter.

its quite tiring to keep reading the same overly concerned posts about the bike like its a living baby! chill guys.

i have 2 enfields and both have clocked in excess of 10k kms and never did i run them in nor did i go about cleaning and caring for them with a velvet cloth. both are performing admirably and reliably. also neither did i take it to any private garage to any specialized tuner nor did i do a do-it-yourself from tips on team-bhp. i have been giving it to an authorized service center and job is being done absolutely fine.

as long as we keep nitpicking and using an electron microscope where magnifying glass would be in excess, there will be no peace. we can preach all what we need here and advice all what we know, the best way is to keep it simple silly!

things have gotten so so complex here and so involved in manufacturer and dealer bashing so much so that we have simple forgotten how to enjoy a simple and straight bike ride.
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Old 15th November 2011, 15:14   #2093
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Default Re: Royal Enfield 500 Classic 4100 km Ownership Review

Few questions for the experts:

1.I'd like to understand what increases engine oil consumption in a motorcycle. I have been using my C5 in the city for the most part. (clocked 5800kms so far) On a recent trip from Bangalore to Coorg, I noticed that the engine oil level had fallen to almost half capacity over the span of 3 days/700 kms. I'd checked the oil before leaving and it was near full. What gives??

2. On the same trip, I had set the rear shocks preload to the maximum height. My wife was riding pillion, and I had the Cramster packed to full. In addition, I had secured a full backpack to the rear handrail, resting over the numberplate. In all, payload would have been close to 160 kg. But the clearance seemed insufficient for the rear stock tyre. What does one do to increase clearance on the stock setup for these fully loaded trips?

3. Does synthetic engine oil add any extra value on the C5? If so, when is the right time (in odo reading) to make the switch to synth?

4. How often do you lube the chain? And what are the bare minimum self maintenance practices recommended between the regular services, even when nothing is amiss?

5. Rusting issues: What do you do about them? What do you use for chrome parts/nuts/bolts to eliminate rust/protect from rust?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 16th November 2011, 02:51   #2094
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Default Re: Royal Enfield 500 Classic 4100 km Ownership Review

I don't own a C500, but I do have a 1978 Bullet 350 and my brother owns a UCE Electra. Increased engine oil consumption means there might be something wrong with the engine. Just get your engine inspected.
Now, about the rust issue. All the new RE bikes are prone to it. My bro's 2010 UCE electra already has rust spots, but my 78 Bull is still rust free. Just spray some WD40 all over the nuts, bolts and stuff, but please don't spray it on your brakes or tyre. And after riding in wet conditions just wipe your bike dry, people might call you crazy, but just do it. And during rainy season, use indoor parking and use a cover made of cloth, not polythene or plastic [that is only good if you are parking your bike outside in the rain]. Cloth is a breathable material and it doesn't hold moisture. Plastic and other stuff traps moisture and rust crops up all over. Even if you are using a plastic cover, remove the cover at times...


Now what exactly is this off-road silencer??? Is it that one with the upward sweep???
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Old 16th November 2011, 09:15   #2095
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Default Re: Royal Enfield 500 Classic 4100 km Ownership Review

Talking about Rust, my 15 day old Classic Chrome has rust developing. The most visible is on the Headlamp screw on top of the rim. The bike has been kept as bone dry as possible and well cleaned.

What is WD40 and where do you get it? Is there a brand?

I guess up-swept silencer they show on the brochures of CL500 is the off-road silencer. The reason I say this is because the regular long silencer almost protrudes behind the wheel and has a tendency to rub against any big object immediately after the bike passes it. For example if you ride a step down (on steps) on the bike the silencer will rub against the step once the real wheel has passed the step. All 500's with long silencers may have some minor dents/scratches under the silencer near the tail of the bulged portion. I had a standard 350 for a long time and I never experienced it.

Since on silencer, one question: Why is CL shipped with long silencer when the option of up-swept is available. What are the real technical differences? Can anyone advice? Thanks.
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Old 16th November 2011, 10:35   #2096
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Default Re: Royal Enfield 500 Classic 4100 km Ownership Review

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Since on silencer, one question: Why is CL shipped with long silencer when the option of up-swept is available. What are the real technical differences? Can anyone advice? Thanks.
The stock silencer has a much better catalytic convertor and noise reduction properties. Hence less air and noise pollution as dictated by our emmission norms. I believe these only apply to vehicles being sold currently. Once the vehicle has been sold, the buyer is free to replace the silencer with an upswept one as long as the new silencer is able to pass a PUC.

