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Old 7th March 2010, 19:45   #511
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Did I say the head had cracked/leaking??
You Said I quote "Some Aluminum welding was done as the water passing holes were rusted and was reaching the cylinder." I unquote

This means the head was cracked. Any way since aal is well no issues.
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Old 8th March 2010, 01:14   #512
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The head wasnt cracked. It was just that the holes where water passes were worn out and enlarged which was welded. For now, everything seems okay. Arun is presently flushing the radiator water every 2 days to get any dirt out. He will be going the coolant way shortly.
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Old 9th March 2010, 15:09   #513
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I was wondering what should be kept in mind while purchasing mechanical parts from scrapyard. For instance, Arun bhai stated to check the auto cut in the combination switch. But how to check auto cut in new S1 type switch. Also there are some parts which i tend to procure from scrap in future and want inputs from experts about what should be kept in mind to avoid faulty/incomplete parts.
List includes:
1. Carburetor Solex bicsa M32
2. Steering (apart from its milling)
3. Distributor (whole set incl cap, points wires etc)
4. Alternator (for stocking purposes)
5. Old horns (jalwa make ones)
6. Steel rims Padmini
7. Real differential full

Is the ignition coil and switch still available new in the market ?
If they are then what make is good to buy. Do used coils work good or are crap.
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Old 9th March 2010, 15:21   #514
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My brains still havent understood the 'correct way(whatever is feasible in market and based on availability of parts)' of a head job. What is the correct solution for the below queries:

1) If the spark plug threading is worn out on the head (if even the adaptor is not sitting properly), whats the correct way to fix it?

2) If the triangular holes on the head where the water circulates is worn out (normal wearing out over a period of years), what is the correct way to fix it?

3) Are new heads of good quality available in market? If so, what make and what price are they.

4) Heard Senator heads are not of very good quality. Is a repaired PA head better or replacing with a new Senator better.

Replies would be highly appreciated. The answers to these queries should benefit a lot of other Fiatians also.

Last edited by funkykar : 9th March 2010 at 15:26.
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Old 11th March 2010, 13:31   #515
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Adheesh: Are you done with your exams?
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Old 11th March 2010, 19:20   #516
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The time has come to gear up my S1 and i am planning to do a complete service job on it. I need help from you guys in this regard. The work i intend to carry out is
1. Full servicing of the car along with necessary greasing.
2. Changing the air, oil filters.
3. flushing the oil and using new engine oil as its been over 3 yrs since it was
fully changed.
4. Replacing the petrol rubber pipes.
5. Changing the air filter Housing/box.
6. Some minor patching on the manifold.
7. Replacing the head gasket.
8. Insulating the car with styrofoam(thermocol)/black heat resistant sheet on the floor and firewall.

Now the confusion in my mind is about the engine oil changing work. Do i get this thing done. Will this be helpful in any way to my car. If yes then which make should i go for and what should i use for flushing the old oil. Also what make filters should i purchase along with that should i also change the brake fluid and coolant.
Is there any need to replace the fuel filter( last change was about 200KMs)
Also as you all may have seen my car's exterior do you suggest to get some kind of polish job on the outer surface of the car. As the color is fully faded is it of any use to get this job done.
Please do suggest any other work required apart from the above stated ones.
Can anybody help me regarding my post no. 513
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Old 11th March 2010, 21:48   #517
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Sagar: Based on my experience I will suggest the following:

Behram Sir's recommendations: Copied from Post No.132.
Quote:
Engine oil is 20W40 or 15W40. HP cruise is one such trade name.

Transmission oil is SAE90EP (minumum GL4) for fiat transmission, SAE80W90 or SAE 75W90 both GL5 (not GL4) for F4W56A transmission (118NE gearbox), rear axle is SAE90EP only (never put 140, it will ruin the gear pair, the oil film on the gears breaks down). Steering gear oil is SAE140.

Capacity of engine oil is 3.5 litres, but please ensure full level on the dipstick with warnm engine.

Transmission and axle oil capacity is specified as that required to overflow slightly from the filler plug. Steering gear oil capacity is 220 cc.
-- Better you change the Engine oil accordingly.
-- Purolator Oil Filter.
-- Petrol filter not needed.
-- Depending on the quality of paint get the rubbing/polish done.

