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Post-1950 Vintage Cars & Classics from year 1950 onward.


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Old 16th May 2008, 12:57   #61 (permalink)
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yes i agree .13mm is incorrect that would be wafer thin...:-) yeah...i need to check up the manual on how far the push rod can move up and down

The problem with having the fuel filter under the tank is removing it andcleaning it. Last week i removed my fuel tank cleaned it and refixed it and as you mentioned put a fuel filter right under the fuel tank. However the fuel tank also has a j tube with a fiber washer and a filter around it inside the tank.

In addition i also learn't how to tune the engine with a strobe light that was so much fun. Cleaned the points adjusted the vaccum advance etc.
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Old 16th May 2008, 14:51   #62 (permalink)
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Under the tank -- not within the tank cavity in the body, but closer to the master cylinder (on RHD cars). Still, it's a pain. A larger capacity filter is better so you can go for a while.

I still need to pull off the tank and replace the local plastic hose that runs from the tank to the filter with the original 5mm cloth braided hose.

The filter inside the tank can be replaces as well. I'm planning to order that filter along with some replacement hose connection (from fuel inlet to tank) in case the ones on there disintegrate when I lift the tank out.

Strobe light is very useful. Does your's have a built in tach? I wish I had bought one with a built in tach. I use a separate tach/dwell guage. The dwell guage is useful on the points.

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Old 16th May 2008, 15:11   #63 (permalink)
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mine is aRHD drive car and i put the filter on the other side not on the brake master cylinder side. I did order the cloth braided pipe as well. There is a DECANT filter available on JC road where you can clean the filter and put it back.

I had borrowed the strobe it did not have a dwell guage, the closest to a dwell guage was to connect a voltmeter to the points and seeing if the voltage changed (0- short and high when open) when the cranshaft pulley (w mark ) approaches the case line at TDC.

in addition i was having problems setting my new H30/31 Solex (Brosol) Carburetor. I went back to my german Pict 28. It's working fine now.
Will try replacing the carb next weekend. :-)
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Old 16th May 2008, 22:59   #64 (permalink)
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What distributor are you running? The 009s apparently don't work well with the H30/31s. There is a mod you can do.

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Old 16th May 2008, 23:38   #65 (permalink)
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Byas,

The problem was with the fuel filter.

changed it and drove the car today.

My problems doesnt seem to reoccur.
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Old 19th May 2008, 17:27   #66 (permalink)
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Hi Byas, I have 009 distriubutor that has both Vaccum Advance and Centrifugal Advance.The Vaccum Advance is not working all that well...The Centrifugal Advance complements it.
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Old 19th May 2008, 17:30   #67 (permalink)
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do tell me the Mod i need to do for the H30/31 :-)
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Old 19th May 2008, 23:14   #68 (permalink)
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Then you probably don't have the 009 -- that's a mechanical only distributor. You may have an svda (see last link on H30/31 with SVDA vs a vacuum only disti) Does it have a number on the side? Pics?

For a 34pict3 the mod is to solder the hole in the throttle plate (and actually this was what I was thinking of when I made the comment above).

For the H30/31, some suggest increasing the drilling on the accelerator pump jet.

But, most would suggest not modifying the carb but going away from the 009s.

TheSamba.com :: View topic - Bosch 009's gotta go

TheSamba.com :: View topic - H30/31 vs. 34 PICT on 1600 single port

TheSamba.com :: View topic - Comparing stock Solex carbs to each other, and to the H30/31

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Old 20th May 2008, 12:23   #69 (permalink)
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Guys, what mod on the carb are we talking about?

Byas, What happens if you solder the holes on the throttle body, will it have any significant changes to the acceleration or the FE?
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Old 20th May 2008, 14:50   #70 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 71Convertible View Post
I still need to pull off the tank and replace the local plastic hose that runs from the tank to the filter with the original 5mm cloth braided hose.
Byas, is the hose you need (in case you dont have one at present) something like this:

I was emailed this image along with many others of various VW parts by a supplier in delhi. I can forward their email address to you if it could help you?
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Old 20th May 2008, 15:14   #71 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stanher View Post
I was emailed this image along with many others of various VW parts by a supplier in delhi. I can forward their email address to you if it could help you?
Can you forward that list to me too?
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Old 20th May 2008, 15:20   #72 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by karlosdeville View Post
Can you forward that list to me too?
I just did- check your email!
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Old 20th May 2008, 20:50   #73 (permalink)
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Byas,

Is it not wise enough to use a metal braided pipe for this purpose.

Even tough with a zero rat population around my place, my fuel lines were chewed on.

I've just gone ahead and replaced these lines with rubber hose with metal braids on it.

Let that rat fella turn up again to chew my fuel line....
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Last edited by PAVAN KADAM : 20th May 2008 at 20:51.
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Old 20th May 2008, 21:49   #74 (permalink)
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Pavan,
Pls send me list as well. Metal braided hose is probably more robust. But, there's many diff hoses in that location -- braided brake hose, braided fuel hose etc so will stick with that. Have had good luck so far with rats in this car. The Fiat is another story. Pulled out tons of rats nests from every nook and cranny.
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Old 20th May 2008, 21:59   #75 (permalink)
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What list Byas?

Ha ha.. so much for the rats.

I've yet to get my braided Brake hose.

hey have you checked my fuel pump filter that i was talking about. I've just uploaded the pics of them.
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