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Old 25th May 2010, 10:10   #706
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In my grey Padmini which I recently bought, the oil pressure light blinks when the car is in idling or running at very very low rpm. What does this indicate?

Adheesh help please!
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Old 25th May 2010, 10:55   #707
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It seems you didn't read the service manual. IT clearly states that when the engine RPM is less than 750 the generator blinks the light as this voltage is less than min voltage of generator or when the car is at 20KMPH in fourth gear this is normal to happen. What happened sirji seems you didn't read this section or were just confirming.

Last edited by samsag12 : 25th May 2010 at 11:07.
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Old 25th May 2010, 11:44   #708
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Dear Samsag12 - Arun is mentioning oil pressure light, you are advising him about generator light. Please do not get confused.

Dear Arun - simple. Do as follows - 1. Check the oil level in the engine, if not OK, fill it to full level, drive and observe the performance. 2. Replace the oil pressure switch. Use OE Maruti 800 carburettor suitable car's switch as oil pressure band is same. Do not use aftermarket switch. Drive and observe the performance. 3. If not OK after changing the oil pressure switch, then replace engine oil and filter. Use 15W40 oil. Drive and observe the performance. 4. If not OK after changing the engine oil, then reset the oil pressure relief valve situated above the oil pressure switch in cars having bypass oil filter (filter on top) and inside the sump in cars having full flow oil filter (filter on LH lower side). Drive and observe the performance. 5. If not OK after resetting the oil pressure relief valve, then replace the oil pump assembly. Drive and observe the performance. 6. If not OK after replacing the oil pump, the engine needs overhaul as bearing clearances would have increased. Do you hear any abnormal grinding type noise from the sump when you increase engine rpm? Do let me know.

I know of many users who have "solved" the problem by removing the oil pressure warning light bulb!. Don't do it, its not worth it.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar
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Old 25th May 2010, 12:43   #709
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM View Post
Dear Samsag12 - Arun is mentioning oil pressure light, you are advising him about generator light. Please do not get confused.

Dear Arun - simple. Do as follows - 1. Check the oil level in the engine, if not OK, fill it to full level, drive and observe the performance. 2. Replace the oil pressure switch. Use OE Maruti 800 carburettor suitable car's switch as oil pressure band is same. Do not use aftermarket switch. Drive and observe the performance. 3. If not OK after changing the oil pressure switch, then replace engine oil and filter. Use 15W40 oil. Drive and observe the performance. 4. If not OK after changing the engine oil, then reset the oil pressure relief valve situated above the oil pressure switch in cars having bypass oil filter (filter on top) and inside the sump in cars having full flow oil filter (filter on LH lower side). Drive and observe the performance. 5. If not OK after resetting the oil pressure relief valve, then replace the oil pump assembly. Drive and observe the performance. 6. If not OK after replacing the oil pump, the engine needs overhaul as bearing clearances would have increased. Do you hear any abnormal grinding type noise from the sump when you increase engine rpm? Do let me know.

I know of many users who have "solved" the problem by removing the oil pressure warning light bulb!. Don't do it, its not worth it.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar
Dear Behram Sir, this is the exact problem faced by a friend of mine. his car is 1986 PP deluxe BE. On cold starting the car the oil pressure light keeps blinking for 6-8 seconds then it goes off. Oil pressure switch is ok. He has been using 15-40 oil. There is kind of fine high pitch clicking sound not grinding as you have mentioned during high rpm. What does it mean??

regards,
Saurav
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Old 26th May 2010, 08:34   #710
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucas_2007 View Post
Dear Behram Sir, this is the exact problem faced by a friend of mine. his car is 1986 PP deluxe BE. On cold starting the car the oil pressure light keeps blinking for 6-8 seconds then it goes off. Oil pressure switch is ok. He has been using 15-40 oil. There is kind of fine high pitch clicking sound not grinding as you have mentioned during high rpm. What does it mean??

regards,
Saurav
My car too has the same problem, but now only know thats a problem, now I will try to correct it.
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Old 26th May 2010, 17:49   #711
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Dear Behram Sir,

Thank you for such a wonderful and detailed info. Infact I ran into similar issue with bigger engine and came out that relief valve being the issue.

