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Old 27th October 2012, 17:00   #2776
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Its a great review Randhawa.
Congratulations on the buy.

Here are my two bits that might help

Go for an aftermatket broad handlebar, something like the yamaha style bars, which most of the bullet owners go for. Now they havestarted making ones with bar ends and switch housins pins, so it should be a direct fit. Broader handlebars also make your steering lighter (torque = force x arm ).
The spring seat does the worst job at suspension, if anything it produces a negative bounce in tandem with th rear suspension. IMHO spring seats r best suite for hard tail motorcycles. Try a regular single seat with added cushion, i am sure will be happy. You can khanjanchi. Or yu can get a scrap thinderbird seat and get it chopped and made. It provides lumbar support as well since its upswept seat.
All the electricals under your front seat can be shifted inside the toolbox. It saves you a lot on any rainy day. We all know if electricals are messed up, you cant fire it up. :-)
Since your motorcycle relies on spark from the battery at all times, its advisable to keep your battery in the prime health. I feel its is the weakest link in the bullet.
The hinges on the tool box are also major areas of rust.
The air box design, well it makes no sense. RE tried to make a vacuum chamber so the air would be sucked in from the airfilter itself, but going by RE's expertise in workmanship, air is bound to leak in from other than intended source. The old design was perfect. I havent seen anybody cary it out, but its doable.

Keep thumping brother.
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Old 27th October 2012, 20:44   #2777
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Quote:
Originally Posted by bradhey View Post
Where and how have you been Randhawa ?
Any reasons why this happens on the C5, when
most bikes respond better to open exhausts pipes ??

Mine used to do 120 kph with ease, two up, and nary a vibe at that.
Top whack of 145 kph would be achieved stooping over the tank,
while 130 could be hit upright on the OEM restricted long exhaust.

However the upswept OEM has changed all this, the bike now vibrates more
when being pulled through the revs, and like you said, the mid range and top end
has got disturbed as well..............

Doing great, sold my bike last year in november so lost interest in it.

I feel its due to the inadequate fuelling and stock air filter. The power a free flow exhaust can give is restricted by the above factors. After some time when the novelty of the thump and free flow dies out, that is the time when people realise the benefit of the bazooka. Only the downside of the bazooka is that high speed runs generate enough heat for the bazooka to discolour just after the union of the down pipe and the exhaust.

The max I had ever achieved was 140 with one of the valves leaking. After 125 you really got to lean on the tank to get the max otherwise the wind force is too strong to even sit upright.

@Andy Thanks for the appreciation.

Last edited by Randhawa : 27th October 2012 at 20:45.
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Old 28th October 2012, 14:26   #2778
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Randhawa View Post
Yes it does, between mid range to top end.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bradhey View Post
Where and how have you been Randhawa ?
Any reasons why this happens on the C5, when
most bikes respond better to open exhausts pipes ??

Mine used to do 120 kph with ease, two up, and nary a vibe at that.
Top whack of 145 kph would be achieved stooping over the tank,
while 130 could be hit upright on the OEM restricted long exhaust.

However the upswept OEM has changed all this, the bike now vibrates more
when being pulled through the revs, and like you said, the mid range and top end
has got disturbed as well..............
Switched to OEM Bazooka,and what a welcome change.
Bike is breathing much better,and is not feeling restricted like it used to with upswept.Touched almost 130 with that big windshield,so not bad i think.Paid 400 bucks for OEM bazooka,not a bad deal i guess.
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Old 28th October 2012, 15:08   #2779
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

You got a deal for 400 and you touched 130 with the shield. I think your running in is almost done now.
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Old 28th October 2012, 15:17   #2780
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

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Originally Posted by Randhawa View Post
You got a deal for 400 and you touched 130 with the shield. I think your running in is almost done now.
Infact,running in was almost over post 1500kms after 3rd oil change.
I have not been able to ride her much over past 10 months.
Now looking forward to (S)miles in himachal
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Old 29th October 2012, 10:48   #2781
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Default Classic 500 auto decompressor malfunction

I am having some trouble with my auto decomp. I changed it once this year, it costed me like 1.8k, they told me RE revised the design. Now I think it has stopped working again.

Symptoms. (C500 May 2010)
  1. Kick is hard and I can feel the compression.
  2. No tick tick sound at idle even in cold start.

I am trying to reason why is this happening again & again. My latest oil change was Motul Semi Synthetic at 15k KM.

