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Old 29th October 2007, 22:28   #61
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Originally Posted by planet_rocker View Post
wheel cylinders cost around 375/- in kolkata, the master cylinder costs around 1000/-, 2 pairs of brake shoes (2 oversized for front & 2 standard for the rear) will cost 500/-. try changing the front two cylinders first and then the rear. go step by step - thats what i did and am still doing the same.
Dear Sumantra, What worked for you will not work for him because, your car already had the Brakes India system. So all the Components are actually compatible.

However, on a 1100d the story is different. Either he has to change the complete hydraulics (which is highly recommended) or just address each component for compatibility with his car.
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Old 30th October 2007, 11:24   #62
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oh okay thanks.. well.. according to the mech, the smell etc is because of the remaining lil fluid there in the drum..
I had posted about my brake repair.. after failure, i got the front right wheel cylinder changed.. not brakes india, standard.. i'll have to wait a while before shiftin to brakes india, or find a place to source it at a cheaper rate.

@behram sir - well i'll be gettin the rest of the tools.. actually the issue is that i'll be getting my final posting in nov, will have to shift by jan end.. don't want to buy stuff i can't carry.
i had sent you another private message.

About the prices for oil change .. is the price of rs 350 for the flushing fluid appropriate? the rest seems okay..and is it needed? i searched for elf sporti, but couldn't find.. will hunt again, but if not should i use castrol GTX?
one more thing.. i'm plannin to join tbhp for a 50k drive this sunday.. what prep should i do before that, and for the trip..should i carry an extra belt etc.. and what speeds should i stick to?

Last edited by ronk : 30th October 2007 at 11:25.
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Old 30th October 2007, 11:47   #63
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Whatever you do, don't use Castrol GTX. If Elf Sporti is not at all available, go to a Bharat Petroleum pump and purchase engine oil for petrol car with minimum rating of API-SG (not SF). Some pumps stock an oil known as MAC DIAMOND which is API-SJ which is good. Costs Rs 600 for 4 ltrs. Change oil and filter together. No need to use flushing oil at all. Don't waste money there. Stick to around 60 kmph and you will be fine. Carry hoses, a belt (see if your car has a dynamo or an alternator, if it is alternator, carry an old model Matador belt, size is same). Carry some water in case the cooling system needs a refill.

START ENJOYING YOUR CAR.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar
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Old 30th October 2007, 15:26   #64
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oh okay thak you sir.. well i guess it's an alternator.. will do
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Old 30th October 2007, 20:10   #65
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Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM View Post
Whatever you do, don't use Castrol GTX. If Elf Sporti is not at all available, go to a Bharat Petroleum pump and purchase engine oil for petrol car with minimum rating of API-SG (not SF). Some pumps stock an oil known as MAC DIAMOND which is API-SJ which is good.
Castrol GTX is API-SL rated (Which is newer than SJ as well). So is there any other reason why Castrol GTX should be avoided as long as the Grades are stuck to.

50k is actually no distance at all but remember your car is new to you. Before increasing the travel distances, start of with little distances. Say 20k one way. Then continous 20k both ways. If it behaves reliably in those occasions, you can take it for longer. Otherwise being stuck in the middle of nowhere not knowing what to do is plain embarrassing, not just for yourself but for the image of your car.

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Old 31st October 2007, 09:48   #66
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Post Deleted by the Team-BHP Support : Please do NOT use SMS / Slang language in your posts. The community would much appreciate (and benefit from) your typing in full and proper english.

