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Old 27th September 2010, 10:34   #31
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Originally Posted by Sankar View Post
It sounds like clutch slip and you should rectify it before proceeding else any kind of tuning would be wasted. Btw don't alter the jetting now, instead get the clutch corrected. Hope the cable is free and there is enough play? Is your clutch basket the one with holes or the plain non hole setup? If its the non hole basket, then moving to holed basket would yield better clutch performance. The holes makes it easier for the oil to drain out thus providing a quicker and efficient bite between the plates. Change the spring and change the metal plate if they're glazed and/or warped.
Yeah the cable has enough play. I am not sure what's clutch basket? I assume it is the base where you mount the pressure and metal plates and then tighten the springs? I don't remember if the are holed or not, where do they have holes, at the bottom? If it is the primary case that you are talking about, then mine is the old type (not the one with Royal Enfield engraved)

2 months before, I changed the metal plates and the friction plates. as per my mechanic's advice, I went for the pulsar friction plates, he told they give better grip compared to the std bullet plates. IIRC There was also an option to upgrade to a 5 plate setup, but I needed to change somethings more than just the plates.

Now what do you suggest me to do? Should I retain the 4 plate setup and again change the plates or should I go for an upgraded setup?
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Old 27th September 2010, 11:59   #32
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Yeah the cable has enough play. I am not sure what's clutch basket? I assume it is the base where you There was also an option to upgrade to a 5 plate setup, but I needed to change somethings more than just the plates.

Now what do you suggest me to do? Should I retain the 4 plate setup and again change the plates or should I go for an upgraded setup?
Go for the 5 plate setup. This is what the new 500s (with RE engraved on their primary cover) came with. It will show a good improvement in the power delivery especially on inclines. By the way new UCE 500 have 7 plates clutch system, which makes the clutch light as a 150 cc, and has great power transfer to the rear wheel.
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Old 27th September 2010, 13:37   #33
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Originally Posted by jingaboysr View Post
IIRC There was also an option to upgrade to a 5 plate setup, but I needed to change somethings more than just the plates.

Now what do you suggest me to do? Should I retain the 4 plate setup and again change the plates or should I go for an upgraded setup?
The basket with holes comes only in the 5 plate setup. Change to a 5 plate setup (the new type with holes) and your slip issue would be rectified.
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Old 4th October 2010, 09:27   #34
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I have tried both 4 and 5 plate clutches and the 5, is only marginally better. It will not suffice for much more than stock power output. Using the same crappy friction material, making them thinner, and simply adding one more does not address the central problem.

The fix is to use a 4 plate clutch from Barnet in the USA. I know about the availability in India, however this is the best clutch for the job, and outperforms more expensive versions. If just too much trouble to lay your hands on one, machine the stock basket and you may be surprised.

The machining of the stock basket leaves a lot to be desired. You will need a good machine shop to remove the friction surface and turn the basket face true to the shaft, thereby taking out the stock wobble. This alone will fix most problematic clutches, and is the "miracle treatment" done by overseas performance shops.

BTW, use auto transmission fluid in the primary. The oil is formulated to work in auto clutches and works great in a RE. Ford type has a better friction coefficient, although Dextron II or III is OK. Soak those new plates overnight before you install them

Back to jetting - why do you not all get together and import what you need from Sudco in the USA. My friends here in Thailand did just that due to unavailability of parts. If not a group buy, most Bullets will suffice with all 3 jets and a needle (forgoing the slide), so what you need is small enough to go in the post.
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Old 4th October 2010, 14:04   #35
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Wrote a PM in response to my clutch fix so here it is for all. This is about as good as you can get without using a very expensive belt drive system and related racing clutch.

RE Barnet clutches are dyno proven to hold at 37 HP at the rear wheel.
4 plates and goes right in. What it does is hook up well and does not slip at this power level. Be sure to soak in oil (ATF) overnight before installing the plates. Pay attention to my comments on using ATF, not engine oil as I see the local mechanics using.

Use 3 heavier springs, with 3 stock. I got mine from Hitchocks and do not know if available in India.
Also use the bearing clutch release pad - Hitchocks once again.

I use ceramic nitride ball bearings on the clutch rods as they minimize friction and will not gall.
Acer racing in the USA and about 1.50 USD ea.
I have a 5 speed so it is a different size than the Albion box

Ceramic Ball Bearings | Ceramic Nitride Balls | Ceramic Bearings | Acer Racing

Take note of what I wrote on machining the clutch basket. If your clutch hub wobbles, and most if not all do, then release, smooth hook up, and full contact will be comprimised. If the machine shop cannot do this to .002" then find another shop. Makes me wonder why RE does not do it right in the first place.
A wobbling hub will compromise the added grip of the Barnet plates.

Barnet PN 301-28-50001-Bonded Friction Plate - Alloy

Barnett Performance Products | Products | Clutch Plates & Springs

Naturally you need a good RE original lined cable, not the local market unlined crappy ones.
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