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Old 11th September 2010, 20:26   #631
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Hi Guys,

Need your thoughts on following 2 points

1) For oil drain, we have primary drain and secondary drain. I am just done with my 9K service and I asked my mech to also open primary drain and he said it's not required. I didn't insist much. But after reading the manual again, I became a bit skeptical. The Service guy has never opened the primary drain in any service (I know because I get my bike serviced in front of my bike). Now the question is how important to open Primary drain and clean suction filter? If it's very important, can I do it at home? I am not sure how easy is to fix the suction filter back. Please help

2) I have put extra horn on my bike. The same mech had done the wiring and all, but without a fuse. So my question is how important to have a fuse. I have still bought a TBTS (15A) fuse and gonna put it between the Battery +ve and horn relay. But again where should I hide this fuse? I know it's silly question but just wanted to know, where you guys had put the fuse.
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Old 11th September 2010, 21:33   #632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madhkris View Post
Randhawa, although we are happy for you it is sad to hear that you will be away from among us. Your thread has been useful not just for the C5 owners but for all bullet fans and lovers. I have been glued to your thread from day1. Hope that you continue to guide us from Canada. Your knowledge and experience recorded here is already like a manual on maintaining a C5. All the best to you for your future. Godspeed.
Thanks for the wishes. I'll keep updating as long as I have some substantial info on C5.

Quote:
Originally Posted by EssYouWe View Post
And I thought you were just going to give away Anastassia to me for safekeeping.

Thanks for the tips on the fork oil change. I still haven't found 300v! Hadh hai! No service, so no riding nowadays.

PS: When am I getting my long awaited treat?
Anastassia is not meant to be caged so I'll let her have her freedom forever

You cant find 300v in Delhi is a bit surprising, why dont you make a trip here so you will get your treat and oil at the same time?

Quote:
Originally Posted by virtualhemant View Post
Hi Guys,

Need your thoughts on following 2 points

1) For oil drain, we have primary drain and secondary drain. I am just done with my 9K service and I asked my mech to also open primary drain and he said it's not required. I didn't insist much. But after reading the manual again, I became a bit skeptical. The Service guy has never opened the primary drain in any service (I know because I get my bike serviced in front of my bike). Now the question is how important to open Primary drain and clean suction filter? If it's very important, can I do it at home? I am not sure how easy is to fix the suction filter back. Please help

2) I have put extra horn on my bike. The same mech had done the wiring and all, but without a fuse. So my question is how important to have a fuse. I have still bought a TBTS (15A) fuse and gonna put it between the Battery +ve and horn relay. But again where should I hide this fuse? I know it's silly question but just wanted to know, where you guys had put the fuse.

A. Its shocking to know that the mech has never opened or cleaned the drain filter. Without opening the secondary drain its not easy to drain the dirty oil out and there will be some oil left to contaminate the new oil.

It is of outmost importance that you get the oil filter/drain removed and clean at every oil service.

The oil in the sump gets filtered through an oill strainer(small metal filter) located in the crankcase and then pumped into the oil filter element located in the RH Cover which feeds the oil to three main parts/ branches into three areas.

1. Goes to flywheel to lubricate the crank shaft as well as barrel piston assembly.
2. feeds to the hydraulic tappets.
3. Goes to rocker assembly and drains down to RH cover chamber through the push rod tunnel.

So we know how important that tiny filter is to our engine's health. Anything left in that filter which does not gets filtered through the main oil filter will go straight to the three main parts. Although chances are less but the burr from running in period can pass through the filter and act as a liquid sand to lubricate the main parts and also clog the oil filter.

Yes you can open it at home but keep something really clean under the drain to collect the oil. I think it has two small bolts, you will need size 8 spanner to undo. Once you get it out, remove the filter and clean it. There is a small magnet as well, clean booth the things and dont forget to put the O-ring back on while putting it back.

Thats all to it.

