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Old 28th August 2010, 12:31   #571
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@amarprusty:

My C5 gives around 28 -30 kmpl (X-tra premium), in Bangalore city condition.

Recently i did a 300kms highway ride in a day, (typically riding at 70-80) with a few occasional bursts, and the bike returned an average on 34-35 kmpl.

I think there is not much point comparing an RE model to another RE model with respect to maintenance, leaks, etc.

All RE bikes will have certain issues, regardless of whether is a C5 or C3.5. Only the degree and type of issues may differ. (would also greatly depend on how lucky you are, for eg some C5s may run without any issues at all, where as some will keep having small niggles). I personally call the perfect bikes from RE stable as "manufacturing defects" which are one in hundred.. he he.

So first you have to decide whether its a 500 or 350, that answer would come from within. For people, u want 500cc, there is no other way. Its GOT to be a 500CC. Even if it comes with certain niggles.

If its 350cc, than you have options such as C3.5, TBTS, electra UCE, and standard UCE. deciding among them may really get tough, as one would score over other in some aspects.
If you can try and explain your requirement in greater detail, fellow members would be able to guide you to make a wise decision.

REMEMBER: Listen to all, analyse the info collected, and go for the one which you really feel for.
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Old 28th August 2010, 17:22   #572
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I met a Korean gentleman today at Karol Bagh. He told me that some bolt got loose in his clutch assy and wreaked havoc inside. The bike was a C5.
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Old 28th August 2010, 17:56   #573
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Quote:
I met a Korean gentleman today at Karol Bagh. He told me that some bolt got loose in his clutch assy and wreaked havoc inside. The bike was a C5.
That Korean guy must be the NUT connecting the handlebar to the seat of his C5. (pun intended)

Yeah.. But loose nuts/bolts have always been related to RE, well supported by the vibes generated by the large single cylinder. I have heard cases of silencer falling-off as the bolts got loose. I have lost so many of them on my machismo 350. Wish RE gave more attention to these smaller details.
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Old 28th August 2010, 23:19   #574
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hi. I actually went to book the TBTS, then i saw the shiny green CL5 standing there. Took her for a spin, & i jus booked my CL5 today
but it was under the written condition that it would take 240 days to deliver (8 months!!). I'm supposed to wait that long???
i'll seriously go nuts by the time i get the bike.
And rhandawa mentioned bout the handlebar and the seats if you want to go cruising. anybody know where to get them???
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Old 28th August 2010, 23:54   #575
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With great powers come great responsibilities and some extra vibrations. I am sure lads(c5 owners) we will learn to live with it and overcome. Other wise what's the point of owning an RE if the bull doesn't talk to us. We will miss the connection for which we love the RE bulls and it becomes a part of our spirit.
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Old 29th August 2010, 13:51   #576
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@nasirkaka

I had my silencer fall off, the rear seat holding bolt fall off... among others.
With the amount the bull vibrates above 90, I am not even surprised.

I got a new seat again.
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Old 29th August 2010, 19:01   #577
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EssYouWe View Post
@nasirkaka

I had my silencer fall off, the rear seat holding bolt fall off... among others.
With the amount the bull vibrates above 90, I am not even surprised.

I got a new seat again.
EssYouWe I don't think this is normal, and therefore acceptable. Get your bike checked for correct alignment of front and rear sprockets, as well as correct torque of engine fastners and frame.

This bike is pretty smooth even for a 350 version.

cheers.
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Old 30th August 2010, 17:37   #578
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randhawa View Post
@Amar- If you stick to 80-90km/h then you will get around 28-32km/L but if you can thump along at 65 then you will easily get around 35km/L for C5.

There is no difference in engine except the chassis/ tyre size and looks between Electra and C3.

TBTS share the same engine, actually I should say that the classic engine platform was borrowed from TBTS.

Oil leak was in few and it was due to the quality control problem. The plate which goes over the kick shaft had not so perfect facing inside and misaligned so the oil leaked. I haven't seen any leaks on recent classics or any other UCE engine. False neutral is actually not an issue but needs running in. After first service it keeps improving.
Thanks for the feedback Randhawa & Nasirkaka

I am getting the EFI- C5 from RE showroom in Jayanagar for a weekend ownership ride,anyways the waiting is 8 months so there is no hurry as well in deciding.

In 350CC there are lot of choices like C3.5,Electra,TBTS,if I eliminate C5 then it becomes tough decision to choose between all the above,what fuel economy can we expect from the 350 bulls?

Will take each for weekend rides courtsey RE and then decide based on the test drives.
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Old 30th August 2010, 18:10   #579
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^^ hey Amar after the 4 wheeled bullet moving to the 2 wheeled one ? All the best bro.
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Old 30th August 2010, 21:58   #580
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bradhey View Post
EssYouWe I don't think this is normal, and therefore acceptable. Get your bike checked for correct alignment of front and rear sprockets, as well as correct torque of engine fastners and frame.

This bike is pretty smooth even for a 350 version.

cheers.
The bolt and the silencer fell off due to human error. The guys who fixed them did not tighten them enough.
And I was just kidding about the vibrations, as in they are just as bad as any normal bullet...not worse for sure! Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by amarprusty View Post
Thanks for the feedback Randhawa & Nasirkaka

I am getting the EFI- C5 from RE showroom in Jayanagar for a weekend ownership ride,anyways the waiting is 8 months so there is no hurry as well in deciding.

