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Old 5th October 2010, 17:29   #676
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Originally Posted by Randhawa View Post
Oh dear, you should have told us earlier about the knee deep water with an upswept on and I would have suggested otherwise. In this case I think the filter got choked and you got some water in the exhaust.

If the bike is running fine then don't bother with the plugs.

The air filter on our C5 is a tad bit smaller then the older models and we can not use them. Only place to get a new one is a RE dealer or RE workshop.
Thanks a lot Randhwa.
Hope we will meet one day.

Last edited by bblost : 7th October 2010 at 14:42. Reason: Please refer forum rules, especially rule #11. Thanks.
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Old 5th October 2010, 17:50   #677
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Just checked with RE spares for air filter and they don't have it in stock. In fact they don't have anything in stock. It sucks big time. The bike is launched almost a year ago and they still don't have spares.

Now tell me, can I continue with the current filter, is there any harm? Upto what extent the water can damage the air filter?

Last edited by virtualhemant : 5th October 2010 at 17:55. Reason: spell check
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Old 5th October 2010, 20:31   #678
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Air filter and plugs are always in short supply and you should buy a pair for days like these. Its like RE has rationed the parts to dealers and they are always hungry for more.

Yes you can continue with the present filter until you get a new one hopefully in few days. If its dried and dusted/blown air thorough it properly then no real harm. Although I think water can damage it around 40% and pores get a bit clogged due to hardening of the filter material.

Why don't you ask your local RE engineer to source you the filter from one off other RE stores in Pune.

Last edited by bblost : 7th October 2010 at 14:43. Reason: Please refer forum rules, especially rule #11. Thanks.
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Old 6th October 2010, 12:31   #679
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LAST WEEK i had a very similar rain experience here in Bangalore.

It was pouring like a cloud burst. I had to cover about 30 kms in the rain. The roads looked like rivers. I enjoy riding in the rain, and thought to test the C5 for water resistance. Was wearing a rain suit and full faced cross helmet which inspired confidence. zoom i went tearing the water apart like Moses. Within 2-3 mins, i was wet to the bones. (so much for the rain suit).

Continues riding hard in the rain, and splashing water on others. ( received a few expletives from a passing rider, felt sorry later for my stupidity).
At times, i hit the clogged water on the road with so much speed, it felt like hitting hard on the brakes. That was a new experience. It was exactly similar to a roller costar ride, where the car crosses a small water body, hitting it at great speed. BIG SPLASH! Almost lost control on a few occasions.

Managed to reach home in one wet piece, and wiped the bike. There was water everywhere. The airfilter box was fully wet (i had scotch tape on the hinges). The filter element was fully wet, and there were wet muddy residues in the box.

The ECU box was fully wet, and so were all the electronic components/ wires/ relays/ etc. Thanked my stars that nothing got shorted. Wiped clean and left both the sides open over night to air dry.

The indicator switch got water clogged and the springs refused to work. The disk brake started squeaking again. There ignition switch too received some water, and now feels as rough as a coarse sandpaper. One of the tiger-eye lamps conked off. Otherwise, the bike was doing fine. The Michelin rear tyre held the road firmly.

Guess i should have removed and cleaned the filter. will do it now.

Last edited by nasirkaka : 6th October 2010 at 12:39.
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Old 6th October 2010, 13:03   #680
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Going thru the above feedback, I suppose I would have to keep my trusty 7 year old CDI 350 for the rains

Last edited by bradhey : 6th October 2010 at 13:04.
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Old 6th October 2010, 13:03   #681
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@Randhwa

As per you suggestion I opened the the bolt from where we fill the oil. At the bottom of it there was some milky substance mixed with oil. Like a milk and oil mix. What does this mean? I have checked oil level, it's not increased.

I am planning to change oil myself. How should I drain the oil? Shall I start the engine and run it for two minutes and then drain the oil or just drain it while it's cold?

@Nasirkaka

So its seems you enjoyed it. And I am just unnecessary worrying.
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Old 6th October 2010, 13:46   #682
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Quote:
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@Adityaj-Please check the spark plugs and get your clutch adjusted. Do check your fuel pipe from the fuel pump. IN the morning turn the ignition switch to on but dont start the engine. Check for any leaks at the joint where the fuel pipe is attached under the fuel pump. As KA18 said, do check your chain as well. There should be not too much slack and the chain should be well lubricated.

Use your spare key to open the fuel lid and drive your bike around and see if it makes any difference. Do this when you have done and checked as above.

Then let us know

@Ka18- Hey come on, you are most welcome to give your input and share with us all.
Yes the visor can be removed. You have to take the dome out then remove the reflector by undoing the clips and take the visor off.
Thanks a lot for your inputs Randhawa and Ka18. You guys are spot on The issue was due to chain loosening (?)
Did the spark plug cleaning, and got the ignition checked as well. But once the chain was properly adjusted, it started performing like a bull again.
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Old 6th October 2010, 14:19   #683
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@Nasir- A little while ago I went to ride in some heavy rain too but the filter was dry and not a single electrical problem apart from a very light squealing of front break.

