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Old 4th June 2010, 15:15   #421
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Originally Posted by insaneinsaan View Post
Also finally found an API original gear mutta.. These have a widely spaced 1 2 3 4 marking like the original. Aftermarkets usually show 4 when you're only on 3rd gear because it's so close together.
There is a Nylon / plastic / Brass rotor onto which the gear cables are fixed. The other ends get fastened by the trunnions on the engine side. The linkages & levers in the engine side are of the same lengths for Vijai/Li150/Lamby/Pushpak...
By design the Brass rotors has a smaller radius because of which the "Mutta" has to be rotated more per gear shift, which naturally needs a mutta with widely spaced numbering. On the other hand, the newer ones with Nylon rotor (larger radius around which the gear cables traverse) will naturally have closely spaced numbering.
The font size of the numbers are ofcourse different for the Li & Lamby.

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Originally Posted by insaneinsaan View Post
Ok I have an important question. Obviously the vijai engines are better than the lambretta S2 engines right? So my question is, what aspect of the engines changes its performance?
1. The cut in the piston skirt allows more time for the mixture to rush into the crankcase.
2. Li & its descendents - 19mm carburettor with a jet size < 80. Vijai - 22mm carb with > 90 mm.
3. The very recent Vijais I think they had a lighter flywheel too.
4. The difference in the exhaust system, might have contributed a little.
5. Gear ratios are different

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Originally Posted by insaneinsaan View Post
- My engine casing is marked with the original Li150 serial number. Can this same casing fit on a Vijai engine? I'd basically love to have a vijai's performance but without having to get into messes with the RTO and papers.-Alternatively if I have to change the entire engine including the casing, carb, silencer, magneto/stator and cylinder, are there any other parts I'd have to change to get the performance of a vijai?
Most people here love to have things in the stock form. But it is solely your personal discretion on how you want your scooter to be. To your question, yes you can have the case alone with all the Vijai parts inside. We have tried it also. As you scroll back and see the pictures of our mini-rally, the white & Yellow Li150 has the Vijai crankshaft & flywheel. Due to the carelessness of the Lathe guy who was supposed to recondition the crankshaft had misplaced it. Finally we landed on to Vijai crankshaft & flywheel. Can elaborate more if you are serious about this conversion. The alternator is also rewound to higher wattage & rewired giving the compatibility for having a battery.
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Old 6th June 2010, 01:50   #422
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Default vijai with Li body

Can elaborate more if you are serious about this conversion. The alternator is also rewound to higher wattage & rewired giving the compatibility for having a battery.[/quote]

This is very interesting ilango.. I have definitely been very serious, especially since I have a vijai running well without papers, which I intended to cannibalize for some parts. It may be a simple enough switch. Both the scoots are complete.

But first, let me know, when you changed the parts on the yellow Li, did it run like a vijai? Did you change the gear cluster also to the vijai one?

I like the idea of HAVING the stock engine, silencer, carb and everything... but I also like to think of them as daily riders. So I'd like to get the best out of them, as long I don't have to modify the body (however I'm open to changing the silencer, flywheel, carb, crank, piston, whatever!).

The question is, them both having the same displacement, is it WORTH the effort to switch all the parts? Will the increase in performance be noticable?