B. Normally people don't use a fuse on a horn wiring but one should. The +ve wire coming from the battery to the horn relay when it leaves the battery terminal is a better place but if I were you then I'll run a bit of extra length of wire from the battery to the LH side electrical box and put the fuse there and from there take the wire straight to the relay.

This way the fuse will not be seen and saved from the wet weather tucked nicely inside the box.

Last edited by Randhawa : 11th September 2010 at 21:34.
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Old 11th September 2010, 22:58   #633
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HI Randhawa,
Have been a silent follower of your meticulous analysis of the C5. Just remembered an article that I read a while back about a guy who imported his Dad's bullet to Canada, but he was aided by a regulation that one could import vehicles manufactured before 1975.
Here is the link to the article.
The Hindu : Metro Plus Chennai / Wheels : Fuelled by memories

Cheers
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Old 12th September 2010, 00:04   #634
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@ZedMae- I did read about this gentleman who took his dad's bike to Canada while I was searching for any way I could import one into Canada. Unfortunately I will have to mature my C5 like a single malt before I could ride it again in Canada
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Old 14th September 2010, 00:00   #635
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Default CL 500 - Maroon Colour in Mumbai up for grabs

Hello Folks,

A neighbour of close friend of mine had booked a CL 500 (Maroon colour) at bandra showroom in Mumbai. The delivery was due a week back but he decided not to go ahead with it.

He deicided to cancel to it due to financial crunch and thats when somebody told him not to do so. I was having a word with and asked him not to cancel his booking till I check within our circle if anyone is willing to buy it out.

The dealer said if we give him a go ahead he will deliver the bike in next lot which is like two weeks waiting time approximately.

One more thing folks, I have no personal interest in this but since someone has told him that he can earn a premium he is expecting to get some incentive on his booking and the dealer is calling him to cancel his booking so he can give it to someone.

We can talk to him but kindly dont misunderstand it as something I am doing for myself.

PM me for more details.

@ Mods - Delete this post if inappropiate.
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Old 14th September 2010, 15:32   #636
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Hey Randhawa,

Would using a goldstar (replica) silencer clubbed with the BENT half of Upswept silencer, have any negative impact on the engine?
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Old 14th September 2010, 18:16   #637
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Seeing that I am a Randhawa too,

I doubt there will be any impact till the time the fit is right. If you can get the coupling complete, and the exhaust gases do not escape... there shouldn't be a problem.
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Old 14th September 2010, 23:14   #638
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@Nasir- If you dont ride it hard then its fine but I don't recommend it unless you complement the exhaust with a K & N filter. There are two cone filter available for C5 which can be fitted. But not directly behind the throttle body, it can be fitted onto the air tube which goes into the filter box. That way it wont effect the smooth airflow or create turbulence which will have a -ve impact on the air flow sensor readings.

With a free flow exhaust on a engine, it reduces back pressure(bulls need some back pressure) but helps engine exhale hot gasses easily. Its fine with normal running but when you speed up is when issues start. You have to create a balance between the two sides, intake and exhaust. Less air for engine to inhale but more easy to exhale creates temperature issues for the exhaust valve which can even lead to burnt or damaged Ex valve. Did you observed the raise in RPM when you shifted to upswept, ever wondered why it happened? It's due to reduction in back pressure and engine trying to suck in more air due to the pressure needed inside with a free flow.

I'll make it more easy for everyone in layman terms not that you need it but makes sense. Just do an easy test, inhale from one nostril from your nose but exhale from booth. So does it makes sense hey. Now feel the same for your bull and you can understand its plight.
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Old 15th September 2010, 13:28   #639
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If you dont ride it hard then its fine but I don't recommend it unless you complement the exhaust with a K & N filter.

Opps.. My ride is mixed of soft and hard depending on the road, and mood. (by hard, i mean doing 80-100 constant on highways and a few hard acceleration bursts)

There are two cone filter available for C5 which can be fitted. But not directly behind the throttle body, it can be fitted onto the air tube which goes into the filter box.

