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Old 7th April 2010, 11:45   #211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sawyer View Post
Remember, invisible electricity is largely a mystery to me! Hence the questions and here is another - when the battery is full the charging circuit is not producing electricity? How does the cut out happen? I assume that the electricity is produced by the rotation of the engine, so is there some thing that disconnects the rotation from the charging part of the bike, akin to a clutch for the mechanical disconnect? Because I thought the charging circuit produces electricity in the first place, on rereading your post, it says it does not. What does then?
I am sorry to intrude on the thread, it did not seem necessary to start another one when I started the questions!
My belief is that the coil does produce electricity at all times, but the regulator-rectifier circuit regulates the current sent to the battery depending on the battery's charge and the load.

Correct me if I am wrong.
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Old 7th April 2010, 14:14   #212
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Originally Posted by virtualhemant View Post
That's the know issue with C5. If you look at the front portion of the chain cover (towards engine), you will see that the chain is touching the upper part of chain guard from inside.
It is due to mis-alignment of chain cover. I got a replacement chain cover but the issue continued.
So I removed the chain cover and made it flat in the front (removed curve) also added spacer in the front nut of the chain guard to align it straight.
Would it be possible for you to post some pictures of the same? It would be of great help. Thanks for the suggestion anyways!
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Old 9th April 2010, 10:36   #213
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Thanks for all the reviews and comments.

Having read this thread hasn't put me off buying the Classic 500.

I have a Royal Enfield Machismo 500LB which has also had its fair share of problems, but the Classic 500 is such a stunning bike (especially in blue/green colour) that I have to have one!

Unfortunately I have to wait at least six months for delivery, but I'm sure it will be worth waiting for.
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Old 11th April 2010, 22:44   #214
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Jay- I want to get Pirelli for front but any tyre with tread like Zapper FQ might take in nails hence I wanted to get the rear tyre with block design. I will have a look and see what I can get in Pirelli.

Essyouwe- It should work but hard to get the stuff in India. Dont want to go tubeless but can try the stuff in the tube. Any Idea if we can get that in India?

Rajit- Do you still have the older design chain cover? The new one is better but still hits the filter intake tube with pillion. Although if the chain cover is not aligned properly then it will hit the chain anyway. Do check if your chain is not loose.
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Old 15th April 2010, 21:59   #215
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Quick question:

What's the difference between the fuel injection systems in the Pulsar 220 DTSFi, R15 and the Classic 500?

The reason I ask, is that with the old P220, CO settings may be read and altered by the service centers when riders complain about the engine characteristic\mileage. I am assuming that this changes the AF ratio in the ECU. I am also assuming the P220 did not come with a closed loop FI system.

This raises the question, why isn't this possible with the C5's FI system?
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Old 16th April 2010, 22:21   #216
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I rode one for couple of kilometers last night. It was a RE Classic 500

1) No thump
2) Handle bar gets bad but strong vibes ( no puny vibes like you get when you hook up at 3V battery to a small DC motor );
3) Felt the seat to be higher than what I expected ( I used to ride A350)
4) Headlight not powerful ( not halogen ? )

Now +

A) Gear uplifts are very positive
B) You HAVE to experience the way it goes off at the twist of accelerator when you are in fifth! Just great
C) Expected more low end but guess I was playing safe
D) No jerk in any gear; love the way it pulls away from 1st if you want to race.
E) Nice brakes
D) ES !
F) Rear view didnt join the vibe gang I guess
G) Liked the sound when it overtakes you in high revs.

Costs 1.4lac OTR at Trivandrum.

Also, saw the Standard with UCE engine but didnt ride it.
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Old 17th April 2010, 01:50   #217
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Exclamation Idling Adjustment.

Hello folks,
One sad news to share,last weekend when I passionately took my C5 for a run,surprisingly after a while its idle speed raised to a much high & irritating level.
Pretty soon I had to switch it off at every signal,in order to avoid the ridiculing eyes of fellow bikers over my Classic 500's rattling.
However I then inspected the accelerator & choke wire & they appeared normal.Also took help of a local mechanic to inspect & fix the idling,but only after a few efforts in vein,he suggested me to take it to the service station.

Eventually I took my C5 to the showroom.which I normally do for issues that appear trivial.Mechanic over there played with a screw near the EFI,settling the idle speed to a lower note.When I raised my eye brows over the way EFI was treated rather than using a computerized device to set the idling,answer was bizarre "we don't have that device" followed by a theory that RE has trained us to fiddle a little with the tuning using that screw,else for more weird situations,EFI has to be treated at service station.

Idling was still on a higher side but the mechanic seemed to be OK & excused that it is because your bike's engine is warm.Anyway I thought to return with that setting as it was much better than before & decided to get it fully sorted to my satisfaction on next service(second),which is around 500 kms short.
However to my dismay,Bikes idling again reached to a higher level by the time I reached back home.I am too puzzled & to an extent unhappy the way this grand launch of RE is performing,issues seem to be never ending.
Now I have my eyes on the next service,which would probably sort the issue,in case they have that so called device.

