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Old 20th November 2010, 18:23   #31
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Though complete dismantling for storage and preservation is the most effective way to go about, it is not only expensive and would involve expert to do the job but would also entail replacement of most of the bushes, gaskets and seals as the old ones cannot generally be used.

Last edited by captrajesh : 20th November 2010 at 18:24.
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Old 20th November 2010, 23:22   #32
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it is not only expensive and would involve expert to do the job
Expensive??? How? I'm under the impression that this is the cheapest.

I always tell to myself that the so called expert was novice like me once, just that he started learning much longer than I did. But I'll reach to his level someday.

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but would also entail replacement of most of the bushes, gaskets and seals as the old ones cannot generally be used.
+1; in the case of simply covering the bike, chroming & painting are added up in addition to changing gaskets & bushes.
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Old 22nd November 2010, 10:09   #33
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Fabiarider,
Please REMOVE the battery and sell it or throw it OUT(the Battery) i mean ! My 92' RX 100 had horrible acid stains on the plastic side covers when i had left it covered and in a closed room for about one year.. If you discumnnect the battery, but still leave it on the bike (like i did) the acid fumes will tend to demark the panels and the black chassis/frame, so PL THROW YOUR BATTERY OUT.....

My bike is still in 'storage' i need to take it out and get it chromed and painted....waiting for the rains (in Pune) to stop !!
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Old 22nd November 2010, 10:39   #34
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Default Work in progress

Based on inputs from BHP friends , I have started preparing my bike.

The interesting thing is that i understand my bike in a better way now and so feeling more confident about doing things on my own rather than going to mechanic for all silly reasons. I also realize that i already had with me most of the essential tools i need to work with my bike like

Player, screedriver set, spanner 12-13-14-15 + precision spanner set of 8m to 13mm.

Apart from this i bought
Black greese, 2T oil, cotton waste, small tube for draining petrol, a small paint brush

Now i think i need to buy
A spanner for removing spark plug is it called spark plug spanner ?

Now to update the things done so far
1. Serviced the bike and checked well
2. Removed the seat, petrol tank, the headlight-separated out bulbs etc, assembly at back with number plates- stop light - indicators, number plate in front, both mud flaps, mirror, horn ; not planning to remove tires-chain etc as i dont have experience + tools as well
3. All electrical points which are exposed is given a vaseline coating
4. All joints + places without paint were rust started appearing is given a good coat of black greese
5. All metal parts given a coat of oil
6. petrol tank drained
7. Rest of the bike washed well and kept for drying
8. All components wrapped in paper, marked and kept securely
9. Removed battery - its already towards end of its life

Now things to do , please clarify some points

1. Pressure clean bike to remove any remaining dust
2. Remove the spark-plug and pour some 2T oil inside the opening. Kick it over a few times to distribute the oil. replace the spark plug and cover.
Is this routine fine ? will this create some problem for starting bike later ? Also how much quantity of oil to be poured?
3. Apply oil, greese to all parts of bike
4. Park bike in centre stand, Cover the bike and store in a closed area , I have a bike cover which is Polythene based, is this fine? or do i have to use a cotton sheet ?
5. Petrol tank to be smeared with oil + few silcon packets can be hanged inside the tank to absorb moisture
6. Deflate (40%) both tires
7. Spread some oil on the front forks and bounced the front wheels to get the oil spread inside the fork.
8. Plug all openings like exhaust with cotton waste dipped in oil

Any routine operation that needs to be done once in 2 weeks or so ?
Please suggest only simple things like kicking bike or so as my father will be entrusted the responsibility .

Thanks

Last edited by fabiarider : 22nd November 2010 at 10:40.
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Old 22nd November 2010, 14:39   #35
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Sure...

If possible soak them in oil. Reason being that, if you simply apply the oil & leave it, the oil gets to the bottom of the part in course of 3-6 months & gravity. So immersing them is important.


Whoa!!! I'd love to help, but from your post it appears your totally newbie, so, either you take guts to do the job or ask any of your friends (who do not experiement by learning on your Rx) to guide you or ask them to carry over.

Anyway, you need to remove the seats first for which the nuts are located at the rear end (nr tail lamp assy) below the seat, use 13mm wrench to remove from both the sides. Once you remove the seats, you can see a single nut for holding the fuel tank, again 13mm. Ensure to close the fuel cock, disconnect the tube from the fuel tank & then remove the tank.


Not much in owners manual, but a lot in workshop manual.


Removing spark plug and pouring little bit of oil is important ?
For removing the plug what kind of spanner is needed is it a socket spanner ? If so which size ?
Please suggest
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Old 22nd November 2010, 15:08   #36
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Good @Fabiarider; welcome to the world of self service that is purely driven by passion, love & care where no mechanics working for money can understand.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fabiarider View Post
1. Pressure clean bike to remove any remaining dust
But, which parts? If its metal, then forget it, anyway you've to clean them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fabiarider View Post
2. Remove the spark-plug and pour some 2T oil inside the opening. Kick it over a few times to distribute the oil. replace the spark plug and cover.
But why? To circulate the oil? You've 2 options here...
1. Remove the cylinder, head, piston, crankshaft after removing the dynamo & clutch assy, apply good oil & seal them in good quality plastic cover to prevent air & moisture entry.
2. Do the above & still seal the entire engine assy inside a quality plastic cover to prevent air & moisture entry. If possible remove the entire engine from frame.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fabiarider View Post
Is this routine fine ? will this create some problem for starting bike later ? Also how much quantity of oil to be poured?
Well, I would open the cylinder head, simply apply a coat of 2T oil over the cylinder walls which is bound to go down anyway in few days.

