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Old 16th March 2010, 13:31   #556
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arun you might want to check this site out Build and Tune

check out all the pics. you see a good welding guy can fix the head but to weld that well you need the experience of an engineer. in india people would think of this as a lowly profession and atleast good welders dont exist here. in the pics there are a few heads that were used on top fuel dragsters ...if you noe what i mean(nitromethane and all)

since sending your head to usa wouldnt be a good idea so get another head but keep ur present head. thats is if you are in it for the long haul.
hope fully few years down the line we will have specialised services for such problems in india as well.

i am the guy who would never sell a car he bought so i keep everything safely , including worn out parts cuz mayb decades later if i need to get a part reproduced i could use the worn part as a template.(billet carving, cnc machines et all). i guess its obvious that space isnt too much of a problem with me
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Old 16th March 2010, 13:35   #557
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arun you might want to check this site out Build and Tune
Thanks for the link! Very informative..
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Old 16th March 2010, 18:55   #558
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Default Help Help !!

I need urgent help regarding the self of my car. Today when i tried to start the car (myPPS1) it fired up but after sometime engine was dead. Again i tried but this time the key moved and nothing happened. The key is just moving and there is no other activity. What should be the problem. This is happening from the last 2 days. The car is not taking self i.e. the car is not cranking.
Is it the ignition switch or coil or any other thing at fault. BTW battery is full charged. Please any one help me regarding this.

Just called up my mech and he says Chauthe gear mein gaadi daalo, Engine hilega start ho jaygi phir neutral kar lo. I don't think this will work. Even if i do this and fail then it would be pain to park the car in parking as it is slightly up from the road(ground)

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Old 17th March 2010, 12:54   #559
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Today i got the car checked and the mechanic said it was the Solenoid switch which is at fault. Went to buy one along with some parts and consumables for my S1. Here the list goes:
1. Purolator Air filter
2. Elofic Oil filter
3. Solenoid switch
4. Major engine packing set Banco make( was wondering why is there a
discount coupon inside see last pic)
5. Bosch engine oil 3.5 ltrs (bought as per specifications stated in this thread
20w40)
6. Cyclo Motor flush additive
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The FIAT 1100/Premier Padmini Technical Information thread-image0183.jpg  

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The FIAT 1100/Premier Padmini Technical Information thread-image0185.jpg  


Last edited by samsag12 : 17th March 2010 at 12:57.
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Old 17th March 2010, 13:03   #560
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samsag12 View Post
Today i got the car checked and the mechanic said it was the Solenoid switch which is at fault. Went to buy one along with some parts and consumables for my S1. Here the list goes:
1. Purolator Air filter
2. Elofic Oil filter
3. Solenoid switch
4. Major engine packing set Banco make( was wondering why is there a
discount coupon inside see last pic)
5. Bosch engine oil 3.5 ltrs (bought as per specifications stated in this thread
20w40)
6. Cyclo Motor flush additive
I too was wondering what that discount coupon was for. May be Banko is sure that their gasket will go bust shortly and they give a discount coupon for the second one?

Sagar, what is the Cyclo Motor flush additive? What does it do?
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Old 17th March 2010, 13:07   #561
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Just googled on the additive. From various sources and people, I have heard it is not at all a good idea to use any flushing agents for old running cars. May be you should stick to Behram's principle. If something is working, leave it alone.
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Old 17th March 2010, 13:10   #562
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Originally Posted by samsag12 View Post
The car is not taking self i.e. the car is not cranking. Is it the ignition switch or coil or any other thing at fault.
It could be a fault with the ignition switch or with the solenoid. Anyways to check this, park the car in neutral. Take a long piece of wire (simular to the one that you would use to connect a horn or lamp). Connect one end to the battery +ve. Try to intermittently touch the starter relay where the thin wire from the ignition switch is connected. If the self motor runs instantly, then that is a faulty switch.
If you have a multimeter, things are far simpler. Check if you receive 12V at the solenoid triggering terminal while you turn the key to cranking position. Hope this helps. Can explain you better if you could post a picture of the relay.
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Old 17th March 2010, 13:39   #563
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It could be a fault with the ignition switch or with the solenoid. Anyways to check this, park the car in neutral. Take a long piece of wire (simular to the one that you would use to connect a horn or lamp). Connect one end to the battery +ve. Try to intermittently touch the starter relay where the thin wire from the ignition switch is connected. If the self motor runs instantly, then that is a faulty switch.
If you have a multimeter, things are far simpler. Check if you receive 12V at the solenoid triggering terminal while you turn the key to cranking position. Hope this helps. Can explain you better if you could post a picture of the relay.
thanks ilango for the help. Yes it is the solenoid switch at fault. I had got that
checked and mechanic told that it is the culprit.
Karthik bhai how can we then flush out the old oil. Its become grainy and have to be changed. Should i take the old oil out and pour the new one straight away. Will the flush agent have adverse effect on the car.
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Old 17th March 2010, 13:42   #564
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t Should i take the old oil out and pour the new one straight away. Will the flush agent have adverse effect on the car.
If you can afford, change the engine oil 3 or 4 times in the next few months... I am sure engine will be cleaned to a certain extent.

