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Old 7th November 2012, 01:25   #2806
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

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Originally Posted by smurthy2807 View Post
@ArizonaJim: Yup - that backfiring began the moment I moved to the upswept exhaust. Will move back to the stock exhaust and report...thanks.
@Akshay: When you say OEM Bazooka, do you mean the stock exhaust? Your earlier post mentions you not having a problem with lack of thump.
Yes,i mean the stock exhaust,and yes since i use my bike for long rides only,i hate loud exhausts,and the stock one is just perfect.
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Old 7th November 2012, 01:33   #2807
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

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Originally Posted by iron.head View Post
Riding a new engine at 80 uphill should not be done at all. How do you say that the piston got stuck? Did you come to the halt because of some other reason? Get the oil and oil filter changed ASAP and inspect the oil for any traces of metal. The way it sounds, it seems that something somewhere in your new engine has faced abnormal wear and you will come to know of it later in the form of engine response/sound/fuel efficiency/smoke/etc . Workshop people might not accept to take apart the engine until you face some serious issue or your engine produces abnormal sound which may/may not happen. It is very sad, but you might have to live with it. I think experts can comment better on this and to the extent damage might have been done(if any).
Even a brand new Bike should not seize if its ridden at 80.
And thisbike had done 1000kms and RE itself recommends 80km\hr limit after 1000kms,everyday i see brand new RE's being revved like crazy right after delivery,so it should be becuase of manufacturing defect.
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Old 7th November 2012, 01:46   #2808
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

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Originally Posted by akshay4587 View Post
Even a brand new Bike should not seize if its ridden at 80.
And thisbike had done 1000kms and RE itself recommends 80km\hr limit after 1000kms,everyday i see brand new RE's being revved like crazy right after delivery,so it should be becuase of manufacturing defect.
Yes, people drive at 80 right after delivery and nothing happens, but you must be aware that RE still uses age-old manufacturing techniques and machinery and due to this we get multiple oil changes and observe careful riding during the running in period just to be on the safer side. Driving uphill stresses the engine, though the owner can't be blamed if the engine seizes. As I said before, experts can comment better on this.

A very properly trained ASC mechanic might be able to open up and inspect/repair the engine provided they are ready to do this. On the other hand, a poorly trained mechanic might further screw up the bike's engine.

Last edited by iron.head : 7th November 2012 at 01:48.
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Old 7th November 2012, 10:13   #2809
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

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Originally Posted by Puffdamgcdragon View Post
Hi, I was trying to upload the pics...
Anyway...
Guys, please advise,
Puff,
First of all, resize your images using MS-Paint or something.

Your 1000km of easy riding was the right thing to do. However, some parts might have high spots that take just a bit longer to wear down. We all know RE's mfg quality don't we?

Did you change to the upswept after the seize or before? Change back to the stock pipe. The upswept seems, according to a lot of folks here, to be a waste of money.

Change your oil, inspect the old oil personally for metal particles. Mechanic might fob you off to avoid digging deeper.

I would suggest, if you notice that power-drop was due to the upswept, that you leave the block-piston as it is and continue riding, but take it easy with the right paw for a while longer. Change your oil very frequently.

If the engine is still rough and noisy with the stock pipe, pull out the piston and inspect for major scoring. If scoring isn't too bad, look for high spots and sand them down. Should do the trick.

Oh, and check the oil flow!!! Pump may just be faulty.

Cheers,
Rahul
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Old 7th November 2012, 12:44   #2810
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

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Originally Posted by ArizonaJim View Post
Endofdayz
Although the alternator on a new RE is sufficient to keep the battery charged at driving speeds, it's pretty marginal at idle speed.

After getting my G5 (fuel injected UCE Electra) I bought a voltage indicating device which shows the voltage in the system.

http://nfieldgear.com/enfield-store/...ery-gauge.html

At an idle speed with the headlight on its "low" (40 watt) beam the voltage is at 12 volts.

Under the same idle speed with the high beam on (50 watts) the indicator says the system voltage is slightly below 12 volts. If I am also applying the brake while stopped so that the rear brake light is lit it drops below 12 volts.


12 volts is fine for all of the operating systems but it doesn't charge the battery at all.

Running the engine or motorcycle at higher speeds the voltage rises to 14 volts which will charge the battery but this is not always possible when stuck in traffic jams.

I suggest that use your headlight low beam and if you are going to be limited to long periods of sitting at traffic lights you shift the transmission to neutral and run the engine slightly faster than an idle speed. Don't race the engine but keep it slightly above idle.
When moving, avoid shifting to higher gears. Let the engine run freely so it can recharge the battery.