Suggestions invited!
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Old 17th April 2010, 10:31   #218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terminator_47 View Post

Eventually I took my C5 to the showroom.which I normally do for issues that appear trivial.Mechanic over there played with a screw near the EFI,settling the idle speed to a lower note.When I raised my eye brows over the way EFI was treated rather than using a computerized device to set the idling,answer was bizarre "we don't have that device" followed by a theory that RE has trained us to fiddle a little with the tuning using that screw,else for more weird situations,EFI has to be treated at service station.
sorry to hear about the unstable idling however note that the idling on a c500 has to be set by a screwdriver and does not need any device, thats the design.
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Old 17th April 2010, 11:16   #219
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Hmmm even though a malfunctioning ECU is the most probably cause, do check the accelerator cable for play and free movement.

RE seems to have gone in too deep with the high tech.
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Old 17th April 2010, 19:15   #220
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@ Randhawa and group,

Here is sharing my experience and a few issues.

after a really long and extended, painful waiting period, got the delivery of my Classic 500 yesterday. As expected, NOT a very pleasant experience.


i did a visual inspection of the bike, and after getting a brief introduction to various parts, etc, by the showroom technician, i took her for a small spin.

The following are my observations:

* Leaking petrol (major leak) from under the petrol tank. (the place where the fuel sensor is placed. After inspection, it was found that the rubber O ring was cut.

* The front fork sleeve (the painted green cylinder), was touching and scraping the inner pipe. They said its a common issue, nothing much to worry about. I saw 3 more classics there and 2 of them had similar scratch marks. the third one was just downloaded from the truck.

* Poor handling: the paint was damaged at a couple of places. a few rust spots as well. A new pin welded to the Center stand after the stand was painted, hence one can see the burnt paint and carbon despot from welding, followed by rusting. They tried searching for the green "touch-up" paint, but could not locate it. Finally said that they will try and touch-it up at first service.

* Buffed Aluminium Primary chain cover (LH SIDE) had 3-4 black spots. they tried scrapping thinking it was some dirt, but the mark did not go. appeared like battery acid leak spots. Anyhow, they got some solution and scrapped it some how, but the surface is lost its Sheen and shine. They said, they will arrange to get the whole cover Buffed during first service. hope so, but i really doubt.

Went to the service station directly from the showroom.
* Got the petrol sensor tank mating O ring replaced.
* Got the sari guard removed and replaced with the normal curved pipe structure. (additional cost 490 Rs)
* Got the stock silencer replaced with the bent (off road)silencer.

A few question to the group:

* after a ride of approx 7 kms (from service station to home), the bike was REALLY hot. the primary chain cover, and the gear box block were so hot , that one could not even touch it for 1/4 of a second. I never experienced so much heating with my Machismo 350. The engine oil level in the transparent window seems to be perfect. Is this normal with the UCE 500 or there could be some issue with my bike?

* while in motion, and just holding the throttle stationary ( lets say maintaining 40 kmph with stationary throttle hold, in 3rd or 4th gear), the bike is jerking at times. Could it be some issue with the EFI??

* while in motion, when i release the throttle (De-accelerate), the bike is making BUD.. BUD sound at times.. something close to misfiring.. Could it be because of the Bent off-road silencer?

* after riding for about 35 kms, i see the INFAMOUS oil leak from the kick shaft and take her to the service station again. The guys see it and as expected rule out any leaks saying its the oil dripping from the chain. They asked to keep riding and we will see it in first service.

* the Oval box on the right side is jammed and not opening. 3 guys at service center tried their luck opening it, but could not. they said its new, so the friction is too high and paint is also new, so it tight. any idea as to how can i open it?? i dot not have WD40..

Do share your thoughts..

SO all in all very very dissapointed and dis-satisfied so far..

Shall add more as the days pass.
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Old 17th April 2010, 19:31   #221
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@monk- Not sure whats the difference between the two or how the settings can be changed on pulsar.

@Jkdas- Headlight bulb is halogen and I find the beam to be quite strong although felt the same on a TR bike.

@terminator- Normally a C5 will idle high only when;

1. You change your OEM exhaust to upswept and the idle goes high, have to turn the idle screw clockwise to get it back to its normal rpm of 1000-1050.
2. If by any chance the PAV valve tube connected underneath the intake manifold gets loose/out of place.
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Old 19th April 2010, 12:50   #222
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I find the horn of my C5 very weak. The company recommends 12 V 2.5 Amp (max). What should i do if i want to install a horn of higher Amp or a double horn?
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Old 20th April 2010, 09:09   #223
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I am using a twin horn of 5 amp each,& having no issues yet,you can go for it,though try to keep the Amp's on a lower side.Local horn is not recommended.
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Old 20th April 2010, 15:57   #224
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@Nasir- I will try to calm your nerves so be patience and ask me if something is not clear rather then getting all panicky. I have gone through that phase so some brotherly advice

First of all, if there is common issue then that should be rectified at the earliest as they are aware of it and should know how to resolve it.



