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Old 23rd November 2011, 19:03   #2131
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

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@ Naresh. I called them up and got confirmation that payment was collected on the basis of number list. The bike got billed from factory and they received bike only three days back. he will try to push it this week or else next week it seems. So long wait continues.
This is a peculiar problem with Brand Store as they belong to RE. They bill and then dispatch bikes from factory.

In case of dealers, the billing is done only after the arrival of stocks. In my case I looked at the options, selected the one I wanted, noted down the Number and paid the advance. This was Teknik Motors. Next day billing happened and the registration too even though it was Diwali day (RTO was open half a day).

I hope you get yours soon. Very soon.....
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Old 24th November 2011, 11:47   #2132
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Hello all,

I got delivery of my black classic 500 yesterday. I have always dreamt of owning one and yesterday finally the dream came true. Will start my ownership and experience thread soon.

Had a small query. Last night after a 20 kms ride i parked the bull and slept off. Today morning i saw good amt of oil arnd there. Pic attached.

Something i need to worry about or it is normal?

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Old 24th November 2011, 12:09   #2133
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

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Hello all,

I got delivery of my black classic 500 yesterday. I have always dreamt of owning one and yesterday finally the dream came true. Will start my ownership and experience thread soon.

Had a small query. Last night after a 20 kms ride i parked the bull and slept off. Today morning i saw good amt of oil arnd there. Pic attached.

Something i need to worry about or it is normal?

Attachment 846839
This is not normal at all. Even CI bullets do not leak so much oil. I think they have not tightened the Oil drain nut properly. take to service station immediately. show them the picture. And top up the oil if required. Not surprised with blunders at service center.
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Old 24th November 2011, 12:33   #2134
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

smoghe, this is happening for long, about 8years back i had left my machismo for service and when i when in evening to pick the bike same ting happened, had to take the bike without getting the service done.. and something similar happend with my 535 aswel..

so i stopped going there and looked for alternative, for the same reason many have stopped going there..

@harshal welcome to the world of RE, it will take some time for you to get used to the niggles and fix them.

btw my classic500 is due next month, am not sure about the color yet. have booked black but i like the maroon better...
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Old 24th November 2011, 20:10   #2135
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

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Originally Posted by h@r$h@l View Post
Hello all,

I got delivery of my black classic 500 yesterday. I have always dreamt of owning one and yesterday finally the dream came true. Will start my ownership and experience thread soon.

Had a small query. Last night after a 20 kms ride i parked the bull and slept off. Today morning i saw good amt of oil arnd there. Pic attached.

Something i need to worry about or it is normal?
Dude, did you park your gaadi on side-stand for the whole night??? My '78 Bullet also sprouts oil if you park it on the side stand. Use centre stand for long-term parking and side stand for short ones... This tip was given to me by a Bull expert some time back

Last edited by Leepower : 24th November 2011 at 20:14.
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Old 24th November 2011, 20:41   #2136
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

side stand or not... a brand new bike should not be leaking as such.
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Old 25th November 2011, 04:19   #2137
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

click:
I agree.
The new UCE powered RE's don't leak oil like the older Iron barrels of yesteryear.

h@r$h@l:
It looks like less than 250ml of oil has leaked out but I recommend that you put the motorcycle on the centerstand and check the oil level in the sight window on the right side of the engine before you ride it.
The oil level should be between the two lines.

Notice that if the motorcycle is not parked on a level place, that oil level in the sight window can vary greatly. For instance, if the motorcycle is leaning just slightly to the left you won't see any oil in the window at all. Likewise, if the motorcycle is leaning slightly to the right, the window will appear to be totally full.

If the motorcycle is parked on the centerstand on a level surface and no oil at all appears in the window you should add a small amount until some oil is visable.
It doesn't take much oil to raise the level in the window so be careful. Too much oil in the engine is almost as bad as too little.
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Old 25th November 2011, 04:21   #2138
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

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Originally Posted by Leepower View Post
Dude, did you park your gaadi on side-stand for the whole night??? My '78 Bullet also sprouts oil if you park it on the side stand. Use centre stand for long-term parking and side stand for short ones... This tip was given to me by a Bull expert some time back
I am sure this has nothing to do with the Side stand and for sure you need to get your Bike checked. i rarely use the main stand on my ancient bullet.
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Old 25th November 2011, 10:54   #2139
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

@ h@r$h@l, have a look beneath the engine & see if you can locate a leaky point- area. Not that you'll find an exact place or cause but the effort is a part of enfield ownership- get to know your bike

@ Leepower, so you didn't find why it leaks? would like to know logic behind that interesting tip, anything specific to old-er bullets like parking the piston at TDC? My Ci350 used to drip while on side stand & i could trace back to a (bit) loose g'box sprocket nut.
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Old 25th November 2011, 16:33   #2140
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

I was thinking of a few options with regards to the classic 500's rear-end, more specifically with the taillight cluster.

One thing I contemplated was cutting the mudguard to just above the light housing and then affixing a smaller more integrated cluster just below the rear seat. The result would be more Tyre visibility (albeit the possibility of mud and dirt hitting the backside of the pillion) and a slightly slimmer rear, not so sure about how it would look though.

