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Old 16th November 2012, 14:28   #2836
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Hi Guys,

Has anybody used a K&N Oil filter in thier Classic 500? If yes, what is the part number? any significant benefits over the OEM one?

Cheers
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Old 17th November 2012, 18:50   #2837
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Invader
Hi Guys,

Has anybody used a K&N Oil filter in thier Classic 500? If yes, what is the part number? any significant benefits over the OEM one?

Cheers
I'm currently using the K&N filter on my DS500. Can see a clear improvement of low-mid range performance. Bike is a lot smoother and power delivery is clean. Unfortunately, I installed the upswept at the same time as the K&N, so can't be absolutely sure about what contributed to this :-) I'm going to be installing the stock silencer in a little while and will let you know the result.
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Old 17th November 2012, 21:35   #2838
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

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Originally Posted by smurthy2807 View Post
I'm currently using the K&N filter on my DS500. Can see a clear improvement of low-mid range performance. Bike is a lot smoother and power delivery is clean. Unfortunately, I installed the upswept at the same time as the K&N, so can't be absolutely sure about what contributed to this :-) I'm going to be installing the stock silencer in a little while and will let you know the result.
Upswept actually robs the bike of some performance.
You will be better off with a stock exhaust.
Also update us with the K&N results,and please post model number as well.
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Old 17th November 2012, 22:02   #2839
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

I am confused & trying to reason why upswept robs performance. In theory I believe it is more free flowing than the stock right?

Is it because the ecu is not remaped for this change?
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Old 17th November 2012, 22:45   #2840
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

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I am confused & trying to reason why upswept robs performance. In theory I believe it is more free flowing than the stock right?

Is it because the ecu is not remaped for this change?
i dont think so,and it is due to the short muffler it robs the bike of top end performance.
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Old 18th November 2012, 00:52   #2841
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

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Originally Posted by siddharth_menon View Post
I am confused & trying to reason why upswept robs performance. In theory I believe it is more free flowing than the stock right?

Is it because the ecu is not remaped for this change?
A free flowing exhaust system usually results in a greater amount of air being brought into the engine during the intake stroke.

The ecu sensors do not recognize this change so the quantity of fuel injected remains constant for any given speed or throttle setting. This results in a lean condition.

Lean fuel/air ratios may increase fuel economy slightly but they do not produce the power of a richer mixture. This usually results in a loss of low and mid-range engine speed torque.
The worst case scenario can result in a burned exhaust valve or exhaust valve seat.

A free flowing exhaust system most noticeable change in addition to the noise and loss of torque is a tendency to backfire often during deceleration.

To the best of my knowledge there is no way to reprogram or modify the logic of the ecu. I believe one company has offered a very expensive module to work in conjunction with the RE's ecu which will modify the fuel ratio but the last thing I read about this system is it causes more problems than it fixes.

Speaking of changing the silencer I replaced my OEM version with a Harley Sportster type. These are usually removed by Harley owners because they are too quiet.

After the replacement I noticed a large drop in performance, not because the Harley silencer was too open but because it was too restrictive.

It had a welded in baffle plugging up what would have been a straight thru pipe. The purpose of this baffle was to divert the exhaust inside the silencer thru perforations in the pipes walls inside the silencer to reduce the noise.

Wanting to avoid a lean air/fuel ratio and find my old power, I proceeded to drill a few small holes thru the baffle and then test ride the bike to see if a performance increase without backfiring was gained.

It took several drillings and testings before I found a suitable condition.

Now, my RE has its old power, a less bulky silencer and a 5kg weight loss and it seldom backfires so I'm a happy camper.
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Last edited by ArizonaJim : 18th November 2012 at 01:14.
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Old 18th November 2012, 19:34   #2842
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

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A free flowing exhaust system usually results in a greater amount of air being brought into the engine during the intake stroke.
Hi ArizonaJim!