With the front sleeves touching the fork, I have mentioned it on the first page and I think in last few pages I have explained it clearly how to resolve it. Have a go at it. If its left unattended it will leave deep grooves on the fork which after polishing will still be visible.

Now for the centre, I wish to know why was a pin welded afterwards? I have got my stand replaced and If I can get a new one so can you. Don't forget the premium you have paid plus the waiting for your bike and all that to get your new bike painted again with parts welded afterwards and shoddy paint job. My dealer has a touchup paint spray matching the C green and it was sent by RE so your dealer can easily get it from RE.

If you don't want to wait to get the LHS chamber buffed then you should get a
3M Finesse-it (Marine paste,Compound white) will cost you around Rs 57.
Also get nickel powder from an auto paint store. Booth the items you will get it from there.

Procedure- clean the LHS side chamber with a wet cloth, tape(masking tape) around the edge of chamber where the engine grey paint starts, this is to protect the grey paint being buffed alongside the chamber with 3M cream as it will be like sanding the paint.

Now take a cotton cloth, apply 3M cream to the effected area or the whole chamber to get a even finish. Now start rubbing with the cloth with pressure, more pressure you apply-more shine you will get. The cream will turn into black and you will know it's doing its job. It will easily take 30 min to do just one chamber. When all the scratches are gone and the surface is smooth and shining. Clean the chamber with a dry cloth and smear nickel powder all over it with a dry cloth and you are done. If you enjoy DIY then its for you, if you don't then you can get it buffed for around Rs 150. But for that you will have to remover the chamber if you want to get it done properly.

By the way the dots you mentioned on the chamber are due to the battery water and thats is common.

As for your few other Q's;

Yes the chambers do get very hot and you will be amazed to find out that after 4 hrs after parking it will still be hot. This is normal.

Have you completed running in? For first 500 km you might have those jerky moments but after that it should be alright. Normally on C5 while you are at constant speed, one tends to loosen up on the throttle which we might not even notice and EFI or I should say TPS will notice that and respond to that doing so it takes 1/2 a second and we get a jerk. Its normal on C5, try accelerating and deceleration and observe the response time, you will get my point. It can also happen if there is to much of play in the accelerator wire. You can get that adjusted or DIY.

Bud--bud noise- This is normal with a upswept exhaust. When the engine is cold or running rich, at speeds under 50 you will hear a submissive fart(excuse my language) this is different from the bud bud noise which anyways is normal on a upswept.

When you are riding 50+ for a while and then slowing down you will get a backfire loud enough to scare people around you and may be yourself as it comes when least expected and can be quite embarrassing at times if you are not one of the wannabe riders. For this reason alone I have reverted back to OEM exhaust. But its by no means a misfire. If you intent to keep the upswept and not happy with it breaking wind at unwanted occasions then the best way to get rid of the bang bang is by blocking the PAV at the head. I have not tried it so do so on your own risk. Although it will not effect your performance in any way apart from the pollution control on cold starts which by having a upswept is anyways illegal.

Yes the tool box is a pain to open and there is not much you can do except trying again and again to open it. They have intentionally made it tight so it does not start rattling in the long run. Best way is to try prying out using a cloth from the top and sides. Try in a warmer weather. Its a painful process and you have my best wishes and sympathy to get it opened
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Old 20th April 2010, 16:41   #225
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@ Randhawa:
Thanks a ton for your time and patience. I am already feeling better.

I got the front fork sleeves adjusted around the fork, at the service center, but now there is a new problem. At the front fork compression (during normal riding), the fork sleeves are touching the mudguard (both the sleeves). The friction is scrapped the paint on the sleeve as well as the mudguard.
In todays ers of CAD/CAM/Rapid Prototyping/ and other technological advancements, i am surprised as to how can RE make such blunders??? I am planning to record all the issues with the bike, supported by pictures, make it into a presentation and send to RE and Eicher.

Shall try buffing the chambers my-self with the 3M cream and nickle paint. Am also looking for the buffing wheel which i can attached to my hand held Drill machine.

Just got the bike 4 days back and its done only 240 kms on the odo. Hope the excessive heating of chambers and the jerks are sorted within a service or two. Shall check the ply for the throttle cable.
and the tool box is still un-opened since it was last closed in chennai factory.

I have a lot more (may be silly?) queries coming up your way. Your brotherly advice/support/experience would be very helpful to me and others.. Thankyou again.
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