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Old 5th December 2012, 09:13   #1111
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Default Re: Skoda Yeti : Review, Price & Pictures

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I am touching 21,000 kms on my Yeti now. The next service is due at 22.5 K I think. At the 15,000 Kms service they changed the oil and told me the filters were still good enough for a while.
Do the filters have anything to do with this? Or could it be just my imagination?
Hope you got the oil filter changed, at least ? Filters play a crucial role in a car's performance especially air and oil filter. A dirty air filter can seriously impair engine performance. Kindly get it checked immediately.
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Old 5th December 2012, 13:52   #1112
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Hey TomThump... why don't you let us know what's on the last bill, cos I'm sure they wouldn't change only engine oil and leave on a dirty oil filter after 15k km of driving. I'm certain they've changed your oil filter. The filters they may not have changed are the Air filter and the polen filter of the Air con.

Yes a clogged Air filter can make the engine sluggish (it's like a person trying to breathe with blocked nostrils) but that would happen of you have driven on dusty roads. You could always go to the service center with an appointment and get this checked out. I thought Service is every 15k km.

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The next service is due at 22.5 K I think. At the 15,000 Kms service they changed the oil and told me the filters were still good enough for a while.
I have a damp doubt in my mind these few days...maybe it is because I am more or less used to the response of the engine. Still and all, I have a feeling that the engine is not responding the way it used to earlier. Do the filters have anything to do with this?
The rest is well..., I am embarassed!!
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Hope you got the oil filter changed, at least ? Filters play a crucial role in a car's performance especially air and oil filter. A dirty air filter can seriously impair engine performance. Kindly get it checked immediately.
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Old 5th December 2012, 15:16   #1113
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why don't you let us know what's on the last bill, cos I'm sure they wouldn't change only engine oil and leave on a dirty oil filter after 15k km of driving. I'm certain they've changed your oil filter. The filters they may not have changed are the Air filter and the polen filter of the Air con.
You are correct, deutscheafrikar, and I was wrong. They changed the oil filter (invoice copy attached). As dkaile suggested, I shall change the air filters at the next service.
In the outdoor power tools we sell, clogged airfilters affect performances, just like a blocked nostril. I assumed there would be a performance drop due to blocked filters, but is that the only reason?
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Skoda Yeti : Review, Price & Pictures-yetielegance4x4_15k-service-bill.jpg  

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Old 5th December 2012, 15:47   #1114
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You are correct, deutscheafrikar, and I was wrong. They changed the oil filter (invoice copy attached). As dkaile suggested, I shall change the air filters at the next service.
In the outdoor power tools we sell, clogged airfilters affect performances, just like a blocked nostril. I assumed there would be a performance drop due to blocked filters, but is that the only reason?
Tomthump,
Dust = Restriction = Filter Life Time
Engines require a certain amount of air for the amount of fuel they run on, and an air filter is the only protection to prevent poor air quality which will impact engine wear and performance. As the filter prevents contaminants from going further, the level of restriction increases and this will cause reduced engine performance and higher fuel consumption since like a blocked nose, the engine will take more effort to draw in air. You can get the Air Filter cleaned at the service station to remove this dust which will cause engine wear if it is ingested into the engine. Normally I think the Air filter and pollen filter will be changed at 2nd service at 30 k Km. If the vehicle has been driven in dusty conditions and the air filter is contaminated then I suppose it should be changed at the earlier service. Not a bad idea to get it done though cos it's pretty cheap compared to having a worn or under performing engine
Cheers

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Old 5th December 2012, 16:44   #1115
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Tomthump,
Normally I think the Air filter and pollen filter will be changed at 2nd service at 30 k Km. If the vehicle has been driven in dusty conditions and the air filter is contaminated then I suppose it should be changed at the earlier service. Not a bad idea to get it done though cos it's pretty cheap compared to having a worn or under performing engine
Cheers
For the Yeti in India, an air filter change is required every 15 K Kms, Pollen filter is also good to change as the Aircon air will become smelly when on fresh air mode.
Air filter change is an absolute must as the level of dust in India is very high and will affect engine performance drastically!
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Old 5th December 2012, 17:16   #1116
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For the Yeti in India, an air filter change is required every 15 K Kms,
Air filter change is an absolute must as the level of dust in India is very high and will affect engine performance drastically!
Air Filter is an important part for all turbo charged engines.

