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Old 18th May 2016, 15:11   #3916
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Hello,

Every morning whenever I start the Bike I can smell fuel. I have checked all points and places but there is no leak anywhere. The smell goes after about 1/2 kms of riding. The service center mechanic says it might be because I keep the tank full most of the time and the smell is from the fumes coming out from the fuel cap.

The bike is running good, no issues otherwise.
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Old 18th May 2016, 15:15   #3917
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@//M Ceat Secura for the front and Ceat Vertigo Sport at the rear are good options for CL500.

I've been using them for almost 10000 km now and performance is good both on road as well as off-road.

Vertigo Sport is a bit difficult to get hold of though.

Another option for rear that you may try is MRF Moto D, but that may require changing the rear shock absorbers to Karizma ones.
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Old 18th May 2016, 15:24   #3918
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

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Originally Posted by //M View Post
I am planning to get new set of tyres for my Classic 500 before the monsoons start in another month or so. I know there are lot of options in Ceat, MRF, etc but I am a little confused as to which one should I go for.
I got a CEAT Zoom 120/80-18 for my rear tyre & a 3.25-19 Michelin Sirac Street for the front just a couple of weeks back and I did a Bangalore trip from Mumbai on those too.

Both performed beautifully. When I reached Bangalore, it started raining. The CEAT Zoom worked better than expected on wet roads too, far better than the earlier MRF Zappers.

The Michelin Sirac on the front is good too. In some stretches in MH & KA, a thin upper layer of the tarmac has been drilled(?) to add a new layer above it. On that drilled road the earlier Zapper front tyre used to wobble quite a lot, thereby making it difficult to maintain any speed above 50-60 km/h. But on the Michelin, I felt very low wobbles. It inspired a lot of confidence.

If you can find these combinations, I'd suggest you go for this.
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Old 18th May 2016, 16:03   #3919
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

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Originally Posted by The Great View Post
Every morning whenever I start the Bike I can smell fuel. I have checked all points and places but there is no leak anywhere. The smell goes after about 1/2 kms of riding. The service center mechanic says it might be because I keep the tank full most of the time and the smell is from the fumes coming out from the fuel cap.
Mate this happens during cold starts as the mixture is rich which leans out when the engine reaches its operating temperature. About your mechanic telling about fumes can also be the case. As a safety precaution try checking the EFi fuel hose(for cracks) and hose clip(tightness) that holds it. This happened with me two times when RE service centre guys kept the fuel hose clip loose which resulted in petrol leak. I tightened the fuel hose clip and the smell went away.

Note: Do not over tighten the hose clip as it may damage the plastic pipe which is a part of the EFi pump. That plastic pipe cannot be repaired as a result one has to replace the whole EFi assembly. Exercise caution while you tighten it.
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Old 1st June 2016, 15:59   #3920
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Thanks for the suggestion. I took an easy solution and changed connection to a spare slot. What all I needed was just a nose player.
The empty slot is the damaged one. I shifted the connection to second from the left.

This is second time I am solving a problem with your inputs. Previously, I had a problem with the starter solenoid and I was not able to use the electric starter. I changed battery twice as suggested by service center and local mechanics!. Then I read your comments to observe parking light while using electric starter and I was able to start with slight tap on solenoid. So I changed the solenoid.
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Old 13th June 2016, 22:35   #3921
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

I am in market for new set of rubbers for my bike. I checked with quite a few dealers (both in Hubli and Bangalore, including Cherry Agencies), unfortunately none stock below profile tyres,

F - 90/90-18
R - 110/90-18

Snapdeal has all tubeless tyres (especially for 90/90-18).

ChangeMyTyre.com, shows few but I do not see any option to buy.

In case I do not find anything, what are the upgrade options I have?
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Old 14th June 2016, 09:25   #3922
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

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Originally Posted by 500ContyCruiser View Post
R - 110/90-18

Snapdeal has all tubeless tyres (especially for 90/90-18).
No harm in using the 90/90-18 with a tube.
And is it not 120/80-18 the right size for rear wheel?
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Old 14th June 2016, 12:16   #3923
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

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No harm in using the 90/90-18 with a tube.
And is it not 120/80-18 the right size for rear wheel?
Search is still ON. If I don't find anything, will consider this option.

I was trying to stick to stock size. Since I am finding it difficult to get it, so was asking for stock size.
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Old 26th June 2016, 20:51   #3924
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My DS 500 halted yesterday due to water in the tank. Removed all the water and dried the tank out. Refilled it again with clean fuel. Now the problem is that it's starting and remaining idle but when the accelerator is raised it leaves the beat and misfires. Checked with the ecu unit also and sprayed wd but still the same issue exist. Any suggestions for the same. Thanks.
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Old 27th June 2016, 00:17   #3925
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

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Originally Posted by Lightrr View Post
My DS 500 halted yesterday due to water in the tank. Removed all the water and dried the tank out. Refilled it again with clean fuel. Now the problem is that it's starting and remaining idle but when the accelerator is raised it leaves the beat and misfires. Checked with the ecu unit also and sprayed wd but still the same issue exist. Any suggestions for the same. Thanks.
Assuming for the moment, your RE has a carburetor on it, have you emptied the carb. float bowl?