However the glowing of Oil light at idle is a common phenomenon I have seen with many PP's. And with your advice almost all of those are not running perfect.
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Old 30th May 2010, 07:38   #712
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My padmini 137D's oil pressure tube(which goes into the head) ruptured near the radiator. It blew oil all over the engine compartment and thanks to the oil pressure light, engine was saved.

This FNM engine is overheating, i mean temperature goes to the half mark and above. Local mechanic advised to change water pump and remove the thermostat valve. After changing the pump and replacing the valve with a new one, temperature still soars, and then mechanic did away with the thermostat valve. Now the engine is running cooler- just quarter mark level in the meter.

Is this right?
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Old 1st June 2010, 16:36   #713
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Hi,
I am newbie for this section and not having in depth of technical knowledge.
Just a brief introduction, I am proud owner of 97 S1 FIAT (petrol), since 3 years I am using my car and satisfied with her performance of 15kmpl in city and 18kmpl on highway.
From past few months I am facing some issues with my car, and Starting trouble is major one. It refuses to take start and only make 'cut cut' sound now a days.
I have serviced stock starter – changed brushes which was worn-out, checked coil and replaced all the necessary wirings which was also worn-out.
Battery is locally fitted and working fine for a year, it is regularly maintained and serviced.
It has a mechanical fuel pump which was running under performance results in jerking in running conditions and also poor fuel supply while starting, so recently added up electric fuel pump (costing approx. 700Rs), and disconnected stock pump.
I don’t see any other reason why it give problem while starting, tried every possible way to fix it by myself.
To overcome this problem, I want to fit a genuine LUCAS Ignition coil as performance upgrade, will it give more power or it will act as add-on for alternator?
Please advice me to tackle starting trouble of my car, because every time I wish to take her out, I am disappointed with this issue.
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Old 1st June 2010, 18:42   #714
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Originally Posted by S1FIAT View Post
Hi,
I am newbie for this ............................. trouble of my car, because every time I wish to take her out, I am disappointed with this issue.

I really hope you have checked every inch of the wiring for loose connections. My 800's negative terminal that comes from the battery was properly connected to the starter motor but my car was overheating my horn didnt work properly and host of other issues. nothing solved the overheating issue. A full tune up was done and there was no water in the engine oil so i knew it wasnt the head gasket. One day i noticed that a wire from the negative terminal of the battery going toward a bolt in the body had split. At that moment my cooling fan was running and since the car was overheating....it never stopped running while the engine was on. so i held the split ends of the wire together and voila the speed of the fan increase. I held it that way for about 8 secs and the fan went off . i soldered the wire and taped it up and ever since no overheating. the horn and pretty much everything started working normaly again.

bottomline:
1) check your wiring harness for ruptures or loose joints.

2)(this is the more likely culprit)also check you starting relay(if thats what you call it) the thing that goes tak tak. replace that and see. The ignition coil really has little to do with the self starter circuit. so changing the coil wont help.
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Old 1st June 2010, 19:04   #715
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@ramzsys: The ppl at the company are qualified engineers, your mechanic is NOT!! A crazy amount of money goes into designing a car and everything is where it is for a reason. So about your question that, is removing the thermostat valve the right thing? the answer is NO! That thing was there for a purpose, and removing it maybe a temporary fix cuz an over heating engine is pretty much an emergency situation but your mechanic is just suppressing the symptom and not really solving the problem. The car is supposed to stay cool with the valve in place so, you need a better mechanic. i am no diesel expert , heck i am a newbie with diesels but even i can tell ou the problem doesnt seem to be the cooling system.

that said start with a proper tuneup, including the tappet gaps and pump setting. Check the head gasket by looking for white foamyness in oil. Since yours is a diesel there is no real electrical system so there are few possible causes for the heating the headgasket being the mostlikely becase of the burst tube incident.