Dust accumulated in the air filter will lead to deteriorated performance
Its cost is a mere 300 - 500 bucks.

I say change the air filter every 5K kms. D

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Old 5th December 2012, 20:15   #1117
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Air filter change is an absolute must as the level of dust in India is very high and will affect engine performance drastically!
Thanks for the good advice, I guess there are chances that my air filter has at least some bit of blockage, since I've done more than 20,000 kms in eight months.
The reason I was reluctant to consider the option was that Kerala (the places I drive regularly) does not have the amounts of dust seen in other states. Lots of green here and the rainy season just got over.
So tell me one more thing. Why would my treads look as worn as they look now?
The air pressure is the recommended level.
We do have twisty roads, and though I am not crazy fast, still I drive rather speedily, and go for gear changes rather than brakings.
A good bit of country roads, maybe 25% of my tracks.
I hear that when your vehicle moves fast, there tends to be greater tendency for the tires to grip stronger, so if that is indeed true, does my Yeti function of full time 4-wheel drive pitch in to give better traction, and increase tire wear?
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Old 5th December 2012, 20:52   #1118
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Originally Posted by deutscheafrikar
the engine will take more effort to draw in air.
Cheers
deutscheafrikar, The above is a great pointer for me. There are facts of life that you are aware of, but sometimes you need somebody to repeat it to you, just so that you have a relook and say 'Aha!'

You have given a valuable piece of information, which I can pass on to my customers. As a nicotine addict, I can easily understand that more effort is needed to draw in more air!

Last edited by tomthump : 5th December 2012 at 20:55.
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Old 6th December 2012, 12:01   #1119
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Default Re: Skoda Yeti : Review, Price & Pictures

Yeti tyres tend to wear from the inner side. what wear does your tyres show? A pic may help here. You need to rotate your tyres every say 7500 km foward to rear. Did you get your Yeti aligned at 15K service. I did a alignment check at 6900 km with a rotation and then the service center did one at 14 odd k. So now I need to do it once again or at least a rotation
I do not notice that on your bill. However I see that the bill shows they've used 4.8 ltrs of oil in your yeti. My bill has 4.5 lts of Shell Helix oil. However this is at 1159 against the 835 you have been charged.
Different brands?
Now about your gear checking rather than braking... I think brake pads come cheap at maybe about 3500 for two wheels. Maybe Behemoth will shed some light here, whether this gear checking will wear out the springs of the Dull mass flywheel. A clutch overhaul with a change of this DMF will cost you in the region of 60K to 80K.

Glad to hear the advice will help someone...
cheers
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Originally Posted by tomthump View Post
So tell me one more thing. Why would my treads look as worn as they look now?
The air pressure is the recommended level.
We do have twisty roads, and though I am not crazy fast, still I drive rather speedily, and go for gear changes rather than brakings.
A good bit of country roads, maybe 25% of my tracks.
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You have given a valuable piece of information, which I can pass on to my customers. As a nicotine addict, I can easily understand that more effort is needed to draw in more air!