Thanks

Last edited by GTO : 1st November 2007 at 14:31.
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Old 31st October 2007, 12:40   #67
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oh, and for the drive would it help to use speed, or should i stick to 87 oct fuel?? new engine oil...
Please use the regular 87-octane petrol for this car. Even the new Fiat cars like Palio recommend the normal 87-octane petrol rather than the 91-octane which comes with additives not suitable for all engines.
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Old 31st October 2007, 19:56   #68
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There is no need for any premium fuel or any additives. If your car is tuned right it will go right. Rule is that if your well tuned car does not knock at a lower octane fuel, there will be NO benefit of using a higher octane one. HOWEVER, adulteration of normal fuel is a big big issue. In our area you will be surprised at the number of times the car has smelt of Kerosene after filling up. So I fill up from just a few reputed pumps only.
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Old 1st November 2007, 19:16   #69
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oh okay.. thanks..well scored an infraction, sorry.got a lot of work done on the car. finally the oil has been changed, really really black!!put mak elite API-SG 15W40 as per behram sir's advice...couldn't find elf sporti.a guy tuned the car too.. seemed quite good with fiats.. cleaned carb, altered some timing, not sure.. and cleaned plugs.. guess i'll be gettin my mechanincal work done by him.. works alone... had garage earlier... car feels awesome now.. pulling real well.. my air screw is lil bent.. he sand papered it, will replace it soon.. he also asked me to change main jet from 100 to 102.. said rsponse will be better..according to him, comprssion is not fine in two cylinders.. supposd to get tthat checked later ..pics coming up.
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Old 1st November 2007, 19:31   #70
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hey finally the pictures... check them out here
Ronty's Baby: November 2007
will create a garage here later.
13 pics
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Old 1st November 2007, 22:28   #71
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hey finally the pictures... check them out here
Ronty's Baby: November 2007
will create a garage here later.
13 pics
Hey ronk,
Nice to see your car's complete profile finally! She looks quite nice despite the various non-original fittings at present...most of the originals can be sourced out although it's take time & patience!
I have a few of the original dicky locks (push-button type), although not all of them have the keys.
Btw, are the horizontal striped trims on your C-pillars chrome plated?? I like the look they give!

Btw, sorry if I seem to be hijacking this thread but 'got a coupla queries to fiat gurus....I thought only the early delights ('65-66) had the long rear bumper as on the older 1100s......did they continue even until 1968?
Or I now presume they were changed to the shorter rear bumpers after 1970?
And didnt the meter console have a shiny trim plate as the background....as on my car:

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/indian...?do=big&p=4415

And in that case, should the rims on this car originally be like the older 1100s'?
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Old 1st November 2007, 23:48   #72
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I thought only the early delights ('65-66) had the long rear bumper as on the older 1100s......did they continue even until 1968?
Or I now presume they were changed to the shorter rear bumpers after 1970?
Our car which was registered in early 69 (2nd Feb) manufactured (as I was told) in late 68 had the short rear bumper without the side anchorage. I was told that this was a difference between other 68 cars and ours.

The bumper mount on the rear of the cars with shorter bumpers were actually strengthened. But I doubt the validity of that statement going by the number of times the heavier bumper (to come later) used to sag on even new cars.

Now another point about these lean bumpers is that, it was prone to bending everytime the car was rear-ended (not heavy enough to cause structural damage). Which is why our car's original bumpers were replaced. I can recall countless times our car has been rear ended but the heavy gauge rounder bumpers have always bore the impact without any sign of it.
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Old 2nd November 2007, 20:00   #73
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hi.. so what do you'll think about the car?
oh, and any advice regarding whether i should go ahead with what the mechanic advised?
one more thing.. after the tuning and oil change, my car seems to be gettin lil hotter.earlier it used hover between 65 to 75 .. now it keeps around 80-90.. hope thats not an issue..
lil problem today.. it started fine initially, but now it is whining a bit.. not starting.. don't think battery is down... lights etc seem to work fine(bright as before).
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Old 3rd November 2007, 10:15   #74
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problem solved - thought the capacitor wasn't charging enough - my stupid ideas.. so left it on for 5 secs before self.. and it strarted fine..seems fine now.. maybe rain..
car is good fun!! it's almost another living being!
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Old 3rd November 2007, 10:17   #75
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Ronk, put your car's pics in the gallery!
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