I don't know the laws in your area but in some locations the motorcycle can be ridden with the headlight off.
With the headlight off but the parking lights on the system voltage will be slightly above 12 volts at an idle speed. This can also help to keep your battery charged.

Although it is dangerous to ride without the headlight on, the yellow "flasher" on the left grip will turn on your headlights high beam even if the headlights are turned off.
This can be useful when approaching other traffic, people or intersections.

Because your battery has been in a state of low charge, you might want to consider buying a trickle battery charger to charge the battery overnight.
This, plus trying the things I suggested should keep your battery at a state that can operate your electric starter at all times.
Thanks for the reply arizonajim.

However yesterday while going back in traffic, the battery again died on me. i had to use kick start to get it back to life. i took it to service center. they connected to comp and claimed the battery is charging. when i idle, it shows 11.8 v and when in higher rpms it shoots upto 14.3 v. however they were clueless why it happened in the first place. the also showed error saying crankshaft malfunction. this happens due to low battery charge. they then concluded since it was raining the battery and electric start terminal might have collected some deposits. they cleaned both with sand paper rubbing. and post that i have done 25kms in traffic. now it seems to be working fine. anyway they asked me to observe if it happens again. record a video how it behaves.

in bangalore we are not suppose to use high beam in city limits. i always use low beam. yes post rain switches are behaving awkward. so i might need to spray wd40 whatever suggested before.


As im getting closer to 1 yr after purchasing the bike. my thread will get updated with review. not as informative as this thread but yes, the problem i faced and resolutions. how royal enfield responded to my queries. i will try to put every day update to help other owners and also prospective buyer.

for time being if you ask me whether i will own any new royal enfields in future.

answer would be : NO. after owning TBTS 350 and desert storm 500.
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Old 7th November 2012, 14:35   #2811
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Guys,

This is awsome thread for Classic 500 and every page contain useful information for owners however it hard to go through each and every page as its allready 188 .

I am booking Classic 500 (green/blue, can't fine the right name for this color anywhere) on Diwali Padwa. The waiting period 5 months but dealer said it can be delivered before as well. I owned RE STD 350 CI for 3.5 yrs and now moving to 500.

So I want to learn couple of things before the delivery,

1. Is EFI system is good/hassle free, will it be an issue in remote areas?
2. What I learned from many post is changing the silencer to after market is not advisable however I can see 99.99% Classic either fit goldstar or up swift?
3. I will use this bike for daily commute as well occasional long rides, will that make seance or its strictly long ride bike?
4. Is there huge difference in power/performance in Classic 350 and 500. I got chance to ride both at showroom however that was for 5 minutes in traffic.
5. My mech says Classic 500 have chain spoket issue and one need to change that in every 10K or some kms?

Thanks,
Vishal.
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Old 7th November 2012, 15:07   #2812
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

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Originally Posted by Thar4x4 View Post
Guys,

This is awsome thread for Classic 500 and every page contain useful information for owners however it hard to go through each and every page as its allready 188 .

I am booking Classic 500 (green/blue, can't fine the right name for this color anywhere) on Diwali Padwa. The waiting period 5 months but dealer said it can be delivered before as well. I owned RE STD 350 CI for 3.5 yrs and now moving to 500.

So I want to learn couple of things before the delivery,

1. Is EFI system is good/hassle free, will it be an issue in remote areas?
2. What I learned from many post is changing the silencer to after market is not advisable however I can see 99.99% Classic either fit goldstar or up swift?
3. I will use this bike for daily commute as well occasional long rides, will that make seance or its strictly long ride bike?
4. Is there huge difference in power/performance in Classic 350 and 500. I got chance to ride both at showroom however that was for 5 minutes in traffic.
5. My mech says Classic 500 have chain spoket issue and one need to change that in every 10K or some kms?

Thanks,
Vishal.



let me try and answer few of your queries though im not an expert.

