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Old 22nd April 2010, 21:05   #16
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[quote=atrocious;1850445]1. So what you are saying is that the fabled metal filings in the chamber don't do any harm even if they stay there for first 500 km.This 50 km oil change; is it redundant or harmful...? I mean is it a pure waste of money or will it impact the engine badly as well...?

2. Can you name a few of your picks for the different oils you mentioned...?

If you are so particular, then just change the oil filter element before 500Km, (you could cut it open and examine it for the type of debris,Aluminium filings should be no cause for alarm, shiny brass type particles should cause concern, so also white metal, you can check if it is aluminium by putting a few drops of hydrochloric acid on the debris, all aluminium filings will react and turn black)

As regards the brand of oil, I am not sure that Team BHP would like any member to endorse a particular brand, so all I will say is use the brand used by 4 stroke Honda aircooled engines
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Old 26th May 2010, 12:27   #17
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Originally Posted by Indiaman View Post
For what it is worth THIS is how I used to tune RE Bullets for racing at Sholavaram:
1)Strip the new (or old) engine down completely,
2) Check crank alignment carefully(in the old days this used to be "off" by quite a bit due to shoddy workmanship at the factory)and polish cranks.
3) Once (2) is done, replace all the factory fitted side bearings with new ones
4) Check the floating bush on the RR56 Con rod.
5) Keep a new 9:1 domed piston handy(available in those days)
6) Assemble bottom half of engine after facing the two halves for accurate match.
7) Cylinder to be bored out to fit the new .010" or.020" oversize high compression piston to racing clearances after cross hatch finishing the bore
8) Place both cylinder and piston in boiling water for 10 minutes and check bore to piston clearance, increase to .002" by honing if needed(.002" is the piston to bore clearance HOT )
9) Attach an old con rod on piston(do not install rings)Sprinkle an equal amount of "Brasso" mixed with kerosene into the bore, put piston inside bore and get some of your friends to push piston up and down for a couple of hours, replenishing the "Brasso" kerosene mixture regularly.
10) Wipe bore and piston scrupulously clean
11) Remove piston rings from packing and gap top ring to .008" 2nd ring to .006" and the oil ring also to .006"
12) Attach piston with rings to con rod and assemble cylinder onto the lower half of engine .
This is the basic assembly procedure I used to follow for a high performance RE Bullet. The Cylinder head and camshaft, spark plugs Valves and valve springs, hot cams, etc etc are another story in themselves that I won't go into now.
Running in the engine was simple, A few bursts at FULL THROTTLE(to bed down the rings properly and thereby get the best seal)was all that was required. Valve timing had to be done accurately with a degree wheel, as piston to valve clearances were very little, and any over revving would inevitably mean the valves hitting the domed piston.
Two spark plugs were used, -one in the original hole, and the other in place of the de compressor assly. ALL my engines topped 100MPH.

Wish I could do something like that with my Bullet.

During college, I ran my bullet to the bone and really enjoyed it.

More recently I got it completely overhauled in Delhi. It was at a reputable 'bullet-expert' workshop, but the end-result is severely under-whelming.

Pick-up and top-speed is not like it was (before the re-build). The engine is clattering (the mechanics can't figure out what the problem is). Clutch seems to be slipping (again the mechanic can't sort it out).

The mechanic insisted I use Castrol GTD for diesel engines in the engine .

What can I do to whip my bike back into shape? Do I have to go in for another expensive re-build? If I do have to over-haul, can someone recommend a competent mechanic/tuner in Delhi?

@ Indiaman
for performance, where can I get a high-compression piston kit? Should I think of a 5 plate clutch (to handle the performance) instead of the existing 3 plate system?

Bulleteers, please help me get my bike running well again.

Thanks in advance and best regards
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Old 26th May 2010, 13:44   #18
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Default running in after new valves?

Of late, i was finding severe loss of compression in my bull, and I suspected the valves to be the culprit. Last week, i got the whole head and engine parts opened up and checked by the mechanic. He told me that the valves are burnt, so we replaced them, put new guides and did some lathe work (not sure what, must be the valve seat grinding???). Now my bull is back in form

My question is, should I run-in for the next 1000-2000 kms for the new valves/guides? My mechanic advices me so.
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Old 27th May 2010, 06:54   #19
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Nice discussion going on. a noob question I guess. Is there any difference in the approach to run-in a CI, AVL and UC engine? IS the run-in same for a carb engine and a EFI one?
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