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Old 2nd November 2010, 22:54   #826
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@stnair-I have no clue to whats going on with RE. Went again to check the new stock and now they have all the upgrades, even the filter cover was there but still on RE website it says 18 all around.

@nasir- Even if you do 100 non-stop for whole day, nothing would happen and I bet on that. If anything happens to any part then I'll pay for every damaged part. Now how does that sounds to you

Excellent job on your goldie.

Now what was the symptom which made your mechanic to conclude you have loose forks?

To check for loose forks, you will have to take off the wheel, mudguard, fork sleeves. Or what you can do your self is take the wheel off and the mudguard. Pull the forks down and compare the drop or base of booth the forks. If they match then you are fine. Also check the bolts on the T where the indicators are attached.

I had a problem with front suspension which made me think it was forks and got the front suspension removed and inspected. Bit it wasn't to blame. At the end it was T cone set gone kaput.

To see if your cone set is damaged then observe few things and let me know.

While on centre stand move the handle left to right, see if there is any resistance on either side.
With the centre stand off, turn the handle left to right. See if its squeaks.
Speed up to 70-80 and do hard front braking. Observe if there is any shudder or thud-thud sound coming from front.


@Adityaj- Your bull looking good there

Did you changed the front stays?

I dont think you can get much bassier thump with whatever exhaust you try. But do try the Punjab silencer, darn this thing is loud and too sweet thump at idle.

I suspect if we play around with the down pipe then probably we will get somewhere to get the heavy thump. Reason I say is that if you compare the older CI350 down pipe to C5, you will observe that exhaust gasses on C5 travel in a narrower pipe compared to older bulls. In the C5 down pipe, it has multiple layers. One on the outer side is not the actual one, there is another one inside it approx 3-4mm apart.

I say worth thinking about it.
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Old 2nd November 2010, 23:13   #827
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Originally Posted by nasirkaka View Post
Got goldie made - glass wool type. installed on the bike, and it sounds just about what i wanted. Its not too loud, but louder than upswept. The thump is not hollow (like beating an empty can) but much bassier now.
Alongside the price, please share some pics and an audio clip of the thump.
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Old 3rd November 2010, 00:53   #828
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Originally Posted by Randhawa View Post
With the centre stand off, turn the handle left to right. See if its squeaks.
One small point to note here. Also check if the squeaks are with the cable set rubbing against top of the shock-absorbers right under the headlamp unit. In that case this sound can be misleading. I have that squeaking sound due to the cable rubbing.


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Originally Posted by Randhawa View Post
@Adityaj- Your bull looking good there
Thanks for the compliment.

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Originally Posted by Randhawa View Post
Did you changed the front stays?
No the whole bike is running on stock except for tyres, exhaust, headlight and the rear mat.

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Originally Posted by Randhawa View Post
I dont think you can get much bassier thump with whatever exhaust you try. But do try the Punjab silencer, darn this thing is loud and too sweet thump at idle.

I suspect if we play around with the down pipe then probably we will get somewhere to get the heavy thump. Reason I say is that if you compare the older CI350 down pipe to C5, you will observe that exhaust gasses on C5 travel in a narrower pipe compared to older bulls. In the C5 down pipe, it has multiple layers. One on the outer side is not the actual one, there is another one inside it approx 3-4mm apart.

I say worth thinking about it.
Is the punjab one louder in terms of volume of sound too? I am worried about just that. Anyway will try to check that out here on a bike-in-use to understand how it sounds. Thanks for the suggestion.
Also looks like its not that easy to source the actual Punjab one here in Bangalore. May be some old-time-mechanics might have some stock. Will check that.
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Old 3rd November 2010, 12:24   #829
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Originally Posted by adityaj View Post

No the whole bike is running on stock except for tyres, exhaust, headlight and the rear mat.
Hey,

Can you please share the tyre sizes on your bike? The front is looking better with that tyre, the stock looks puny. This might be because tyre profile.
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Old 3rd November 2010, 14:42   #830
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Hi,

Any tips on getting a set of good horns for classic in bangalore?
- What all should i care about w.r.t the wiring?
- any particular brands which are recommended?
- the power range which is acceptable?
- relay required?
- any shops in bangalore which does a good job? (without ripping one off the money )
Thank you in advance.
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Old 3rd November 2010, 15:50   #831
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@nasir- Even if you do 100 non-stop for whole day, nothing would happen and I bet on that. If anything happens to any part then I'll pay for every damaged part. Now how does that sounds to you
Ha ha!! thanks. Thats really sweet.

