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Old 12th March 2010, 22:09   #541
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Do not touch the valve seats in any case. Mostly nothing much happens to them. Just get the valves polished.
Hi Adheesh- How were the exams ? I disagree that nothing happens to the valve seats ive seen engine with disintegrated valve seats, come with me to Mumbai Central or Ghaas Galli (where I used to take my car for tid bit repairs), at any given time you can see an engine overhaul happening. A suspension is opened in 15 minutes, realtime efficiency. Infact this problem was there even in 4035.
About getting the valves hand polished its good but get it grinded infront of your eyes. Your mechanic will know how to do it manually.
All in all its a gamble sometimes getting an overhaul, unless you have Behram supervising the operation.

Please enumerate what was done for Ravi's car will surely be of help for all of us.
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Old 12th March 2010, 23:17   #542
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Hi Adheesh- I disagree that nothing happens to the valve seats ive seen engine with disintegrated valve seats, come with me to Mumbai Central or Ghaas Galli (where I used to take my car for tid bit repairs), at any given time you can see an engine overhaul happening.
Hi Kavesh,
The large volumes of cars that are serviced at Mumbai Central are taxis. Taxis in Mumbai mainly (or fully) run on CNG. With CNG coming into the scene, the whole scenario changes. CNG being a 'dry' fuel increases the wear and tear of the engine to an exponential value to the regular. I believe (I may be wrong) that the leaded petrol (lead being an octane booster as well as lubricant) available earlier was overall better for pre-91 cars whose valve seats in particular were not designed for unleaded petrol. In 1991, the cylinder head and again the valve seats in particular were attended to for the use of unleaded petrol. Running the wrong combination of fuel and engine would surely be detrimental in any case.

Also I remember Mr. Dhabhar mentioning something about valves some time ago http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/1413915-post24.html
Regards,
Adheesh Parelkar

Last edited by Dippy : 13th March 2010 at 09:16. Reason: Editing on request
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Old 12th March 2010, 23:34   #543
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Arun, an identical problem was faced by our friend Ravi on his SuperSelect. Due to a loose sparkplug, there was total compression loss on one cylinder. The engine used to sound like a steam engine. The whole issue was solved WITHOUT opening up the head. I am sure Ravi would explain the whole series of episodes in detail.
Ha ha, I remember those scary days. The car would start with a ROAARRRR, then go put-put-put-put-put.
The first time Adheesh heard this, he said : "are you running on three cylinders ?". Soon enough, he diagnosed the problem, and advised me not to run the car this way. As the plug was loose, there were chances of it flying off literally shooting like a bullet, and making a hole in the bonnet.
"Don't drive. Period".
Of course, I ignored this for a few days, but MRX was starting to sound like a cross between a Boxer engine (apologies VW, no offence intended) and an autorickshaw.
Behram too happened to visit one day, when he got that beautiful muffler for me. He too gave similar stern warnings. I alone would be responsible for anything that happened to my car !
Then came the "FCCCI National park drive".
Cyrus called, to ensure if I was coming. I said I can't.
He said he would HANG me if I didn't.
I said ADHEESH would hang me if I did !
Caught between the devil and the deep sea, I took the plunge.
Help came in the form of Channa turning works, at Sion Koliwada. Hemant Satardekar, the wonder man, did the job in all of one hour.
He very efficiently rethreaded / inserted a sleeve, and refitted the plug in question.
And she was GROWLING again !!!

Aside: At the end of the session, Hemant asked me who my "mechanic" was. "your car hes been tuned by a true professional - the settings are spot on" That 'mechanic' was Adheesh !

And when Adheesh finally drove her, he exclaimed "Congratulations - your Maruti 800 has now become a Fiat 1100 !"

And I fully agree with Adheesh - Avoid opening the head, unless you want to go in for a huge job.

Last edited by SuperSelect : 12th March 2010 at 23:44.
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Old 13th March 2010, 06:25   #544
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Ravi, I too faced the same problem with the spark plug. It used to suddenly pop out while driving. And then the put-put-put-put sound.

Now the car is running fine. It was a good learning experience!
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Old 13th March 2010, 10:45   #545
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Originally Posted by adheesh View Post
I believe (I may be wrong) that the leaded petrol (lead being an octane booster as well as lubricant) available earlier was overall better for pre-91 cars whose valve seats in particular were not designed for unleaded petrol. In 1991, the cylinder head and again the valve seats in particular were attended to for the use of unleaded petrol. Running the wrong combination of fuel and engine would surely be detrimental in any case.
I agree with Adheesh. In 1997, fresh into the big bad world of Architectural practise, and with some money in my hands, I wanted to book my first 'new' car. While debating between Maruti or Premier, I went to the BCMA showroom, to look for a new Padmini. Though I was looking for a 137 D, I too voiced my concern about unleaded harming the valve seats of older petrol cars. The guys there gave me a similar reply, that in the new Padminis, they had attended to this problem and redesigned the valve seats..

