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Old 22nd January 2010, 19:45   #331
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Originally Posted by janitha View Post
Your question contains the answer. When I wanted to change the oil at 2k kms, here too they said it was not necessary but were in fact happy to do it!
And as per my QJD manual, the oil change interval is 10,000kms or 12 months whichever is earlier. (Myself changing every 5K kms)

Meanwhile ensure that they do not overfill it.
My Vista QJD Came back After First Free Service with Oil&Filter changed.I think you are correct Service Advisor did not made any fuss of that issue.But ,it is appalling to see ,that earlier they were hesitant to do this-even this small issue.

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Old 26th February 2010, 14:48   #332
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Smile Rev count

Hi All,

The i20 user manual too suggests that I rev bet 2k and 4k, but the dealer told me to drive at a speed of 40 kmph within the city... and at that speed, the rev count is just around 1.5k. My car is approaching 250KM on the odo. Previous posts and the user's manual suggest that we must vary the rev count and driving speed to enable the engine to break in. but i feel the engine strains (sound a little harsh) when driving bet 2k and 4k rpm. Is that fine or should I countinue to drive at 40 kmph while in city limits ?

Although this is not exactly the first car I am driving, this crtainly is the first new car that I am driving :-) so your advise will be very helpful.
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Old 26th February 2010, 15:16   #333
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Brat - Best Run in is achieved when you vary your revs within 4000 rpm for first 2000 kms for petrol cars and within 2700 rpm for diesel cars.
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Old 3rd March 2010, 11:18   #334
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Originally Posted by DieselFan View Post
... within 2700 rpm for diesel cars.

Thanks DieselFan, I too was looking for info on initial treatment of new cars, especially diesel. Your earlier post (#29) is helpful too.

Someone i know is getting delivery of a Swift VDI this week, but he is very new to cars let alone diesel. It might take some time to find a correct driver (who can help him learn/hone his driving) and start taking the car out.

Any words of advise/caution on keeping a diesel car idle for a few weeks time?

[Sorry if this info is already available on the forum.. i couldn't find it when i tried.]
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Old 3rd March 2010, 12:49   #335
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Originally Posted by scanD View Post
Thanks DieselFan, I too was looking for info on initial treatment of new cars, especially diesel. Your earlier post (#29) is helpful too.

Someone i know is getting delivery of a Swift VDI this week, but he is very new to cars let alone diesel. It might take some time to find a correct driver (who can help him learn/hone his driving) and start taking the car out.

Any words of advise/caution on keeping a diesel car idle for a few weeks time?

[Sorry if this info is already available on the forum.. i couldn't find it when i tried.]
@ scanD - The most important part of running in a diesel car is to follow DieselFan's suggestion on the rpm.

Beyond that ask him to follow the on off time religiously to protect the turbo.

And stay away from all kind of additives (for diesel and engine oil).

Vary the rpm within acceptable limits instead of a constant rpm (you will be able to do that without any extra effort in city driving)

HTH

Sateesh
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Old 4th March 2010, 18:13   #336
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.. Someone i know is getting delivery of a Swift VDI this week..
I accompanied when he took the delivery today. Hadn't taken a printout of PDI checklist, but managed to check some of the things from my memory of reading that thread.

In my view, the biggest learning gradient for a "Petrol Car User" to tackle on a Diesel car is the Turbo lag.

In the brief 20 odd kms that we drove today, i noticed RPM was around 2000 to 2500 even when i touched 60 kmph on flat road. (Sales person's advise was to not cross 60). So, i guess no challenges in following the RPM guidelines for run-in period.

Sales person said not to use half-clutch during initial period. I suppose that is same as "Don't ride the clutch" mentioned in DieselFan's post. Now, i found this a little challenging. Any clutch position between the unpressed and fully pressed clutch positions is considered half-clutch, right? If so, how does one drive in very slow moving (almost stagnant) traffic. Has the guideline got to do anything with running-in the clutch? or is it just a safeguard meant for people who follow speedometer figures instead of rpm meter figures for run-in ? (I suppose, if one reaches 60KMPH in half-clutch, then an unpressed clutch would cross 90 for the same engine rpm)

Stopping oneself from reaching for the A/C button in Summer would be another challenge

Thanks Sateesh.. we will take care of those points.