My battery is very weak, I am using kick for past 2-3mo. Last time when this happened my battery was fine but I ended up spoiling my sprag clutch. I am getting a new battery this week, (please need your suggestion with models & prices) and I am afraid I should not spoil my sprag again if the auto decom is not working.

Please advice

Last edited by siddharth_menon : 29th October 2012 at 10:52.
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Old 31st October 2012, 20:15   #2782
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Default Which battery to buy? Classic 500

I checked with my local battery dealer (Mumbai) and found these two options for battery replacement.
  1. Exide Backer (Violet Color) - 12MF14L-A2 costs about Rs 1500 This does not have an overflow pipe.
  2. Exide Bikerz (White & Red) - 12EB14L-A2 costs about Rs 2400/- This has a overflow pipe.

Other than warranty, 6 months & 15-18mo respective I don't know the difference between the two. Also I noticed the new C500 models comes with Exide Bikerz as OEM fitment.
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Old 31st October 2012, 22:33   #2783
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Default Re: Which battery to buy? Classic 500

Quote:
Originally Posted by siddharth_menon View Post
I checked with my local battery dealer (Mumbai) and found these two options for battery replacement.
  1. Exide Backer (Violet Color) - 12MF14L-A2 costs about Rs 1500 This does not have an overflow pipe.
  2. Exide Bikerz (White & Red) - 12EB14L-A2 costs about Rs 2400/- This has a overflow pipe.

Other than warranty, 6 months & 15-18mo respective I don't know the difference between the two. Also I noticed the new C500 models comes with Exide Bikerz as OEM fitment.
Get the 12EB14L-A2, first one is just the replacement battery and due to the exide logistic reasons it has lesser shelf life.


Your auto decomp should not die that soon. It's actually your exhaust cam with inbuilt auto decomp and there is a possibility that they just adjusted the auto decomp last time rather then replacing it. Get the cam checked in front of you before you spend more on a replacement. Are you sure it's 1.8k just for one exhaust cam?
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Old 31st October 2012, 23:44   #2784
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Default Re: Which battery to buy? Classic 500

Quote:
Originally Posted by Randhawa View Post
Get the 12EB14L-A2, first one is just the replacement battery and due to the exide logistic reasons it has lesser shelf life.


Your auto decomp should not die that soon. It's actually your exhaust cam with inbuilt auto decomp and there is a possibility that they just adjusted the auto decomp last time rather then replacing it. Get the cam checked in front of you before you spend more on a replacement. Are you sure it's 1.8k just for one exhaust cam?
Thanks for the heads up, I will try for 12EB14L-A2.

As for auto decom, I had to get my engine case replaced (RE Classic 500 - A screw that ripped my engine case), I had the auto decom problem before that. While I got the new case they also replaced auto decom part (1.6-1.8k). They did not do it in front of me but they showed me the replaced part. Exhaust cam with a centrifugal lock. Basically I am amusing at certain speed it will lock, there by adjusting the push rod for compression lock.

Incidentally yesterday I heard the tick tick sound for sometime, nothing there after. I am sure during the whole engine case change they did not open the engine head assembly completely. I will take your suggestion to have the exhaust cam checked, but this means opening the RHS case cover :|

Last edited by siddharth_menon : 31st October 2012 at 23:46.
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Old 1st November 2012, 00:16   #2785
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

I think RE changed the bolt on the sprag with a different one after your case or similar ones later on.

While changing the case they would have removed the head completely apart from the valves. Yes you have to remove the RHS cover and the drum to access the cam along with the fuel tank + rocker covers.
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Old 1st November 2012, 00:36   #2786
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

As Randhawa said, the auto decomp consists of a spring loaded centrifugal cam that rises above the exhaust cam lobe.
With it extended, the hydraulic cam follower (lifter) rides on the lever rather than following the cam surface to the "closed" height.
This holds the exhaust valve slightly open.

I believe the auto decompression lever raises when the engine is rotating slower than 750 RPM which is considerably below idle speed.

Because it is in an oily environment, if the oil is cold the thick viscosity of the oil will sometimes prevent the spring from moving it back into its recess in the exhaust cam.
If this happens, a loud clicking sound will be noted. Slightly raising the idle speed for a moment will force the auto decomp cam back to the 'run' position.

I've noticed that my 500cc FI UCE auto decomp has much less effect than the manual decomp on the older engines which let out a lot of the compression when it was actuated.