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Old 6th December 2012, 13:01   #1120
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Yeti tyres tend to wear from the inner side. what wear does your tyres show?
Now about your gear checking rather than braking... I think brake pads come cheap at maybe about 3500 for two wheels. Maybe Behemoth will shed some light here, whether this gear checking will wear out the springs of the Dull mass flywheel.
The Yeti's tyres (Goodyear OEMs) should last around 30-35K Kms, but they tend to become extremely noisy after 20K Kms, which is why I also changed mine at 22k Kms. The Fronts wear faster and wear on the inner side is faster, which is normal. To ensure that all the 4 tyres wear uniformally, do get your alignment, wheel balancing and Tyre rotation done every 7.5 K kms. This will give you a tyre life of 30-35K kms (for the Goodyear OEMs , depending on your driving conditions.
One quick way to check the tread depth is with a coin (one rupee will do). Insert the coin in the treads and keep your thumb on the tread. Then measure with a ruler. A tyre normally begins with 9-10mm tread and in mid life is around 5mm. At 2mm tread depth the tyre should be changed (there are also tread wear indicators at this level, which help visually see when a tyre is end of life.
On braking, it is recommended to use engine braking to slow down from fast speeds to level of 50-60 and then gradully press the brakes (in 2-3 presses, rather than one continuous long press) this helps the brakes stay cool and prolongs their service life. Brake shoes with average driving should also be changed every 40/50K Kms depending on driving style, as they become hard/ worn out and braking effectiveness is reduced.
DMF normally is not damaged by gradual engine braking , and what can damage a DMF is jerky starts/ stalling and wrong gear shift (with sudden change of RPMs - like shifting from 4th to 1st without proper reduction in speed or vice versa - shifting from 2nd-5th)

Regards,
Behemoth

Last edited by Behemoth : 6th December 2012 at 13:02.
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Old 11th December 2012, 17:17   #1121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Behemoth
The Yeti's tyres (
DMF normally is not damaged by gradual engine braking , and what can damage a DMF is jerky starts/ stalling and wrong gear shift (with sudden change of RPMs - like shifting from 4th to 1st without proper reduction in speed or vice versa - shifting from 2nd-5th)

Regards,
Behemoth
I changed my spare tyre to a full size Bridgestone CP100A . Suffered my first puncture . The jack is not bad. I was apprehensive about jacking up such a heavy car. Too my great surprise the nuts came out of the wheel assembly! The tyre is a little difficult to fit in but makes me feel a lot safer.

The Yeti sips fuel upto 100km/hr but drinks it by the flagon at 140.
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Old 11th December 2012, 18:41   #1122
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Too my great surprise the nuts came out of the wheel assembly! The tyre is a little difficult to fit in but makes me feel a lot safer.
I did not understand this. Nuts came out without having to use a spanner?

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The Yeti sips fuel upto 100km/hr but drinks it by the flagon at 140.
Just like most of the cars I would say. BTW, what are the average FE numbers at 100kmph and 140 kmph?
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Old 11th December 2012, 21:40   #1123
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I did not understand this. Nuts came out without having to use a spanner?



Just like most of the cars I would say. BTW, what are the average FE numbers at 100kmph and 140 kmph?
The wheel wrench had to be used ! What I meant to say was that in all the other cars I have had the nuts fit onto the bolts which are part of the car proper. In the Yeti the whole bolt and the nut attached to it come out.

Actual tank to tank mileage was just under 16km/lt at 100kmph. I did not drive at 140 long enough to get a very accurate figure, suffice to say that on that journey the mileage was under 15km/lt.
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Old 11th December 2012, 23:06   #1124
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Originally Posted by deutscheafrikar
A pic may help here.
I tried to upload a few pictures the other day, but Edge is a slow connection. I shall try once more now. I'll also try and measure as suggested by Behemoth.

The pictures are of the tires at 21,165 Kms. I'd rotated at 15000, and by that time the front tires had worn more than the rear tires, so in the pix, the rear tires may look more worn ( but they were originally in the front)
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Old 12th December 2012, 16:35   #1125
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Default Re: Skoda Yeti : Review, Price & Pictures

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Originally Posted by Behemoth View Post
For the Yeti in India, an air filter change is required every 15 K Kms, Pollen filter is also good to change as the Aircon air will become smelly when on fresh air mode.
Air filter change is an absolute must as the level of dust in India is very high and will affect engine performance drastically!
Interestingly Skoda Service opted not to change the air filter of my Laura TSI during 30,000 kms- 2nd service recently. Apparently the filter was good enough to not warrant a replacement and they just cleaned it. I haven't been driving in dusty conditions. Most of my running has been in Bangalore city and good national highways. IIRC even with my old Corolla, the air filter was replaced every 30,000 kms or so. After reading your post I feel I should have insisted on the air filter to be replaced.
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