Little help from your side is needed. I wanted to check the health of my C5's battery so I connected a multimeter and checked a few readings-

11.92V : With ignition turned off.
11.47V : With ignition turned on and engine kill switch on off and holding the day flash switch. Value returned back to 11.92V after I released the day flash switch.
11.81V : Minimum value when engine kill switch was turned on and the fuel pump was engaged. Reading returned back to 11.92V after pump sound was gone.
9.91V : Minimum value when self start was engaged to start the bike.
13.50V : When bike was started(idling) and no lights, indicators, etc were turned on.

I have been observing from the past month that horns are not as powerful as many other times and also the starter motor is working more to start the bike because of low voltage being supplied from battery.

I got the battery once charged from a battery shop and the water level in the battery is always near full. Yet, the battery lost it's crisp nature in a few days.
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Old 19th November 2012, 04:08   #2843
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

The voltages you show look to be a little on the low side but not low enough to indicate a defective battery.
From the day a battery is first used it starts to wear out so, slightly lower values aren't unexpected.

Below is a link to a video made by Singhg5 which shows the voltage tests he did on his fuel injected G5 (Electra).

I believe his tests were done with a fairly new battery so the voltages are slightly higher than the readings you show.
The important thing is that the system voltage should be over 14 volts at higher engine speeds. If they are lower than this it will take a loooooong time to recharge the battery after an electric start.


When you've seen the video on electrical testing, don't forget to check out the other videos he has made with his Royal Enfield.
He is a master of creating these and they are all very informative and well done.
You can copy the videos location and then open it in its own window. In that window you will not only see the video but many more that are available.

Last edited by ArizonaJim : 19th November 2012 at 04:11.
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Old 19th November 2012, 12:03   #2844
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Hi, I'd like to know how to kick start these bikes... With the new gen classic as there is no decompression lever.. how do I kick start these bikes. I've a new DS500, couldn't kick start it.. sheepishly use the self start. Thank you.

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Originally Posted by Endofdayz View Post
let me try and answer few of your queries though im not an expert.

1. Is EFI system is good/hassle free, will it be an issue in remote areas?

A: yes they are reliable. i have faced issues bike switching off. due to incompetency of Service centers i had to face lot of problems. but mind you once you buy 500 the road side mechanics and their comments needs to ignored. also you cannot service it anywhere other than A.S.S as they might screw up the bike even more. my bike has run 14k kms and always given at brand store service centers.
I took the DS500 for long rides. The first of 1100kms approx. I bought the bike in Vizag and transported it by road - rode it to Bangalore . I followed all the initial running in conditions as prescribed in Manual. I got the first 500kms service done midway at Vijaywada. Started the next day for bangalore - what followed was a ride through cyclonic incessant rain for the next 10hrs to bangalore. There were no glitches. Next long ride was a 500kms stretch - Bangalore - Tiruvanamalai - Bangalore. No issues encountered there too. What I did hate is the bad paint job, peeling chrome etc.

Last edited by mobike008 : 19th November 2012 at 15:53. Reason: back to back posts under 30 minutes
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Old 19th November 2012, 14:29   #2845
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

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Originally Posted by Endofdayz View Post
let me try and answer few
Quote:
Originally Posted by iron.head View Post
Congratulations on your plan to book a Classic 500.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ArizonaJim View Post
A free flowing exhaust system usually results in a greater amount of air being ...
Thanks guys for all the information. Finally I booked Classic 500 Ocean Green , the waiting period is 5 months max

Now I am looking for some modifications and I have 2 top priority as below:
1. Handle bar: The stock handle bar is short and it is hard to control bike in city traffic, so I am thinking of off road handle bar which is bigger and gives better control on bike.

2. Silencer: I went through couple of posts on this thread as well as other threads however every one is suggesting to keep the stock (straight / long) silencer as the ECU is programmed with it. But the sound is very low and it can't gives bullet feel.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Vishal
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Old 19th November 2012, 16:01   #2846
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

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i dont think so,and it is due to the short muffler it robs the bike of top end performance.
I agree on this aspect. I too changed my 500cc Chrome's exhaust to a local custom made.