When kicking over my UCE engine with the foot starter there is a noticeable amount of resistance due to the engines compression. This is because the auto decomp system does not let out all of the compression.

This is an inherent condition on the UCE engines design because if too much compression was to be released (like the old manual decompression valve does) the engine would not start.

Put another way, the UCE auto decompression cam is there primarily to prevent kick-back when the engine shuts down to prevent sprag clutch damage.
It's effect for making the raising of the piston to TDC easy when kickstarting, is marginal.

Based on your description of its operation I suspect that it is working normally.
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Old 1st November 2012, 11:31   #2787
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Randhawa View Post
I think RE changed the bolt on the sprag with a different one after your case or similar ones later on.
They told me that I got a revised bolt. RE gave me a new case but because it was out of warranty I had to pay for labor. This plus some addition minor issues came up to ~13.5k.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ArizonaJim View Post
As Randhawa said, the auto decomp consists of a spring loaded centrifugal cam that rises above the exhaust cam lobe.
With it extended, the hydraulic cam follower (lifter) rides on the lever rather than following the cam surface to the "closed" height.
This holds the exhaust valve slightly open.

I believe the auto decompression lever raises when the engine is rotating slower than 750 RPM which is considerably below idle speed.

Because it is in an oily environment, if the oil is cold the thick viscosity of the oil will sometimes prevent the spring from moving it back into its recess in the exhaust cam.
If this happens, a loud clicking sound will be noted. Slightly raising the idle speed for a moment will force the auto decomp cam back to the 'run' position.

I've noticed that my 500cc FI UCE auto decomp has much less effect than the manual decomp on the older engines which let out a lot of the compression when it was actuated.

When kicking over my UCE engine with the foot starter there is a noticeable amount of resistance due to the engines compression. This is because the auto decomp system does not let out all of the compression.

This is an inherent condition on the UCE engines design because if too much compression was to be released (like the old manual decompression valve does) the engine would not start.

Put another way, the UCE auto decompression cam is there primarily to prevent kick-back when the engine shuts down to prevent sprag clutch damage.
It's effect for making the raising of the piston to TDC easy when kickstarting, is marginal.

Based on your description of its operation I suspect that it is working normally.
I recently changed my oil to Semi Synthetic. So far I have lost 2 sprag clutches, one in warranty. I want to be little more careful this time, I suspect decom mechanism's fault for repeated sprag failure. Usually when decom is working I get tick tick sound for 1st 1min during cold start, its very rare now & if at all then only last for 2-3 sec.
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Old 1st November 2012, 16:37   #2788
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Default Re: Classic 500 auto decompressor malfunction

Quote:
Originally Posted by siddharth_menon View Post
Last time when this happened my battery was fine but I ended up spoiling my sprag clutch. I am getting a new battery this week, (please need your suggestion with models & prices) and I am afraid I should not spoil my sprag again if the auto decom is not working.

Please advice
What causes Sprag clutch failure?
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Old 2nd November 2012, 10:07   #2789
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Default Re: Classic 500 auto decompressor malfunction

I finally got 12EB14L-A2 battery last night. This one lacks a flow pipe, not sure why.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Abeer View Post
What causes Sprag clutch failure?
I am guessing when auto decom is faulty there is more load for starter motor / Sprag clutch. The difference is evident when you try kicking with and without auto decom.

I lost 2 Sprag so far and I believe auto decom is the root cause of the problem.

Last edited by siddharth_menon : 2nd November 2012 at 10:09.
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Old 3rd November 2012, 15:05   #2790
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Hi All,

I have couple of questions for all the experts out there; I am sure this topic would have been discussed at length...pardon me if I am repeating.

1. Is engine braking good/bad for the engine?
2. If good, what is a recommended procedure? gear vs speed etc.

I do not use engine brake at all and hence my brake (esp the rear drum) hardly lasts a few hundred kms.

The reason for my question is, my friend who also has a Classic 500 and he uses his engine brake thoroughly; when i ride his bike, i feel there is a lot of harshness, vibrations in the overall engine.

Please do share your recommendations as i wish to adopt the right braking strategy for long lasting brakes, wet/dry surfaces and high-speed panic braking.

Also has anybody used a high-performance ceramic brake pads?? any suggestions??

I am eagerly waiting for TB500 parts to hit the service centers as i wish consider an upgrade for a rear disc brake.

Cheers
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