Regarding post no. 513:
May be you can buy the differential. But no hurry for it i guess. Also a mechanic should be able to identify a good one only by opening the whole differential.
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Old 11th March 2010, 21:53   #518
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Arun bhai does you car run on these specification of oils. What brand do you use for your car(engine, transmission oil). Like servo, castrol,etc.
Also what product is to be used for flushing the old engine oil

Last edited by samsag12 : 11th March 2010 at 21:55.
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Old 11th March 2010, 22:09   #519
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samsag12 View Post
Arun bhai does you car run on these specification of oils. What brand do you use for your car(engine, transmission oil). Like servo, castrol,etc.
Also what product is to be used for flushing the old engine oil
Yes all we FCB guys strictly follow Behram Sir's specifications, be it Oil or Distributor settings etc..

I used Castrol GTX.

Castrol Magnatec is semi-synthetic oil and one and half times costlier.
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Old 11th March 2010, 22:28   #520
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Dear Arun - who told you to use Castrol GTX? It is the last thing that you should ever use. I have broken the crankshaft 2 times (in rallies, revving to 6500 rpm). Some fundas on oils - PLEASE BUY FROM A PETROL PUMP - why? - HP gets HP supply.BP gets BP supply - IOC gets IOC supply - SHOPS CAN GET ANY SUPPLY. There are instances where oil is "manufactured", inserted by syringes into plastic boxes and resealed from the bottom. So be careful. You can use "HP CRUISE 15W40" from HP a petrol pump who is doing maximum business. Go inside the petrol pump office, tell the guy to give you the "dabba" fromthe stock inside. He usually curses you but complies. If you see 50 "dabbas" in a big carton, you are fairly sure it is genuine stuff. Counterfeiters generally operate on small volumes (Wow, what all this Bawaji thinks to take of all his cars!)..

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar
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Old 11th March 2010, 22:34   #521
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arun1100 View Post
Yes all we FCB guys strictly follow Behram Sir's specifications, be it Oil or Distributor settings etc..

I used Castrol GTX.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM View Post
Dear Arun - who told you to use Castrol GTX? It is the last thing that you should ever use. I have broken the crankshaft 2 times (in rallies, revving to 6500 rpm). Some fundas on oils - PLEASE BUY FROM A PETROL PUMP - why? - HP gets HP supply.BP gets BP supply - IOC gets IOC supply - SHOPS CAN GET ANY SUPPLY. There are instances where oil is "manufactured", inserted by syringes into plastic boxes and resealed from the bottom. So be careful.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar
Sir,

That was your 999th POST!!

I had changed the oil three years back. Before I knew you! Now my car is resting in peace cos of resto work.

But will start running from next month. At that time I will follow your specifications.

Yes Sir, I too have heard of duplicate oil being sold.
Thanks for guiding us here.
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Old 11th March 2010, 22:41   #522
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Yes I completly agree on that, A cousin of mine works for the oil recycling company, they put any lable you want and give. Further we too have suffered crank shaft and journal bearing failure in mid life of an engine.

And then we just fill the engine oil forget about it. We never do SOS (OIL Sampling) to determine what's going wrong in the engine. Shell would also be a better alternative??

And Sagar,

Just curious why you want to change the manifold and the air filter housing. Seldom we change them??
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Old 11th March 2010, 22:46   #523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM View Post
[b][u] You can use "HP CRUISE 15W40" from HP a petrol pump who is doing maximum business.

Behram Dhabhar
Good advice!

My 62 Fiat's slightly low on compression, reasonably even on all cylinders and is burning oil with the oil light flickering when the engine is hot.
Any additives that can reduce the oil loss that is available here in India? We have a number of products in N.A. that seem to work.
Would a 15-40 grade help?

Also I was strongly encouraged to ensure that I was using coolant in my rad to reduce corrosion on the aluminum head.
First time anyone has mentioned it to me. In N.A. we only use coolent because of the cold weather, here it is not an issue at least in the southern part.

Would appreciate some advise.
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Old 11th March 2010, 22:47   #524
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Quote:
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6. Some minor patching on the manifold.
Quote:
Originally Posted by manishalive View Post

And Sagar,

Just curious why you want to change the manifold and the air filter housing. Seldom we change them??
I think Sagar meant changing the PACKING on the manifold and not the manifold itself!
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Old 11th March 2010, 23:24   #525
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If there is no leakage fromthe manifold packing, just leave it alone. First principle for Fiats - if it is working, LEAVE IT ALONE.
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