1. Is EFI system is good/hassle free, will it be an issue in remote areas?

A: yes they are reliable. i have faced issues bike switching off. due to incompetency of Service centers i had to face lot of problems. but mind you once you buy 500 the road side mechanics and their comments needs to ignored. also you cannot service it anywhere other than A.S.S as they might screw up the bike even more. my bike has run 14k kms and always given at brand store service centers.
2. What I learned from many post is changing the silencer to after market is not advisable however I can see 99.99% Classic either fit goldstar or up swift?
A: i had upswept which i fitted when bike was 3k kms. ran it till 8k kms. bike vibrates a lot and even top speed was reduced. there was an pop sound everytime while deacceleration. i went back to sotck. vibrations have reduced. top speed has increased. Also for kitna deti hai jantha, the mileage has improved with stock silencer.
3. I will use this bike for daily commute as well occasional long rides, will that make seance or its strictly long ride bike?
A: i cannot comment for this question. however if u ask me even i bought with this intentions for city commute and occasional highway run. for 14k kms the highway run never happened, and landed up using whole 14k kms in the city. if im given a choice of any other bike like CBR250R or any 200cc bike for that matter will never touch my 500 Desert storm in the city. due to great traffic stop n go traffic of bangalore, the bike gets heated up and u cannot realy ride to bull's potential. i would suggest highway run is best suited for 500. but again dont know whether others have faced any problems during highway runs. My personal opinion would be with such an inconsistent behavior i dare take it to highways
4. Is there huge difference in power/performance in Classic 350 and 500. I got chance to ride both at showroom however that was for 5 minutes in traffic.
A; Yes. there is a huge huge difference. if you land up using your bull only in city limits without any highway runs, then i would suggest stick to 350. Atleast this bike doesnt have EFI. hence if you not satisfied with A.S.S. then u can check out local mechanic as this UCE engine is proven from TBTS days, this is nearly consistent then its big brother. i had tbts before, hence there is lot of power in 500 which you may miss in highway run.
5. My mech says Classic 500 have chain spoket issue and one need to change that in every 10K or some kms?
A: Not at all. At 14k kms i have never faced any issues with sprocket. infact i had gone to service center today they checked chain and tightened it. they never said anything about replacement.


Finally if you need classic 500 go n get it. you need to experience bullet once in lifetime. if you want more stable bike for years to come and you have very less time for the bike, then i would ask you to look elsewhere. saying this due to personal experiences the problems i have faced in one yr of ownership.
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Old 7th November 2012, 15:27   #2813
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

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Originally Posted by Endofdayz View Post
Thanks for the reply arizonajim.
the also showed error saying crankshaft malfunction. this happens due to low battery charge. they then concluded since it was raining the battery and electric start terminal might have collected some deposits. answer would be : NO. after owning TBTS 350 and desert storm 500.
crankshaft malfunction is default and does not happen due to low battery charge. It will show up even on a brand new bike. It is because bike is stationery and sensors related to crankshaft are not reporting any data.
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Old 7th November 2012, 15:45   #2814
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

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Originally Posted by iron.head View Post
crankshaft malfunction is default and does not happen due to low battery charge. It will show up even on a brand new bike. It is because bike is stationery and sensors related to crankshaft are not reporting any data.
Iron head, though i dont remember the error exactly it had something to do with crankshaft. if you want i will get more details. but i remember that whenever the battery volts were not enough for ES to crank the engine this error use to pop up. i got an explanation saying this is due to low battery charge nothing to do with crankshaft exactly.
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Old 7th November 2012, 15:56   #2815
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

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Originally Posted by Thar4x4 View Post
Guys,

This is awsome thread for Classic 500 and every page contain useful information for owners however it hard to go through each and every page as its allready 188 .

I am booking Classic 500 (green/blue, can't fine the right name for this color anywhere) on Diwali Padwa. The waiting period 5 months but dealer said it can be delivered before as well. I owned RE STD 350 CI for 3.5 yrs and now moving to 500.

So I want to learn couple of things before the delivery,

1. Is EFI system is good/hassle free, will it be an issue in remote areas?
2. What I learned from many post is changing the silencer to after market is not advisable however I can see 99.99% Classic either fit goldstar or up swift?
3. I will use this bike for daily commute as well occasional long rides, will that make seance or its strictly long ride bike?
4. Is there huge difference in power/performance in Classic 350 and 500. I got chance to ride both at showroom however that was for 5 minutes in traffic.
5. My mech says Classic 500 have chain spoket issue and one need to change that in every 10K or some kms?

Thanks,
Vishal.
Congratulations on your plan to book a Classic 500. I have read the entire thread multiple times so you need not worry!

1. EFI system is perfectly hassel free and won't be an issue in remote areas as such. Just like cars(all come with FI/ECU) can fail, a EFI powered bike can fail too, but there is no specific issue related to the EFI/ECU used in Classic 500. However, if you face any issue due to the EFI, you will have to take your bike to a RE authorized service center for diagnosis and repairs.

2. Yes, it is true that we should not use after-market free flow exhausts but you can use the RE supplied upswept exhaust which does not come with the free flow bend pipe anymore. So it can safely be used.

3. You can use this bike for permanent city use/permanent highway use or a mix of both. People have been using Classic 500 for city rides with 0 issues from a long time. The oil flow in UCE's is good enough to avoid any overheating issues. New Classic 500's come with a mod which ensures that upper half of the engine is hotter than the lower half which allows the lower half to remain comparatively cooler. The upper half has a lot of fins which helps it to get cooled down nicely with the blowing air.