And lastly, do you ever come to Mumbai!? Cos I would love to meet you and take some tips!
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Old 8th June 2010, 14:37   #423
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[FONT=Verdana]As the yellow Li-150 engine was newly build and still running in, a performance test was not performed. But I have once touched 70 in my Vijai, that too with a pillion loaded. [/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana]The Li only had the crankshaft, flywheel and stator from the Vijai. The gear cluster was the same and Sunil didn’t want to get them changed as it had the Innocenti logos stamped on them. As compared to a standard Li or Lamby I assume it should make a difference. [/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana]I personally experienced that the Micarb carburetor gives a better mileage as compared to Dellorto/Spaco. But for better acceleration you can have the Spaco. [/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana]A DIY method to rewind your Stator for DC:[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana]This is how the Li stator was rewound. I was lucky to find the spare coils that comes inside the stator plate. A set of 5 coils might cost somewhere between Rs 120/ - to Rs 300/-. Assuming the old setup is working fine, we would need only the 2 coils which power the headlamp. Carefully desolder the inter-connections in the stator plate and undo the crimp that holds the bobbin to the stator. We will have to remove only 2 thinnest coils (powering the brake lamp & tail lamp) and replace them with the new coils. Crimp back the coils. Leaving away the primary coils for the ignition (soldered to a green wire), solder the rest of the coil ends in series. Solder the inner end of coil 1 to the outer end of coil 2 and so on. Solder 2 long wires for the end coils and take them out of the stator housing along with the green wire.[/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana]To leave the rest of the system as it is too work on AC, us a 12V AC regulator of Bajaj Scooters. At the junction box, all the wires (except green) could be bunched and connected to the AC regulator. For DC system, you need to install a RR unit. For wiring details of RR units, you may refer to [COLOR=windowtext][FONT='Times New Roman']http://www.masterignition.com/New/Inner/Products.htm[/FONT][/COLOR][/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana]The Yellow Li has the ignition switch from a MAX-100 R, 12V AC regulator of Bajaj Scooter, 12V White halogen head lamp bulb, AC/DC Horn (Don’t have to remove the nose and replace the AC horn with DC one) and also the wires routed and ready for having a RR unit, battery and under-glow lamps[/FONT]

Last edited by ilangop : 8th June 2010 at 14:39.
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Old 25th June 2010, 16:57   #424
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Default 1.1K Km review

Hi Guys,
The 1.1 K km review on my Vijai Mk-I has been attached here.
Hope it is interesting. Please post your comments.
-Ilango
Attached Files
File Type: doc 1K_km_review.doc (29.5 KB, 453 views)
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Old 25th June 2010, 17:17   #425
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Interesting report.
I didn't know Spaco made cables! And that too grey ones, seems quite a bonus.
I was recommended Remson's, but within no time the clutch cable was not returning fully through the inner.
Some more problems: Brake light switch stopped working after 20 km.
Petrol tap brass screw comes out making the rod come out and turn 360 degrees. Easily fixed by replacing it with another small screw.
Silencer leakage... had to fix with the correct size clamp for the tailpipe.
I used a 6V CEV sealedbeam headlight (imported NOS) but the problem with it is the light indicator lens in top is not showing light.
Rubber beadings all flake off and crack. I have a PVC beading supplier but in Delhi. Anyone know any good dealers in Mumbai or Pune?
Ilango sent u the fuel tap, I also sent u an extra sticker set I had for vijai. Blue ones. Hope u like it.
Stanher, glad u liked the splashplate. But be careful of big speedbreakers. If it strikes then bend it back more.
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Old 10th July 2010, 15:39   #426
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I've been having some problems since my lambretta was restored. Was hoping someone could help me out with the following:
There is a lot of play in the gears., in the sense, the gear mutta is free to turn at least 20 30 degrees in each gear, before it changes to the adjacent gear. This is inspit of the fact tat it is held tight in the headset, it is welded to the control rod, and the control rod fits snugly with the pulley. I believe the play is happening on the engine side. How can I locate it and fix it?

Another problem, is that it doesn't easily go into 1st. I have to literally pull and tug with both hands everytime I'm putting it into first. Could it be a problem with the gear wire getting jammed in the outer? I feel stupid having to use both hands at every signal.

Rear brake and front brake don't really work much. I'm inclined to think it's the cables, but they were brand new and the brakes were still not great. Even if I slammed them, the wheel wouldn't stop.

I'm aware that lambrettas don't have the best brakes, but I'm comparing this to my lamby, and it's still pathetic, no matter how much I adjust the brakes.

Hope it's not too difficult to make some recommendations inspite of not being able to see the bike... I need a checklist.

