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Old 25th October 2010, 15:57   #781
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NGK Iridium No. BPR5EIX

Cost: Rs 600/- Sandhya spares - Bangalore
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Old 25th October 2010, 16:06   #782
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If someone is going to Sandhya spares or the RE service center in Bangalore any time in the near future, could you ask if they have stock of the left-stay as a replacement for the saree-guard for the green C500? That is, I want to remove the saree guard on my bike, but don't have the non-saree-guard stay.
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Old 25th October 2010, 19:28   #783
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If someone is going to Sandhya spares or the RE service center in Bangalore any time in the near future, could you ask if they have stock of the left-stay as a replacement for the saree-guard for the green C500? That is, I want to remove the saree guard on my bike, but don't have the non-saree-guard stay.
I did check but they did not have stock for the GREEN. They had for the MAROON.

Sandhya spared Phone number:

080 22270203 - Kiran
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Old 25th October 2010, 20:43   #784
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Originally Posted by Randhawa View Post
@Nasir- Found out the price for M45, PlanetDSG is selling it for Rs 1950.

Sharing info on not so common electrical problem on C5

Today someone asked me a question about a electrical problem so I thought of sharing with you all which I had previously experienced.

I had my first electrical problem few months back which turned out to be the loose ignition switch connector. The thimbles are of flimsy quality and tend to flex inside the connector thus creating a loose connection. Also the ignition switch assembly points gets dirty or wet and causes the connection to break. Any increase in electrical load tends to break the poor connection inside the ignition switch.

Symptoms

Applying front brake will restart the priming sequence- MIL light comes on and goes away(before starting with ignition switch to on)

Turning headlight on or high beam causes the engine and all the electrical's to die. Bike would stutter(MIL light comes and goes) and carry on or completely switch off.

Turning the ignition key will bring back all the electrical's to life and you carry on.

Turning the handle to left or right causes the on/off situation

Sudden acceleration causes the engine to shut off with all the electrical's off

Remedy-Precautionary measures

Check the ignition switch connector for loose wires either pull the wires and see if they come out of the connector. Check for any carbon deposit or any bluish white deposit on the thimbles if you see any - Then clean the contacts and connect the connectors.

With the ignition switch we cant do much as its a sealed assembly.
Avoid any water spray over the switch specially when the bike is getting serviced or being washed with a pressure jet. You could just use a inch of tape to mask the ignition switch.

Sometimes the ignition switch becomes a bit stiff when you turn the key to on position. Do not spray WD40 into the key hole rather use a drop of wd40 into the hole.

Push the key hole shutter a bit and blow compressed air into it.


If problem persist then get a new key/lock set. That all to it.
@Randhwa

I had face similar problem today. On signal I switch off my bike and when I turned the switch to on, nothing happened. I tried on/off quite few times but no help. My wife immediatly said "We never had any breakdown on our pulsar" I was like

I checked all the fuses and they were fine. Later put my hand under the ignition switch and voila, Lights on. I started my journey towards home and suddenly ignition went off. MIL started glowing again. Man that was really scary. I crossed my fingers and came back home. Imagine happening this while you are overtaking a truck on highway. Really flimsy parts.

What should I do now? clean it? do I have to take the switch off?
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Old 26th October 2010, 00:35   #785
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@Nasir- Well done mate, glad my tip worked out as planned Please confirm if the K&N filter is E-0900 or E-00900. Will help others if they want to take this route.

@Cooded-All the bullets have tappets, older ones have manual adjusted tappets and all the new UCE engined bullets have hydraulic tappets. The hiss you are experiencing is probably from the joint between the exhaust and down pipe or at the exhaust pipe where it joins in the head.

Keep your hand under the joint between the exhaust & down pipe while its idling and if you feel the air then get it tightened and all should be well but if you are running the upswept exhaust then you will have to put a metal strip to stop the exhaust leak.

In near future you will have to go to your RE workshop like it or not. Simply because you have a lot which can go wrong under warranty and secondly you will not be able to get UCE parts anywhere else except from RE workshop and mechanics around are not competent enough to even work on UCE engine. So stick with RE workshop but if you have couple of RE dealers in your city then find the one which has better stock of parts with highly trained mechanics.

@Hemant- First of all, I'll suggest to take out the ignition switch. Inspect the connector thimbels by un-pluging it. They should not be loose, coming out of its place or have the blue/white deposit on it. If you do find then clean it up. Now try switching the ignition of and on repeatedly with the high beam on. If its still working then you are done

If not then very carefully remove the rubber seal under the ignition switch but if you feel uncomfortable then stop there as you might not be able to put it back. Its a bit tricky to do so. If you can then after you have pulled the rubber seal then inspect if all the wires are connected under the switch.

Next is to blow pressurized air into the ignition switch and a drop of oil. These three steps should help you take care of this problem for good.

Hope it helps.


Mini update on my new problems at 16.5k on odo.


With the battery conking out on me I thought it should not be a problem as I am covered under the warranty. How wrong I was. Went to the Exide office to get a replacement and after checking the battery , they confirmed it was kaput. But politely told me I can not have a replacement after confirming my mileage. Now I have to shell out 2k for a new battery.

