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Old 5th October 2012, 13:24   #2746
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Hi All,

Can anybody comment/suggest if I can install the new TB500 entire rear disc brake kit on to a Classic 500? Does this require any welding OR can this be a bolt-on job??

Cheers
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Old 5th October 2012, 23:19   #2747
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it may require a complete swing arm change on your bike due to the mounting points. but all this theory let the bike come and there would be other alternatives as well
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Old 7th October 2012, 09:42   #2748
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Friends I am in a decision making phase for RE 350 or 500.
I have some queries I believe RE owners can help.
What is the power to weight ration of 350 and 500?
Can we get black rim instead os chrome ones right at the dealership (by paying some extra amount)?
What would seniors suggest as pre-delivery inspections for me (dont want to get stuck with a lemon and then legal hassles)?
ANyother suggestion before and after buying.

Thanks!
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Old 10th October 2012, 11:17   #2749
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninja75 View Post
Hi,

I've booked my DS500 a week back and expecting it in the next 10 days Yes you heard me right - no typo there. I'm from Bangalore and the wait period is well over a year. I've booked the bike in Vizag, Andhra. My plan is to ride it all the way back - 1052kms... I hate to transport the bike in cargo, not just for the additional costs but worry about it's handling. This is my first BULL and the thrill to ride it is also responsible for preparing to ride it at speeds <50kmph for the first 500kms. Planning to give my bike on day 2 for it's first service in Guntur or Vijaywada. Looking fwd to all guru's for your piece of advise - as I would like to remind you that this is my first BULL. In the past I'd ridden the Ist gen pulsar and then the Avenger.. I'd done such long rides in the past and they have moved my soul all the time
Thats Awesome!! Congrats on your new machine ..Few points you can take care of..Happy & Safe journey..Source: External

The following are the key points to break in.

Never stress the engine by any mean.

Refer your bike manual and play with in the specific rpm limit

Do not ride on constant speed for a long time (that doesnít mean your bike should make vroom vroom vroom noise) Vary speed means instead of sticking to 45 kmph try to vary between 40 to 50 kmph.í

If possible try to avoid steep / hilly terrains (our Indian roads are terrains in most places)

Give regular breaks during long drives.

Accelerate and de-accelerate in a slow and smooth way

Try to avoid heavy pillion rider because that will stress the engine.

During break in period engine oil changing duration is shorter, (in other word engine oil life is shorter so as to ensure engine life longer) so check the level, quality and quantity of engine oil regularly.

Use only mineral or semi synthetic oil during the run in period, the reason being is the engine moving parts need to rub and get polished with each other, synthetic oil has high lubricating properties thus it will result in uneven polishing of engine parts.

Careful in Engine oil changing intervals during run in period

First oil change in 200 kilometers, Second oil change during first service or 750 to 850 kilometers which ever comes earlier. Third time oil change at 1500 kilometers.(This is a suggested range)

This frequent oil change will ensure most of the scrapped metal particles get removed along with the oil.

Oil filter change will do well, but itís not mandatory.
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Old 11th October 2012, 11:19   #2750
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

[quote=Honda Monk;2925433]
What would seniors suggest as pre-delivery inspections for me (dont want to get stuck with a lemon and then legal hassles)?
QUOTE]

please go through the PDI tips thread. you will find a checklist prepared one for royal enfield
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Old 11th October 2012, 19:32   #2751
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Quote:
What would seniors suggest as pre-delivery inspections for me (dont want to get stuck with a lemon and then legal hassles
just prey to whomsoever you do, that u get a good piece. Pr-delivery inspections are just for the fit and finish. The true character of the bike will be seen/felt only once its moving on road (and once its clocked some miles). and by that time, its already yours. So just sincerely prey that u get a good piece. past life karma could play a role, and which means i was a sure gangster in my past.

Some mods to the bike today:

Got rid of the chain cover. it was either touching tyre on one side or the chain on the other. hardly any tolerance left the RE. Shall run the bike without the chain cover. Dont think it plays any major role anyways, does it?

Got an after-market collar for the rear shocks. the height is increased by quarter of an inch. set the pre-load at softest. the seat feels a bit taller but the suspension feels much better in the short ride from workshop to office. and no more issues of tyre touching the fender with whatever load. Would suggest guys who do lots of heavy duty touring with luggage and pillion to definitely give it a shot.

Last edited by nasirkaka : 11th October 2012 at 19:33.
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Old 15th October 2012, 16:59   #2752
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Quote:
Originally Posted by nasirkaka View Post
just prey to whomsoever you do, that u get a good piece. Pr-delivery inspections are just for the fit and finish. The true character of the bike will be seen/felt only once its moving on road (and once its clocked some miles). and by that time, its already yours. So just sincerely prey that u get a good piece. past life karma could play a role, and which means i was a sure gangster in my past.
Maybe you should take writing humor seriously!!

Some mods to the bike today:

Quote:
Originally Posted by nasirkaka View Post
Got rid of the chain cover. it was either touching tyre on one side or the chain on the other. hardly any tolerance left the RE. Shall run the bike without the chain cover. Dont think it plays any major role anyways, does it?
Was it the original metal Chain cover? Did you try the new plastic cover provided with newer REs?

Does not removing the cover increase the chances of the lube/muck being sprayed upwards?