4. The difference is huge and you will be smitten by the awesome torque produced by the Classic 500. Just dont think about the Classic 350 if you can afford the price gap and mileage.

5. hahaha. most mechanics know nothing about the UCE breed of enfields and make up stories so that people buy older generation enfields and then later come to them for repairs. No specific issue related to chain/sprocket. If you keep it nicely cleaned and oiled, it will last long enough.

Classic 500 has been a host to more than 150 changes/improvements and now the bike is free from all major issues. Just do the running in properly, give your bike some warm up time and get the oil and oil filter changed 2-3 times during the first few thousand kms and all will be well!

Last edited by iron.head : 7th November 2012 at 15:59.
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Old 7th November 2012, 16:01   #2816
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

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Originally Posted by Thar4x4 View Post
My mech says Classic 500 have chain spoket issue and one need to change that in every 10K or some kms?
Ha! This, IMHO, is absolute baloney!! If there actually was an issue, it would hav ebeen a design flaw and hence rectified sooner or later (like the "Bolt That Ripped My Crankcase" scene). If the rider doesn't abuse the bike, almost any component will last long enough. Your mechanic has publicly displayed his intentions, now you know who you must not take your new Classic to

Cheers,
Rahul
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Old 7th November 2012, 16:04   #2817
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

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Originally Posted by Endofdayz View Post
Iron head, though i dont remember the error exactly it had something to do with crankshaft. if you want i will get more details. but i remember that whenever the battery volts were not enough for ES to crank the engine this error use to pop up. i got an explanation saying this is due to low battery charge nothing to do with crankshaft exactly.
Crankshaft positioning sensor malfunction error shows up on every Classic 500 which is connected to a PC for diagnosis and the bike is not started. If you start the bike then this error will go away as the sensor will start reporting data. If the battery volts are not enough and the bike doesn't crank you will see this error just like you will se it on any bike which is not started. That's all to it.
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Old 7th November 2012, 17:24   #2818
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

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Originally Posted by Endofdayz View Post
let me try and answer few of your queries though im not an expert.
Hey thanks for answering my every query. About the other bikes no man once you ride RE no other bike will impress you. I sold my STD 350 as I was unable to ride it in traffic and was looking for all the other bikes but I felt that something is missing and I found that in Classic.

Quote:
Originally Posted by iron.head View Post
Congratulations on your plan to book a Classic 500. I have read the entire thread multiple times so you need not worry!

1. EFI system is perfectly hassel free and won't be an issue in remote areas as such. Just like cars(all come with FI/ECU) can fail, a EFI powered bike can fail too, but there is no specific issue related to the EFI/ECU used in Classic 500. However, if you face any issue due to the EFI, you will have to take your bike to a RE authorized service center for diagnosis and repairs.

That's cool, now I will not bother about that

2. Yes, it is true that we should not use after-market free flow exhausts but you can use the RE supplied upswept exhaust which does not come with the free flow bend pipe anymore. So it can safely be used.

Ok, showroom guy told me that the upswept is aftermarket and not manufactured by RE.

3. You can use this bike for permanent city use/permanent highway use or a mix of both. People have been using Classic 500 for city rides with 0 issues from a long time. The oil flow in UCE's is good enough to avoid any overheating issues. New Classic 500's come with a mod which ensures that upper half of the engine is hotter than the lower half which allows the lower half to remain comparatively cooler. The upper half has a lot of fins which helps it to get cooled down nicely with the blowing air.

Wow, I am more than happy to learn this.

4. The difference is huge and you will be smitten by the awesome torque produced by the Classic 500. Just dont think about the Classic 350 if you can afford the price gap and mileage.

Yes, I also observed that but was waiting for long term ownership experience.

5. hahaha. most mechanics know nothing about the UCE breed of enfields and make up stories so that people buy older generation enfields and then later come to them for repairs. No specific issue related to chain/sprocket. If you keep it nicely cleaned and oiled, it will last long enough.

My bad he is A.S.S and I serviced my STD with them for last 3.5 yrs

Classic 500 has been a host to more than 150 changes/improvements and now the bike is free from all major issues. Just do the running in properly, give your bike some warm up time and get the oil and oil filter changed 2-3 times during the first few thousand kms and all will be well!
Cool, so my wait of 2 yrs is fruitfull.

Thanks for descriptive help and answering every query.