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Old 13th March 2010, 15:46   #546
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The intake valve is 30mm diameter and the exhaust valve is 32mm diameter.
Is it not a convention to have an intake valve larger than the exhaust to reduce the pumping loss in the engine??
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Old 13th March 2010, 18:51   #547
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Is it not a convention to have an intake valve larger than the exhaust to reduce the pumping loss in the engine??
Sorry, I interchanged the sizes !! Thanks for pointing it out.

Regards,
Adheesh Parelkar
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Old 13th March 2010, 22:21   #548
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Is Column shift gearbox of S1 also of Nissan? Or only the floor gear ones?
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Old 14th March 2010, 13:09   #549
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Is Column shift gearbox of S1 also of Nissan? Or only the floor gear ones?
Both are Nissan F4W56A series transmission.
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Old 15th March 2010, 12:40   #550
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Adheesh bhai please help me regarding my post no 513. I desperately need some information on the matter stated.
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Old 15th March 2010, 13:17   #551
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I was wondering what should be kept in mind while purchasing mechanical parts from scrapyard. For instance, Arun bhai stated to check the auto cut in the combination switch. But how to check auto cut in new S1 type switch. Also there are some parts which i tend to procure from scrap in future and want inputs from experts about what should be kept in mind to avoid faulty/incomplete parts.
List includes:
1. Carburetor Solex bicsa M32
2. Steering (apart from its milling)
3. Distributor (whole set incl cap, points wires etc)
4. Alternator (for stocking purposes)
5. Old horns (jalwa make ones)
6. Steel rims Padmini
7. Real differential full

Is the ignition coil and switch still available new in the market ?
If they are then what make is good to buy. Do used coils work good or are crap.
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Adheesh bhai please help me regarding my post no 513. I desperately need some information on the matter stated.
1. Regarding carburetors, there are very very intricate things involved that may affect the working (or not working) of the whole thing. One has to actually practically experience it to understand it. Even then ideally remove the carburettor from the car which has come down for breaking down running on its own. Check that there is no leakage on the throttle body (except near the manifold flange which can be corrected by new packing. Most carburettors on cars that come from scrapping leak there). Even after ensuring all this there is only 60% possibility that the whole thing will actually work flawlessly. That is the reason I bought each and every brand new carburettor that I could lay my hands on in the last 3 years. Try doing the same.

2. For the distributor, it should be specific for your car. The centrifugal advance and vacuum advance characteristics are different for different models of distributors. For your S1, the model number (crimped on the side) should end with 90A. The distributor should rotate freely without any undue resistance or noise. The springs holding the weights should be taut and should not have any excessive play. Always use a distributor with new points, condensor, rotor, plug wires and new cap (they are available).

3. Maruti 800 and van alternators are the same for Padminis. Please dont buy one from the scrap yard. It is not worth it. If inevitable again, remove one from a car which has come for scrapping running on its own. Here a Maruti 800, etc will also do. With the engine running, simply remove the battery positive terminal cable. The car should not stall if the alternator is working . Use new carbon brushes before installing it in the car. Even the charging warning indicator light can ensure the working but the previous method is fool proof. However one never knows how long would the used alternator last.

Regards,
Adheesh Parelkar

Last edited by adheesh : 15th March 2010 at 13:20.
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Old 15th March 2010, 16:59   #552
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Thanks a lot Adheesh for solving my query. You helped me save a lot of time, energy and money. Now i will not pick up these used items unless i need them. Once again thanks a ton for the help.
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Old 16th March 2010, 11:31   #553
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Hi Adheesh! Hope you have done well in exam. My friend has a padmini 85 model. During the startup in the morning the oil pressure light remains on for about 6-7 seconds and the engine sounds rough. but in my padmini it hardly remains on for 3 secs. what could be the problem? the car has done about 60000 kms. Mileage is good around 14+ in city and 16kmpl in highway. the car drinks about 200 ml oil after 500+ kms.just for your info... got the starter etc checked a month ago.
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Old 16th March 2010, 12:10   #554
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the car drinks about 200 ml oil after 500+ kms.just for your info... got the starter etc checked a month ago.
I too need info on engine burning oil issue.

Adheesh more info please.!
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Old 16th March 2010, 12:24   #555
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Dear Adheesh - GOOD. KEEP GOING!

There are 3 distributors, 65A, 65B and 90A. 65A has maximum centrifugal advance, to be used for non-S1 cars, 65B is intermediate advance characteristics, one spring is imported from England, advance is slightly less than 65A, was made as per AVL recommendations, used for non-AVL cars, works very nicely but rare to find a good one. 90A is final AVL distributor. Part no for this distributor was PAB46590. Advance is less, so non AVL engines may starve of power.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar
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