Also, as per your suggestion, i used a thin sheet metal from a can (amul badaam milk can to be precise), in between the bent pipe and the exhaust and the after-fire seems to have reduced. (thats just an assumption from a short 2km ride). Will share feedback after clocking some more miles.

The goldie with the glass wool is sounding really nice. I am very happy with the outcome. Will comeback from the trip and chrome-plate it. The pickup also seems to have improved a bit. (or is it my imagination?) Anyhow, the thump is so sweet, thats its forcing me to ride around 50-60 kmph.

Quote:
@nasirkaka

Hey thats good, saw your post in the goldstar silencers thread. I am thinking of installing the goldie on my thunderbird. I think the bend pipe does not need to be changed for goldie.

What is the price of the silencer?
What modifications did you do for tuning?
I asked my mechanic if it will affect exhaust valves he denied it. Can you throw some light on this
Also, tell me some place where i can get it in vadodara, would be a great help.
Hey, my goldie is not off the shelf. i had got it from pune for my machismo. It was a different construction than. Now i modified it in to glass wool type, and also modified the mounting points to suit C5.

For this modification i had to pay 1400 rs. (chrome plating would have to be paid separately).

There are goldies available for thunderbird at sandhya apares in bangalore, for 1800/ and 2000 rs. (short / long)
No idea about where to get one is vadodra. :(


Quote:
Hi,

Any tips on getting a set of good horns for classic in bangalore?
- What all should i care about w.r.t the wiring?
- any particular brands which are recommended?
- the power range which is acceptable?
- relay required?
- any shops in bangalore which does a good job? (without ripping one off the money )
Thank you in advance.

I am using Hella (a single horm from the set of two, the high frequency one), and am very satisfied with the sound. Its just about right for what i wanted. Not too loud to draw unwanted attention, but loud enough to warn vehicles of your presence.
Intially, i was using a 4 pin mechanical relay, with a fuse, but after the wiring issue, the horn is directly connected to the bike, as in stock.

You could try bosch or Roots as well, they have good name in the market. If you plan to use twin horn, better to go for a sealed electronic relay and take positive directly from the battery.
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Old 3rd November 2010, 16:25   #832
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@Coded- I think the post February C5 came with chrome plated engine side covers as to pre C5 which can easily be buffed ourself.

If your is a chrome one then sadly you can only get it re-chromed and not much else. Buffing will make it worse.

If yours is a buffed one then you can get a 3M Finnet rubbing cream to polish scratch or dull part on the cover to make it as good as new. Once your are done with rubbing then just apply nickel powder and rub all over the cover and wipe it.

Even if you have the chrome plated cover then still try with the 3M rubbing cream, it might do the trick.

@Adityaj-Punjab silencer is loud and gives you the crackling loud noise when revved. At slow speeds it will give you the thump you fancy.

@Nasir- I hope your assumption becomes reality and sacrifice of the amul badam milk can proves it's worth. Looking at the picture, you have done just the way I wanted so it should work.

Try the same on the upswept as it will have better results. You have spent more then 5K just on the filter+exhaust so you deserve to get a satisfying thump and performance.

Try this
Now leaving your paranoia about damaging any internals once you get going on your trip, try cruising for 30minutes and take a 30minutes stop.

Once the rider and C5 has taken its nap, do 90-110 for few minutes and squeeze the beans out of it. Afterwards let me know the size of your grin

Now this you might want to do in the name of R&D. If you cruise above 120 for a while non-stop then there is a probability of you finding a heat spot on your goldie. Chrome at the heat spot will change its colour. Once you get that spot, you can adjust the glass wool filling accordingly as to avoid that in future once you get it chromed.

Last edited by Randhawa : 3rd November 2010 at 16:30.
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Old 3rd November 2010, 17:18   #833
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nasirkaka View Post

Hey, my goldie is not off the shelf. i had got it from pune for my machismo. It was a different construction than. Now i modified it in to glass wool type, and also modified the mounting points to suit C5.