If this doesnt work then pm behram sir to bring your malady to his attention. youll surely get an answer then.

ps: removing the thermostat valve cause the engine to run at a lower temperature than the optimal operating temperatur, reducing performance fuel economy and particularly the engine life
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Old 1st June 2010, 21:57   #716
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S1FIAT View Post
Hi,
I am newbie for this section and not having in depth of technical knowledge.
Just a brief introduction, I am proud owner of 97 S1 FIAT (petrol), since 3 years I am using my car and satisfied with her performance of 15kmpl in city and 18kmpl on highway.
From past few months I am facing some issues with my car, and Starting trouble is major one. It refuses to take start and only make 'cut cut' sound now a days.
I have serviced stock starter – changed brushes which was worn-out, checked coil and replaced all the necessary wirings which was also worn-out.
Battery is locally fitted and working fine for a year, it is regularly maintained and serviced.
It has a mechanical fuel pump which was running under performance results in jerking in running conditions and also poor fuel supply while starting, so recently added up electric fuel pump (costing approx. 700Rs), and disconnected stock pump.
I don’t see any other reason why it give problem while starting, tried every possible way to fix it by myself.
To overcome this problem, I want to fit a genuine LUCAS Ignition coil as performance upgrade, will it give more power or it will act as add-on for alternator?
Please advice me to tackle starting trouble of my car, because every time I wish to take her out, I am disappointed with this issue.
Did you got the Solenoid switch checked. It must be the culprit for that noise. Also the Lucas Ignition coil no. is PA12.
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Old 2nd June 2010, 08:24   #717
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Originally Posted by samsag12 View Post
Did you got the Solenoid switch checked. It must be the culprit for that noise. Also the Lucas Ignition coil no. is PA12.

Yeah the solenid switch, the starting relay , the thing that goes tuk-tuk. same thing
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Old 2nd June 2010, 11:03   #718
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@S1Fiat, I faced the same problem few weeks back. Changed the solenoid and there is no problem now. Hope it will help. Cheers!
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Old 2nd June 2010, 12:08   #719
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There are three ways to check the health of the engine

1. Vacuum Gauge (to check up the proper tune up of the car, condition of engine accessories)

2. Compression test (to check condition of engine and the core components)

3. Cylinder Leakage test (by compressed air), also hydro test in case of some companies.

I will tell today about compression test (as I will perform the same in my engine).
This is done with the help of a compression gauge. This test measures the ability of the cylinder to hold compression. The procedure is as follows.

1. Make sure the vehicle battery is fully charged.

2. Warm the engine until the operating temperature is reached.

3. Make sure that the valve timing and valve lash adjustments are within specification.

4. Stop the engine; carefully remove all the spark plug wires. Loosen the plugs by one-turn, crank the engine, this will cause the loose dirt to fly off rather than falling inside the chamber.

5. Now remove all the spark plugs (make sure to number them – to aid in further analysis)

6. Locate the throttle butterfly on the carburetor, secure it wide open for testing

7. Disable the Ignition system by disconnecting the negative from the Ignition coil to the Distributor.

8. Connect the compression gauge to the number one cylinder (all plugs should be removed for the test)

9. Crank the engine for at least 5 compression strokes (should be same for all cylinders)

10. Record the reading of the gauge in a tabular column.

11. Repeat the reading for the other cylinders also the same way.

12. Install the Spark plugs, reconnect all the cables, bring back the throttle to home position.

Intercepting the results

1. Compression is considered normal if the value is within specification of the manufacturer and importantly the lowest reading is not below 75% of the highest reading.

2. On a normal cylinder, compression should increase quickly and uniformly during each compression stroke of the engine until a top (or peak) reading is reached.

3. If compression is low on the first stroke, builds up on following strokes, but does not reach normal value, the piston rings may be worn or leaking.

4. If compression is low on the first stroke and does not increase on following strokes, leaking valves may be at fault.

5. If the compression value is higher than the manufacturer's specifications, carbon build-up may be present in the cylinder or on the piston.

6. If compression readings on two adjacent cylinders are 20 pounds (or more) lower than the other cylinders, the cylinder head gasket may be defective.

7. Recheck cylinders with low compression readings by injecting approximately one tablespoon of medium grade oil into each cylinder (through the spark plug hole) and retesting. If compression readings increase, worn, broken, or poorly seated piston rings are indicated. If compression readings remain the same, leaking or damaged valves may be at fault.

Source: 1. College Notes. 2. Automotive Mechanics : Crouse & Anglin 3. Compresssion testor Data Sheet.

Hope this information is of use to all.
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Old 2nd June 2010, 17:50   #720
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If solenoid switch is a problem then its available (the external type) for Rs. 210 and the make is Autolek. This is just for reference purpose.
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