While i am really happy with its bassy THUMP and no issues whatsoever in 1000kms that I have ridden after installing it, i too feel top-end comes down.

Couple of weeks ago went for a 300kms ride with my bullet club and i was struggling to reach 110kmph.

Btw, that ride marked a first for me :-

Rode 150kms non-stop back home without a single break and for about 100kms on highway, not a single vehicle overtook me as I was at constant 90kmph-100kmph

Dont ask me what happened to my behind after reaching home
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Old 20th November 2012, 04:39   #2847
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

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Originally Posted by Ninja75 View Post
Hi, I'd like to know how to kick start these bikes... With the new gen classic as there is no decompression lever.. how do I kick start these bikes. I've a new DS500, couldn't kick start it.. sheepishly use the self start. Thank you.
My method of kick starting my 500cc UCE is to press down on the kick starter lever until I feel the resistance caused by the compression.

At this point, the automatic compression release will be actuated so a little more force on the kick start lever will move the piston up to TDC where suddenly very little force is needed to rotate the engine crankshaft.
At this place, I stop pushing the kick starter.

After allowing the kick starter lever to return to the top of its stroke, a good strong push on it will rotate the engine thru the next intake stroke and compression stroke and 9 times out of 10 the engine will start.

I have found that my RE doesn't like its throttle touched during starting although when it's very cold, moving the "Bi-Starter" lever down seems to help.
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Old 21st November 2012, 19:37   #2848
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

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Originally Posted by Thar4x4 View Post
Thanks guys for all the information. Finally I booked Classic 500 Ocean Green , the waiting period is 5 months max

Now I am looking for some modifications and I have 2 top priority as below:
1. Handle bar: The stock handle bar is short and it is hard to control bike in city traffic, so I am thinking of off road handle bar which is bigger and gives better control on bike.

2. Silencer: I went through couple of posts on this thread as well as other threads however every one is suggesting to keep the stock (straight / long) silencer as the ECU is programmed with it. But the sound is very low and it can't gives bullet feel.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Vishal
I think the stock handlebar is pretty comfortable and I suggest that you don't change anything for the first few months. Do the running-in very carefully, give your bike some warm up time. Get the oil changed first at 100-200 kms, then at some 600-800 kms and then at 1500-1700 kms. Later get it changed every 3000 kms. Maintain the right tyre pressure all the time. If you plan to use the kick-start. First hold/press the clutch fully(without Ignition ON)and kick 1-2 times. Then use the self start or kick start to start your bike. Wish you many happy mile ahead!!

Last edited by iron.head : 21st November 2012 at 19:38.
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Old 21st November 2012, 21:41   #2849
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

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Originally Posted by iron.head View Post
I think the stock handlebar is pretty comfortable and I suggest that you don't change anything for the first few months. Do the running-in very carefully, give your bike some warm up time. Get the oil changed first at 100-200 kms, then at some 600-800 kms and then at 1500-1700 kms. Later get it changed every 3000 kms. Maintain the right tyre pressure all the time. If you plan to use the kick-start. First hold/press the clutch fully(without Ignition ON)and kick 1-2 times. Then use the self start or kick start to start your bike. Wish you many happy mile ahead!!
Wow Thanks for information iron.head however I am surprised on first oil change kms, 100-200 is very early right? what is company recommended.

Thanks,
Vishal.
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Old 21st November 2012, 22:54   #2850
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

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Wow Thanks for information iron.head however I am surprised on first oil change kms, 100-200 is very early right? what is company recommended.

Thanks,
Vishal.
RE recommends to change oil and oil filter first at 500 and then every 6k kms. The thing is, that RE still uses age-old manufacturing techniques and the engines are not as finished as those of other modern bikes. I got my C5 in January this year and found the engine and gear-shifts to be very coarse until I got oil changed at 350. Metallic abrasive particles help to polish the engine but multiple oil changes will ensure that any harmful metallic particles do not wear the engine. This way it might take a little longer to run-in but will result in a smoother engine in the end. The oil filter is cheap enough so get it changed too with every oil change.
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