Note- Exide warranty is either 10,000km or one Year which ever comes first.



My last week has been full of surprises.

I have a cracked steady bracket which holds the engine head against the tank rear mounting. Its making the ride a bit bothersome due to the heavy resonating. Cant believe this little piece has so much importance. Its not a every day consumable item so not in stock got to wait for few weeks to get it.
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Ignition key is coming off with ignition switch still on. For the non classic bulls, its a Rs500 job to get the complete lock set change and its readily available. But for our C5 its going to be a bit expensive due to the fuel cap and again wait of few weeks. I have yet to investigate if its the worn out key or the ignition switch itself to blame but definitely a quality issue.


Broken rear sprocket teeth

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Two days ago I felt some noise coming out of the bike as if something has come loose in the engine. Gave me shivers as this repeated couple of times.

In the morning checked everything and couldn't find out what it was then my eyes went on to the rear sprocket as I do a frequent chain inspections. Found out around 10 teeth in total of 38 teeh had broken off from the rear sprocket. It was palpitations at its best.

I could hardly sleep on sunday as I was too worried for Anastassia. Went to the RE workshop and got the whole set replaced(rear/front sprocket-chain-brake shoe). I was lucky to have everything in stock. When the C5 was launched, every dealer got a set of spares for C5. Among the items sent in that lot was the only chain set. Most of the parts from the first lot of spares, I have been needy enough to get most of them for my bull. Now the emergency stock has dwindled and I feel sorry for whomsoever will come to get their C5 sorted out but will have to wait few weeks for the parts.

Although I wasn't happy to witness the baby teeth falling of the sprocket like tears. Asked around and got to know that it is normal for a bull to do that. Well thats not acceptable to me and some brain storming to understand the reason behind it.

First of all its the design of the rear sprocket assembly. Its not the best material to start with. Its cast iron assembly and sprocket is not heat treated due to being a part of the rear hub. Most of the new age bikes have a separate sprocket either riveted or bolted to the rear hub. They have just picked up the part from RE bin and added on to the C5. Highly unacceptable I will say. RE must look into it and improve as its a part of the maintenance free package which RE projects about C5.

They can simply have a separate heat treated sprocket bolted on to the rear hub or perhaps made of some better material to withstand the heavy chain when its too loose or too tight, which are one of the causes to shear of the teeth off the rear sprocket.

Tips to avoid such a scary moment.
Keep your chain well lubricated.
Keep the chain well adjusted, neither too tight or loose.
Do get the chain off every 5-6k and clean it with diesel/ kerosene, use good quality chain lube and not oil.


Hub bearing was shot and workshop had only Tata bearing. OEM is a NBC so I wanted either NBC or SKF. Got the SKF bearing for Rs 150 and its number is 6005. Its a double sealed bearing.

T stem cone bearing set gone wild

I was getting a thud kind of noise when going over pot holes. Mechanic thought it was either pad or the forks. I had replaced the front brake pads at 15k and also had changed the fork oil so that was out of the way. It even replaced the cone set at 10k but that was the only thing which needed inspection as they are prone to wear out due to water contamination.

The moment I saw the color of the bearings, I knew it was water again the culprit. It has rusted badly and the bearings had made indentations on the cones hence generated up/down play resulting in forward/backward movement of the stem while hard braking and on rough roads.

Reason
behind is simple, poor design of the dust covers on the cone and un sufficient sealing to protect water mixing with the grease and killing the cone set.

Precaution
Just avoid spraying water directly while washing at the T or near the front part of the fuel tank so that area keeps dry. If you can then get it greased at every 5-8k.

In total my expenditure in one week came to

Battery for 2k which I will get it tomorrow.
Rear sprocket+brake shoe+bearing+chain+front sprocket= Rs 2200.
Insurance Rs 2600, got it done in advance as my insurance runs out in November.
Front steering T stem cone bearing set replaced Rs 500


In all expensive week at 7.3k.

Last edited by Randhawa : 26th October 2010 at 00:42.
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Old 26th October 2010, 12:03   #786
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randhawa View Post

@Hemant- First of all, I'll suggest to take out the ignition switch. Inspect the connector thimbels by un-pluging it. They should not be loose, coming out of its place or have the blue/white deposit on it. If you do find then clean it up. Now try switching the ignition of and on repeatedly with the high beam on. If its still working then you are done

If not then very carefully remove the rubber seal under the ignition switch but if you feel uncomfortable then stop there as you might not be able to put it back. Its a bit tricky to do so. If you can then after you have pulled the rubber seal then inspect if all the wires are connected under the switch.

Next is to blow pressurized air into the ignition switch and a drop of oil. These three steps should help you take care of this problem for good.

Hope it helps.
I have noticed when I start my bike and press front break, the bike dies.
Today "according to law of attraction", I was overtaking a mini bus and bike died, fortunately it started again with MIL on/off. Got really scared. Wife asked me to go home and take the car. I somehow convinced her to carry on. I had to listen everything that a man can listen for the love of his bike. But I was really embarrassed.