Can someone pls comment on my question about keeping a diesel car idle for a few weeks? Any concerns if we take the car out of shed on a fortnightly basis.
(Since the run-in guideline says we should not keep a new car in idling for more than a minute, merely starting the engine and switching it off is a no no.)
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Old 4th March 2010, 19:48   #337
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Originally Posted by DieselFan View Post
Brat - Best Run in is achieved when you vary your revs within 4000 rpm for first 2000 kms for petrol cars and within 2700 rpm for diesel cars.
I have recently bought a SX4. I currently change the gears at 2-2.5k rpm - is that too low or ok for the running in period?
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Old 5th March 2010, 09:58   #338
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I have recently bought a SX4. I currently change the gears at 2-2.5k rpm - is that too low or ok for the running in period?
It is ok if you are still to cover 1000 kms. But keep varying the RPM while driving. Never drive at constant RPM for long. After 1000 kms go upwards of 3000 rpm till 3500. Beyond 2000 kms go to 5000 rpm. After 3000 kms you can also redline the car. It is advisable once in a while to redline the car to get good Bed-in of pistons with cylinder.
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Old 5th March 2010, 17:14   #339
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Originally Posted by DieselFan View Post
It is ok if you are still to cover 1000 kms. But keep varying the RPM while driving. Never drive at constant RPM for long. After 1000 kms go upwards of 3000 rpm till 3500. Beyond 2000 kms go to 5000 rpm. After 3000 kms you can also redline the car. It is advisable once in a while to redline the car to get good Bed-in of pistons with cylinder.
Perfect!! Thats a very helpful answer. Thank you very much indeed!
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Old 18th March 2010, 13:32   #340
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@DieselFan, thanks for the reply. I have been following your advice. The odo has clocked over 1000 KM now :-)
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Old 23rd April 2010, 20:09   #341
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Originally Posted by tsk1979 View Post
Long highway trips or time spent in bumper-to-bumper traffic is bad for the run-in process. The key to the run-in is to subject the engine to a wide range of RPMs, so you will probably have to alter your driving style and make a point of driving under various conditions.
Could you explain this a bit. The people in the city have no choice but drive the car in bumper-to-bumper trafic. So, what is the negative effect on cars and how can it be avoided?

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Team-BHP recommends that you change your engine oil after the first 1,000 km. As with all new engines, you will find that some metal slivers have found their way into the oil. From this point onward you can stick to the manufacturer recommended intervals.
Why do none of the manufacturers recommend oil change interval at 1000kms?
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Old 25th April 2010, 18:09   #342
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Default <1000 kms on odo

Hi,

I have run my wagon R Lxi for approx 350 Kms on ODO and due for service in 1 week.

I tried to maintain the car within 60 Km/Hr. in the city.
But yesterday i had drive on the highway and sometimes touched 70~80 Kms for distance of 5~10 Kms.

Is it advisible to stay within 60 kms...or how.
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Old 26th April 2010, 09:18   #343
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Originally Posted by mxx View Post
Could you explain this a bit. The people in the city have no choice but drive the car in bumper-to-bumper trafic. So, what is the negative effect on cars and how can it be avoided?
Let me see if I can answer your query:

In city driving, vary the RPMs as much as possible. Most cars have a running of 1000 kms but it is 2000-2500 kms is recommended with gradual increase in engine RPMs and revving thru the gears in stages as has been already explained in this forum

Over revving is dangerous. But lugging the engine i.e. driving at a low speed in a high gear (4th/5th) that is just as bad.

Dont keep the engine idle for too long. Switch it off if possible. I have seen drivers parked by the kerb with the AC switched on for 15-30 mins. That is a no-no with a new car.

Keep an eye on the engine oil and coolant levels. Increase levels of friction in a new engine generally consumes more oil.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mxx View Post
Why do none of the manufacturers recommend oil change interval at 1000kms?
A change at 1K helps remove any metal burrs and other by products of running in.

Modern engines dont need an oil change @ 1K kms, but TBHPians recommend it. The main reason is we love our cars and want the best possible care for them. On the other hand, for the mfr it is just another vehicle that rolled off the assembly line. There's a vast diff between the 2 lines of thought.
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Old 26th April 2010, 19:15   #344
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Procedure, I fallowed for my maruthi swift. Now it has done 63,000km. city milage14km/L a/c on
Petrol engines: 1500km constant 2000rpm gear shifting to minimum a/c switched off . Once you cross 1500km, try to reach max rpm in each gear , also down shift up shift for few km. once the car has done 3000km change the engine oil and gear box oil(if its not synthetic oil). After 10,000km change engine oil, add good additive (omega engine additive, omega gear box oil).once this is done engine rev freely, frequent gear changing reduced, engine vibration also reduces. Once this bed- in is done change engine oil every 10,000km Using proper speed & gear ratio also helps .
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Old 4th May 2010, 00:28   #345
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Default The Right Run-in Method

Hi friends,
I came across the MOTOMAN Break-in method on many forums.
Did a google search and found the link.
Link Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

I want to know if anyone has tried this method for their running-in.

1. Is this method suitable for Indian Cars/Bikes?
2. Any effect on the Engine life / FE?
3. What kind of Engines can handle the motoman method?
4. Long term results in comparison to the regular running-in suggested by manufacturers?

What is the suggestion/Opinion of Auto-experts regarding Motoman Method?

Mods: Created a new thread as the search did not provide the relevant result. Kindly merge if thread exists.
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