Could you give some more info on the K&N cone filters (model no.) which would suit the C5. I did not understand the fitment part. Will the K&N fit outside the current filter box? or is it possible to fit the filter inside the box? Also, i have seen some cylindrical K&N filters (like the stock ones). Wont they work?
Will fitting the K&N to the rubber hose be sturdy? I have seen some cone filters fitted directly behind the carb. But those were carbed models.

That way it wont effect the smooth airflow or create turbulence which will have a -ve impact on the air flow sensor readings.

I was worried that once we put a free-flow K&N, the air intake ratio may increase and make the bike run lean. (in carbed ones, we had option of shifting to higher jets to compensate the same), but was not sure about the C5.
Do we have a airflow sensor which will sense any increase in the amount of air, and automatically increase the amount of gas. If yes, that would be great. (hope the milege does not drop drastically)

With a free flow exhaust on a engine, it reduces back pressure(bulls need some back pressure) but helps engine exhale hot gasses easily. Its fine with normal running but when you speed up is when issues start. You have to create a balance between the two sides, intake and exhaust. Less air for engine to inhale but more easy to exhale creates temperature issues for the exhaust valve which can even lead to burnt or damaged Ex valve.

Makes sense. I thought back pressures were only effective on two strokes ALso, just in case the exhaust valve gets damaged, how severe would that be? can it be replaced easily? Here i wanted to understand the extent of the damage.

Did you observed the raise in RPM when you shifted to upswept, ever wondered why it happened? It's due to reduction in back pressure and engine trying to suck in more air due to the pressure needed inside with a free flow.

Could not observe. As before the delivery, i has asked the showroom guys to fit the bent pipe on the bike.

I'll make it more easy for everyone in layman terms not that you need it but makes sense. Just do an easy test, inhale from one nostril from your nose but exhale from booth. So does it makes sense hey. Now feel the same for your bull and you can understand its plight.

Also, how much freer would a goldie replica be, compared to an upswept? The goldie which i have has a perforated metal sheet bent like a flower inside. It sounded nice when on my machismo, especially with a large CEAT rear mudflap (meant for mini trucks) with a hole.
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Old 16th September 2010, 01:18   #640
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Fitting k&N filter on C5 is not a straight forward job but with some tweaking it can be done. It can be fitted inside as well as outside but I would prefer to fit it outside as you will need to do less work if you fit it outside. Just seal off the hole where the intake hose fits in the air box and twist the intake hose to 90 angle and attach the cone filter there. If you have the old design mud flap on the rear mudguard(towards the pivot point of the swing arm) then you just have the right place to fit it. On newer mudflap there isn't much space to fit the cone filter there.

The ones you have seen can be fitted but I think they are a bit bigger then the stock filter. Fitting it behind the intake hose will be sturdy enough to do the job but you might have to fabricate a adaptor plate. If you can find a K&N dealer around your place then have a look. There are two cone filters available in India for our Indian bikes and they are universal fitment, one is with an angle and one without the angle with steel top. Sorry not sure about the model but it could be R1060 or R1100.

Yes we have a airflow(MAP) sensor and I think you missed my post where I had labeled every thing on the intake manifold. http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorb...review-22.html

Replacing the valve is not a big job but what worries me is if the engine heats up more then required!

No experience with goldie so cant comment much but if you say you have a baffle inside the goldie then as good as an upswept.
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Old 16th September 2010, 12:33   #641
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Thanks buddy.

Will dig-up a bit more on the available K&Ns here locally.

I did a small experiment sometime back. i tried 3 silencers on the C5 - the stock, the upwept, and the goldie. There trials were done with the bike on center stand. the silencers were just inserted and held with hand in place to get a feel of the sound. A very crude method, but hearing the 3 silencers one after the other, the goldie sounded the best among all three. I had plans of making modifications on the goldie to suit mounting on the C5, but somehow never took it forward. Now i want to get that done as i hate the sound of stock as well as the up-swept silencer.