I called the RE service manager and told him what happened. He said that go to a service center and get everything cleaned. If needed he will get a "Common Key Set" and replace all locks. But I'm sure with this quality I will run into these issues again. Believe me I take care of my bike like anything, so imagine using this bike for hard core riding. Can't imagine.

@Randhwa, I feel really sorry that you are facing these issues. 7K in a week a quite a high mount, left apart the insurance still 5k in a week is huge amount. I am really pissed of the quality of this product. I paid 1.5 lakhs because I thought paying 35K extra will get a good quality product from RE. But alas, they sold just a color job and FI for 35K keeping everything else same.

I am still repenting, I should have gone for MACH500. Atleast there are plenty of mechs that can work on it.

80/20 for MECH 500 - 80% of technology will cost you 20% of problems.
80/20 rule for C5 - 20% of latest technology will cost you 80% problems
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Old 26th October 2010, 14:12   #787
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[quote=Randhawa;2118176

Rear sprocket+brake shoe+bearing+chain+front sprocket= Rs 2200.

quote]

I got a new original chainset for my Thunderbird for Rs. 1200 a week ago. Is there a Rs.1000 difference between the chainsets of C5 and Thunderbird?
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Old 26th October 2010, 14:28   #788
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@Hemant- it is your ignition switch for sure. Just below some pressurized air from the top with a drop of wd40 and you will be good to go. Thats a simple step you can take for now if you dont want to dig deep.

@Ricky- you are missing out the other parts in the Rs2200 cost brake down.

Cost is the same but I also got the bearing(Rs150)+brake shoe(Rs250)+ labour(Rs200)+VAT(Rs200)
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Old 26th October 2010, 15:29   #789
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randhawa View Post
@Hemant- it is your ignition switch for sure. Just below some pressurized air from the top with a drop of wd40 and you will be good to go. Thats a simple step you can take for now if you dont want to dig deep.

@Ricky- you are missing out the other parts in the Rs2200 cost brake down.

Cost is the same but I also got the bearing(Rs150)+brake shoe(Rs250)+ labour(Rs200)+VAT(Rs200)
Can I use kerosene instead of wd40?
It happens only first time when I start my bike and press front break while the bike still on stand. (haven't check with rear break). Later it works as normal.
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Old 26th October 2010, 17:47   #790
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Going through these details makes me scary of the long term perspective of keeping this bike in my garage. My 7 year old Electra 350 CI just needs regular maintainance parts and oil change and is as reliable as any you may come across. The only way I see out of this situation is getting all owners on a single platform and arm twisting Royal on the instability and other such hazardous issues, which this bike has.

I still recall the words of my late friend and a Royal Enfield dealer himself, who warned me to wait at least one year before buying this new product, and I quote his reason was "because this an offering from the Royal Enfield". How much I wish I had gone for the "time tested" Mac 500 at that time.
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Old 26th October 2010, 18:09   #791
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Originally Posted by Randhawa View Post
@Axe77- Only two days ago the new ones came in Chandigarh and not all of them had the filter cover but the rest of the upgrades were on all of them. I don't think you would have got the new version two weeks ago.
Can you please share the list of the updates that are in the new version?
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Old 26th October 2010, 23:28   #792
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Default Classic 500; authorised service in Mumbai

Can anyone using a Classic 500 recommend a good RE authorised mechanic in Mumbai?

I've heard fairly negative things about the Mahim service station from too many people (although having spoken to the main chap there he seemed to be a nice guy).

My bike is already due for first service and given all the tech associated with the C.500 I'd like to go to the most reliable outfit. Although its a free service I am willing to pay if required and means I'm going to someone reliable.

Thanks
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Old 27th October 2010, 14:34   #793
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Axe77 all service centres are alike. When it comes to free services they will turn a blind eye to the most basic checks (recommended on the back of your service coupon). Hence you would have urge them to check everything as per specifications of the company....................who are by no means better
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Old 27th October 2010, 19:25   #794
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I still recall the words of my late friend and a Royal Enfield dealer himself, who warned me to wait at least one year before buying this new product, and I quote his reason was "because this an offering from the Royal Enfield". How much I wish I had gone for the "time tested" Mac 500 at that time.
Huh, what time-tested? RE turns blind eye when it comes to quality.

The Electra has been around for quite some time.
But still most of the quality issues reported here on the latest Classics are there on my Electra which I brought three months back.

The Ignition key switch for example, it suddenly dies out for no reason.
It can be downright dangerous when you are overtaking or on the highway.
During the last service, the SE removed the entire unit, cleaned it with petrol and lubricated it and then fitted it back. I had no issues for a week or so and then, now again I am facing the same problem. There seems to be no permanent solution, unless RE comes up with a better product.

Other things like paint quality, rust and inconsistent build are present on all RE bikes.
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Old 28th October 2010, 12:00   #795
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@KA18.
Even i'm facing the same problem in my tbts. but here is the catch. whenever bike in neutral, i start the bike and put the headlight on there it goes. it dies. and when i switch off the ignition key switch it on with headlight on the neutral light doesnt come on. then switch off the head lamp its comes on. everytime i go with this problem the problem vanshies in front of them and again comes back when im riding. dont know.

Guru's can u throw some suggestion which i can look into.
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