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Old 19th April 2010, 08:36   #1
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Default Electrical Failiure in Standard 350

So my bull stranded me for the first time.

Well, I rode it for more than 125 km yesterday and was very near my home my suddenly it died on a red light. tried to start it, however no response, and later realised there was not electric supply.

Things did not seem to bad as I assumed that fuse might have 'fused', checked it but everything was intact.

Got it home somehow, and this morning tried to change the fuse, however again, that is not the problem. Electricals are completely gone, its like bike is not coming in the on mode.

Any experiences ?
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Old 19th April 2010, 09:42   #2
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Originally Posted by Shashank.A View Post
So my bull stranded me for the first time.

Well, I rode it for more than 125 km yesterday and was very near my home my suddenly it died on a red light. tried to start it, however no response, and later realised there was not electric supply.

Things did not seem to bad as I assumed that fuse might have 'fused', checked it but everything was intact.

Got it home somehow, and this morning tried to change the fuse, however again, that is not the problem. Electricals are completely gone, its like bike is not coming in the on mode.

Any experiences ?
Hi
How old is your bike? common problem with bullets are dry soldering at the coils and poor connectors. It can become regular issue if you dint find the exact root cause. Check voltage at the starting coil input and check the spark plug. In rainy season or after a Thorough (??) water wash you can suspect ignition switch also. If you have Electra then check the battery.

Mohan.G

Last edited by mohang_j : 19th April 2010 at 09:44.
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Old 19th April 2010, 10:00   #3
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Its hardly 6 months only. have done 3000km only.
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Old 19th April 2010, 10:04   #4
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Its hardly 6 months only. have done 3000km only.
Its most likely the battery.
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Old 19th April 2010, 10:24   #5
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Its most likely the battery.
Battery cannot die out middle of the road. When bike has just done a run of 50 km.
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Old 19th April 2010, 10:40   #6
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Battery cannot die out middle of the road. When bike has just done a run of 50 km.
Sorry what i mean is battery and its wiring (batterry can go dead). Does the amp meter deflects when you try to kickstart? or when you switch on the ignition?
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Old 19th April 2010, 10:54   #7
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Even a new battery might go dry if the rectifier coil is defunct. If the amp meter doesnt deflect after truning on the ignition then most probably its because of battery.
Since the bike has run just 3000 kms I guess there shouldnt be a major electrical issue.
Get a 12V battery from your friends if possible and try starting with that.
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Old 19th April 2010, 11:41   #8
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No reaction on the amp meter.

@ Abhishek - Again my point, battery just cannot die in flash of second. It has to be wiring or something else. Putting another battery does not seem to be the solution here. But what is the voltage of pulsar battery ? I can try and jump my bull with it.
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Old 19th April 2010, 11:43   #9
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First thing to check after the fuse. The ignition switch beneath the key. This part conks out on REs and this usually leaves more RE owners stranded with electrical gremlins than other electricals.

Cheers,

Jay
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Old 19th April 2010, 11:58   #10
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First thing to check after the fuse. The ignition switch beneath the key. This part conks out on REs and this usually leaves more RE owners stranded with electrical gremlins than other electricals.

Cheers,

Jay
That is what I am wondering about. However my technical expertise is limited and this bike is still under warranty. :(
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Old 19th April 2010, 12:26   #11
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@Shashank: Had a similar experience just two days ago. I knew it was a short circuit of some kind, since I have been making changes to my rear mudguard and tail lamp! Also, my rear tyre rubs against the wire when I drive on big humps. So, I disconnected the rear taillight/indictor wiring and changed the blown fuse and the bike is up and running.
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Old 19th April 2010, 12:29   #12
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That is what I am wondering about. However my technical expertise is limited and this bike is still under warranty. :(
Simply take it to the dealer and let them solve it for you as electrical issues are a real pain to solve without expertise/experience. If it is a short circuit, make sure they replace the entire wiring harness. A major place where shorts occur is the chicken nest in the headlight casquette.

Cheers,

Jay
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Old 19th April 2010, 12:30   #13
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@Shashank: Had a similar experience just two days ago. I knew it was a short circuit of some kind, since I have been making changes to my rear mudguard and tail lamp! Also, my rear tyre rubs against the wire when I drive on big humps. So, I disconnected the rear taillight/indictor wiring and changed the blown fuse and the bike is up and running.
Good to hear that Ganesh.

Cheers,

Jay
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Old 19th April 2010, 12:41   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbanavar View Post
@Shashank: Had a similar experience just two days ago. I knew it was a short circuit of some kind, since I have been making changes to my rear mudguard and tail lamp! Also, my rear tyre rubs against the wire when I drive on big humps. So, I disconnected the rear taillight/indictor wiring and changed the blown fuse and the bike is up and running.
A blown fuse simplifies things.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JayPrashanth View Post
Simply take it to the dealer and let them solve it for you as electrical issues are a real pain to solve without expertise/experience. If it is a short circuit, make sure they replace the entire wiring harness. A major place where shorts occur is the chicken nest in the headlight casquette.
Challenge is now taking it to the Authorized dealership
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Old 19th April 2010, 12:45   #15
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I had a similar problem.

It started with the key. The soldering near the key came loose and it used to start somethimes and not the other times.

I changed the key, did everything, lots of experiments and pushing the bike, embarrassments, finally I slayed the ghost.

Spent 1,000 bucks and got the whole wiring done, its running like a treat now.

The key is the ammeter. When you try to kick start the bike, the ammeter should go negative and then come positive once you use the decompressor. If the ammeter is not going negative, then its the key, change the keys and you will be fine, if not, just get it soldered and it will run for many more miles.
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