Its similar to the saree guard situation on bikes. Companies have to sell their bikes with one on it, but once someone buys it, they are free to remove it.
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Old 16th November 2011, 10:47   #2097
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Default Re: Royal Enfield 500 Classic 4100 km Ownership Review

Rusting is old issue, i used to polish(chrome) my Machismo every weekend and for sometime it was a regular routine but once stopped the rust appears again...
apparently its not the same case with my lightning, though has less chrome plated parts. guess older finish quality was better...
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Old 16th November 2011, 15:28   #2098
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Default Re: Royal Enfield 500 Classic 4100 km Ownership Review

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What is WD40 and where do you get it? Is there a brand?
It's a water displacing spray. The US army used to use it on Atlas Missiles to prevent it from rusting. Anyways it is available in most hardware stores. Just get it and spray liberally when you are storing your bike. It doesn't affect the paint too. But it gathers a lot of dust, which can be washed off. Warning: Don't let it fall on the brakes or chain.

A cheaper version called Zoraca will also do the trick...

Rust after 15 days is nothing new, I saw brand new Classic 500s which were being taken out of a container having rust spots on their chassis. Asked the guys at the lone RE dealer in Pune and they said it's normal...
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Old 16th November 2011, 17:29   #2099
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Default Re: Royal Enfield 500 Classic 4100 km Ownership Review

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Originally Posted by reswaran View Post
Few questions for the experts:

1.I'd like to understand what increases engine oil consumption in a motorcycle. I have been using my C5 in the city for the most part. (clocked 5800kms so far) On a recent trip from Bangalore to Coorg, I noticed that the engine oil level had fallen to almost half capacity over the span of 3 days/700 kms. I'd checked the oil before leaving and it was near full. What gives??

2. On the same trip, I had set the rear shocks preload to the maximum height. My wife was riding pillion, and I had the Cramster packed to full. In addition, I had secured a full backpack to the rear handrail, resting over the numberplate. In all, payload would have been close to 160 kg. But the clearance seemed insufficient for the rear stock tyre. What does one do to increase clearance on the stock setup for these fully loaded trips?

3. Does synthetic engine oil add any extra value on the C5? If so, when is the right time (in odo reading) to make the switch to synth?

4. How often do you lube the chain? And what are the bare minimum self maintenance practices recommended between the regular services, even when nothing is amiss?

5. Rusting issues: What do you do about them? What do you use for chrome parts/nuts/bolts to eliminate rust/protect from rust?

Thanks in advance!
Ok I'll have a shot at all 5.
1. There could be lots of influencing factors in your oil consumption but I think question 2 answers question 1. Your bike is used to light low rpm town work then you load it to the extreme and put it on the highway. It's only 500cc so its cylinder pressures would've been as high as load can get them, plus all the revs you can muster. Simply put, your rings, though undamaged, were pushed beyond their sealing ability in both directions and the oil escaped into the combustion chamber and was burnt.

2. The normal approach is not to try to gain more suspension travel by extended shockies, but rather to buy stiffer ones that behave as if 160kg is more like 75kg. furthermore you should be able to find progressive ones in which the resistance multiplies the more they compress. Great for handling I hear. Try Hitchcocks UK.

3. Synthetic is better, and dearer. Switch anytime after first service. It might improve the engine life a little but not the resale value of the bike.

4. Chains under clean riding conditions lube every 1000km or when it starts looking a little dry. C5s require a lot of checking and visual inspection. Doing this regularly you will find the trouble spots. A few are mentioned in the owners manual. I check mine every weekend before I do about 4hrs riding. I can give you a list if you like but it will be long.

5. Rust is cancer. Once it starts it takes a miracle cure to stop. Best cure is prevention. Keep everything dry, salt free and pollished with an oilly rag like an old english steam engine. I dry wash my bikes with a duster, a damp rag, and a dry rag with detailling wax. No garden hoses. I also coated a few problem nuts and bolts with tectyl, a waxy thick corrosion sealent. Lastly I changed the battery to a sealled gel type because vented electrolyte batteries in your bike are like radio atcive plutonium rods in your body. Even if you never spill a drop cancer will begin nearby and spread. There is a product available here in Aus called rust converter, it chemically takes rust molecules and re-arranges them into a non-cancerous form of iron oxide which can be cleaned away.
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Old 16th November 2011, 21:20   #2100
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Default Re: Royal Enfield 500 Classic 4100 km Ownership Review

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Originally Posted by nareshtrao View Post
Talking about Rust, my 15 day old Classic Chrome has rust developing. The most visible is on the Headlamp screw on top of the rim. The bike has been kept as bone dry as possible and well cleaned.
The screws are sourced from other vendors. I have seen similar rusting issues with new Honda CBR250 too.
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