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Originally Posted by fabiarider View Post
3. Apply oil, greese to all parts of bike
Either one, prefer oil not greese. But which parts?

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Originally Posted by fabiarider View Post
4. Park bike in centre stand, Cover the bike and store in a closed area , I have a bike cover which is Polythene based, is this fine? or do i have to use a cotton sheet ?
Sorry, not sure.

Quote:
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6. Deflate (40%) both tires
Ok

Quote:
Originally Posted by fabiarider View Post
7. Spread some oil on the front forks and bounced the front wheels to get the oil spread inside the fork.
Not necessary; ensure that you're front suspensions are in good condition & do not leak oil so that air can venture inside.

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Originally Posted by fabiarider View Post
8. Plug all openings like exhaust with cotton waste dipped in oil
Like?

Quote:
Originally Posted by fabiarider View Post
Any routine operation that needs to be done once in 2 weeks or so ?
Once in 3-4 months, 2T oil inside the cylinder; ensure you've new engine oil (transmission oil) inside the engine before you leave. Also, shake the Rx so that the engine oil will be evenly spread out.

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Originally Posted by fabiarider View Post
Removing spark plug and pouring little bit of oil is important ?
Seriously speaking, I feel its not necessary, but the point seems to be better. Is any cylinder made up of cast iron to get rusted? If you follow the above option 1, complete peace of mind; where there's no moisture, there's no rust.

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For removing the plug what kind of spanner is needed is it a socket spanner ? If so which size ?
There's no specific size, just ask for plug spanner from any automobile tool shop.

Since you're going abroad (assume it western country Europe/America), invest your money to buy some quality tools. See the list of partial ones I've - http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/1796695-post.html
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Old 29th November 2010, 11:24   #37
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Thanks for all the advice.
I have finally set up the bike and left it for hibernation.
Will update the status once i brings it back to life.
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Old 29th November 2010, 17:24   #38
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Expensive??? How? I'm under the impression that this is the cheapest.

I always tell to myself that the so called expert was novice like me once, just that he started learning much longer than I did. But I'll reach to his level someday.
Expensive because complete dismantling of the engine into parts, a trained mechanic would charge at least 1k.

Tins and oils etc for immersing the various parts. At least 2k. We may reduce this expense by using used oils which are available for cheap.

cost of buying gaskets and seals for putting the bike back. 1 to 2 k.

This is why I was saying it is expensive option.
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Old 29th November 2010, 17:44   #39
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Expensive because complete dismantling of the engine into parts, a trained mechanic would charge at least 1k.
Oh!!! ok; Since I do all the jobs by myself, its way too cheapest option for me as I don'tve to pay anyone. Since, I buy the spares regularly from a single shop, I also get some discounts. The conned mechanics not only charge a labour, but also take commissions on the parts & even more
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Old 1st December 2010, 19:50   #40
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How long can tyres be stored??? And how do you store them??? I'm thinking of stocking up some 3.50 19inch tyres for my bull from down south cos they are not available in Pune. Any suggestions guys???
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Old 1st December 2010, 20:02   #41
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How long can tyres be stored??? And how do you store them???
Few ideas from my little brain

Clean the tire thorougly with water & apply Son of Gun, EAGLE ONE, WET TYRE SHINE or equivalent liberally. Inside the tires, apply powder from the rubber getting sticky. Wrap it up in a good polythene or plastic sheet & stack the tire. Do not put it upright position.

In addition, pls go through this thread - http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/modifi...edge-home.html

Last edited by aargee : 1st December 2010 at 20:04.
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Old 14th January 2011, 10:12   #42
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Default Re: Keeping bike in Garage(not using) for long term

OT: Massive rusting inside bike tank. Need help

Guys, need your inputs. My bike (Pulsur 150 2002 model) has had rusting problem inside the tank for a while. When i used to use it regularly, i used to get it cleaned now and then. Now that I drive more often, bike usage has become very limited. Now on weekends when i feel like taking my bike out, the rust problem is leading to frequent carb blocking.

Can you suggest a way to get rid of this problem, other than changing the tank i.e.

I have heard of WD-40, don't know how to use the same inside the tank. Your help will be really appreciated.
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Old 25th January 2011, 18:06   #43
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Default Re: Keeping bike in Garage(not using) for long term

Quote:
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OT: Massive rusting inside bike tank. Need help

Guys, need your inputs. My bike (Pulsur 150 2002 model) has had rusting problem inside the tank for a while. When i used to use it regularly, i used to get it cleaned now and then. Now that I drive more often, bike usage has become very limited. Now on weekends when i feel like taking my bike out, the rust problem is leading to frequent carb blocking.

Can you suggest a way to get rid of this problem, other than changing the tank i.e.

I have heard of WD-40, don't know how to use the same inside the tank. Your help will be really appreciated.
The cost of arresting the rust would be more and would be much more effort than changing the tank which IMO is the most pragmatic solution.

WD40 etc won't work as you are putting petrol in the tank which would dissolve whatever anti rust things you put which would adversely affect your engine as the fuel along with the anti rust agents you are putting would eventually undergo combustion there at.
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