On a serious note, will this work?
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Old 17th March 2010, 13:50   #565
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Karthik bhai how can we then flush out the old oil. Its become grainy and have to be changed. Should i take the old oil out and pour the new one straight away. Will the flush agent have adverse effect on the car.

Any flushing agent, when it does the job removes all dirt and sludge. For old cars, sometimes at some places this sludge can act as sort of a oil seal at some places. Flushing will clear it all and new issues can crop up. Chances of screwing things are higher.

Is the sludge and dirt really hurting the car in anyways now? May be Arun's idea of 2-3 frequent change of oils and filter can help to an extent.

When asked once, my mechanic told we could put in some fresh oil mixed with some diesel and idle the car for 10 minutes and clear it out. I did not and will not dare to try it
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Old 17th March 2010, 13:56   #566
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Mixing Diesel and let the engine run for 10 min. Was he up for a big bang. What a car it had been if it drank petrol for starting and diesel for running.
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Old 17th March 2010, 13:59   #567
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Mixing Diesel and let the engine run for 10 min. Was he up for a big bang. What a car it had been if it drank petrol for starting and diesel for running.
His take was the diesel cleans up the sludge and dirt. I was not too convinced, so never bothered to try. Lets see what the Fiat guru's suggest on whats the best/correct way (if any) to clean up to a certain extent.
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Old 17th March 2010, 14:13   #568
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Sagar, by the way, I hope you did not misunderstood my post. What my mechanic meant was - drain the old oil, retain the old oil filter, mix diesel with some new engine oil and pour and then idle the car for 5-10 mins.
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Old 17th March 2010, 14:18   #569
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These are different ways and techniques of different mechanics. So whatever you do to your car do thing in such a way that the car doesn't gets harmed because there are lesser correct ways of doing things.
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Old 17th March 2010, 14:30   #570
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if you change your oil regularly then there shouldnt be much to clean in your engine, as i have discovered in my 8 year old bajaj pulsar(i decided to open up the engine myself). engine flush makes more sense for diesels i have been told. My bike wasnt ridden in a sedate manner as you can imagine the case would be with a twenty year old. the places where carbon does buildup is the combustion chamber the exhaust manifold and the valves(not on the cylinder walls since they are scraped by the piston but on everything else) since these parts are not really coming in contact with the oil you cant do much even with the use of engine flush.

engine flush is used if you buy a car wich wasnt really taken care of very well by its previous owner or if you yourself have been careless and now have had a change of heart and have decided to take care of your car. But since we all are on team bhp , i assume we all love our cars and take good care of them.

detergent is a major component of engine oil and its molecules breakdown over time due to heat exposure and all. it is all the additives that breakdown and the carbon that is trapped in the engine oil because of which the oil needs to be changed. the oil itself doesnt take much damage(if it were so easy to destroy polymer molecules , disposal wouldnt have been such a problem) so as long as you use oil of the highest api rating available(and oem oils are usually the redundant variety, atleast in cas of maruti, others i dont know) you engine should have pretty much NO carbon to clean

Last edited by mycarhasablower : 17th March 2010 at 14:34.
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