Got an after-market collar for the rear shocks. the height is increased by quarter of an inch. set the pre-load at softest. the seat feels a bit taller but the suspension feels much better in the short ride from workshop to office. and no more issues of tyre touching the fender with whatever load. Would suggest guys who do lots of heavy duty touring with luggage and pillion to definitely give it a shot.[/quote]

Where did you get this collar from? Any cornering issues?
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Old 15th October 2012, 17:24   #2753
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Quote:
Was it the original metal Chain cover? Did you try the new plastic cover provided with newer REs?
Yes, it was the metal type chain cover the bike came with. did not go for plastic one as i never had any chain guard related issues earlier. just that after my last rear puncture repair, noises started.

Quote:
Does not removing the cover increase the chances of the lube/muck being sprayed upwards?
I had same doubts, but saw lots of bikes at Junaids garage running without chain covers. they never had any lube/muck spray issues. Will have to test it out myself. So far, did some riding in light rain, but all seems well.

Quote:
Where did you get this collar from? Any cornering issues?
Got the collar and its installation from Junaid's garage itself. Have been riding with it in the city so far, and did not find any difference in handling. Suspension feels much easy on the back as the preload is now set to softest without fear of tyres and mudguard interacting. i feel a decent amount of increase in the ground clearance as well, not sure technically if its possible. Havent tried any sharp cornering, i am usually gentle and slow on the curves. (no pun intended)
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Old 15th October 2012, 22:45   #2754
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

I used to own a Thunderbird few years back, it hardly gave me any trouble on maintenance except for couple of clutch cable breaks. But routine maintenance used to be costly, especially because of the amount of engine oil it gulps with every change.

I had booked a CL5 during the first week of April, showroom folks mentioned that it would be due in next couple of weeks. Having double minds, would it be foolish to bust almost 2L of hard earned money on this or not. Fingers crossed.
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Old 16th October 2012, 02:01   #2755
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

C500 FEB 2010

Finally got my Bosch Platinum (Primary). Will be installing it tomorrow.
Next week will do my ECU remapping, mine was due, never got a call from RE.


http://instagram.com/p/Qzfdl3RoA3/



Also my battery is almost dead. Can you guys suggest a better battery?
Approx price in Mumbai if possible.

I have clocked 15k so far and this time went for Semi Synthetic. I will highly recommend everyone to go to Semi or full synthetic. The engine feels so much better after riding for 1-2 days.
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Old 16th October 2012, 18:11   #2756
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Siddharth can you suggest which semi synthetic oil are you using on your C500....??
Please give the exact viscosity numbers if possible.......

I have been using the BOSCH Platinum but it is not a significant inprovement over the normal one. Try NGK BPR6ES if possible. This one suites the RE better !

Battery, mine is also a 2010 and the battery is still functional. Try keep your terminals free of oxidation, change the fluid and get a recharge before you change yours. It is not advisable to use your C500 on low battery, as it puts a lot of strain on the starting gears !!
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Old 17th October 2012, 04:43   #2757
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

I must admit I have not heard of changing a batteries fluid before.

Battery fluid is a diluted sulfuric acid and water mix but even in its diluted condition it is a strong acid that can easily damage flesh, metal and a host of other things.

The size of the lead plates determines how much acid is needed to make a fully charged battery. As the battery discharges, the acid combines with the lead in the plates reducing the amount of free acid left in the water solution.
If one tests the specific gravity of the solution in a discharged battery they will find that the amount of acid is considerably diminished.

As the battery is charged, it moves the acid from the lead plates back into the solution, raising the specific gravity. This allows one to easily test the state of the batteries charge if the battery has removable caps. ( Many of the newer (and better) batteries caps are not removable so their charge must be tested by applying a heavy discharge thru a special tester.)

Knowing this, one may conclude that to recharge or "fix" a discharged battery all they have to do is to replace the acid in the cells with more acid, however it isn't that simple.

There is only so much acid that the lead plates can hold and if they are full, adding more or newer acid will not recharge the battery. In fact, adding more acid can damage the battery.

Over time, this transfer of acid from the solution to the lead plates and back from the lead plates takes a tole on the plates. They tend to break down which has the effect of making the efficiency and power of the battery less.
We refer to this condition by saying the battery is getting worn out and once it has happened, adding more acid will do nothing to restore it.

Based on all of this, I cannot recommend that anyone should ever attempt to change a lead/acid batteries fluid.
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Old 17th October 2012, 13:24   #2758
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Quote:
Originally Posted by bradhey View Post
Siddharth can you suggest which semi synthetic oil are you using on your C500....??
Please give the exact viscosity numbers if possible.......
I used Motul 5100 15W50, its easy to find.

My battery is in final stage, forget self start. I am afraid it should not conk my fuel pump. I have a slight doubt if my bike is charging battery or not. What I have realized is, if I get the engine to start and remove the battery I can go on without any problem (Lights on).

However I need to check it again with a volt meter.
Met a senior rider and he told me that my battery has lasted beyond 2.5 yrs which is very good.

Jim,
thanks for the in depth explanation, I will keep this in mind
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Old 17th October 2012, 22:41   #2759
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

@ArizonaJim : Thanks for the explanation Jim. From what I understand of my mech and the battery dealer is that they had flushed the battery with pure distilled water, and then added acid of correct specific gravity to the battery. Finally it was put on a trickle charge for over 12 hours........................

I don't know what is what, but for now the battery is fine, and I hope it would last me another few more months.
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Old 18th October 2012, 22:55   #2760
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Hi Guys,
Took delivery of my Desert Storm on 25sep. Done 3090kms now. Yesterday I noticed that the acid from the battery is leaking and damaging the paint on the body. Am taking it for the 2nd service tomorrow. Any pointers? Do i get a replacement battery under warranty? I was not given a warranty card for the battery as they said it is not Exide and they will look after it if any problem.
Thanks,
Deepak
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