How important is the support rod at the rear in terms of structural integrity? Refer to the pic below to see which one I am talking about:

The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!-supportrod.jpg
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Old 25th November 2011, 18:01   #2141
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Got my C5 Black today...Thanks to Randhawa and Nasir for PDI tips. Spent good one hour to complete the checks. Two issues were found:
1. Front Mud guard touching sleeve on the right side, it was a faint touch but I could see some white scratches which can be mistaken for wax. Got it sorted out at the service center.
2. Rear brakes werent effective which were adjusted by tightening the screw new rear wheel mount. It got better but not satisfactory.

Rode the bike a petrl bunk and got it filled but I realized that it was asking for lot of effort for pushing the bike. Put the bike on C stand and checked, rear wheel was jammed but I chose to ride it to home which was less than a km away. It was too hot to touch anything near the rear wheel. Has it got something to do with tightening of the screw to adjust the brakes?
I am thinking it is because both the wheels were rotating freely when checked during PDI but the break adjustment was done in the end and I forgot to check it again. I will go to my parking after a couple of hours and check it again. Please let me know if there are any tips to fix it.

Thanks in advance.

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Originally Posted by rajanvash View Post
Got my C5 Black today...Thanks to Randhawa and Nasir for PDI tips. Spent good one hour to complete the checks. Two issues were found:
1. Front Mud guard touching sleeve on the right side, it was a faint touch but I could see some white scratches which can be mistaken for wax. Got it sorted out at the service center.
2. Rear brakes werent effective which were adjusted by tightening the screw new rear wheel mount. It got better but not satisfactory.

Rode the bike a petrl bunk and got it filled but I realized that it was asking for lot of effort for pushing the bike. Put the bike on C stand and checked, rear wheel was jammed but I chose to ride it to home which was less than a km away. It was too hot to touch anything near the rear wheel. Has it got something to do with tightening of the screw to adjust the brakes?
I am thinking it is because both the wheels were rotating freely when checked during PDI but the break adjustment was done in the end and I forgot to check it again. I will go to my parking after a couple of hours and check it again. Please let me know if there are any tips to fix it.

Thanks in advance.
By the way, Date of Installation is 11-11-11, hand written on the sticker near the tool kit.

Last edited by v12 : 27th November 2011 at 22:20.
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Old 25th November 2011, 18:44   #2142
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Fat chance that the rear drum brake shoe is burning because of over tightening. Check that first by loosening the nut you tightened in the first place!

Cheers,

Jay
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Old 25th November 2011, 21:10   #2143
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

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Fat chance that the rear drum brake shoe is burning because of over tightening. Check that first by loosening the nut you tightened in the first place!

Cheers,

Jay

Thanks for your note Jay.

Its correct...I loosened the screw and could rotate the rear wheel freely. Now the question is, why rear brake is not biting enough...may be this is how it is on RE. I will check it on other C5s tomorrow when I go to Brandstore.
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Old 26th November 2011, 03:52   #2144
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

I always adjust the rear brake while the motorcycle is on the center stand.

Turn the nut clockwise (aft looking forward) a few clicks, turn the wheel. Turn the nut clockwise a few clicks, turn the wheel......

When the wheel shows a very slight drag, back off the nut counterclockwise two clicks and it's done.

Whether one likes it or not, that's about as good as it's going to get at least at first.

As with all things on a brand new machine, there is some break in for the brakes so it is a good idea after riding a few hundred km to recheck the rear brake adjustment using the same method I outlined above. The front disk brake is self adjusting so the only thing that needs to be done with it is to check the fluid level in the master cylinder by looking at the sight guage.

I know the riders in India like the rear brake but if the road is dry and not sandy, practice using the front brake.
It is much more powerful than the rear brake will ever be and on a good road surface it can stop the motorcycle from a speed of 100 kmph in a distance of 44 meters or less.

Last edited by ArizonaJim : 26th November 2011 at 03:55.
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Old 26th November 2011, 06:35   #2145
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

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brake but if the road is dry and not sandy, practice using the front brake.
It is much more powerful than the rear brake will ever be and on a good road surface it can stop the motorcycle from a speed of 100 kmph in a distance of 44 meters or less.
+1 to that - there was a time when Indian bikes had their brake lights coming on only on rear brake use, not any more though.
The problem is, as you have pointed out, one needs a good surface for front brake use. Quite often in India, that isn't so. And one can almost always recover from rear wheel skids - lose the front, and it almost certainly a fall. The other thing to remember is to stay away from front brakes when the bike is tilted over in a turn, use them in a turn and its very easy to meet the road intimately. So yes, front brakes first and the rears to just stabilize things, but only when upright, and be aware of the road surface.
A question regarding oil levels on the new REs, related to the fact that too many people usually have too much oil in their bikes, which then leak in different places due to oil seal failures. RE is to blame for this - if one fills according to the manual, one almost always overfills. And the AVL needed a lot less oil than the CI that preceded it, and some mechanics did not know this. Plus in those bikes after a few days of non use, the oil used to drain out of the oil tank, back into the sump. No issue with that, except a dry reading on the dip stick until the bike started up again, and that misleading reading was the cause of overfilling too.
Is this RE foible corrected by the UCE construction, and does the dip stick now give the correct reading even after leaving the bike alone and out of use for a few days?
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