For this modification i had to pay 1400 rs. (chrome plating would have to be paid separately).

There are goldies available for thunderbird at sandhya apares in bangalore, for 1800/ and 2000 rs. (short / long)
No idea about where to get one is vadodra. :(
The goldies that you are talking about, are those glass wool type?
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Old 3rd November 2010, 18:12   #834
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@ Randhawa: Sure, would try that.
Hey, i just relaised that most of the C5 users end up spending lots of extra money on the C5. And most of the bikes are still under warranty. What would happen after that? i feel RE could have charged a bit more for the bike and in return, given us better parts. For eg, Avon tyres instead of MRF. Maybe that would have made economic sense in the longer run.

@ Ricky:

Yes, they are glass-wool type. NON glass-wool type would be available for about 800Rs, and they are real loud.

Guys, Just a word of caution: Use a pair of kitchen gloves while handling the Glass-wool, as they are very fine, sharp and highly irritating to the skin. Am saying this from experience, as my hands are still burning as i type.
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Old 4th November 2010, 02:12   #835
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When I got my first service done, the mechanics tightened up the chain but did not aligned the rear axle adjusting spline. on one side it was 12 notches and other side it was 13. So my bike was pulling on one side and giving me scary moments above 100. I got that sorted and handling improved drastically. Then I tried reducing the rear tyre pressure to 27Psi as normally I ride solo with single seat. That removed the twitchiness to 90%. Rest 10% needs to be worked upon by RE on the swing-arm.
@Randhawa. I am going to need a lot of your help.Apparently the best mechanic that we have in my city is not so good after all.My bike pulls on the right side too...when i remove my hands off the handle bar while riding.I thought it was because of misalignment of wheel.I am a newbie on the mechanical stuff so can you please put up pics of the rear axle adjusting spline mark the changes that are to be seen/done? I realize that i am asking a bit too much from you but I am having sleepless nights because of these issues.Thanks in advance.
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Old 4th November 2010, 10:45   #836
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@Randhawa.Sorry i forgot to mention these points in my post above. I will try out the 3M paint.The hissing sound with every thump is due to the stock silencer i have.Its too long and the thump dies out with a hissing note by the time it comes out of the exhaust. The squeaking sound coming out of the gearbox was because of the chain or clutch plates rubbing against something(???).Also, the noise that you had on your engine, the knocking noise, I think i can hear it on my engine too, especially when i accelerate.I have completed the first 500 kms of servicing, the next time i get her serviced i will make sure i put the 300v oil.I will try to put up an audio file with the engine noise at the earliest.Thanks a lot for your opinions and suggestions.Maybe all the CL500/350 owners should ride to some location with their bulls and get things sorted out.Something like a camp in the center(lat,long) of our beloved country.
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Old 4th November 2010, 17:57   #837
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Hey,

Can you please share the tyre sizes on your bike? The front is looking better with that tyre, the stock looks puny. This might be because tyre profile.
Both front and rear are Michellin M45
Front is 3.25 18 and
Rear: 4.00 18
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Old 4th November 2010, 22:37   #838
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@Nasir- If you really want to know what will happen when the warranty runs out then here is approx break down of what it can cost you to keep it going.