In 350CC there are lot of choices like C3.5,Electra,TBTS,if I eliminate C5 then it becomes tough decision to choose between all the above,what fuel economy can we expect from the 350 bulls?

Will take each for weekend rides courtsey RE and then decide based on the test drives.
I get figures of 38-42 kmpl with 70:30 (C:H).
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Old 31st August 2010, 18:02   #581
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sammyboy View Post
^^ hey Amar after the 4 wheeled bullet moving to the 2 wheeled one ? All the best bro.
4-wheeled bullet Palio MJD is rock solid,2.5 yrs and no worries.

Have been dreaming for a bullet since childhood,finaly the day has arrived

I am getting a C5 for 11th-12th Sept returning it on Monday morning to RE Showroom.

Lets go for a ride togather long time havent met.
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Old 1st September 2010, 13:09   #582
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Hey guys,

Was contemplating changing the rear tyre.

Came across the two suggested options of Michelin M45 or 18'' Pirelli sports demon.

Any feedback on which would be a better option, considering the usual/typical usage (mix of city and highway, dry and wet, and some off-roading as well).

How much difference would it make compared to the stock tyre. What would be the cost of these two?
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Old 1st September 2010, 17:54   #583
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Mikchelin M45 I think comes only with 4x18 which is roughly 101x18. Although I personally feel the grip or tread pattern is far better then the Pirelli SD for soft off-roading but it will be skinner then 110x18.

Had good feedback on P SD ones but its soft rubber so wear is more and not too good for soft off-roading.

It should make a big difference for sure and less noisy compared to Zapper Q 110x90x18 which are not available at any MRF dealer down here so we dont even have a choice of tyres once we wear our OEM fitment tyre at rear.

Rear tyre on mine has done its life at 15k and the middle looks more like a slick tyre now. Till now I have been struggling to find any tyre of 110x90x18 size.

I am going in for Pirelli SD but cant find it in my city. Will be going to Delhi to get one, I hope its available there.

No clue about the M45 but I think the P SD is around 2.5k
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Old 1st September 2010, 22:17   #584
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@Nasir- Found out the price for M45, PlanetDSG is selling it for Rs 1950.

Sharing info on not so common electrical problem on C5

Today someone asked me a question about a electrical problem so I thought of sharing with you all which I had previously experienced.

I had my first electrical problem few months back which turned out to be the loose ignition switch connector. The thimbles are of flimsy quality and tend to flex inside the connector thus creating a loose connection. Also the ignition switch assembly points gets dirty or wet and causes the connection to break. Any increase in electrical load tends to break the poor connection inside the ignition switch.

Symptoms

Applying front brake will restart the priming sequence- MIL light comes on and goes away(before starting with ignition switch to on)

Turning headlight on or high beam causes the engine and all the electrical's to die. Bike would stutter(MIL light comes and goes) and carry on or completely switch off.

Turning the ignition key will bring back all the electrical's to life and you carry on.

Turning the handle to left or right causes the on/off situation

Sudden acceleration causes the engine to shut off with all the electrical's off

Remedy-Precautionary measures

Check the ignition switch connector for loose wires either pull the wires and see if they come out of the connector. Check for any carbon deposit or any bluish white deposit on the thimbles if you see any - Then clean the contacts and connect the connectors.

With the ignition switch we cant do much as its a sealed assembly.
Avoid any water spray over the switch specially when the bike is getting serviced or being washed with a pressure jet. You could just use a inch of tape to mask the ignition switch.

Sometimes the ignition switch becomes a bit stiff when you turn the key to on position. Do not spray WD40 into the key hole rather use a drop of wd40 into the hole.

Push the key hole shutter a bit and blow compressed air into it.


If problem persist then get a new key/lock set. That all to it.

Last edited by Randhawa : 1st September 2010 at 22:19.
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Old 2nd September 2010, 12:57   #585
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Thanks Randhawa for the price info on the tyre. Will check out here in Bangalore and update.

Also what woud be the implications of just changing the rear tyre? Or will it make more sense to change both?

Quote:
Remedy-Precautionary measures

Check the ignition switch connector for loose wires either pull the wires and see if they come out of the connector. Check for any carbon deposit or any bluish white deposit on the thimbles if you see any - Then clean the contacts and connect the connectors.

With the ignition switch we cant do much as its a sealed assembly.
Avoid any water spray over the switch specially when the bike is getting serviced or being washed with a pressure jet. You could just use a inch of tape to mask the ignition switch.

Sometimes the ignition switch becomes a bit stiff when you turn the key to on position. Do not spray WD40 into the key hole rather use a drop of wd40 into the hole.

Push the key hole shutter a bit and blow compressed air into it.


If problem persist then get a new key/lock set. That all to it.
Just to add to the above:

DO NOT use a heavy key chain, or key ring with lots of other keys. As the load + vibrations tend to make the connectors loose on side the ignition switch.

Also, getting the ignition switch replaced is an easy option, but a VERY DIFFICULT one to live with. As you will have to use one key for ignition, and another for handle lock, and rest of the locks. And overtime, this gets very irritating. (From my personal experience with the machismo)

This ignition switch loose contact problem is quite a common one with all enfields, guess its high time RE did something to improve them.
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