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Old 14th November 2010, 15:54   #16
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@Double - Sorry to say, those steps were followed before overhauling my motorcycle that was in pathetic stage & when I experienced the same problem of jerk when starting in cold!!! So after overhauling or rather rebuilding the entire crankcase this problem does not occur anymore. Here're few things that I can suggest looking/checking into...
- Check the clutch assy very thoroughy including friction & clutch plates & clutch cables, springs (if any)
- Check if the front sprocket & gearbox for any wear/tear
- Not sure if RE has a dog shifter, but, prefer checking it or equivalent

Last edited by aargee : 14th November 2010 at 15:55.
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Old 28th March 2014, 23:15   #17
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Default Classic 350 Enfield - Starting Issues

I have a Classic 350 Enfield, and being a newbie rider I'm not well versed with motorcycles. However, I've following queries:

1.Is it true that Enfields with UCE engines can't be even kick started if battery discharges/dies completely?

2. Does cold weather (< 20 C) impedes with electric start. I often have to press ES twice/thrice to start the bike although the battery is new?

3. Often, when I electric start the bike it lurches as if it's in gear even when the clutch lever is squeezed completely. Why?

Replies will be appreciated.
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Old 29th March 2014, 03:48   #18
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Default Re: Classic 350 Enfield - Starting Issues

If the battery is totally dead, a motorcycle with a carburetor might start if the kick starter is kicked fast enough and the headlight/parking lights are turned off.
Then again, it might not.
Kicking it over fast will cause the alternator to produce a little electricity and it may be enough to activate the ignition coil to produce a spark.
Having several people give the motorcycle a push while it is in 2nd or 3rd gear and then releasing the clutch to make the engine spin over is more likely to rotate the engine fast enough to produce the needed electricity.

A fuel injected motorcycle probably won't start using the same method because the fuel pump must run to build up fuel pressure and it is doubtful that a short push would be enough to do that.

All batteries produce less power when they are cold.
They rely on chemical processes to produce power and cold slows down these processes.
That said, a noticeable decline should not be seen until the temperature drops below 4.4 C.

Even new batteries can be defective. What is more likely is if the motorcycle is run at low speeds on a number of very short trips the alternator will not have time to recharge the battery. Each time the motorcycle is started a large amount of current is required and if it is not replaced the battery charge will get weaker and weaker.

Motorcycle batteries do NOT like Quick charges so taking it to someplace for a high power recharge may get the battery recharged but at the cost of destroying its life.

If the motorcycle is in neutral when it is started it should not lurch at all.
Once the engine is started it is quite common for it to lurch when you pull in the clutch and put the transmission into gear.
The reason for this is the clutch plates (there are several like layers in a sandwich) tend to stick together when the engine is not running. When the clutch lever is pulled in for the first time, two or more of the plates may stick together, transmitting some power into the transmission. When the gears engage, this power will try to drive the motorcycle forward.
As soon as this happens, the plates will loose their grip and start slipping like they are supposed to do and the motorcycle will stop moving. It will lurch while this is happening.

Something that will help to reduce this clutch sticking is to do the following:
1. With the engine not running, pull in the clutch lever.
2. Extend the kick starter lever.
3. Push the kick starter lever down. It will show resistance until the clutch plates break free and will then move down freely.

Once this is done, start the engine, pull in the clutch lever and put the transmission in gear. There may be a slight "clunk" sound as the gears engage but the motorcycle should not lurch noticeably.

Have fun riding your RE.

Last edited by ArizonaJim : 29th March 2014 at 03:50.
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Old 5th August 2014, 19:10   #19
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Default Re: Huge Jerk with Cold Start - Electra UCE

I have the same problem in my Electra UCE 5S. When i start it in the mornings (always kick) and i engage first gear; the bike jerks; the front wheel jumps in the air and the engine dies. I either have to give it 8-10 kicks for it to restart or else take preventive action so that the jerk does not happen. This i usually do, by slipping the clutch while engaging in first and giving it a bit of throttle.

However I have noticed that If i let the bike idle for 20-25 seconds, this problem does not happen. (Frustrating wait when you are in a hurry to get somewhere).
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Old 6th August 2014, 07:38   #20
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Default Re: Huge Jerk with Cold Start - Electra UCE

Everybody is speaking about keeping the bike on idle for 20-25 seconds. However, this may not be possible always.

So, would it be ok if in the mornings at around 8:00, I start the bike keep it idle for about 1 minute and then while going to office at 9:00 just kick/ES it and start moving?

In the mornings I pull the choke and use kickstart, once the engine reaches 1.5-2k rpm, I close the choke and engage first gear (it engages with a big "thud" noise) and start moving immediately. Is this method not right?
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Old 6th August 2014, 08:25   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moshel View Post
Everybody is speaking about keeping the bike on idle for 20-25 seconds. However, this may not be possible always.

So, would it be ok if in the mornings at around 8:00, I start the bike keep it idle for about 1 minute and then while going to office at 9:00 just kick/ES it and start moving?
Why don't you try the below procedure rather than thinking to idle the bike separately for 1 minute to save time later on.

1) Start the bike (using choke, if cold);

2) Let it idle, wear your helmet,

3) Close the gates and ride off.

By the time you do the above steps the bike would have got the time to idle sufficiently. Out of the total idling time that you decide to do, 30-40% of it could be on choke. I don't think the whole of idling is needed to be done with the choke ON.

----------

If the above procedure is not possible then start the bike, idle it for 20-25 seconds (helmet wearing etc) and ride off at a slow and steady pace for 3-4 kms. By then the engine will be warmed up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by moshel View Post
In the mornings I pull the choke and use kickstart, once the engine reaches 1.5-2k rpm, I close the choke and engage first gear (it engages with a big "thud" noise) and start moving immediately. Is this method not right?
Not right!

The thud noise that you encounter isn't good for the gearbox and it's linkages.

What I suggest is, shift to 1st gear only after the RPM has settled and NOT while coming down from 1.5-2K. After you close the choke the RPM will come down to idle and that is when you change from 'N' to 1st gear. Do try this and see if the shifts are smoother or no.

Anurag.

Last edited by a4anurag : 6th August 2014 at 08:28.
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Old 6th August 2014, 11:00   #22
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Default Re: Huge Jerk with Cold Start - Electra UCE

moshel
Before starting the engine, use the method I described at the end of post # 18 above to break the clutch plates loose from one another.

Once the kick starter lever moves freely with the clutch lever pulled in, release the lever and start the motorcycle. It will make a small clunk sound as the drive dogs engage the gears but the motorcycle should not lurch forward. If it does, the clutch should be adjusted.
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