Booth the cams including cam sleeves Rs 2000
Barrel Rs 2200
Piston assembly Rs750
Cylinder head assembly Rs 7000
Crank with con rod Rs 9000- most exp part of all and rod not available separately
RH side Crank needle roller bearing Rs 650
LH side Crank ball bearing x2 Rs 250 each
Head gasket Rs 500
Valves Rs 500(not sure if its for single or a set)
Fuel injector Rs 1300
Fuel Pump Rs 8000
ECU Rs 6200
Wiring loom Rs 4300
Trafficator (indicator) Rs 250 each
Handle Rs350
LH/RH(electrical box&air filter box) Rs 1100 each
Fuel level sensor Rs 180
Lock set Rs 750
Ball race kit/T Handle cone set Rs 400
Cushion rubber(rear hub) Rs 80
Clutch cable Rs 85
Accelerator cable set Rs 200
Brake shoe rear Rs 250
Front brake pads Rs 350
Air filter Rs 100
Oil filter Rs 85
Spark plug primary Rs 110
Secondary plug Rs 90
Front Mudguard Rs 1100
OEM supplied Exide battery Rs 3100 (6 month warranty)
Exide biker battery Rs 2000 with exchange
Rear MRF 110/90/18 tyre Rs 2050 tyre / tube Rs 400
Sprag clutch Rs 3500 older & Rs 3050 for upgrade one
Rocker cover gasket Rs 40
SS hose clip-fuel line Rs 40
Mudguard carrier-rear stay Rs 450
Head lamp assembly Rs 610
Disc brake lever Rs 150
RVM Rs 350
Primary Chain Rs 3000
Auto chain tensioner Rs 250
Fuel tank with stickers without pads Rs 7400
Chain set complete with sprocket Rs1800
Charges engine overhaul at RE Rs2500

Thats all I can remember so far. The best part is the price of the cylinder kit, try getting any CI 500 kit for less then 5K for our lovely C5 its all for 3k.

Crank can be repaired easily if the rod is not damaged for Rs 1500 as the crank pin bearing is readily available at any crank repair shop. It shares the same bearing from AVL cranks.

So if ever God forbid you need an engine overhaul, then it will cost you just under 12k. I think thats not bad hey.

Cylinder kit 3k
Crank repair max 1.5K
Crank bearings 1K
Cams 2K
Head gasket can be reused but lets say Rs500
Labour 2.5K
oil+filter Rs 650


@Cooded- I am not sure what exactly you mean from your first post, just count the points on the adjusting spline on the rear axle shaft. You can count it either from top or bottom and the numbers should be same booth sides.

It's not 3M paint but a 3M rubbing cream. I don't have any hissing sound from the OEM exhaust so again not sure what you mean. Is your squeaking noise issue resolved?

You are just panicking I think, please put up the audio file and record it with your phone keeping close to the engine while riding from start so I can give you my opinion. I don't think you are getting the same sound. Mine was one off.
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Old 5th November 2010, 02:29   #839
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@Cooded- I am not sure what exactly you mean from your first post, just count the points on the adjusting spline on the rear axle shaft. You can count it either from top or bottom and the numbers should be same booth sides.

It's not 3M paint but a 3M rubbing cream. I don't have any hissing sound from the OEM exhaust so again not sure what you mean. Is your squeaking noise issue resolved?

You are just panicking I think, please put up the audio file and record it with your phone keeping close to the engine while riding from start so I can give you my opinion. I don't think you are getting the same sound. Mine was one off.
@ Randhawa: Well i really dont have any idea where the adjusting spline is located and what is its function,(i am a complete newbie...i know)...so after i fix my bike right u can kill me for getting on ur nerves..Also i was wondering if we could count the rpm of the engine by recording the sound of the engine and doing some analysis on the recorded sound on your computer? It Would be easier to adjust the idling and also analyse for all sorts of sounds that come out of the engine.Anyways i am already experimenting on it.
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Old 5th November 2010, 09:57   #840
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@ Randhawa: Well i really dont have any idea where the adjusting spline is located and what is its function,(i am a complete newbie...i know)...so after i fix my bike right u can kill me for getting on ur nerves..Also i was wondering if we could count the rpm of the engine by recording the sound of the engine and doing some analysis on the recorded sound on your computer? It Would be easier to adjust the idling and also analyse for all sorts of sounds that come out of the engine.Anyways i am already experimenting on it.
If you do not have a basic idea of what you are doing or a minimum knowledge of various mechanical parts in the bike and their functions, then do not attempt to repair or modify it. The rear wheel, brake drum, sprockets etc are very crucial and if misadjusted can cause serious accidents. If the alignment is not proper, not only the tyre gets damaged, but it could also break the chain sprockets.

So go and get your bike adjusted by a nearby mechanic - it need not be RE authorised as cycle parts can be repaired by any Bullet mechanic - see and learn what he is doing, and after you have gained some knowledge, attempt it yourself. Right tools are also a must.

Sanjeet, I hope you agree with me on above.

regards
san
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