Even just a few drops of water in the float bowl can cause irregular running. Typically, the idle is fairly normal but attempting to speed up the engine results in rough running or sometimes, even dying.

If your motorcycle is a fuel injected model, gently remove the fuel hose where it comes out of the fuel pump beneath the lower left rear of the tank.
(Be very careful when you remove this fuel line. The plastic pump outlet can easily be broken by rough handling and once that happens, there is no repair possible short of buying a new, very expensive pump.)

With the injector fuel line disconnected, try to dump all of the fuel that is in it, out. This will remove any water that is in the hose.

When you replace the fuel line onto the pump outlet, it's a good idea to wipe a little grease or oil on the fitting to help the hose slide in place.
Tighten the hose clamp securely but don't over do it.
The clamp must be tight enough to prevent any escape of the pressurized fuel but not so tight that it crushes the plastic outlet.
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Old 27th June 2016, 11:42   #3926
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Thanks. I tried the fuel pump removal thing and dried out it a little bit. Then fitted it back and tried. The engine at idle is ok but when throttle is open it leaves the beat. is there anything related to throttle body ? As i just changed my accelerator cable also.
Other thing i did was swapping the ecu of another DS 500 ( friends bike ) but it responds in the similar passion. So feel that the ecu is perfect. Even the when ignition key is on, the fuel motor sounds normal.
One thing i did change yesterday was the black fuel pipe on LHS under the tank which connects to the fuel pump. And as you said if it is tight enough then it may block. So i will check on that. Does the length matters ?

Regards,
Lightrrr
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Old 28th June 2016, 00:32   #3927
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

As your motorcycle is fuel injected, yes, there are sensors on the throttle body which measure the atmospheric pressure and the throttle position.
Neither of these would be touched if you just replace the throttle (accelerator) cable. The cables only interface with the throttle body is to wrap around the pulley on the right side.

Although they should remain untouched when you replace the throttle cable, it is possible one of the electrical connectors that attach to the two sensors could have become disconnected. You might check to make sure both of them are fully plugged in.
The air pressure sensor is on top of the throttle body and the throttle position sensor is on the left side (aft looking forward) of the body.

As for replacing the fuel hose that runs from the fuel pump (lower left side of tank) to the fuel injector, it must not be kinked in any way.
If the replacement hose is too short or too long, it is possible a kink (a sharp bend that noticeably flattens the hose) may have developed in it.
If this happens, the kink will prevent a adequate flow of fuel to the injector.
When this happens the engine will idle normally but when the throttle is opened the lack of fuel will cause the engine to stumble and possibly die.

By the way, while I'm talking about that fuel injector hose, it MUST be a high pressure hose, designed specifically for fuel injection systems.
These high pressure hoses cost more and they have markings on the outside indicating they are for high pressure fuel injection use.

There is an internal fuel pressure of over 40 psi (2.721 bar) and a regular old fashioned piece of tubing meant for use with a carburetor cannot withstand the pressure.
Using a regular hose may cause it to rupture and spray fuel all over the place.
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Old 1st July 2016, 04:00   #3928
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Hi guys my local mechanic has asked me to replace all spokes of both wheels on my classic 500. He says that quite a few are rusted and loose and cannot be tightened. All inputs welcome. Thank you.
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Old 1st July 2016, 09:37   #3929
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Hi guys my local mechanic has asked me to replace all spokes of both wheels on my classic 500. He says that quite a few are rusted and loose and cannot be tightened. All inputs welcome. Thank you.
How old is your CL500? let's presume it is 6 years old since UCE CL500 started production in 2010. How many km's has it run? let's presume 40K odd. I am not sure this age and running figures would warrant changing all the spokes on your CL500. My 2004 AVL Tbird 350 and 1996 Standard CI 350 are still on their original spokes and are running good rust or no rust.

Still if you want to go ahead with changing them then it wont hurt much as them individual spokes are not very expensive.

Last edited by navin_v8 : 1st July 2016 at 09:38.
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Old 1st July 2016, 10:12   #3930
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Thank you Navin, though it is just 3 years old, done about 40k kms as I had been on an All India Tour including Nepal and Bhutan followed by a ride to Spiti, in addition to a lot of local action.
The mechanic says I will have to change all the spokes of both wheels as they are available only in sets. Estimated cost 1.2k - 1.5k.

Cheers

Quote:
Originally Posted by navin_v8 View Post
How old is your CL500? let's presume it is 6 years old since UCE CL500 started production in 2010. How many km's has it run? let's presume 40K odd. I am not sure this age and running figures would warrant changing all the spokes on your CL500. My 2004 AVL Tbird 350 and 1996 Standard CI 350 are still on their original spokes and are running good rust or no rust.

Still if you want to go ahead with changing them then it wont hurt much as them individual spokes are not very expensive.
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