I would take it to the mechanic, but he's 40 km away, and the highway isn't safe with these brakes (especially in the rain).
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Old 10th July 2010, 16:15   #427
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Guys,
Has some one got the spanner set for tightening the forks? Is that the same for a Bajaj scooter too? In case of non-availability of such a spanner, how is this done?
Shirsh,
How is the clutch setting? Does it have enough play or else tends to engage as soon as you start releasing the lever?
-Ilango
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Old 10th July 2010, 16:27   #428
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My set of pics . Restored vijay super . Sold as innocenti
Attached Thumbnails
Lambretta scooters - Restoration & Maintenance-image002.jpg  

Lambretta scooters - Restoration & Maintenance-image006.jpg  

Lambretta scooters - Restoration & Maintenance-image011.jpg  

Lambretta scooters - Restoration & Maintenance-image008.jpg  

Lambretta scooters - Restoration & Maintenance-image028.jpg  

Lambretta scooters - Restoration & Maintenance-image015.jpg  

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Old 10th July 2010, 16:29   #429
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It seems to have enough play.. in fact more than enough. I have to release it a lot for it to take effect. Another thing is the clutch is not releasing fully (this I know for a fact is because of the friction between outer and inner). This leads me to believe that perhaps, even the brake and first gear problems are because of jammed cables. What do you think?
Thanks
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Old 17th August 2010, 21:40   #430
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greatmana2000 View Post
My set of pics . Restored vijay super . Sold as innocenti
Scooter looks cool. Paint job is perfectly done. Was this all done in Chennai?
-Ilangop
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Old 24th August 2010, 21:07   #431
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I have been having spark plug problems for a few months, and am looking for some advice on what I should check for, and what could be wrong.
My Lambretta's spark plug gets dirty very soon, and needs cleaning every 100 km. or so. The colour seen on the dirty spark plug is black, no brown or white visible. I believe a deep brown colour indicates that all is well?
Initially, I thought I should stop using Mico Bosch, and switched over to NGK G-Power plugs. The performance was phenomenal for some time, but the spark plug kept getting carbon residues, and needed cleaning often.
I use Shell petrol premixed with 20 ml oil/ltr.
I am no expert, but I feel my electricals might be faulty, with not enough current to the spark plug. When the spark plug gets really dirty, I get some "pops" from the exhaust, which I believe, indicates that fuel is not getting ignited properly in the combustion chamber, and some of it is igniting in the exhaust system. Could an improper air/fuel mix also cause this problem of dirty spark plugs?
If I am mistaken anywhere, please feel free to correct me. I'm not so mechanically savvy yet, hope the gurus can advise me!
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Old 25th August 2010, 09:03   #432
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Sid,
Other than the carbon deposition, is there any starting problem while the engine is cold or when the engine is really hot enough after a couple of kilometers. In spite of adding 20 ml oil / litre of petrol is there still black smoke coming out? You said you hear pops from the echaust. Does this happen while you try to kick start or during regular running itself. What is the average you get from your scooter? The spark plug cannot be a culprit. Either the mixture is too lean or the advance is not set properly or the HT coil has got kaput. When was it the gear oil level was checked recently?
We once faced such a problem in Lambyman's scooter. Replacing the ignition coil & sparkplug solved the issue. Do reply as many questions as possible, from the above list. This could give enough clue to locate the cluprit.
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Old 25th August 2010, 09:15   #433
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Sid,

This is the classic case of rich are fuel mixture which is leading to fouling of plug. Please adjust the air fuel ratio. And if that dosent solves the problem. Then probably once in a while the spark plug is loosing its beat, thigs to check would be Ignition coil and condencer.
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Old 25th August 2010, 10:15   #434
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Thanks guys, I'll clean the spark plug, and post my observations to answer your questions. I'd like to know the best way to clean a spark plug? My mech uses the end of a brake cable, which has been frayed, so the wires are sticking out a bit like a brush, along with some spirit/thinner, and waste cloth. Was planning to use the same method to clean some 6-7 dirty plugs lying in the toolbox! Let me know....
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Old 25th August 2010, 10:30   #435
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Dude, which spark plug are u using? Could you look into the number mentioned on it and write it down here?
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