Got to sort out this freeflow airfilter business. i read on another post that K&N is developed and testing s special filter for the C5. not sure how long that will take. will go and check with the local dealer here.

ONE MORE DOUBT:
on another note, i was wondering as to how to check the engine compression on the C5? the kick lever always feels smooth and swings without any resistance. Is that cos of auto decomp? i remember, in my machismo, the kick lever use to give an indication on the compression, where at times, even if i stood on the lever, it use to hold me weight, unless manually decompressed. Not sure on the C5.??
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Old 16th September 2010, 12:45   #642
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Default Head light alignment on C5

What is the mechanism to alter the head light beam focus on C5 as mine points a bit upwards? I remember that in my old CBZ, there was a screw below the head light fairing which could be used to alter the focus level. I did not find anything of that sort in my C5 and neither does the manual talk about it.
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Old 16th September 2010, 19:49   #643
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@Nasir- Goldie might perform better then upswept due to its design as the gasses progressively enters the exhaust and bangs at the end. Where as on the upswept it expands the moment it enters the exhaust and the flow remains constant till the end.

It's just an adaptor plate you have to get it made which is max 30min job at any descent Lathe workshop.

If you want the feel for the compression then try turning the kick with your hand slowly. You will get flashback of your machismo or even better experience

Two technical ways to check compression on C5

1. With the compression meter nozzle fitted at the primary plug, hold the throttle to full and either use kick (5-6kicks) or ES to crank it(remember to take the lead off the secondary plug). Repeat it in three sets. Take the average and any healthy C5 engine should have + 120Psi compression.

2. More accurate way to do is to take the auto decomp needle out of the exhaust cam and repeat step one. But this one is a bit time consuming as you have to take off the RH side chamber and also remove the magneto to access the cams.

@Grishab- There is no way to adjust the beam on C5 but there is a simple way to DIY mod.

First of all I think you might have to change the bulb, it might have a bad angle filament. If that doesn't cure your problem then you can put a small tab under the bulb in between the reflector bulb housing and the bulb base on the bottom. That will help the bulb to be pushed back from the bottom and the bulb will dip down a bit to get the light through you want.
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Old 16th September 2010, 20:08   #644
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Quote:
1. With the compression meter nozzle fitted at the primary plug, hold the throttle to full and either use kick (5-6kicks) or ES to crank it(remember to take the lead off the secondary plug). Repeat it in three sets. Take the average and any healthy C5 engine should have + 120Psi compression.
i did not exactly understand this process.
Where to get the compression meter nozzle?
What is primary plug? ( is it the spark plug at the left side)
Will the service center guys have the compression meter? ( i doubt RE)

2nd process is too complex.


After i changed my head light to philips xtreme power, the high beam is a bit too high, illuminating trees on the side of the road. the low beam feels good, as the throw is bit more than the stock. or so it feels. some 'rubber based packing' sounds like a good DIY to adjust it slightly.
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Old 16th September 2010, 20:19   #645
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The nozzle is just a part of the compression meter. Its a metal piece with different adaptors according to the spark plug size.

Here is a picture Name:  compressiontester.jpg
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Primary plug is the fatty one and secondary plug is the skinny one on our C5

My RE workshop has one although they had never used it until I set my eyes on it and told them how to use it.

Not very expensive either.

Some halogen bulbs do have a tendency to through a but higher beam. Its all part of not so good quality check.


OK, I'll try to explain the process again. Now you see the nozzle in the picture(at the end of the tube), you unscrew the fat plug on LH side of the head. You screw that brass nozzle in the place of the spark plug. You then take the lead off the skinny plug on the RH side. Then you squeeze the throttle to its full rotation and hold it there. Now you try to start the engine with the electric start and you will see the comp needle rising high but it will stop at one point. Do not crank it for more then 5 seconds in one go. Now press the small needle just under the comp meter, it will reset the compression reading to zero. Repeat the first step two more times and take the average reading.

Last edited by Randhawa : 16th September 2010 at 20:28.
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