Our electrical department in the rear box is quite water safe(not the box itself). Specially the ecu connector is all weather proof so least of our worries.

@Hemant- If we were in cold climate then the whitish deposit on the oil would have meant simply the oil condensation due to less then 10km ride before the engine even came to operating temperature.

But in our case it can mean only water contamination and you should change oil along with the oil filter as well. Changing oil filter can be a tricky one if the oil cap is the old design one.

Before you go on changing oil, can you just clean the oil filler cap and recheck it again after you warm up the engine. Or post a picture of the oil on the filler cap. The best bet would be to drain a tiny amount of oil to check for any contamination.

Always drain the oil when engine is a bit warm.
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Old 6th October 2010, 16:28   #684
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Originally Posted by Randhawa View Post
But in our case it can mean only water contamination and you should change oil along with the oil filter as well. Changing oil filter can be a tricky one if the oil cap is the old design one.
What design change has been done to oil filter? Is it really difficult? There are only three nuts to remove the plate and oil filter on my bike.

My only concern is if I change my oil now then should I change it again after 2K kilometers during next service or run it till 5K. (I am not kanjuse)
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Old 6th October 2010, 16:57   #685
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Name:  Untitled.jpg
Views: 1627
Size:  12.0 KB Name:  oil cap assembly.JPG
Views: 1562
Size:  11.8 KB


We have the oil cap just like the first picture which includes part from 13-19. In the new oil cap, all the parts are fixed as one single unit. Its not hard just a bit tedious to put on as the part no 18 & 19 are a bit fiddly to keep in place and if they are not fixed properly on to the filter then there is a chance of contaminated oil seeping into the filter rather then through it.

Personally I prefer changing oil at every service because it gets dirty quite fast and I do not want the oil rings to wear out fast causing a bit of issues later on.


What is the manufacturing date on your bike? I think you might have the new one!

Last edited by Randhawa : 6th October 2010 at 17:03.
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Old 6th October 2010, 17:01   #686
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Attachment 435107 Attachment 435108



We have the oil cap just like the first picture which includes part from 13-19. In the new oil cap, all the parts are fixed as one single unit. Its not hard just a bit tedious to put on as the part no 18 & 19 are a bit fiddly to keep in place and if they are not fixed properly on to the filter then there is a chance of contaminated oil seeping into the filter rather then through it.

Personally I prefer changing oil at every service because it gets dirty quite fast and I do not want the oil rings to wear out fast causing a bit of issues later on.
You are UCE God. Thanks for sharing the info.
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Old 6th October 2010, 19:45   #687
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@KA18- There is no way of water making its way to the engine oil and if it has then you should ASAP change your engine oil. Water into the engine oil has adverse effect to the extent of killing the crank bearings in long run.

The one you saw in the picture is indeed the O-ring which we all have on our UCE engine and not a washel. Thats good enough for our bikes so don't worry about it at all.
Sorry for the late reply, I could get my bike serviced only 2 days back as the service centre was in Mysore (180 kms away) and the bike was due for the second service.

The mechanic drained the oil and could not find any trace of water in it. He says the oil is in good condition and there is no way that water could enter the case.

He confirms there is no other washer except the O-ring one.

He says the white substance formed is due to the evaporation of oil. Don't know if he is right.

I had to agree with him when he said that there would be difference in performance of the bike if water enters the engine.

Edit, even Virtualhemant is facing the same problem:

Quote:
Originally Posted by virtualhemant View Post
@Randhwa
As per you suggestion I opened the the bolt from where we fill the oil. At the bottom of it there was some milky substance mixed with oil. Like a milk and oil mix. What does this mean? I have checked oil level, it's not increased.
This is the picture of the oil fill plug:

The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!-18082010002.jpg

Sorry for the bad picture quality, that's the best with a mobile phone camera. Will try to post higher resolution ones..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Randhawa View Post
@Hemant- If we were in cold climate then the whitish deposit on the oil would have meant simply the oil condensation due to less then 10km ride before the engine even came to operating temperature.
I hope you are right Randhawa, because our place has cold climate and the running is always less than 10km on a regular basis.

And I have observed that the problem is not there after a particularly long ride.

Last edited by KA18 : 6th October 2010 at 20:02.
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Old 6th October 2010, 20:11   #688
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When I say cold, I mean under 5˚C. Idle way to check water in oil is to see the colour of Oil. Very tiny quantity of water can mix in and you would not see water separately but coffee like oil is a sure sign.

The frosty whitish should not be on a warm ridden engine for sure.
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Old 6th October 2010, 20:17   #689
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Sanjeet, Was it you or someone else who had an issue with the fuel tank where there was a minor leak from the joint at the fuel supply beneath the tank?

I am facing the same. The screw has been tightened using an allen key, however it still persists to some extent. Not that there is a a drip but there certainly is some amount of fuel seeping out.
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Old 6th October 2010, 20:23   #690
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I had a leak on the welding joints of the tank but not the same place as yours as I have a fuel pump in that place.

Yeah I do remember someone posting a picture but that was a long way back.
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