Quote:
Originally Posted by voodoochild View Post
Ha! This, IMHO, is absolute baloney!! If there actually was an issue, it would hav ebeen a design flaw and hence rectified sooner or later (like the "Bolt That Ripped My Crankcase" scene). If the rider doesn't abuse the bike, almost any component will last long enough. Your mechanic has publicly displayed his intentions, now you know who you must not take your new Classic to

Cheers,
Rahul
That is awesome but my bad, he is A.S.S and I serviced my bike for 3.5 yrs with them. Lucky I use to ask them to do regular servicing instead of using there head :P

Thanks,
Vishal
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Old 8th November 2012, 05:48   #2819
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

My take on the "chain sprocket issues" on the 500cc fuel injected UCE.

The one thing I felt I should replace after riding about 5,000 km (3100 miles) was the chain.

Most of my riding is at a speed of 75 kmph (50 mph) along with two, 330 km (205 mile) road trips at an average speed of 103 kmph (64 mph).
This sort of riding should not damage or wear the chain.

Even so, I had to adjust the chain tension 4 times as the motorcycle reached this 5000 km distance and quite frankly, to us here in America that is excessive.
A quality motorcycle drive chain on a low 28 hp bike like the RE 500 should not need to be adjusted more than once in this distance.

I always lubricated the chain with a dedicated motorcycle chain lube (PJ-1) every other time I refilled my fuel tank (about 500 km) but the chain continued to wear and stretch, becoming quite sloppy (side to side).

Although I did need to adjust the chain several times, both the front and rear sprockets had no sign of wear on them.

I purchased a new American made motorcycle drive chain (530 X 102) to replace the OEM and adjusted it after installation.

After riding the motorcycle 7250 km (4500 miles) the new chain was becoming slightly loose so as a part of my 7500 mile (12,000 km) required service I adjusted it for the first time.

The sprockets still show no sign of wear.

IMO, the only thing that will damage the sprockets is failure to adjust the chain when it becomes sloppy or worn.
A loose or badly worn chain can bend or break the teeth on the sprockets but this is true with any chain driven motorcycle.

By the way, for those interested, to find if the chain needs adjustment with the motorcycle sitting on the center stand, choose a place about in the middle of the lower run of the chain and pull it down. Measure the distance to the ground.
Then, push it up at the same location and measure the distance to the ground.

The difference between the measurements should be about 50mm (2 inches).
If it is greater than this, plan on having it adjusted.
If it is less than 25mm, plan on having it adjusted.

It is important to note that these measurements are taken with the bike on the center stand. If it is sitting on its wheels, the movement of the chain will be considerably less than 50mm because the location of the rear swing arm pivot tightens the chain when the springs are compressed.

Last edited by ArizonaJim : 8th November 2012 at 05:49.
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Old 8th November 2012, 10:47   #2820
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

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Originally Posted by ArizonaJim View Post
Even so, I had to adjust the chain tension 4 times as the motorcycle reached this 5000 km distance and quite frankly, to us here in America that is excessive.
Oh man! I've run 8000km on my current chain, and its been tensioned just twice! Once at 2000km and once at 5200km. But then, it runs in a fully enclosed chaincase. I don't ride a Bullet though.

There is unusually high wear in a new chain (more so when used with new sprockets), so it needs tensioning about twice before it "beds in". This is usually in the first 3000km. But 4 times in 5000km is a stretch (pun unintended of course).


Quote:
Originally Posted by ArizonaJim View Post
A quality motorcycle drive chain on a low 28 hp bike like the RE 500 should not need to be adjusted more than once in this distance.
Jim! Thou shalt not utter "quality" and "RE" in the same breath!


Quote:
Originally Posted by ArizonaJim View Post
I always lubricated the chain with a dedicated motorcycle chain lube (PJ-1) every other time I refilled my fuel tank (about 500 km) but the chain continued to wear and stretch, becoming quite sloppy (side to side).
There's Indian quality for you! Ain't no stoppin' us!


Quote:
Originally Posted by ArizonaJim View Post
Although I did need to adjust the chain several times, both the front and rear sprockets had no sign of wear on them.
Isn't it advisable to change the sprockets too, with the chain? From the PoV of uniform wear and all.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ArizonaJim View Post
I purchased a new American made motorcycle drive chain (530 X 102) to replace the OEM and adjusted it after installation.

After riding the motorcycle 7250 km (4500 miles) the new chain was becoming slightly loose so as a part of my 7500 mile (12,000 km) required service I adjusted it for the first time.
Refer to above statement on Indian quality

Quote:
Originally Posted by ArizonaJim View Post
If it is greater than this, plan on having it adjusted.
If it is less than 25mm, plan on having it adjusted.
A little observation by me: A slightly loose chain is better than a chain that's slightly too tight.

Cheers,
Rahul
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